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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I replaced my front driver side CV axle the other day. I took some pics and would like share the steps to do this task. It's not an overly difficult task but give yourself at least two hours, more if you have a lot of rust.

Tools:
  • Penetrating oil
  • Your favourite Grease
  • Your favourite jack
  • Jack stand
  • Wheel chocks/blocks
  • Drip pan
  • Ratchet wrench with 18mm, 19mm, 32mm sockets
  • Breaker bar
  • 15mm wrench
  • Torque Wrench
  • Large crowbar

Let's get started now. Park your Patriot on a level surface, don't engage the hand brake as you can damage the cable during the lifting process.
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Chock the opposite far wheel. In my case, the rear passenger is blocked.
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While the tires are firmly on the ground, loosen your lug nuts with your breaker bar and 19mm socket. You only need to get them loose a turn at most.
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Now place your jack in the appropriate frame corner next to the wheel. You can find info on where the just jack points are, in my case it's directly below the driver mirror. I'm using my bottle jack, the factory jeep jack will work fine. Raise the wheel an inch or two off the ground. Place your jack stand next to your lifting jack and release your jack. Let the stand take the full weight. I kept my jack locked in place as safety too.
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Now using your Ratchet, remove the lug nuts and wheel. I placed the wheel under the Jeep frame as additional safety.
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The brake caliper bracket needs to be removed. There are two 18mm bolts on the back that attaches it to the knuckle, one above the other. Spray with penetrating oil and let sit for a moment. Use a breaker bar to get started, then loosen the rest with the ratchet.
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Then remove the lower bolt below completely.
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Hold the caliper while removing the top bolt by hand. It will take a bit of force to slide off the rotor but it will come off. You should secure the caliper to the strut spring with a bungee cord.
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Will continue in next post. Pic limit reached!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Remove the rotor off the knuckle and set aside.
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The ball joint will have to separated, there is one bolt on the back side that holds it in place. Spray penetrating oil on the bolt and nut and let sit for a moment. Use a 15mm wrench on the bolt head, and -18mm socket on the bolt and remove the bolt completely.
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If stuck, thread the nut on the end 2 or 3 turns and use a hammer to drive it out.
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The get the ball joint out I used a long chisel and hammer to knock it downwards, and then forced it out and to the side by hand. Sorry no pics, it is a 2 handed job. You can use the crowbar against the knuckle, careful as it might damage the rubber boot. There are a few ways to get it separated you can find online.
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Undo the cotter pin with the pliers.
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Spray penetrating oil on the axle nut and let sit for a moment.
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Use a 32mm socket on the break bar and remove the axle nut. It’s under 180 foot pounds of torque, use all your weight to free it.
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Your new axle should have a new nut and cotter pin so you should not need these anymore. Except if the axle is stuck in the knuckle, then turn the nut 2 or 3 turns and hammer it out.
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Part 3 will continue in next post...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Rotate the knuckle to the right (or relevant direction for you) and push in the axle spines through the knuckle. It will take a bit of effort as it’s tight but it will clear through.
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Before beginning to remove the inner axle from the transmission, reach in and feel the gap between the axle housing and transmission as a reference of what a fully seated axle should feel like, not much of a gap plus you should feel the rubber flange of the axle seal.
To remove the axle I used the hook part of the crowbar, weaved it in and around axle house and transmission. Try guiding the end in place with your hand, be mindful of the protruding rubber flange of the axle seal is there and can get damaged here. Place a drip pan in case any transmission oil comes out when the axle is removed, in my case nothing came out thankfully. Not a lot of effort is needed to get it out, while pulling the axle out with one hand and leveraging the crowbar slowly it will pop up quickly.
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Ta da!
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Reinstalling the new axle is the reversal of these steps. I did not take a pic of the next step which is to grease the end of the new cv axle inner C-clip in lots of grease. The clip jingles around when new and the grease holds it in place, try to centre the clip around the axle. Insert this end into the transmission while gently rotating until the splines line up, push in hard. Now feel the back of the housing and transmission, does it feel like the old one? If not, you can compress in the axle and give it a few knocks with a hammer on the axle nut end (use the old nut to protect the threads) until it is as far as it can go.
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Pass the axle through the knuckle, like before it was a tight angle so use force. Get the ball joint end to point into the knuckle, I tapped into place with a hammer from below. You will see through the bolt hole when you have tapped enough for the bolt to clear. Get your 15mm wrench and 18mm socket, tighten up and torque to 60-foot pounds.
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Use the new axle nut and tighten to 180-foot pounds and install new cotter pin. Attach the Caliper back into place and torque the two 18mm bolts to 80-foot pounds.
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Attach your wheels back into place over the lug nuts. Finger tighten all 5 bolts for now. Lower the Jeep down from the Jack and Jack stand. Tighten the lug nuts to 100-foot pounds.

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All done!
 

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You did a fantastic job on the Jeep, and documentation of the steps you took to do it. Thank you so much for the tutorial on replacing a CV Axle.
 
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