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Discussion Starter #1
Parking lights turn on but no brake lights.3rd brake light works but that's it.The bulbs looked half dark but not blown I changed the bulbs but still nothing.I have to go to work tomorrow! used my test light to see if power goes to the bulb but it doesn't only the parking light wire does.I am probably going to have to take it to the dealer but if someone knows anything please let me know
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no fuse for brakes according to manual just the 3rd brake light but I checked every single one just in case
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Never thought our Patriots were this sophisticated.If our electrical senses a short it stops sending power to it all together but the only way to get it fixed is to go to the dealer so they can tell the computer to turn it back on.every single wire goes through a module.Pretty neat stuff.Probably would stop some electrical fires or burning more stuff out.

Taught me a lesson though don't use a universal trailer wiring on your pat.I bought the OEM one and it woks perfect now.
 

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i had the same problem and it was the TPIM which they replaced, there isnt a fuse, the TIPM is the box that the fuses and all the wiring plugs into
 

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perhaps the bulbs aren't touching good the inside of the brake lights and that's why they don;t work Check that out too
 

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just an average Joe
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Taught me a lesson though don't use a universal trailer wiring on your pat.I bought the OEM one and it woks perfect now.
The problem was that you were using the non-powered version, right?
Don't use this or similar
Hopkins Hoppy Part#: 48925

It will draw power from the taillights.
It worked initially, but at some point the TIPM (totally integrated power module) saw a spike in Amps and shut it down.

Use one of these:
The ones that have the powered converter, the little "brain box" contains relays just like the OEM, should not have problems.
Modulite Harness for '08s - etrailer.com

Connector is Equipped with a Circuit Protected Powered Taillight Converter
Modulite wiring harnesses reduce the strain on the vehicle wiring system by drawing power for the trailer lights directly from the vehicle battery. Circuit protection further safeguards the vehicle from mis-wire situations on the trailer.
Hopkins you would want to use:

Power Taillight Converter (Solid State)
Part#: 46255


What bugs me is that the parts shops - Oreilly's, AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, etc - all only carry the "old style" non-powered harnesses that just steal power from the taillights. This is fine for older vehicles but not newer vehicles.
 
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Wow... VERY sophisticated.

I don't do any towing but it does make me wonder about other electrical componets such as aftermarket music equipment, amplifiers, and such. I wanted to go HID but then read what a hassle it is and I don't wanna pay the high price of the OEM foggies.
 

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I ordered a T-connector kit from a trailer shop and they got me a Valley made for Compass, Caliber and Patriot. 07-08. I have a Patriot 09 and can tell you that kit won't work with it. I'll have to return it and ask for a T-one, the same model as listed on e-trailer.com.
 

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cost to fix?

sorry to bring back an old thread, i also posted this as a new one, but desperately trying to find answers:

Hi all,
First post here, just got my patriot on monday, and already I'm not a happy camper.
I bought an '07 patriot from a private seller. I had a CAA inspection done and they said the brake lights were out (but high level one still working), I presumed just bulbs so bought it anyway.

Found the bulbs and fuse to be good, had a search around on here and found it was a known issue related to tow package wiring (mine isn't wired but there was a tow package wiring kit in the trunk, must have been uninstalled). Had it in the dealer this morning to look at the diagnostics. TIPM is dead, they want $1120 + tax + labour. Holy Sh*t. I asked them to investigate recon/used etc, waiting for a call back.

Do I have any other options? Anyone who has had this issue fixed it in any other way?

Not a good start to my Jeep life.
Paul
 

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How I Fixed Brake Lights and Saved Hundreds!
I too made the mistake of wiring trailer lights directly into the tail light assembly on my 2007 Jeep Patriot, which knocked out my lower brake lights and sent me to the dealership to get circuits analyzed. After paying $68 to be told I need to buy a new integrated power module (TIPM) costing $725 plus tax & labor, I decided to try a different approach. My overhead brake light still worked but I knew tapping into that circuit would probably knock it out too. I decided to use the overhead brake light to trigger a relay for the lower brake lights, using power from a separate fused circuit directly from the battery. I paid $23 for parts from Advance Auto, which can be obtained a bit cheaper on line. I used a Novita RL44 relay with RS40 socket and followed the wiring diagram, using the existing tail light ground wire and crimp connectors. I connected # 30 lead (Blue) to battery, # 85 lead (White) to ground, # 86 lead (Black) to top brake light, and # 87 lead (Yellow) to lower brake lights. Bingo, all brake lights work again! From here I plan to use trailer wiring harness mentioned in post # 7 of this thread. You must run a 14 AWG wire from the battery to the back lights, which took the most time. This may not help Paul's problem from 2011, but hope it helps some other Jeep / Chrysler owner who gets burned by the Mopar TIPM circuitry. I recommend using relays for any added circuits and take power straight from the battery. -Rick from Indiana
 

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Hello. I have the same issue. This seems to be a great way around the outrageous tipm price. One question. Which side are the third brake lamp wires located? Left? What colors are they? Thanks!
 

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Also is there a place where the wiring splits to the bottom brake lights so you it have to make one connection or do you have to tie into both sides? Thanks again
 
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