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Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the bearings in the picture Pat-Riot11 posted? I can only find 5013634AB listed as rear input shaft bearing. Not able to find the counter balance bearing, or are they both the same?
 

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Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the bearings in the picture Pat-Riot11 posted? I can only find 5013634AB listed as rear input shaft bearing. Not able to find the counter balance bearing, or are they both the same?
I believe they are the same bearing. I've had to replace ISB twice in 2yrs, and they appear to be the same bearing.
 

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I was able to use a gear puller with the fingers flipped to where they pointed outwards instead on inwards. When you remove the access panel from drivers side, you can take the outer seal off to expose the bearings, then get a grip between them to grab the lip and pull it straight off of the shaft.
I had more time in finding and driving 1hr. and 45min. to get the part and returning than actually replacing the bearing!
Hey I was wondering what gear puller you used also I know I have to remove snap ring but what about retainer ring thanks
 

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Hey I was wondering what gear puller you used also I know I have to remove snap ring but what about retainer ring thanks
Instead of a gear puller, I actually used a 3 jaw pilot bearing puller. I misspoke. I had about half of my ball bearings pulverized into a paste inside my transmission, so I had room to wedge the fingers under the outer race to remove it. I only removed the snap ring in order to pull it.
It's still not smooth as butter to remove this way, but it works.
The removal and reinstallation of the ISB with the bearing on standby took a little over an hour - maybe an hour and a half.
 

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Hey I was wondering what gear puller you used also I know I have to remove snap ring but what about retainer ring thanks
That retainer ring is a SOB to get out. You are supposed to be able to get up under it on the outer lip of the case and work it out. Even though with the lock ring out. I have no idea where you would find a puller with small enough jaws to even fit in there. I bought the smallest one I could find and it didn't work. Just like Rawkit stated, break the bearing seal and any jaw puller will work then.
 

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I was able to use a gear puller with the fingers flipped to where they pointed outwards instead on inwards. When you remove the access panel from drivers side, you can take the outer seal off to expose the bearings, then get a grip between them to grab the lip and pull it straight off of the shaft.
I had more time in finding and driving 1hr. and 45min. to get the part and returning than actually replacing the bearing!
Do you have the part #? So i can try my self
 

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I was able to use a gear puller with the fingers flipped to where they pointed outwards instead on inwards. When you remove the access panel from drivers side, you can take the outer seal off to expose the bearings, then get a grip between them to grab the lip and pull it straight off of the shaft.
I had more time in finding and driving 1hr. and 45min. to get the part and returning than actually replacing the bearing!
Was you able to just replace the input shaft bearing? I have 2015 pat with the same issue?
I was able to pull both bearing off by making my own puller from some bolts. I have grinded down the bolt head to fit inside the bearing then turned 90degres so it get stuck inside. You only have to take off the retainer spring from the shaft. Then I have popped out the bearing cover so you can see the ball bearings. I have also used a small screw driver and got under the small plate that holds the balls in place. Then I grabbed with a plier and pulled out. Both the outside and inner plate come out. Once I took them out I could move the balls out the way so I could insert the puller between the two bearing race. Both bearing supposed to come outside and NOT inside. If you push the bearings inside the transmission case you will break down some retainer from the casing.

Here is the picture of the puller I made
7F64B1D2-DBF2-411B-B3F9-CD77206FA507.jpeg
92668AA8-1A64-4FE9-82EA-E4072AC24E21.jpeg

And here is a picture after removing the ball bearing. You can see the small retainers than can break off if you push it inside.
90615

I have downloaded the transmission manual from cardiagn.com

By replacing both of the bearings the noise is gone. I only had the noise in 3rd 4th and 5th. Once the cloutch was pushed in or put in neutral the noise disappeared.
 

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I previously posted on an older thread. I previously had a 2008 Compass with 5 speed and had no problems in 193,000 miles. My current 2016 Compass recently had the input shaft bearing fail at about 75,000 miles. Similar symptoms; very noisy when driving, but quieted down when clutch was pushed in. Service drained the transmission and there were bits of bearing, so transmission was replaced under (extended) warranty. Normal warranty was expired. I drive conservatively and mostly highway miles.

Sorry to see this problem cropping up, as the 2.4l engine seems bulletproof, and manual transmissions are an endangered species.

I wonder if there was a bad batch of bearings or a change of vendor in more recent years? Would appreciate hearing more from others. After my good experience with the 2008 with same powertrain, I wasn't expecting a major failure in a 3 year old Jeep with 75,000 miles.
 

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Bigger question, why are the input bearings going on this transmission so often. My 10 Patriot with 50K, exact same symptoms as described above. Paid $1k for clutch before real problem discovered. This sounds like a part that is prematurely failing.
Bigger question, why are the input bearings going on this transmission so often. My 10 Patriot with 50K, exact same symptoms as described above. Paid $1k for clutch before real problem discovered. This sounds like a part that is prematurely failing.
I'm with you. See my post for more details of similar problem with T355. Not from hard use; mostly gentle driving and mostly highway miles. I put 193K miles on similar 08 model with no problems, while current 16 model input shaft bearing failed at 75K miles. I hate to think it but a few years back Chrysler reduced powertrain warranty from 100,000 miles to 60,000 miles, presumably from their experience : (
 

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I was able to pull both bearing off by making my own puller from some bolts. I have grinded down the bolt head to fit inside the bearing then turned 90degres so it get stuck inside. You only have to take off the retainer spring from the shaft. Then I have popped out the bearing cover so you can see the ball bearings. I have also used a small screw driver and got under the small plate that holds the balls in place. Then I grabbed with a plier and pulled out. Both the outside and inner plate come out. Once I took them out I could move the balls out the way so I could insert the puller between the two bearing race. Both bearing supposed to come outside and NOT inside. If you push the bearings inside the transmission case you will break down some retainer from the casing.

Here is the picture of the puller I made View attachment 90612 View attachment 90613
And here is a picture after removing the ball bearing. You can see the small retainers than can break off if you push it inside. View attachment 90615
I have downloaded the transmission manual from cardiagn.com

By replacing both of the bearings the noise is gone. I only had the noise in 3rd 4th and 5th. Once the cloutch was pushed in or put in neutral the noise disappeared.
Impressive work!

Did you have bits of bearing to flush out of transmission?
 

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Impressive work!

Did you have bits of bearing to flush out of transmission?
The transmission oil was clean no signs of wear. The counter shaft bearing had signs of a very fine grey metal dust and was hard to spin. Once both bearing was out, I looked inside the transmission and I did not see any metal bits. Also, I caught the noise from the transmission very early. The noise just started out and fixed it to avoid any damage.
 

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I managed to get my input shaft bearing out with a screw driver and a claw hammer! The we claw hammer help with prising it out.. I found my bearing to be very worn... it pretty much fell apart once I got it out....
My car ended up up stalling when I to put in gear or neutral after letting clutch out... any one think it would be only that bearing faulty now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Good job on making your own puller. You should sell them on this forum :) I spent $20 on one that I will probably never use again except for this repair.
 

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I was able to pull both bearing off by making my own puller from some bolts. I have grinded down the bolt head to fit inside the bearing then turned 90degres so it get stuck inside. You only have to take off the retainer spring from the shaft. Then I have popped out the bearing cover so you can see the ball bearings. I have also used a small screw driver and got under the small plate that holds the balls in place. Then I grabbed with a plier and pulled out. Both the outside and inner plate come out. Once I took them out I could move the balls out the way so I could insert the puller between the two bearing race. Both bearing supposed to come outside and NOT inside. If you push the bearings inside the transmission case you will break down some retainer from the casing.

Here is the picture of the puller I made View attachment 90612 View attachment 90613
And here is a picture after removing the ball bearing. You can see the small retainers than can break off if you push it inside. View attachment 90615
I have downloaded the transmission manual from cardiagn.com

By replacing both of the bearings the noise is gone. I only had the noise in 3rd 4th and 5th. Once the cloutch was pushed in or put in neutral the noise disappeared.

Hello i'm new here. My jeep is doing the same. as soon as i'm in 3rd it starts and going to 4th and 5th it gets worse. Opened up the side panel but i don't see any play in the shaft and bearing. Did you notice any play on your's?
I did buy the STK355 SKF kit for in case i had to open up the transmission :(, but was hoping to see some sort of play in the shaft and bearing. i haven't removed the seals on the bearings yet but will prob have to inspect them somehow. Other option is to replace both bearings and hope for the best. Thanks in advance.
Kind Regards

JM Joubert
 

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Hello i'm new here. My jeep is doing the same. as soon as i'm in 3rd it starts and going to 4th and 5th it gets worse. Opened up the side panel but i don't see any play in the shaft and bearing. Did you notice any play on your's?
I did buy the STK355 SKF kit for in case i had to open up the transmission :(, but was hoping to see some sort of play in the shaft and bearing. i haven't removed the seals on the bearings yet but will prob have to inspect them somehow. Other option is to replace both bearings and hope for the best. Thanks in advance.
Kind Regards

JM Joubert
I did not have any play in the shaft and bearings. I would definitely try to replace both of the bearings if you have already opened it.
 

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Hey everyone,
I have been searching for a month for info on the input shaft bearing in the manual transmission patriots. I have a 2011 sport 5 speed. It has 81k miles on it and started making a terrible noise when in neutral and clutch released. The noise went away when clutch was pushed in. I took it to a dealership to have it diagnosed after a few people telling me the clutch throw out bearing could be bad. The dealership diagnosed it as such and quoted over $1500 to replace the clutch, slave cylinder and labor. I had my friend do it for me for $500 bucks plus $160 for a Luk clutch kit on his recommendation. He has 24 years experience at AAMCO transmissions. After getting it replaced, it didn't fix the noise and I was back at square 1. So While it was running and making the noise my friend got under the car and listened for the noise and heard it wasn't coming from the clutch but coming from the side of the transmission. There is a cover on the side of the tranny that can be taken off to expose the input and counter shaft bearings. But take it from me, you can't get them out that way. We tried every bearing puller out there and couldn't get it moved more than a few millimeters. I am posting this so anyone else with a manual tranny has the same symptoms, get it diagnosed by someone who you trust. I added a picture of the bearing after about 3 days of trying to get it off, we pried the cover off the bearing to expose the balls and eventually grinded the outer rim to make the balls come out to have something to get the puller on. It still didn't work.

I also recommend getting the bearing online as the dealership wanted $96 and I got them for under $40 (same part #). I ended up replacing both the input and counter shaft bearing as you have to pull the counter shaft bearing off to get the input shaft bearing off, and once it was off we could feel it was not smooth spinning like it should be. It is a hell of a process and I wish it upon no one. The bearings are located behind the drivers side front tire FYI
Yeah you need a proper puller that the dealer has this is a common problem, a am guessing this is due to people over loading their vehicles. I have seen ones with high mileage be good and moderate mileage and there gone have bought two jeeps now that have had the rear case bearings go. You can pull it put it onto a bench and separate the case. But you will need a hydraulic press regardless to get the rear case bearings out if you try and pound them out you stand a very good chance of cracking the case so be careful.
 

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I did not have any play in the shaft and bearings. I would definitely try to replace both of the bearings if you have already opened it.
If you have gone through all of that work, you may as well replace the bearings for good measure but be careful it’s tricky to take apart the dealer has the proper tooling to do this you should have access to a hydraulic press otherwise you might crack the case attempting to get the bearings out.
 
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