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Well, one thing us 2.0 owners can finally brag about - our spark plug changes are quicker since we don't have to wrestle with the plastic engine cover.

Now, our acceleration from the red light - definitely not quicker....
Just reading this thread and comments. Bought my 09 2.0 patriot yesterday and it looks like the engine cover is missing but your comment makes me think it isn't suppose to have one. Am I hearing you correctly?

Second question: the dealer said it was an 09 but the mfr date is 08-08, so is it an 08 or 09? How do I know for sure?
 

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Answer 1. The 2.0 engines were shipped without engine covers. One is available from the dealer if you feel the need to have one.

2. Yours will be an 09. They start making them partway through the previous year.
Type you VIN into any online VIN decoder to know for sure.
 

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Just reading this thread and comments. Bought my 09 2.0 patriot yesterday and it looks like the engine cover is missing but your comment makes me think it isn't suppose to have one. Am I hearing you correctly?

Second question: the dealer said it was an 09 but the mfr date is 08-08, so is it an 08 or 09? How do I know for sure?
I just added a 2014 to our fleet and it does not have an engine cover. I asked the dealer and was told the 2.0 doesn't have one. Also asked the question on this site and others here confirmed it.

They start making the next model year at midyear the year previous. That way there is plenty of dealer inventory when the new models are officially offered for sale usually in September. Being made in August '08, yours would be an early model year '09. They'd probably been making '09s for a couple weeks prior to yours rolling off the assembly line.
 

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Hi,
I just finished replacing (20 minutes) the plugs in my pat at 65K miles. I first changed them at 35K. I am sure when I replaced them the gap of plugs was 0.45 (the way that came in the box), but after plugs removal I checked the gaps again and they were all around 0.50 (widest one was 0.52) Is this normal? I am just curious.
BTW I set new ones at 0.44.
 

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Hi,
I just finished replacing (20 minutes) the plugs in my pat at 65K miles. I first changed them at 35K. I am sure when I replaced them the gap of plugs was 0.45 (the way that came in the box), but after plugs removal I checked the gaps again and they were all around 0.50 (widest one was 0.52) Is this normal? I am just curious.
BTW I set new ones at 0.44.
The spark that occurs will slowly remove material from the electrodes, so it's normal for the gaps to increase.
 

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The spark that occurs will slowly remove material from the electrodes, so it's normal for the gaps to increase.
I didn't look it up, but earlier in this thread I reported when I checked the gaps on my old plugs they were all over the place. Maybe not as far off as yours, but significant differences between them. Stuff gets burnt off; stuff builds up. Just the way it goes, and that's why the plugs need to be changed.
 

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A helpful hint I got from someone else on the forum, but I'll pass it on: When you replace the plugs, use the coil to hold the plug and get it started. Way easier than trying to get it started with a socket, and less risk of cross-threading.
 

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A helpful hint I got from someone else on the forum, but I'll pass it on: When you replace the plugs, use the coil to hold the plug and get it started. Way easier than trying to get it started with a socket, and less risk of cross-threading.
Nice trick!!! I wish you had posted this last week lol when I used one of magnetic grabber things to put the new plugs in. None the less this will definitely help in the future!
 

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When I torqued the spark plug and removed the wrench, the 6" extender came off the socket. The rubber gasket was gripping the spark plug more than the 6" extender was gripping the socket. I couldn't get the socket out of the tube unless I removed the new spark plug.

The solution was to remove the rubber gasket in the spark plug socket before using it to torque the new plugs. It's best to remove all the old plugs first, and then put the new ones in so you don't have to swap the rubber gasket multiple times.
 

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When I torqued the spark plug and removed the wrench, the 6" extender came off the socket. The rubber gasket was gripping the spark plug more than the 6" extender was gripping the socket. I couldn't get the socket out of the tube unless I removed the new spark plug.

The solution was to remove the rubber gasket in the spark plug socket before using it to torque the new plugs. It's best to remove all the old plugs first, and then put the new ones in so you don't have to swap the rubber gasket multiple times.
I solved the same problem by applying duct tape to the section where the extension and socket go together.
 

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I solved the same problem by applying duct tape to the section where the extension and socket go together.
Duct tape and WD40 will do almost anything except cure cancer or stop a bullet.
If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40.
 

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Next time try using a 6 inch long piece of PCV or fuel line hose that will fit snugly over the porcelin part of the plug.That's what I've been doin for the last 50 years to get em started WITHOUT cross threading the treads on the plug or in the head,especially aluminum heads.
 

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I forgot to mention that when ya put em back in,apply alittle Never seize on the threads,and if you're working with aluminum heads,use the Copper Never seize on the threads and DO NOT over torque em.And when removing plugs from an aluminum head,always ,ALWAYS allow the motor to COOL down,preferably COLD, other wise the plug may break off right at the threads and THAT'S when your problems really start.[been there and done that] And the reason that happens is because the head is aluminum and the plugs are steel ,which are dis similar metals and have different expansion rates.
 

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I used NGK Iridiums and didn't change the gap. Easy peasy, took about 20 minutes. Not sure if my plug socket is worn in or what but it came off every time


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