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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, a little background. I noticed a leak at the cargo dome light last wek during that super heavy rainstorm most of the country had to endure.. The same storm that killed people in Arkansas. Anyway, I was extremely pissed that such a thing happened to a brand spanking new vehicle. Thanks to Jeeppatriot.com, I knew I wasn't alone in this problem. And after reading the countless postings about how the dealer never seems to fix it properly, I decided to see if it where possible to fix it myself. My dealer wouldn't be able to get me in for another 5 day and we had a massive rainstorm on the way that night. Had to act fast, seeing that I didn't have a garage to put her in.


Pulled the headliner down while it was still raining and saw water dripping down the window washer hose. It became very apparent to me that the problem was in fact coming from the O-ring for the washer tube. As you open and close the lift gate (as often as I do) the hose is moved back and fourth ever so slightly. Over time, the bond that seals the O-ring to the body is worked lose and water which already pools around the ring easily makes its way inside. It drips straight down and pools in the lowest part of the headliner- the dome light.

It is my THEORY that almost all rear leaks are being caused by the O-ring on the washer tube. It was at least the case with my Patriot. The dealers probably redo the seal that the factory made which can't stand up to water that pools around it. They probably do a worse job than the factory. This is why the leaks return so quickly.

My idea was to repair the seal with a super strong adhesive AND protect the seal using a cone shaped shield made from a mound of weather-proof adhesive to deflect the pooling water. This is overkill but seems to be our only hope for a permanent fix.

Before I broke out the glue, I wanted to test the theory with duct tape... a crappy fix but non-invasive. There's more detail about the duct tape experiment in another thread, but let me say that it worked. My "water shield" technique stood up to flood rains overnight. Were it not for the shield, I'd have a swimming pool in my spare tire well!


edit: some how over half of my tutorial got cut off! I'm retyped it, here you go..............


Anyway. Go to Walmart and buy a tube of Gorilla glue and a Tube of Welder (contact adhesive) You’ll also need a little piece of sand paper and Qtips to help apply the glue. To fix it, you simply sand the area around the washer tube O-ring as well as the area around the plastic plug. This step is important to ensure a good bond. Clean the area with damp cloth and let dry.

Next take the Gorilla glue and make a very thin ring around the base of the washer tube. Allow some space away from the tube because this will act as the foundation for the cone shield that we will make in the next few steps. Then take the Gorilla Glue and work it into the seams around the washer tube where it meets the body and the O-ring. Move to hose back and fourth so the glue gets down inside there. Just use a tiny bit of Gorilla Glue because it dries thick. I made a table model to better illustrate how the Gorilla Glue is to be placed. In Pic#4, the black marker is the Gorilla glue, the straw is the tube and the paper plate is the body of the Jeep. Pic#5 is how it will look in real life. Allow at least two hours for the Gorilla Glue the completely dry. The warmer the day, the faster it’ll dry. Now you’re halfway done!

Now take the Welder (contact adhesive) and make a thin coat at the seam of the plastic plug as well as the satellite antenna. This may not be necessary but will help prevent those areas from leaking one day. Back to the washer tube O-ring which is our main focus. Take the Welder adhesive and start applying it to the washer hose, starting part way up the hose and letting it run down. Apply a thin coat and let dry for 30 mins or so. It doesn’t have to be bone dry, just mostly solid. Then do the same thing over again. Let it dry. And you can see from Pic#5, it will start to resemble a cone-shaped mound of adhesive. This mound will deflect pooling water away from the O-ring. If water somehow gets past the mound (which should be impossible) then the Gorilla Glue is the last line of defense.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Another pic. This table model should give you a good idea of what it should look when it's totally done.

6.jpg
 

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Ditto!
I would also try 3M 5200 marine adhesive. It cures into a flexible and very durable rubber.
 

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This should go in the knowledge base. I have the front leak that is probably due to the sunroof drain tubes. The dealer had a specialist work on it last week so I hope it is fixed.
 

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I agree, any working fixes or mods should definitely go in the knowledge base so we can find them easy later! This site saved me alot of headaches when they explained how to remove the cross bars when the dealer said they had to remove the headliner to do it (obviously I wasn't going to go with the dealer option...)
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #7
This should go in the knowledge base.
Yeah, I thought maybe I shoulda done that, but wasn't sure if this was even worthy of the knowlege base. Technically it hasn't been proven to work yet. Gotta wait till mon for a test. Maybe- if it works, the moderator can move it to the knowledge base?
 

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Before I broke out the glue, I wanted to test the theory with duct tape... a crappy fix but non-invasive. There's more detail about the duct tape experiment in another thread, but let me say that it worked. My "water shield" technique stood up to flood rains overnight. Were it not for the shield, I'd have a swimming pool in my spare tire well!

The fix: Called the dealer to cancel my appointment. It
I have the same problem and I'm scheduled to take my vehicle in for the 4th time on Monday.

You mentioned you broke out the glue. Is this the glue around the rubber seal? If so, how did you manage to break it out? Did you remove the rubber seal? Did you just apply the adhesive around the outside of the rubber seal or did you also put some around the rubber seal, inside the hole? I'm interested in trying this fix. I think I might also try it around the plastic plug next to the washer tube as water pools around it as well.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I have the same problem and I'm scheduled to take my vehicle in for the 4th time on Monday.

You mentioned you broke out the glue. Is this the glue around the rubber seal? If so, how did you manage to break it out? Did you remove the rubber seal? Did you just apply the adhesive around the outside of the rubber seal or did you also put some around the rubber seal, inside the hole? I'm interested in trying this fix. I think I might also try it around the plastic plug next to the washer tube as water pools around it as well.
I think we had a international mistunderstanding! (You're from Canada, right?) When I said "Before I broke out the glue" I meant that "before I commited to useing glue, I wanted to first try duct tape." To break out- or to bust out, is American slang for "use."

Anyway, the Duct tape proved to me that it was my washer hose and nothing else. So then I removed the tape and glued the seal all around the O-ring. I moved the hose back and fourth to make sure my glue made it down inside. Once the seal was suffeciently glued, I then piled on a bunch of weather-proof adhesive to deflect the pooling water away. Origonal post details this much better.

I did also reinforce the seal on the plastic plug as well as the satellite anteanna. A thick coating all around the seam should do the trick and deflect the water away. Be sure to sand the area and use a superstrong waterproof adhesive.

Edit: DON'T SAND THE AREA AROUND THE SATELLITE ANTEANNA!
 

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Thanks for the clarification. We use the term "broke out" in the same way, however in this instance, I took it literally.

Another possible leak path could be the bolt holes for the rear hatch hinges. I guess they could be sealed in a similar way.
 

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Nice work! I really appreciate not only the explanation, but also those great pictures!

Thanks.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #12
WOOO HOOOOO!

Passed the drench test. Poured gallon jugs of water over the suspected area. No water made it inside. I could float my Jeep on its back if I wanted to. Ha! Not gonna try it though! The real test will be the next rainstorm. Not sure when that's gonna happen. We're supposed to get 4-8 inches of snow by tomorow.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #14
Take it through the car wash today...and get peace of mind.
Agreed. I will tomorrow or wed. Or next time temps climb above 30. I visit the ol quarter wash a few days after the snow to get rid of all that salt anyway. A water hose would be a better piece of mind test but they're all frozen this time of year!
 

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Joe - question for you. How is water even getting to the hose connection?

The reason I ask this is, you may be fixing a problem further down (as a second line of defense), and its a great fix (thank you!).

Don't get me wrong, but won't water still be entering that compartment and eventually causing mold/rust/etc?

Shouldn't there be seals that prevent water from getting into the lift-gate area when it is completely shut? I looked at the leak detection guide, and maybe I'm wrong, but there should be "Pump-able vinyl sealer" to keep water from entering as a 1st line of defense.

I haven't inspected it myself, so I may be off-base, but I'm thinking out loud after keeping up with this topic discussion.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #16
Joe - question for you. How is water even getting to the hose connection?

Shouldn't there be seals that prevent water from getting into the lift-gate area when it is completely shut?
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Nope, the O-ring is located just above the weather strip and is completly exposed to the elements, just like the hinges. Even though it's protected by the door jam, water can enter the jam and run across it, just like the wires and hinges of the side doors. Nothing shields it from the water. As a matter of fact, when you open the lift gate, water is ushered right to the ridge where the O-ring is located. I actually like this design because the ridge is set up in a way so that the lift gate can be used as a rain shelter as and water is funneled to this ridge and completly driven away from the cabin area- unless there's a leak of course.

Not very good at explaining it. You'll have to look for youself to maybe better understand.
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
.......UPDATE........

So much for a snowstorm... the weathermen are never right. Here in Dayton, Ohio, we got about an inch of snow and its been raining for nearly 3 hours. The headliner is dry. I pulled the headliner down and not so much as a drop inside the jeep. When looking at the O-ring and plastic plug, the mound of Welder (contact adhesive) is deflecting the pooling water and this "Pond on the ridge" is nowhere near the O-ring seal. This is exacly how I have planed it.

The adhesive is staying fused to the metal despite the shifting temperatures. I atribute that to the sanding. The mound will become useless if water finds its way underneith. But so far.... MY FIX WORKED! The leak is repaired.
 

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Joe - thanks for all the effort and pictures. Its great to know that one of the main sources of leak can be repaired.

You should try selling your solution to Chrysler. If they can re-design, they will prevent many unhappy Jeep customers in the future.
 

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Joe -

Thanks for all the info. I'll be taking this into my dealership on my next visit. Maybe they can do a similar fix for me.

Excellent work!!
 

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A True Straight Shooter
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Discussion Starter #20
ANOTHER UPDATE:
(To all who are still interested)

We had another massive rainstorm last night. That was the one I was waiting for- a true test. Better and cheaper than a carwash- gallons upon gallons of water flowing across the suspected area for hours.

I'm pleased to report that not a drop made it inside. This is without a doubt a proper and lasting fix. Moderator please move this post to the knoweldge base. Otherwise, I hope it helped at least someone. Looking back, this was very easy and simple to do. There is nothing to add to the instructions in the first post.
 
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