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Been done to death but I cant find all info with links etc to know i'm on right track. Want to service the CVT (replace filters and fluid) also have seen this

4 ports CVT Transmission Oil Cooler, 2 for Engine Coolant 2 for CVT Fluid.
2 pipes for the inlet/outlet of coolant
2 pipes for the inlet/outlet of the transmission oil so you can route it to an external cooler. Cant post link as first post apologies but its on amazon Reference OEM number:21606-1XF0A, 216061XF0A, 21606-3TX0A, 216063TX0A

Question, do you advise route to external cooler in all instances? or do you install above with the blocked returns and the cooler disperses heat sufficiently on its own?, I have noticed whine when working CVT hard, then goes away under normal driving. (just bought a 2013 so pretty certain needs CVT service at a minimum).

Also the fluid I should use, dipstick, pan with plug and filters needed, any buy links appreciated.
 

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Welcome!

The Dorman pan with the plug is here:

Felpro pan gasket:

Pan strainer filter

Dipstick:

Add-on Cooler (there are others besides this one too)

Cooler fliter:

O-Ring for #4 Oil-to-Water or Integrated bypass plate:

Good fluids are Redline, AMSoil, Valvoline, and Castol Transmax. All are better than Mopar fluid IMO.

All CVT equipt models come with a cooler installed per diagram below, with some differences.

90899


Unless you have an FDII, the 2013 you have still has the cooler, but won't have water-to-oil cooler #4 or #3 bypass valve as shown. Instead it has the bypass valve integrated into a plate that replaces #4 (below).

90901



You can add another cooler core to the stock core by cutting the lower tube (return line) on the stock cooler, flare both ends with a flaring tool, then use hose clamps and rubber hose to connect the new add-on cooler core between the return line of the factory cooler, and the return line to the transmission; like this:

90900
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sandstone, thousand thankyou's for the rapid response. I am thinking the additional cooler on top of the stock one maybe overkill for my uses, its mainly local driving and will hardly see offroad. I will get to ordering today, will keep post updated with progress !
 

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For good measure, I'll throw in the basics of the fluid/filter change.

Torque specs:

Transmission pan bolt torque spec is 8 N·m or 70 inch lbs.

The three bolts for the pan strainer are also torqued to 8 N·m or 70 inch lbs.

The 4 bolts on the soup can / plate are torqued to 4 N·m or 37 inch lbs.

Be careful as they can strip real easy.


Procedure:

From memory, it goes like this,

Securely and safely raise the front of the vehicle so you can remove the front skid plate / splash guard.

Remove the skid plate/ plastic splash guard.

Put a drain pan under the transmission pan.

Loosen the transmission pan bolts (10mm) until the fluid starts draining.

Wait til the fluid is finished draining, then take out all the bolts and remove the pan.

Clean the pan and the magnets, check for lots of metal bits. Hopefully you won't have any.

Remove, clean/re-install or replace the pick-up screen (3 10mm bolts).

Re-install the transmission pan with a new gasket. Don't over tighten the bolts or it can strip.

There's a filter under the aux cooler soup can looking thing (or plate with integrated bypass valve) that should be replaced.

To get to it you have to remove the battery and battery tray, then remove the 4 bolts (10mm) holding the soup can thing / plate on.

Once you get the four bolts out, pull the soup can thing/plate out far enough to get the filter out of the trans. You don't need to disconnect the lines to do this.
90905


Put the new filter in, re-install the soup-can thing/plate using a new O ring if possible.
90904



Again, don't over tighten.

Re-install the battery tray and battery.

Lower the vehicle, add the proper amount of fluid per chart (below), check for leaks.

90902


Re-install the skid plate / plastic splash guard when you're confident all is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello Sandstone again, Happy New Year for 2020!, question, what is part number for the Oil Cooler (one that goes with the O-ring) I have Part Number: 68025160AA, 2920A141 but cant seem to find a deal with cooler plus gasket. Any links appreciated (delivery to Australia)

I have ordered all other parts as listed above from Amazon. They have the Juke is that the same? 4 Ports CVT Transmission Oil Cooler Fix Overheating for Nissan Juke Sentra Rogue | eBay
 

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Happy New Year!

As I mentioned above, your vehicle likely has the integrated by-pass valve plate along with the cooler out at the radiator, so you don't need to buy the oil-to-water cooler.

IMO, having the integrated bypass valve plate is better; it's easier to access the filter and there's no risk of it leaking radiator coolant into the transmission.

As far as cooling goes, I really don't think the oil-to-water helps much anyway. :)
 

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Happy New Year!

As I mentioned above, your vehicle likely has the integrated by-pass valve plate along with the cooler out at the radiator, so you don't need to buy the oil-to-water cooler.

IMO, having the integrated bypass valve plate is better; it's easier to access the filter and there's no risk of it leaking radiator coolant into the transmission.

As far as cooling goes, I really don't think the oil-to-water helps much anyway. :)
I know this is a older post——but, part of the reason for the Intricate valve and filter is to allow the transmission to warm up quicker at low temps. It will close the transmission fluid flow to the air to air cooler off and route it only through the radiator. As the antifreeze warms, so does the transmission fluid. Doubt if the is needed in Australia.
The air to air addition is probably a cost saving effort to not have to use two different radiators based on which engine-transmission is used. The OEM 2.0 liter and 4 speed automatic were reliable And well tested. The 2.4 liter and CVT were a match made in the dark. Not really much of a increase in power, lousy fuel mileage, transmission that can’t decide which gear to be in anytime. It was supposed to be the upgraded package for the Patriot Latidue. Most customers in the US were never happy with the noisy, loud engine and constantly shifting tranny.
 

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I know this is a older post——but, part of the reason for the Intricate valve and filter is to allow the transmission to warm up quicker at low temps. It will close the transmission fluid flow to the air to air cooler off and route it only through the radiator. As the antifreeze warms, so does the transmission fluid. Doubt if the is needed in Australia.
The air to air addition is probably a cost saving effort to not have to use two different radiators based on which engine-transmission is used. The OEM 2.0 liter and 4 speed automatic were reliable And well tested. The 2.4 liter and CVT were a match made in the dark. Not really much of a increase in power, lousy fuel mileage, transmission that can’t decide which gear to be in anytime. It was supposed to be the upgraded package for the Patriot Latidue. Most customers in the US were never happy with the noisy, loud engine and constantly shifting tranny.
Let me add; transmission fluid changes every 60,000 or less miles, no way to check fluid levels (at the customer level), a engine that required spark plug changes every 30,000 miles, terrible fuel mileage- two and four wheel drive models and poor match up with the onboard computer, allowing frequent shifting, causing high fluid temperatures even with the special synthetic fluid used and the need for additional cooling, ie air to air oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update : Parts listed above all arrived from Amazon today. Im re-reading your post Sandstone, I will confirm visually with mine to see if has the bypass valve plate as discussed. I am still trying to understand how the exisiting system works with the bypass valves, is there a smaller cooler already installed for the cvt going up near the radiator? or is it just pumping cvt fluid up steel lines and back around cooling that way? Ill be looking at flairing tool options at local parts store tomorrow.
Why the Patriot, well its my second one ive had. First was a new 2010 Limited and I sold it at 70 thousand kilometres (44 thou miles) (never gave me trouble, but only used it for local small city trips never offroad).
I love the size and the look. I dont give my cars a hard time so hoping the achilles heel of a CVT holds up. This one I bought cheap though it does have 170 thousand kilometres (106 thou miles) on it.
kind regards ppl and thankyou for the informative feedback, appreciate it. Belated Happy New Year :)
 

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I am still trying to understand how the exisiting system works with the bypass valves, is there a smaller cooler already installed for the cvt going up near the radiator? or is it just pumping cvt fluid up steel lines and back around cooling that way?
Here's a little more info on it:

91021


91023
 

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Hi Ozhawk, as a DIY Patriot owner I would like to share some thoughts and give some segestions.

1) If you feel overwhelmed by this project you can split it into two. On Day 1 complete the oil change w/ 2 new filters (the lower screen and the cooler filter). Then on day 2 you can add the Aftermarket cooler.

2) be very carfull not to over fill your CVT it will foam up and overheat. I recommend the level be filled to 32-34mm on your aftermarket dipstick after driving for 20+ minutes.

3) If you have deep pockets it's best to change the fluid twice back to back. After you install the new drain pan, drive it for 20 minutes then drain the fluid out of your new drain plug and refill it. There is no need to replace the filters the second time around. This method will remove more of old fluid = smoother, better protection. Other wise you will still be running 20-30% of old (nasty) fluid in your CVT. If you change it twice that number goes down to 10%.

4) let it drain overnight if you can. I found that I get 1/2 quart more fluid out of my CVT if I let it set overnight. another trick to getting more of the old Fluid out is the use a jack to lift up different parts of the car. For example: as your draining your fluid, jack up the back end of the patriot and more fluid will come out. Then jack the passenger side up and more fluid will come out. The dealer guys have a lift and have no way of using this method to drain out maximum fluid.

Thoughts on the cooler... you live in Australia so I'm assuming it gets HOT and doesn't get very cold. In your situation its not a bad idea to install the additional cooler, it might help extend the life of your fluid and the CVT. Especially if your going to tow, drive it hard, go up big hills, or even drive on very hot days.

let us know how it goes.
 

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With it being aftermarket I'm guessing there is a special place for it? Any pictures on that? I'm a newbie to the site and will have a thousand questions.
 

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Is there a recommendation on the scan tool to use to check temp? Do you have to purchase any software or is it as simple as something that can link up to my cell phone?
 

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