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Honda has committed CVT's across their model line so they have made a big commitment to that transmission. Maybe as volume goes up the price will drop for repair or exchange. Jatco seems to have a monopoly on the CVT so that needs to end.
 

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If you want FDII gearing you'll need a FDII rear end, not sure on the programming though, honestly its an awful lot of work for a marginal improvement in performance
I was actually talking about putting a 6AT in an FDII, in which case you'd already have the FDII rear end, but would need to change the differential gears in the 6AT to match.

I'm not sure if the OP has a FWD or a 4x4, but if it's a 4x4 CVT then the rear end would have to be re-geared or swapped with the one that came from a 6AT.
 

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Honda has committed CVT's across their model line so they have made a big commitment to that transmission. Maybe as volume goes up the price will drop for repair or exchange. Jatco seems to have a monopoly on the CVT so that needs to end.
Me and one or two others have had discussions on how this could be done. The two ideas so far are basically a widened bicycle chain with size-changing cogs at each end(my idea) and a pair of angled swirly gears set up with adjustable positioning(straight outa NH, but not from Ignatz. Rather from somebody who trimmed his fenders, put 32's on, and blew his also-unmaintained CVT).
 

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Honda has committed CVT's across their model line so they have made a big commitment to that transmission. Maybe as volume goes up the price will drop for repair or exchange. Jatco seems to have a monopoly on the CVT so that needs to end.
I hadn't heard that, and it's encouraging. Honda is a major manufacturer with a good reputation. They probably waited for other companies (FCA & NIssan) to find the bugs, then addressed them, and suddenly CVTs are avant garde.

I can't wait to run this by my cousin. She and her husband are loyal Honda customers. Her husband is into tech, both professionally and personally, and they had one of the first Honda hybrids. No doubt they'll soon get one -- I'll be interested in his opinion.
 

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Honda has committed CVT's across their model line so they have made a big commitment to that transmission. Maybe as volume goes up the price will drop for repair or exchange. Jatco seems to have a monopoly on the CVT so that needs to end.
Not exactly "across their model line". The CVT is standard on the CR-V, and available as an option on the Fit, HR-V, Civic, and Accord. All lightweight 4 cylinder models. All models with a V-6 get a wait for it...... 6 speed automatic! and the pilot, ridgeline, and odyssey are not available with a CVT trans.
And then there is this......
https://blog.caranddriver.com/honda-recalling-143000-civic-and-fit-models-for-cvt-trouble/
 

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Lol, that's not even for a belt!!! That's for a part that any transmission has, not holding up to the pressure of working with a CVT.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hi guys I'm Dan and just signed up. I have a 2012 4x4 Sport. I don't know if anyone has done this or is interested but thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone is wants more info on the topic. My CVT transmission went out at 112,000 miles. I have never been a fan of those and really felt it was one of the few things I didn't

like about my Patriot. I figured an upgrade to a 6-speed "could" be done so I just went for it. I just got it back and I'm loving it. If anyone wants to know more I'd be happy to share any info and plan on putting a more detailed parts and process list.
A shop did it or you tackled it at home? I plan to replace the junked CVT in my 12 and usually do these things myself. Just wondering how much trouble it was? In the last year I’ve done the clutch in my truck, swapped power stroke engine an transmission- tranny twice- all on the floor. I hate the floor. And Ford.
I typically do most of my own work as well. Unfortunately due to garage space (and I live in Chicago in the winter) and knowing up-front I wouldn't be able to do the computer aspect of this project the work was done by a shop. However it was by a mechanic I know personally and I was involved in every nut and bolt of this project. I did all the background research and tracking down and removing of parts on my own prior to starting this. If you can do the projects you described you can do this no problem. There were no issues in terms of mechanical difficulty. That was all pretty straight forward. The only problems arose with part compatibility in which cases I would have to go find another part; which in-turn would hold up the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Sorry for the delay guys. I spent a great deal of time researching information before I started this project. Scouring the internet for part numbers, combing through online threads, calling and visiting dealerships, and talking to technicians and parts guys.

*****PLEASE NOTE***** In hind-sight the most important part of this build is NOT in fact the transmission. It is the WIRING HARNESS. I recommend starting there to see if this can be obtained before starting this project. Originally I was told by everyone that I spoke with (at no less than 3 dealerships) that the transmission would tie into the Engine Harness. This is completely false. Nor is there a "pigtail" that you can just add on to. The good new is the old engine harness doesn't need to be replaced. The very bad news is that the part needed is the Main Body Wiring Harness. This is the harness that goes from radiator, though the firewall, behind the dash, all the way to the rear tail lights. There are two model number from 15'-17' that will work. Must be for same setup as your. The 2.4 and 2.0 harnesses are NOT compatible as far as I'm told (why I'm not exactly sure as they are separate from the engine harness-however if someone tries and and it works let me know) As you know many of the Compass parts are swappable to the Patriot so I took a chance on a harness from a Compass with a different part number but the same setup(2.4L, 4x4, 6 AT). It worked but the connectors for the tail lights and air bags were different and had to be re-wired to the old connectors. Otherwise this was fine. The crap part was the extra work of taking apart the dash and the seats out of the car. Connections are before the doors so the inside of the doors don't need to come apart. I bout this part for $200.-used Far better than the 700 from the dealer.

The only parts that need to be "added" to this project are below. The rest are parts that need to be replaced.
-Transmission Control Module -$60-used #5150823AG
-Flywheel Adapter/flex-plate.( I never obtained a part number for this but will add a picture. It bolts the new torque converter to the existing flywheel.It is the same between the Patriot and Compass)- $35-used
-6-Speed Automatic Transmission ( The current prices for these are relatively cheap. I believe it is because they are both very common and because they are still so new.Meaning no one is really looking for a replacement for their's yet and so any taken out of wrecks are basically taking up shelf space at the yard) $525 -used (with only 30 miles on it, It was basically brand new. Even the inspection markings from the factory were untouched).

The only other parts that are needed to be replaced are as follows:
-Shift Cable (Originally told my old one would work but it was too short) $90-new #68184469AG (should be easy to get used)
-Left CV shaft $70- used # 52123871AB (I recommend finding this used;as its a dealer only part and $380)
-Right CV shaft- $90 - new #52123873AC
-PTU/Transfer Case (this one is tricky. I'm told that some of the earlier ones will work but mine did not..Mounting holes to the transmission did not align)
$250-used #21123878AB
-Transmission Cooling lines $75.19-new #68199891AA
-Transmission Cooloer bypass (radiator side) $28.29-new #68192000AA
-Transmission Mount/Enigne mount (transmission side) $80.63 -new #68183993AD
-Mount Bolt and Coned Washer m12x1.75x102 - $2.86 x 3 -new #06510825AA
-Mount Bolt and mounting hex head $1.37 x4 - new #06104412AA

The last thing to contend with was the computers. More Specifically the SKIM module. This is where my mechanic came in. All the major components ie: the BUS, ECM/PCU, TCU, are "flashable" to the new vin and can be programmed to recognize the 6-speed AT. However you will have a conflict with your current SKIM module as there will be a conflict with the original VIN and the other newly flashed modules. There are two routes to take here. A reputable mechanic or dealer can get a new SKIM module to be pre-programmed the the "new" VIN you are using. (Most likely the one off of the transmission you buy). I'm told this is a viable option by the mechanic that did the work. However I didn't go this route so I can't give any more specifics on that.

What I did was go to a junkyard and they sold me an entire steering column with the key, cylinder, and attached SKIM module for $60. DO NOT FORGET TO OBTAIN THE VIN NUMBER OFF OF THE CAR THIS CAME OUT OF if you do this.
The same junk yard also sold me the TCU, ECM and BUS modules also for $60 a piece (for a total for all 4 being $240). Now this isn't necessary as these three components can be flashed (in fact I have done this previously with another ECM prior to this for another repair). I did this however because it was so cheap and because it was basically just a plug and play operation at this point. Now I can sell my other parts on ebay and re-coup a few dollars. Or keep them in case one goes bad.

The mechanical aspect was pretty basic. The CV shaft are removed but are being replaced anyways. Engine and trans removed together. PTU was removed and then Engine and trans separated. The "flex plate" was bolted to the torque converter and then to the flywheel of the new trans. New PIT bolted on and then it was back in the car with the new CV shafts. Original rear drive-shaft is used. The new trans lines connect to the trans cooler. The rest is pretty self explanatory. The computer flashing I know relatively little about. I have to give big props to my mechanic with all that (Car Dr Jr in Schaumburg). Hopefully this helps anyone wanting to know and saves you a few steps that I went wrong on. Anything else you guys want to know I'll try to answer what I can. So far so good though and I'm really happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
If you want FDII gearing you'll need a FDII rear end, not sure on the programming though, honestly its an awful lot of work for a marginal improvement in performance
I was actually talking about putting a 6AT in an FDII, in which case you'd already have the FDII rear end, but would need to change the differential gears in the 6AT to match.

I'm not sure if the OP has a FWD or a 4x4, but if it's a 4x4 CVT then the rear end would have to be re-geared or swapped with the one that came from a 6AT.
This is another huge reason I wanted to post on here. For all you guys' input and knowledge..... I looked and looked and couldn't find that it was any different between the two. Even when looking up the rear differential it gave the same part number for both CVT and 6AT. I seem to be doing ok but if you have any info on this please let me know. I don't want to ruin anything by running the wrong rear end
 

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This is another huge reason I wanted to post on here. For all you guys' input and knowledge..... I looked and looked and couldn't find that it was any different between the two. Even when looking up the rear differential it gave the same part number for both CVT and 6AT. I seem to be doing ok but if you have any info on this please let me know. I don't want to ruin anything by running the wrong rear end
That's interesting because IIRC the CVT FDI was 14:1 final drive, the 5M was 15:1, the 6AT FD1 was 17:1 and the FDII was 19:1
 

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DangerAaron: AutoNews said that for 2018 Honda dropped the v6 option for the Accord for a 4 cyl only engine. With that and the Civic it must be close to 500,000. CVT's per year. Volume will be the driving force for price and reliability I believe. As I said before, this is a BIG commitment for Honda.
 

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That's interesting because IIRC the CVT FDI was 14:1 final drive, the 5M was 15:1, the 6AT FD1 was 17:1 and the FDII was 19:1
Rock auto shows the same differential (MOPAR part#3501a115) for both the 6AT, FDi CVT, and 355 Manual trans. (Rock Auto price: $1,098.89)
The FDii Diferential shows MOPAR part #3501a058 and is priced at $1,612.89 on Rock Auto.....
 

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Rock auto shows the same differential (MOPAR part#3501a115) for both the 6AT, FDi CVT, and 355 Manual trans. (Rock Auto price: $1,098.89)
The FDii Diferential shows MOPAR part #3501a058 and is priced at $1,612.89 on Rock Auto.....
Guess that settles it.
 

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DangerAaron: AutoNews said that for 2018 Honda dropped the v6 option for the Accord for a 4 cyl only engine. With that and the Civic it must be close to 500,000. CVT's per year. Volume will be the driving force for price and reliability I believe. As I said before, this is a BIG commitment for Honda.
This is correct. For 2018 Honda dropped the V6 option on the Accord. But, 2018 is not the first year they have used the CVT in any of these vehicles. Honda started using them in 2014 and made the shift to using them exclusively in their small 4 cylinder econo boxes in 2015. During that time even they didn't dare hook one to a V6 or even attempt to use one in a larger vehicle like a ridgline, odyssey, or pilot. They are over-stressing their CVT with the type R civic and owners are complaining like crazy. Their replacement for the accord V6 is a 2.0 turbo four and if we're betting my money is that their forums will be filled with CVT complaints in no time. Just like these forums, nissan forums, and any other car related forum that deals with CVT equipped vehicles.

Also, I'm thinking your numbers are low..... Honda sold 322,000 accords in 2017. All of these models together represents over a million units easy.... That's a lot of recalls, and trans replacements on the horizon.......
 

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Guess that settles it.
At least as far as you trust Rock Auto's parts information database.....I doubt it would be the first time they were wrong. But at least it's something that says the differentials are the same....
 

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A FDII differential is a different part number because it has a 8:125 Gear Ratio, the non FDII Diffs with the CDT were 4:12 (or close to it) and the 6 speeds were 6:XX
 
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