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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am desperate for help or tips at this point. I want to note that I am not smart with cars whatsoever, so please don’t come at me for wrong wording and such, I just need help.

I drive a 2014 Jeep Patriot Latitude, 78,000 miles. My car has been in and out of the shop 4 times in the past 2 weeks. Initially took it in because while idling at a stop light it felt like I would get tapped from behind (rear ended kind of) and the RPMS would drop down to 0. My car shuts off, I cannot move my car. I have to put it into park, turn the car off and restart it.

The shop said this was due to my alternator dying and therefore draining my battery. Along with that they replaced my right front axle and front brake pads and rotors. Yep, it was a hefty bill.

I get my car back and my left turn signal is clicking fast, there is a noticeable clunking sound coming from under my car and yep you guessed it, the stalling happened again.

I take it in again to the same shop and they fix the turn signal and say the clunking sound is the new axle needing to be broken in, I get my car back again.

Everything bad comes in 3’s right? A few days later my car shut off again, in traffic, on a two lane road. This time, my car wouldn’t start. It kept turning over and over. I let it rest for a minute or two and boom, it started. I got the heck out of that traffic.

I decided to get a second opinion so I took it to another mechanic. They couldn’t get my car to replicate the stalling, but they tried everything they could. Even the manager drove my car home that night and back the next morning to see what would happen and nothing. They thought it could be the torque converter or something transmission wise, but weren’t 100% sure so they didn’t want to throw parts at my car.

So I take it back to the first mechanic in tears begging them to figure this out. This is 2 weeks in by this time. I told them what the other shop said and they took it from there. This morning they called saying they couldn’t get it to replicate the action either. Even after 4 different techs, 4 test drives and 20 minutes of idling, not a damn thing.
Then, my fiancé goes to pick up the car and well 10 minutes after, it shuts off on him.

I just bought a plug in OBD2 scanner to put in my car and hopefully catch some activity if it happens, but here’s the issue with it all, there is absolutely nothing on my dashboard! No codes being thrown, no check engine light, nada.

I am so fed up and overwhelmed with this. To really make matters worse, I literally just paid my car off last month.

Please help me!
 

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Hi, welcome to the forum.

Without any codes / data it's pretty much a guessing game.

Hopefully the obd scanner will be of help, in particular if it keeps a "freeze frame" record of what's been happening.

If not, you may want to consider and elm327 android based scanner like Jscan, alfaobd, etc. that will capture and display live sensor data while you drive.


Just a guess, but has the crankshaft position sensor and wiring been checked?

A bad sensor or wiring has been the source of stalls for others here.
 

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As Sandstone said, without code(s) set, or a capture of live data when it happens, it is a guess. Guessing can get costly, especially when a tech guesses at expensive parts. My first thought was also a possible bad crankshaft position sensor or wiring/connection. I played Hell trying to diagnose a similar problem about 5 years ago on my '06 Daytona. No codes. Mine wasn't a stalling issue, but SOMETIMES under partial or hard acceleration, it would buck and feel like a big BOOM from under the car, almost like a trans issue. This got progressively worse, but the sensor never self-reported a failure. Replacing it fixed the issue.

My other thought on yours might be a failing lock-up torque convertor in the trans. If you or the shop were to have to "guess" at which part to replace next, lacking any specific data, I'd vote for checking the connection to and replacing the crank position sensor. But word of advice - try to stick with an OE Mopar replacement part, as aftermarkets often fail sooner and sometimes don't play well with the factory computer.
 

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I had a previous vehicle (VW Jetta) that started dying out of the blue on me. It would just straight up die with no care as to when or where... at a stop sign, on the interstate, in the middle of making a left hand turn at a major intersection at rush hour... what a pain. No check engine light, no codes, nothing. Turned out to be a crankshaft position sensor. I'd start there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am thinking about calling a Jeep dealer to have it looked at, since they might’ve come across this issue. I really didn’t want to spend more money but I don’t have enough to buy a whole new car.
I’ll mention the crankshaft position sensor and the torque converter. That is also what the second shop said (torque converter) and they had a Jeep specialist there. It happened again this morning in stop and go traffic and luckily it restarted right away. It’s so scary and dangerous!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The OBD2 reader I got connects to my phone which is super cool and handy and I was able to get the action recorded with the live data feature but it doesn’t show much except for the rpm’s, vehicle speed, engine coolant temp, control module voltage and calculated LOAD value. I was hoping it would throw a code I could show the mechanic but nothing and I feel like the things it recorded wouldn’t prove much either…
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I feel like with the diagnosis the first shop did they would’ve checked the crankshaft position sensor or the torque converter… no? I mean it makes sense they don’t wanna throw parts and take a guess but I feel like if it’s something they checked and missed they should have an idea of what else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Called the dealership, no appointments until end of September. I called the first auto shop I’ve done business with to see if they checked the torque converter and crankshaft and they checked both and all is well. At this point I’m at a complete loss. Do I just drive it hoping things work out or until my car dies for good? I wish this hell of a situation would just end!!
 

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Intermittent problems are the hardest to find, they can be caused when something gets just hot enough, a wire gets bumped just right, etc. which may be why the shops didn't turn anything up.

If both shops already checked "everything", there's really not much else to recommend other than getting a scanner /app with live data recording installed that can record the output of various sensors and other things like the torque converter lock up signal, etc., driving the vehicle as much as you feel comfortable doing, and hopefully the scanner will be able to catch and store the fault the next time it happens.

It could be a sensor, a connector, a wire, or even be the PCM (main computer).

Sorry I can't be of more help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Intermittent problems are the hardest to find, they can be caused when something gets just hot enough, a wire gets bumped just right, etc. which may be why the shops didn't turn anything up.

If both shops already checked "everything", there's really not much else to recommend other than getting a scanner /app with live data recording installed that can record the output of various sensors and other things like the torque converter lock up signal, etc., driving the vehicle as much as you feel comfortable doing, and hopefully the scanner will be able to catch and store the fault the next time it happens.

It could be a sensor, a connector, a wire, or even be the PCM (main computer).

Sorry I can't be of more help...
What scanner would you recommend?
 

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A dealership, or any professional shop (small shops don't always have the expertise) should be able to install a scanner that can capture live data and have you drive until the issue occurs, at which time you bring it in and they diagnose the captured data. If this is a case of a sensor failing, or intermittent bad wiring connection, it may never self-report as bad. Far too many of today's techs rely solely on scanning and pulling a code. If there is no code set, smacking them in the face, they are at a loss as to where to look or go next. Even going into a dealer, if they scan for codes and find none, many just shrug their shoulders. Very few techs today have either the expertise or take the time to try to diagnose stuff like this. Diagnostic time costing $100+ per hour gets costly. They may find a problem within an hour, or spend countless hours and not stumble on the issue. That is the nature of the complexity of today's vehicles.

Based on the items you say the 1st shop has already thrown at the issue, if it were me, I'd go anywhere else, and stay away from them. I think finding a shop who can plug in a live data recorder until it happens again, then try to read the data and address it would be your best bet.
 

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I had similar problems. Somedays it would start right back up. Other times it would take a couple of days. No codes were ever thrown. Anyway, there are a bunch of relays in the front left fender well that can get dirty and corroded. You have to go through the front of that fender well to get to it. The genius that put it there was probably the same genius that put the computer on top of the airbox assembly. My car was haunted till he just happened to pull a relay then plugged in a new relay. He heard a click, tried the car and it started. He cleaned up the area and even put the old relay back in. The car hasn't done it since. And for the love of God, don't bother with a dealer. Don't blow your money on monkey's with a patch on their shirt. They'll just soak you.
 

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I had similar problems. Somedays it would start right back up. Other times it would take a couple of days. No codes were ever thrown. Anyway, there are a bunch of relays in the front left fender well that can get dirty and corroded. You have to go through the front of that fender well to get to it. The genius that put it there was probably the same genius that put the computer on top of the airbox assembly. My car was haunted till he just happened to pull a relay then plugged in a new relay. He heard a click, tried the car and it started. He cleaned up the area and even put the old relay back in. The car hasn't done it since. And for the love of God, don't bother with a dealer. Don't blow your money on monkey's with a patch on their shirt. They'll just soak you.
so there is another fuse box under that front fender ? I've seen some owners ask where is that second fuse box located, do you have to take the tire off to get to that fuse box ?
 

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There's only 1 "fuse box"... actually it's the TIPM. But there is one relay box that you can get to, down below the left headlight, next to the frame rail.
 

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so there is another fuse box under that front fender ? I've seen some owners ask where is that second fuse box located, do you have to take the tire off to get to that fuse box ?
I responded to your other post with info on the relay box.
 

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There's only 1 "fuse box"... actually it's the TIPM. But there is one relay box that you can get to, down below the left headlight, next to the frame rail.
I'm talking about the relay box you mentioned. Not the TIPM or the fuse box. That's a whole other problem. :D
 
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Intermittent problems are the hardest to find, they can be caused when something gets just hot enough, a wire gets bumped just right, etc. which may be why the shops didn't turn anything up.

If both shops already checked "everything", there's really not much else to recommend other than getting a scanner /app with live data recording installed that can record the output of various sensors and other things like the torque converter lock up signal, etc., driving the vehicle as much as you feel comfortable doing, and hopefully the scanner will be able to catch and store the fault the next time it happens.

It could be a sensor, a connector, a wire, or even be the PCM (main computer).

Sorry I can't be of more help...
Bad lock up in transmisión Will not give a code
I am desperate for help or tips at this point. I want to note that I am not smart with cars whatsoever, so please don’t come at me for wrong wording and such, I just need help.

I drive a 2014 Jeep Patriot Latitude, 78,000 miles. My car has been in and out of the shop 4 times in the past 2 weeks. Initially took it in because while idling at a stop light it felt like I would get tapped from behind (rear ended kind of) and the RPMS would drop down to 0. My car shuts off, I cannot move my car. I have to put it into park, turn the car off and restart it.

The shop said this was due to my alternator dying and therefore draining my battery. Along with that they replaced my right front axle and front brake pads and rotors. Yep, it was a hefty bill.

I get my car back and my left turn signal is clicking fast, there is a noticeable clunking sound coming from under my car and yep you guessed it, the stalling happened again.

I take it in again to the same shop and they fix the turn signal and say the clunking sound is the new axle needing to be broken in, I get my car back again.

Everything bad comes in 3’s right? A few days later my car shut off again, in traffic, on a two lane road. This time, my car wouldn’t start. It kept turning over and over. I let it rest for a minute or two and boom, it started. I got the heck out of that traffic.

I decided to get a second opinion so I took it to another mechanic. They couldn’t get my car to replicate the stalling, but they tried everything they could. Even the manager drove my car home that night and back the next morning to see what would happen and nothing. They thought it could be the torque converter or something transmission wise, but weren’t 100% sure so they didn’t want to throw parts at my car.

So I take it back to the first mechanic in tears begging them to figure this out. This is 2 weeks in by this time. I told them what the other shop said and they took it from there. This morning they called saying they couldn’t get it to replicate the action either. Even after 4 different techs, 4 test drives and 20 minutes of idling, not a damn thing.
Then, my fiancé goes to pick up the car and well 10 minutes after, it shuts off on him.

I just bought a plug in OBD2 scanner to put in my car and hopefully catch some activity if it happens, but here’s the issue with it all, there is absolutely nothing on my dashboard! No codes being thrown, no check engine light, nada.

I am so fed up and overwhelmed with this. To really make matters worse, I literally just paid my car off last month.

Please help me!
A Bad lock up in transmisión Will not give a code please tell me mileage
 
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