[mr_et2]

Reviving my old thread, as I'm still dealing with this issue. Lately I started hearing pretty loud thumps coming from the front when hitting bumps. I suspected the front sway bar bushings. Also, when I had the Jeep in for it's annual NY safety inspection, they told me that it needed new front brake pads. They wanted to charge me a little over $600 to replace them. I said no. So, I ordered new brake pads and new sway bar bushings. I pulled off both front wheels then removed the right caliper and found that the brake pads look perfectly fine. I compared the thickness of both and the old ones have only worn down about 1mm. So the shop lied to me. I thought of replacing them anyway, but decided to save them. Then I checked the right side bushing. Totally trashed. Removed the end link on the right then went over and removed the left side end link. Saw that the left bushing is trashed too. Also noticed that there is grease splattered all over and that it came from the left inner CV joint. I just replaced that axle last September when the shaking problem first started. Good thing it's got a lifetime warranty. I proceeded to remove the left bushing and after struggling for almost an hour trying to get the new bushing on, realized that it is the wrong size. Soooo, I ended up leaving the Jeep sit up on the stands all night. I'll get the correct bushing after work today, along with a new axle.

It'd be really great if the whole shaking issue was caused by the axle... first the worn original and then a defective replacement. My luck doesn't usually go that way, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I also took DeepCherry's advice and got myself a GoPro with a magnetic mount, so if the shakes are still there, hopefully I'll be able to see something in video.

 

[DeepCherry2015]

Be interesting to see if replacing the defective axle resolves it. I can't begin to tell you how frustrating it is these days running into so many defective new parts. A simple little item like even t-stats. When changing out my stock OE stat on my '06 Daytona years ago for a 180, I paid good $$ for an aftermarket name brand. It lasted a few years before crapping out, but then went through a series of 3 or 4 more bad ones that lasted anywhere from a couple months to a couple days. Made in a variety of places, from US, Mexico, Israel, and China. Finally found a 190 that looked much closer to the quality of the OE 203, which has held up.

Equally frustrating is the lack of accuracy of web sites indicating a part is the correct fit for a specific year/make/model. With both my wife and I having allergies, I thought I was doing us a favor by buying the best cabin air filter shown on Rock for my specific Patriot. It even shows a cross-reference to the OE Mopar p/n. A WIX p/n 24313XP. Even the WIX website shows it correct for my 2015 2.4. NO BUENO! When you try to install it, it is about 1/8" to 3/16" too tall in height. The length and width are correct, but if you try to force it, you will destroy it. So, had to put everything back together with the crappy old filter, arrange a return/credit, and just re-ordered what I know worked last time - the Bosch 6016C. If you go on both Rock's and WIX's websites, both still show the 24313XP as being correct for my application, even after I warned them they were wrong. Frustrating especially when it is a big job like you were into, allocated the time to work on it, then discover wrong/defective parts after the car is 1/2 torn apart.

 

[mr_et2]

Frustrating especially when it is a big job like you were into, allocated the time to work on it, then discover wrong/defective parts after the car is 1/2 torn apart.

Absolutely. Thankfully I have a motorcycle that I can ride to work or I would have had to use a PTO day. For the life of me, I don't understand why none of the parts stores/Amazon/ebay/etc seem to know that the FDII exist or what parts fit it. Did they really make THAT few of them?

 

[mr_et2]

Well, what a Jeep-drama filled weekend I had. Saturday, I spent over 2 hours riding around from one auto part store to the next trying to find bushings that would actually fit my sway bar. Took a caliper with me, and finally found some at a Napa store about 15 miles from home. Once I had the correct size, 24.1mm, they went on eazy-peazy. Then I went to tackle the CV axle. Pretty sure I invented a LOT of new swear words. The old axle came out without issue. I first inspected it looking for where the grease had come out. Both boots are intact with no splits or cuts, so where the grease came from is a mystery. Then I compared the new one with the old one. They looked identical so I proceeded to install it. I put a little grease on the snap ring then slid the shaft into the trans. It went in almost all the way and then stopped, with about 1/4 inch to go. I then tapped on the end of the shaft to try to seat it. No luck. I figured maybe the snap ring was the culprit so I went to pull the axle back out to inspect it... but it wouldn't come out. Over the course of 3 hours I tried 3 pry bars, a block of wood, and 2 hammers trying to get it out without damaging it. Around 8pm I had to call it quits for the night before I really lost my temper with it. This morning I gave it another attempt. Still wouldn't go it, still wouldn't come out. Well, it did finally come out, but I don't think that Autozone will let me return it, considering the condition that it's now in.

That's another part of the drama. I had replaced that axle last September, with one I purchased from Advance Auto. Has a lifetime warranty. I went to Advance to get a replacement. Told them the problem. They informed me that they don't carry a front left axle for the Patriot any longer, so I can't get a new one from them. And my lifetime warranty is worthless. Awesome.

So, for now, I put the old one back on. Got the trans refilled about 10 minutes before it started pouring out. Seriously considering taking it to a shop to get the axle replaced now... but I need to find a new shop that I trust first, since the one I had been going to screwed me.

 

[mr_et2]

For the past week I've been hearing a metallic grinding noise when slowing coming to a light, etc. Sounds like it's coming from the front right. So today I decided to investigate. The wheel bearing is nice and tight and makes no noise when I spin the wheel. The brakes look like new. Decided to check the rear in case my ears were deceiving me. I found that both rear brake calipers were seized. The left side wasn't too bad and I was able to get it nice and free with brake cleaner and some brake grease, and some new pins. The right side caliper was another story. It was 100% seized and I had to take off the mounting bracket to get the caliper off. Ended up replacing the caliper. I would have replaced both calipers, but the store I went to only had the right side. got it all back together and took it for a spin. Grinding noise is still there. And it's definitely coming from the front right.

It's got to be that wheel bearing.So, that's my project for this weekend, along with finally replacing the front left CV axle. Hopefully that'll make it quiet and shake-free finally.

 

[mr_et2]

Over the past week I've replaced the RF wheel bearing, LF CV axle, RR brake caliper, both rear brake pads/rotors/parking brake shoes. The grinding noise I've been hearing is now gone. The banging I've been hearing up front is caused by the 1 month old sway bar bushings being shot already. They're NAPA brand and look exactly like MOOG, so much so that I think they are made by MOOG.

The banging and grinding was so bad this past week that I was actually afraid to drive it. Thankfully I was able to ride my motorcycle to work every day. I have not replaced the sway bar bushings yet, and may decide not to. I removed the end links and the noise disappeared. I haven't really noticed any difference in the ride quality, but then again I don't drive very aggressively. I was out there working on it every day up til today, and I've noticed some things that have me concerned. First, I'm getting too old for this [email protected], I feel like I've been run over my a bus. But also, I'm not sure this Jeep is worth putting any more money into. Since the shaking-when-accelerating issue began last July I've replaced all 4 wheel bearings, all 4 CV axles, both front control arms, engine/trans mounts, rear brakes, and had it to 4 different shops. I've put over $2000 into it. It still shakes when accelerating. It also looks like the subframes are going to need to be replaced within the year. They look horrible, but I tapped on them all over and they're still solid. Also, on the quarter panels behind the rear wheels has rust bubbling up under the paint, as well as a quarter-sized spot above the windshield. Oh, and I also noticed coolant dripping from the back of the engine skid-plate. Just some minor dripping, radiator & bottle are still full.

What's next? I am losing trust in it. I have a 25 mile drive to work, and I'm on call 24/7/365. I'm so frustrated. Please excuse my rant, but I really don't know how much longer my Patriot will be with me.

 

[breadtruck]

That sucks man. Gotta have confidence in your vehicle, especially if on call like that

 

[Kes Nomad]

I read the forum and more and more I come to the conclusion that with the maintenance and repair of jeeps (I think that this also applies to other cars) is no better than in our country (((
We can not find a normal service station. You have to look for directions. At one service station, they normally make the chassis, at the other, engines and transmission. Finding a good auto electrician is like finding a million dollars on the road.
There is no trust in official Jeep dealers. They only think about how to get more money from you...

 

[jaison]

First, I'm getting too old for this [email protected], I feel like I've been run over my a bus.

That's the truth. I almost regret when I get into a project. Mine been up on stands since Saturday. I was away for a few days and I can't get the motivation to continue. I been trying to get the front left cv seal out and slap some new axles in.

Finding a good auto electrician is like finding a million dollars on the road.

You can say that again!

 

[Treegrower]

I just received my Rock Auto order this week for serpentine belt replacement and rear sway bar link/bushing replacement. I consider both as wear items and general maintenance on my 9 + year old Patriot. I went with all OEM MOPAR parts at about 30% more than aftermarket. At my mileage, I am going to proactively replace the tensioner and 2 other plastic pulleys with the belt, with the idea that this will last for rest of my ownership.

I participate in other automotive forums with professional mechanic members and there is really an uptick in discussions about poor aftermarket parts quality. Name brands like MOOG and Timken are no longer a guarantee of excellent quality. That's been a very hard realization for an old duffer like me.

Sorry for your difficulties mr_et2. Most of us can empathize with the frustration.

 

[mr_et2]

Yeah, aftermarket companies are all moving their factories overseas, and their products suffer for it.

 

[mr_et2]

Today I replaced the front sway bar bushings with grease-able Energy Suspension bushings, replaced the sway bar end links with grease-able Moogs, and replaced the brake rotors and pads. I really thought that the grinding noise I keep hearing must have been caused by the front right brake. It wasn't. It still makes the grinding noise. It's obviously a rotational grinding coming from the front right, but I've replaced everything in the front that rotates. As well as everything in the back. It's got me completely stumped. I can only hear the noise when going slow, like around 10-15mph. It's not affected by braking.

Anyone have any clues?

And of course, the shaking continues. It's no longer just when accelerating, now it shakes all the time. I got myself a knock-off GoPro with a magnetic mount, and one of these days I'm going to stick it to the bottom of the Pat, one corner at a time and see if that sheds any light on the situation.

 

[jaison]

I just received my Rock Auto order this week for serpentine belt replacement

I wish I had it in me to try that myself. are you working off a lift or jack stands?

Today I replaced the front sway bar bushings with grease-able Energy Suspension bushings

How are those working out for you? I have the same ones.

 

[mr_et2]

How are those working out for you? I have the same ones.

It's only been a few days, but they are working perfectly. No noise from them at all. They also seemed to fit better than the Napa ones that I had on there before. With the Napa ones, I had to kinda wrestle them onto the sway bar and then beat the metal bracket into place in order to bolt them down. With these, it all fell together perfectly. Hopefully I won't have to replace them again.

 

[Treegrower]

I wish I had it in me to try that myself. are you working off a lift or jack stands?

Weekend garage warrior here. Floor jacks, jack stands, and Rhino Ramps.

I may not get these parts on for a few weeks - too many irons in the fire already. Good tensioner video: ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqGOfilkXDg&ab_channel=TRQ

 

[Treegrower]

Today I replaced the front sway bar bushings with grease-able Energy Suspension bushings, replaced the sway bar end links with grease-able Moogs, and replaced the brake rotors and pads. I really thought that the grinding noise I keep hearing must have been caused by the front right brake. It wasn't. It still makes the grinding noise. It's obviously a rotational grinding coming from the front right, but I've replaced everything in the front that rotates. As well as everything in the back. It's got me completely stumped. I can only hear the noise when going slow, like around 10-15mph. It's not affected by braking.

Anyone have any clues?

And of course, the shaking continues. It's no longer just when accelerating, now it shakes all the time. I got myself a knock-off GoPro with a magnetic mount, and one of these days I'm going to stick it to the bottom of the Pat, one corner at a time and see if that sheds any light on the situation.

No clues. on the rotational noise..... very perplexing. Could it be something on the drive axles?

The interweb claims that polyurethane bushings can be more noisy (NVH). Do you notice anything vs. the OEM rubber ones?

 

[jaison]

The interweb claims that polyurethane bushings can be more noisy (NVH). Do you notice anything vs. the OEM rubber ones?

My personal experience with Moog polyurethane blue bushings was good, but I decided to try the greaseable energy suspension bushings and it seems to get loud quicker than I think it should. On the other hand, I could have other things going on up front addng to it. Once I get my front end back together, I'll give them another shot. One thing is for sure, I have gotten extremely good and quick at taking them on and off.

 

[mr_et2]

No clues. on the rotational noise..... very perplexing. Could it be something on the drive axles?

The interweb claims that polyurethane bushings can be more noisy (NVH). Do you notice anything vs. the OEM rubber ones?

Perplexing indeed. I suppose it could be caused by an axle. It doesn't sound like it to me, but at this point I don't think anything would surprise me.

I've also heard that poly bushings can be noisier than rubber, but as far as these fronts go, only time will tell. They're dead silent right now, but they've only been in there for a few days. However, I have had the Energy Suspension bushings in the rear for (I think) over 2 years now, and they're still dead silent. The OEM rears squeaked like a SOB.