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Looking to buy a gallon of coolant to have on hand. After searching this forum and others it looks like "OAT" coolant (purple that looks pink) is what I should get. Is this so and what brands are available?
 

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While many will say you can use any OAT brand/color that states it is qualified to meet Mopar spec, to be safe, I ordered a couple jugs of ‎68163848AB Mopar Concentrate from Rock recently. Can also find on Amazon and others. Yes, you can save a few $$$ getting aftermarket brands, but OAT is a real PITA if you mix the wrong type, or don't completely flush every bit of old formula. For me, the few extra $$ not worth the crap-shoot. One other guy on here did mix the wrong stuff (HOAT vs OAT) on a 2015, and ruined the motor. Now you're looking at new engine, radiator, hoses, heater core, etc. Whatever you OAT you decide to go with, be sure to grab a few jugs of distilled water.
 

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2014 Sport 4X4 FD2 Off-road, Falken Wildpeak A/T, All weather & convienance group, EVIC, ATC, Hitch
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I replaced the coolant in my '14 last year with Prestone. Right on the bottle it says OAT for Jeep.
 

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I have an unfounded uneasiness of using alternative OAT coolants that contains 2EHA. The MOPAR coolant does not contain it while most OAT equivalent coolants do. 2EHA is the plasticizer that allegedly contributed to the catastrophic GM engine problems years ago. Modern engines are supposed to have gaskets, sealants, and plastic parts that are 2EHA tolerant.

I admit that it is probably an unfounded fear based on decades old bad experiences. We all have biases that are tough to let go. On the other hand, I have no problem using "approved for SP4-M" non licensed transmission fluid. Go figure. The MOPAR coolant cost only about 30% more than generic products. SP4-M is about 300 - 400% more than "equivalent" products.
 

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I have an unfounded uneasiness of using alternative OAT coolants that contains 2EHA. The MOPAR coolant does not contain it while most OAT equivalent coolants do. 2EHA is the plasticizer that allegedly contributed to the catastrophic GM engine problems years ago. Modern engines are supposed to have gaskets, sealants, and plastic parts that are 2EHA tolerant.

I admit that it is probably an unfounded fear based on decades old bad experiences. We all have biases that are tough to let go. On the other hand, I have no problem using "approved for SP4-M" non licensed transmission fluid. Go figure. The MOPAR coolant cost only about 30% more than generic products. SP4-M is about 300 - 400% more than "equivalent" products.
Agree. Why take a several thousand $ gamble trying to save a few $? You MIGHT be ok with certain brands of aftermarket stuff that says "compatible" to mix & match, but maybe NOT. If you do gamble, be sure to completely flush all remnants of stuff currently in there, then start fresh with the aftermarket & distilled water. Especially true for those who have bought a used vehicle and are not sure what the previous owner put in there, or if it was ever changed.

For as infrequent as you need to flush/change coolant, it just isn't worth rolling the dice for me. Other fluids like motor oil, DOT3 brake fluid, power steering, etc., are not as critical, as long as you use the CORRECT compatible fluid. No need to buy OEM for those.
 
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