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Clutch pressure gone - Help requested please!

Thank you for you reply - this didn't appear to work so have taken off the clutch master cylinder - which appears to be function ok. When we depress the clutch pedal we can see no movement of the ball ended rod which is visible where we have taken the master cylinder off it does not appear to be moving in or out to operate the clutch master cylinder surely we should see this move in and out or does this indicate a problem in this unit? Thanks
 

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You should definitely see that pushrod move when you depress the clutch pedal. looking at the FSM drawings, and reading the procedure, that push rod is supposed to stay with the clutch master cylinder (step 5). I would check if the clip/socket that attaches to the clutch pedal has broken or disconnected.

Here's the procedure:
REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly (1).
3. Disconnect battery negative cable (2).
4. Remove lower instrument panel bezel.
5. Disconnect the pushrod (3) at the clutch pedal.
6. Disconnect hydraulic supply tube at clutch master cylinder by pulling retaining clip (5) then pulling out on tube. To completely drain clutch master cylinder and tubing, remove brake master cylinder cap band drain fluid into suitable container.
7. Disconnect clutch master cylinder supply line from brake master cylinder reservoir (1). Cap off or collect fluid spillage from reservoir port.
CAUTION: Use care when removing clutch master cylinder from engine compartment. Aggressive handling can result in a damaged hydraulic tube and improper clutch release operation upon reassembly.

CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any painted surfaces, wash it off immediately with water.

8. Remove master cylinder assembly (1) from mounting position by turning 1/4 turn and carefully work hydraulic pipe from out of left rail retainer and engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Just to conclude the problem to this original thread was the brake master cylinder. It was difficult to believe as my original problem was no pressure in the clutch pedal and the brakes worked fine. After a couple of days sitting though the brake pedal also had no pressure. The clutch master cylinder, as posted earlier in this thread would seem a very simple connector and not really too much to it to go wrong in my opinion. The brake master cylinder though is basically a syringe forcing fluid round the system and on mine I had fluid evident where is shouldn't have been able to get to so obviously had a seal leak. Replaced this and bled both brakes then clutch and all was good.
I hope this helps someone else out there, I hate it when someone asks advice and time off other people then doesn't bother to post the cure.
 

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No Clutch Pressure Update

Thank you for your feedback - unfortunately I have not been able to get the time to progress the issue I am hoping to get some time off this week to get on with it. I hope you won't mind but I may be back for more assistance then.
 

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Just to conclude the problem to this original thread was the brake master cylinder. It was difficult to believe as my original problem was no pressure in the clutch pedal and the brakes worked fine. After a couple of days sitting though the brake pedal also had no pressure. The clutch master cylinder, as posted earlier in this thread would seem a very simple connector and not really too much to it to go wrong in my opinion. The brake master cylinder though is basically a syringe forcing fluid round the system and on mine I had fluid evident where is shouldn't have been able to get to so obviously had a seal leak. Replaced this and bled both brakes then clutch and all was good.
I hope this helps someone else out there, I hate it when someone asks advice and time off other people then doesn't bother to post the cure.
We are experiencing the same problem, had the clutch master cylinder replaced three days ago (very soft clutch, no fluid loss, returned to normal when pumped) but the clutch issue is back 100 miles later and the brakes are feeling worse. Would the brake master cylinder cause any problems to the clutch? They share the same reservoir but I thought the two systems would be independent?
 

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Compass Clutch failed

I have a Jeep Compass 2008 CRD 2.0 and this thread has been very helpful as I had a similar experience - clutch working fine one day and pedal to the floor with no resistance the next day. What could be slightly different however I could not see any brake fluid on the inside of car, but a small pool of fluid under the car. So I assumed a rat chewed the hydraulic hose to the cutch slave (we have voracious rats the size of cats which are native to the rainforest - a frequent occurence is for them to damage cars here) - so I got under the car to find the hydraulic lines and can't see a thing - I don't know how anyone could service this section with out dismantling the whole car (i.e. pull engine out) and I am heartened to hear that it is possible to blead the clutch line on a patriot so I am hoping that it is also possible in a compass - does anyone have diagrams and or instructions of how to do it for a compass?
 

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some tests

Well after the previous post, and looking at several drawings on this forum, I removed air cleaner etc and traced the path from clutch master cylinder to the bleed screw on the bell housing. I decided to bleed the clutch cct and flushed about 100mls of fluid through the system, but on retrying the clutch, there was no difference.

So my thoughts are that gravity and pumping the clutch pedal did not exclude the air, or that the master cylinder is at fault as I would have expected that once bleeding the cct reconnecting everything would result in a leak in the slave cylinder area and that fluid level in the reservoir would drop as I pump the clutch pedal - none of this happened so I would again think blame is the master cylinder is not pumping - Am I missing something?

Again my car is immobile in my carport and can't get a mechanic to visit to get it looked at, and would like to sort this out myself rather than booking and paying for a towtruck to take it to unknown service facilities (i.e. I have no trust in any company in this area to do a lasting repair and to charge a fair and reasonable price)
 

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Compass Clutch failed

I have a Jeep Compass 2008 CRD 2.0 and this thread has been very helpful as I had a similar experience - clutch working fine one day and pedal to the floor with no resistance the next day. What could be slightly different however I could not see any brake fluid on the inside of car, but a small pool of fluid under the car. So I assumed a rat chewed the hydraulic hose to the cutch slave (we have voracious rats the size of cats which are native to the rainforest - a frequent occurence is for them to damage cars here) - so I got under the car to find the hydraulic lines and can't see a thing - I don't know how anyone could service this section with out dismantling the whole car (i.e. pull engine out) and I am heartened to hear that it is possible to blead the clutch line on a patriot so I am hoping that it is also possible in a compass - does anyone have diagrams and or instructions of how to do it for a compass?

I know my answer is way too late.
But I'm posting this for people like me that are reading this thread 4 years later and have found it very helpful and informative.

I have a 2010 jeep patriot 2.0 manual/5speed transmission and the slave cylinder is internal, inside the transmission, you will have to take out the transmission put in order to physically test. However, you can bleed it from outside.
You can't miss it is right on transmission housing, you will have to go under the car to bleed it.
 

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I know my answer is way too late.
But I'm posting this for people like me that are reading this thread 4 years later and have found it very helpful and informative.

I have a 2010 jeep patriot 2.0 manual/5speed transmission and the slave cylinder is internal, inside the transmission, you will have to take out the transmission in order to physically test it or check it. However, you can bleed it from outside.
You can't miss it is right on transmission housing, you will have to go under the car to bleed it.
 
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