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Again, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but is the valvaline 80w90 ok to use? I'm reading keep recommends a GL-5 oil and the valvaline meets the GL-4 spec. I found an AC delco 80w90 gear oil that meets the GL-5 spec. Should I go with that? Or what would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
 

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Again, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but is the valvaline 80w90 ok to use? I'm reading keep recommends a GL-5 oil and the valvaline meets the GL-4 spec. I found an AC delco 80w90 gear oil that meets the GL-5 spec. Should I go with that? Or what would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Jeep's specification is GL-5, why would you even consider GL-4? GL-5 is specified by Jeep for a reason. Using a lesser specification is asking for trouble.
 

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Again, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but is the valvaline 80w90 ok to use? I'm reading keep recommends a GL-5 oil and the valvaline meets the GL-4 spec. I found an AC delco 80w90 gear oil that meets the GL-5 spec. Should I go with that? Or what would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Any conventional GL5 80W90 will be fine. I used Kendall in my 2011 when I did the swap.
 

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Jeep's specification is GL-5, why would you even consider GL-4? GL-5 is specified by Jeep for a reason. Using a lesser specification is asking for trouble.
If you read through this whole thread, the OP used valvoline gl-4. Many other forum members used the same gl-4 gear oil when doing their swap. I was asking because my service manual calls for gl-5 and was wondering why some people went with a gl-4 gear oil.

I will be sticking with a gl-5 spec gear oil though, I guess valvoline is out.
 

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If you read through this whole thread, the OP used valvoline gl-4. Many other forum members used the same gl-4 gear oil when doing their swap. I was asking because my service manual calls for gl-5 and was wondering why some people went with a gl-4 gear oil.

I will be sticking with a gl-5 spec gear oil though, I guess valvoline is out.
You shouldn't use a GL4 rated oil if the mfg calls for a GL5. GL4 will not provide the same level of wear protection in extreme pressure areas. The GL# is based on the amount of extreme pressure additives the oil contains. Some oils are rated GL5 and also claim to meet the needs fo GL4 in some instances. I would use them for GL5 applications without fear but would look for a GL4 specific oil if that was the spec I needed vs using a GL5/GL4 multi purpose oil.

There are some metals( yellow metals like bronze )used in diffs and transmissions however that can be negatively effected by GL5 additives. In the case where GL4 was spec'd I would stick with that. IMO it is best to just use what the mfg calls for. It is still easy to get GL4 gear oil so if that is what was originally spec'd then use it. As said, there are GL5 dear oils that claim to work in some GL4 applications as well so people can try that if they wish in their GL4 application. There is no question however if the spec is GL5 you do not want to use a GL4 specific gear oil.

With all of that said, Valvoline Conventional 80W90 actually meets the requirements of GL5( and some GL4 applications ). It is GL5 rated so it is fine to use in your vehicle.

Product Site: ( note - it shows a bottle of 75W90 but it is for all weights in the line )
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/grease-gear-oil/high-performance-gear-oil

PDS:
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/high_performance_gear.pdf
 

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Great info, thank you for sharing! I read the spec of GL-4 from the Amazon ordering page for valvoline, that's what raised the question. Thank you for clearing it up, valvoline it is!
 

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Great info, thank you for sharing! I read the spec of GL-4 from the Amazon ordering page for valvoline, that's what raised the question. Thank you for clearing it up, valvoline it is!
You don't have to use the Valvoline. It is a good choice but it is not anything special. 80W90 conventional gear oil is old school stuff and is about a basic as it gets. Use any name brand GL5 rated 80W90 you can grab locally and you will be fine. No need to order it. Your local WalMart should have the Valvoline if that is what you want to use.
 

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I did the drain and refill for both fluids yesterday. These instructions were great, thank you OP! Also, I had the 10mm hex bolt for BOTH drain plugs. I drain both fluids and ended up with about 1 quart total, however when I refilled I used a whole 1quart bottle plus about 8 ounces from the 2nd bottle. Can these be overfilled? Or could mine have just been low? I have just over 78k on the original fluids.
 

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A couple of the pics on the first page of this thread aren't loading anymore. Any chance they could be re=posted? I wanted to see what this 90deg adapter is all about. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
120k Service

Well, I'm about to do the 120k mile change on the RDU and PTU today. Funny, I completely forgot about needing a 90 deg. fitting for the end of my fluid pump, so I'll make sure I pick one up. Having the stus coils on my ride helps make this change even easier, no jacking required today! :grin2:
 

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Resurrecting this old post...I can no longer see the photos, have they been deleted?

120k Service

Well, I'm about to do the 120k mile change on the RDU and PTU today. Funny, I completely forgot about needing a 90 deg. fitting for the end of my fluid pump, so I'll make sure I pick one up. Having the stus coils on my ride helps make this change even easier, no jacking required today! :grin2:
 

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Resurrecting this old post...I can no longer see the photos, have they been deleted?
Nope, all photos from the OP are still there and working.
 

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Hello everyone, I finally got around to changing my RDU and PTU fluid and I even managed to snap a few cell phone camera pics while doing it. Not the best photos as they are from my cell phone, but I think they'll do.

What you'll need:
1. To lift the vehicle enough to get under it and work on it and have it sit fairly level.
2. 10 mm socket and screwdriver to remove plastic splash shield (not sure what's needed for the FDII metal skid plate).
3. 24 mm socket/wrench for PTU drain plug. * Note: Some model years may have a 10mm allen plug*
4. 17 mm socket/wrench for PTU fill plug.
5. 10 mm allen head/hex head socket/wrench for RDU drain plug.
6. 24 mm wrench for RDU fill plug (very limited space so must be a wrench, I used a nice big adjustable as the plugs were not super tight).
7. Medium sized flat blade screw driver for splash shield pop rivets.
8. About 3 qts. of 80W90 gear lube, a can of carb or brake cleaner.
9. A gear lube pump (space is limited for just pouring a quart sized container) and a 90 deg hose fitting for the pump tube.
10. A drain pan, some rags and a good 2 hours to complete everything and clean up.

To start, I drove the Jeep to the auto parts store to get my supplies. This also served the purpose of heating up the fluids to make them drain quicker. I lifted the vehicle in a level spot and removed the front/bottom splash shield. There are 6 10mm bolts (3 in the front, 3 in the back) and 4 plastic pop rivets (two on each side where the shield wraps up into each wheel well).



NOTE: Whenever draining fluids, always start by loosening the FILL plug first. If for some reason you can't get it out, you can still drive it somewhere to have the plug removed as the unit is still full of fluid.

Also, please be careful under the vehicle as some of the engine components may be quite hot!

Here's a view of the PTU unit from underneath


Position a drain pan under the PTU unit then loosen and remove the fill plug using the 17mm ratchet/socket or wrench.



Using the 24mm tool, loosen the drain plug then very carefully start slowly removing the plug. Wear gloves as depending on how much driving you've done, the fluid could be quite hot. Have a rag handy as well and double check your drain pan position! Once you have it down to the last thread you'll start to see some fluid leak out past the plug. Quickly spin and pull away to let the fluid drain.


Inspect and clean the drain plug. These are magnetic plugs so you'll likely see some small metal shavings and black gunk (assembly grease) around the magnet. For the first fluid change, it's not uncommon to see a few metal slivers on the magnet. These are likely some minor shavings from initial machining and break-in when new. Worry about them if you find more on the second change. I used some carb cleaner to spray off and clean the plug into the drain pan while the fluid continued to drip out of the PTU.



Install the drain plug and tighten to 24 ft. lbs (32 Nm). All of the plugs get tightened to this spec. This is not very tight by the way, so even if you don't have a torque wrench, it's equal to hanging a 24 lb weight on the wrench 1 foot out from the plug.

Break out the gear lube pump and some gear lube and start filling the PTU unit through the fill hole. I had a small amount of fluid run out very early in to filling the unit so go slow and give the fluid time to go in. This is where you'll want one of your rags to wipe everything dry every now and then and continue filling. As I continued to slowly fill the PTU, a few drips would slowly roll out so I just kept wiping it dry. You'll know you're full when the fluid runs out very quickly just as you pump it in. Quickly pop the fill plug back in and tighten to spec (above). Wipe up any spilled fluid.

The RDU is pretty much the same as the PTU but there is limited space between the back of the RDU unit and the rear sub-frame. You must use a wrench on the fill plug and I also had to put a 90 deg. adapter onto the gear lube pump tube to get it in there and fill it (Ok, it's actually a T-fitting in the pic with a plug/cap on the one end, but it's what I had laying around). I bought the gallon jug as I'm also going to change the front and rear diff fluids on the wifes GMC Sonoma. If you get the gallon jug though you'll have plenty for the next change @ 120k miles.


Here I'm pointing at the RDU fill plug, it's a tad cramped around it. Crack it loose and remove it.


As in the front, loosen and remove the rear drain plug. This one faces back (like the oil drain plug) so position the drain pan accordingly. It will flow out towards the rear of the jeep so be ready to move the pan to catch it! And again, watch for HOT fluid


Just bored waiting for it to finish draining...man, it's hot today...and this pavement is scorching my back.


Once again clean the drain plug and install. Tighten to spec (above).

Pump in the gear lube through the fill hole. I didn't have any premature drips when filling the rear but I still took it slow and steady. Once a steady stream starts running out, pop in the fill plug and tighten it up. Wipe up any mess/drips/runs.

I took the jeep for a quick spin around a few blocks with the 4x4 engaged to make sure the new fluid got all in where it needs to go then quickly double checked my levels again by pulling the FILL plugs. I slowly loosened and backed them out then watched for some fluid trying to escape. The front was fine, the rear took one more pump of fluid. Re-tighten them back up and we're almost done!

Put the splash shield back on and put away your tools and clean up. Time for a cold one! Whilst enjoying your frosty beverage of choice, break out the Jeep Maintenance booklet and record the date/mileage/receipt number, etc.
Great instructions. Had recently changed both of these units fluids in my 2016 Patriot.
 

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Great post! Used it as my guide last night. I would only add , do not freak out if oil comes pouring out of the PTU fill plug when you first take it out. Mine was the first time changing them, so maybe 175000 miles may have had something to do with it. Id also suggest getting new crush washers at the ready just incase they are a bit worn. Thanks Todde702!
 
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