Jeep Patriot Forums banner

21 - 40 of 77 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,571 Posts
yeah you can find a new Patriot for 15-16 k with the 3,000 rebate offer

im at 55,000 miles , bought mine at 47 or 48. Some repair work when first got it, dealership covered it, a loose hood and got a part for it. . Replaced battery twice , oil changes.
Really! Two batteries in less than 10,000 miles! What was causing that? I think you found out why the last guy got rid of his Patriot. Hopefully you found and corrected the problem.

Yeah, Patriots are famous for hood flapping. There were some threads on here about that a couple years ago. My hood flaps a little when passing an oncoming semi on a narrow road. I've gotten used to it -- I know its not coming off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Really! Two batteries in less than 10,000 miles! What was causing that? I think you found out why the last guy got rid of his Patriot. Hopefully you found and corrected the problem.

Yeah, Patriots are famous for hood flapping. There were some threads on here about that a couple years ago. My hood flaps a little when passing an oncoming semi on a narrow road. I've gotten used to it -- I know its not coming off.
I'm not totally sure. I don't think i've left anything on that would cause it so Im clueless hindsight 20/20.

It might be that one thing that you had trouble with . If it dies again , ill have to backtrack and see what yours was. it was a hose if i remember right...it took a few tries for dealership to solve and costs over a grand. Thank you for sharing that one Ignatz, youve helped more people here than many

as far as the hood flapping I may have been wrong and insecure about the purchase but the dealership fixed it . I went to school with the owners son whos runs the place, we were actually weight lifting partners in weight lifting class in high school, and he helped me out and okayed it
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,571 Posts
If it dies again , ill have to backtrack and see what yours was. it was a hose if i remember right...it took a few tries for dealership to solve and costs over a grand.
If it helps refresh your memory, my problem was a bad spot in the wiring harness directly below the battery. Can't say that's your problem, but its a place to start looking. My obvious symptom was the battery rundown, but some of the other clues were that the interior lights went out after a few seconds even while the doors were opened. This led the service department to deduce that the ignition was staying on, not shutting down with the engine.* Other clues were dashboard warning lights that didn't function correctly (passenger seat belt). Continued rundowns will wreck even a new battery.

*To explain, normally with the ignition on, the interior lights will dim down almost immediately when the doors are closed. After a few minutes the ignition system shuts down completely and then the interior lights will stay on for 10 minutes if the doors are open. My clue was opening the trunk to rearrange some stuff and having it get dark on me -- just like if the vehicle was running with the doors closed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
If it helps refresh your memory, my problem was a bad spot in the wiring harness directly below the battery. Can't say that's your problem, but its a place to start looking. My obvious symptom was the battery rundown, but some of the other clues were that the interior lights went out after a few seconds even while the doors were opened. This led the service department to deduce that the ignition was staying on, not shutting down with the engine.* Other clues were dashboard warning lights that didn't function correctly (passenger seat belt). Continued rundowns will wreck even a new battery.

*To explain, normally with the ignition on, the interior lights will dim down almost immediately when the doors are closed. After a few minutes the ignition system shuts down completely and then the interior lights will stay on for 10 minutes if the doors are open. My clue was opening the trunk to rearrange some stuff and having it get dark on me -- just like if the vehicle was running with the doors closed.
which interior lights, on the dashboard, or the lights when the door is opened?

my interior lights stopped working when i open the door a while ago. I think its that middle light right above the back seat , on the top, and I just never replaced it as it looked complicated

as far as the only stuff im keeping my eyes open for it. Thank you my friend
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,571 Posts
which interior lights, on the dashboard, or the lights when the door is opened?

my interior lights stopped working when i open the door a while ago. I think its that middle light right above the back seat , on the top, and I just never replaced it as it looked complicated

as far as the only stuff im keeping my eyes open for it. Thank you my friend
It was the overhead lights and the warning lights that were messing up.

Normally when I open the door the overhead lights will light up and stay lit for 30sec or until I turn on the ignition then they dim out. If I open any door without starting the ignition the lights will stay on until I close the door -- like 10 or 15 minutes until they time out. What was happening to me was that I'd open a door when the ignition was off -- like loading the cargo area -- and the lights would come on for a few seconds and dim right down, as if I had turned on the ignition -- BUT I HADN'T. The break in the harness was causing a short circuit that kept the ignition from shutting down, so even with the engine off and the key removed, the ignition thought the engine was still on. That kept the computer on and gradually drained the battery over a period of a few hours, certainly dead by morning. The other problem I was having was that the seatbelt light should have stayed on if there was someone in the passenger seat that was unbuckled, but it would go out. The cruise control went on the fritz as well.

Once the problem was found I asked about just getting a kill switch for the battery. My dealer explained that a kill switch would keep the battery from draining, but that as the harness further degenerated I would be getting more dashboard problems -- warning lights and gauges, etc. She said it wouldn't be a safety issue, i.e. it wouldn't burst into flames, but that gradually all the little things would drive me crazy.

For us the question was if our Patriot was worth the repairs at 190,000 miles. We could get by with the kill switch for a while if I wasn't planning on keeping it long term. Wife & I figured we'd just bought a set of tires and this repair would be the first money we'd put into it in 7 years. So we bit the bullet to keep Ignatz on the road a while longer. Fourteen months later I've not put another dime into it other than a couple oil changes. Even passed state inspection a with flying colors few weeks ago. Well worth the $1200 repair. I hope he lasts forever!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
My 2012 is at 106,000, which I purchased new. I live in Maine and several trips to Minn and back and Florida and back. My only regret is no a/c on the 5-6 days/year when I really need it. I have the basic fwd Sport, 5 speed manual. It runs like new and still fun to drive. Repairs: Rear struts, brakes front and back, water pump small leak at 60k...replaced. I'm 73 and have owned many cars over the years...Volvos...Hondas...Chevies...Fords. The Patriot has been about the most dependable, at a bargain price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
I have a 2014 Purchased new. It now has 122,000 miles on it.

I had the trans temp issue twice, took it to the dealership and, they serviced the CVT and "updated" it's software. I also had to replace the right rear wheel hub. I drive 87 miles each way to work and take the patriot fishing alot. By fishing, I mean I drive the Patriot out onto the beach and park it where I am fishing. This is the reason why I had to replace the hub. The bearing got sand in it and that killed it pretty quick. Oh, and my foot rest right inside the a pillar next to the brake pedal is cracked, and I replaced a left tail light bulb. The rest was all PM stuff. Oil changes, flushed radiator, new tires, etc...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,571 Posts
I've heard a rumor that all Patriots last to 75k then they spontaneously combust, leaving no signs of any former owners or passengers.
If so then Lil Ignatz is on his 4th life! Maybe like a cat, he's got 9 lives! I'm hoping so. :smiley_thumbs_up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
just picked up my first pat its a 2008.. 273k km on it.. engine and tranny run fine, no rust at all.. only issue is a wheel bearing, and one rear window doesnt work. cant complain for $2k.

im the 3rd owner (not counting the lease company) am slowly doing all service just cause i dont know what was done (cvt fluid, spark plugs etc).

the way its running i feel confident i should get another 2 years out of it, driving about 50k km a year. mostly highway with some city
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
I already gave a serious reply in this thread so I feel entitled to just point out that the title of the thread should be "how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
273k km 2008 pat.. unsure what that is for my american friends.. but still going strong.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
So far, Mine lasted me 7,000 miles. Bought it at 14K and now its at 21K with a transmission that is toast and needs replacing.
I have a 2014 latitude FWD 2.4L 5MT. Never used offroad. And she still decided to crap out on me. The 5MT trannys on these things suck a**.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,571 Posts
So far, Mine lasted me 7,000 miles. Bought it at 14K and now its at 21K with a transmission that is toast and needs replacing.
I have a 2014 latitude FWD 2.4L 5MT. Never used offroad. And she still decided to crap out on me. The 5MT trannys on these things suck a**.
You're not the only one to complain about the 5-spd manual. Strange. Usually manuals will last forever, though any clutch will eventually wear out.

Our 2014 5-spd has about 60,000 on it with no problems.

Manual problems before 100,000 are premature and 21,000 is vastly premature. FCA should stand behind it. Have you PMed JeepCares on this website? They might be able to help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Considerations when buying new:
  • Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a new one.
  • If you treat a brand new vehicle right it can last almost forever. There are no worries how it was treated or what happened to it in the past.
  • There are unadvertised (secret) dealer incentives you may not know about and when you start actually negotiating the dealer will bring those into the discussion. It usually follows, "Let me talk to my boss about your offer." They may not say, "Yup there's a rebate we can offer you," usually its more like, "Yeah, if you'll sign right now and don't shop around, we can do it."
  • Interest rates are lower for a new car.
  • If you're a regular customer at an established dealer they'll take care of you in other ways, like loaner cars even after its off warranty, etc.
  • They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.

Considerations of buying used from a business -- dealer or lot:
  • Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a newer one.
  • A used vehicle has already absorbed that first-year depreciation.
  • They can usually provide financing and they will have a list of all the area banks and their rates.
  • A business will usually offer some sort of warranty, and if a really obvious problem shows up in the warranty period, they will probably take care of it. (However, if you're just feeling insecure, hear a funny noise, or can't explain or demonstrate the problem, they will ignore you.) They buy them at auction or trade-in and have no better idea than you do if its going to be reliable or not.
  • They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.
  • Beware the place that says, "We finance anybody" Somebody is paying for that promise and its not the bad credit risks, its the people that actually pay for the car. (Actually sometimes the bad credit risks do pay, by putting 50% down (probably what the business has into the car). Keep that thought in mind when negotiating your price.

Considerations of buying from an individual -- private sale:
  • Its probably a one-owner vehicle and the person has done their best to take care of it (but of course they aren't going to warranty it). Caveat emptor.
  • They have no overhead (building, staff, mechanics, etc) so they can sell for less than a business.
  • The seller probably has no intention of cheating you. If s/he knows the car is a problem they will trade it in or sell it to a business that advertises "We buy cars for cash!"
  • Only down side is that you have to sell your old one -- if its a good one, you too can sell it privately for a better dollar than trading it in. However, if its giving you trouble, you probably better not sell it privately or if you do expect a knuckle sandwich. If you trade or sell to a dealer it may be wholesaled a couple times before anyone finds out what the problem is. Hopefully a business that offers warranties.

Did I miss anything?
You missed my scenario which is the same as what @griff mentioned earlier. Private seller, selling a rebuilt salvage title vehicle. High risk/High Reward purchase. Private seller purchased vehicle at insurance auction like this.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-cars-auction/suvs/jeep/patriot/2014-jeep-patriot-19865358

Seller repaired the vehicle, and is looking to flip it after repairs.

For anyone purchasing any used vehicle, I would highly recommend purchasing a Bluedriver OBD2 scanner. This scanner will read codes that most scanners won't including ABS, Airbag, and those that won't turn on any dash lights to make you aware of any currently existing problems prior to making your purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On my purchase the Bluedriver scanner made me aware of the following codes while showing no dash lights were illuminated.
P0295- "Cylinder 12 Injector 'A' Circuit High. Likely cause was said to be a partially clogged fuel injector. I took it into the shop, had them perform a full fuel injector cleaning flush, and code is now gone.

B1661- "Front Fog Lamp Control Circuit Open". This directed me to inspect the fog lights, and sure enough the fog lights weren't working. I inspected further and found the fog light wiring harness was not present. Likely damaged and not replaced when vehicle was in the accident. Not a purchase show stopper for me, I'll replace the fog light harness.

In regards to the OP's original question. When I was shopping for a used Patriot, I've seen many 2007 and 2008's with over 160K miles on them. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get 200K+ miles on more recent vehicles if maintained.
 
21 - 40 of 77 Posts
Top