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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I connect the battery, I hear relays chatter for a couple of seconds then the headlights come on. The dahboard shows "No Bus" and if I connect a diagnostic tool to the OBDII connection it says "connecting" but never progresses. Is there an obvious cause for this, e.g. a fuse somewhere that feeds the ECM?

Speedometer Car Tachometer Light Gauge

Communication Device Gadget Telephony Portable communications device Mobile device
 

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According to previous posts, "No Bus" means you've tried to put too many people in it and it's telling you it's "No Bus". :) j/k

Seriously, sometimes it's just a glitch, disconnecting the battery again then re-connecting sometimes fixes it.

If not you can check all the fuses, as well as the ground connection next to the battery.

It has been known to happen when the radio malfunctions due to water getting into it, or if the wrong speed canbus radio has been installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Sandstone, I had hoped for a reply from you. I have disconnected and reconected the battery many time without it being fixed. However, I have now found that the Haynes on line manual, which has been my reference, shows fuse 2 as being AWD or 4WD while some google responses show it as ECU/AWD so I will check that today. Also will check out the ground connection and any other possibilities. It is nearly a year that I have had this problem which occured shortly after an engine swap (initially the electrics were fine and the starter motor plus fuel pump were also good but the engine would not fire.) so it will be good if I can finally fix it :)
 

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You're welcome.

Also, I came across across this post citing a bad !2v wire from the TIPM to the WCM in the steering column:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You're welcome.

Also, I came across across this post citing a bad !2v wire from the TIPM to the WCM in the steering column:
Thanks for that. I have just come across a YouTube video,
, that has the exact symptoms I am experiencing and solved the problem by dismantling and cleaning connections of the Totally Integrated Power Module, TIPM or fuseblock for most of us :). I will start on that tomorrow but will have to buy more contact cleaner to finish the job. Hopefully, I may see things go back to normal...
 

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2014 Sport 4X4 FD2 Off-road, Falken Wildpeak A/T, All weather & convienance group, EVIC, ATC, Hitch
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Just an FYI, if the one that you purchased is from a vehicle that had different options from what yours has, it will need to be programmed. You could take it to a dealer for that or do it yourself if you have an ELM327 code reader and an app such as OBD JScan (android) or Appcar DiagFCA (windows).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just an FYI, if the one that you purchased is from a vehicle that had different options from what yours has, it will need to be programmed. You could take it to a dealer for that or do it yourself if you have an ELM327 code reader and an app such as OBD JScan (android) or Appcar DiagFCA (windows).
Thanks for this info. So this is something different from the reset procedure? Can you tell me more or point me to a source of information?
 

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Hmmm, maybe I was wrong. Check out the video linked below. I know it's for a Wrangler, but the TIPMs all work the same.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK Replaced the TIPM and all is normal EXCEPT I get a P2185 error code and the engine does not fire. The error code is for “Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High.” which is because the old engine had two sensors and the new engine block has one of those blocked off. I can probably fool the ECM by putting a resistor across the connection for the missing sensor if I only new a suitable value.
Presumably because of this, I have an engine fail light which is on solid for about twelve seconds and then flashes. This may also be the cause of the engine not starting: the starter motor runs and there is fuel. I will check for spark later today.
I guess I could try and remove the block fitted to the position where the second sensor goes and put a sensor in. Trouble is, heaps of difficult stuff has to be removed to get to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK Replaced the TIPM and all is normal EXCEPT I get a P2185 error code and the engine does not fire. The error code is for “Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High.” which is because the old engine had two sensors and the new engine block has one of those blocked off. I can probably fool the ECM by putting a resistor across the connection for the missing sensor if I only new a suitable value.
Presumably because of this, I have an engine fail light which is on solid for about twelve seconds and then flashes. This may also be the cause of the engine not starting: the starter motor runs and there is fuel. I will check for spark later today.
I guess I could try and remove the block fitted to the position where the second sensor goes and put a sensor in. Trouble is, heaps of difficult stuff has to be removed to get to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, on reflection I guess I have to bite the bullet and fit a sensor. This means getting off and replacing a pile of difficult parts, then finding a way to remove the plug :( Have ordered a new sensor for AUD60 so better get started...
 
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