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I maintain my mom's 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.0L CVT. It has about 59,500 miles on it. My grandmother bought it new 4 years ago, so I know the service history.

For now, I'd like to just do a drain and refill. In the future, I'll replace the filter. It has a drain plug right?

I know people use computers to check the fluid level, but I can measure the fluid amount that came out, AND use the engine dipstick to check the before and after level. As long as it's the same, I don't see a problem.

My question is, how much will come out roughly during a drain and refill? I'd just like to know whether I should pick up 2 quarts or 10 quarts of CVT fluid.
 

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The dreaded CVT fluid change

I maintain my mom's 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.0L CVT. It has about 59,500 miles on it. My grandmother bought it new 4 years ago, so I know the service history.

For now, I'd like to just do a drain and refill. In the future, I'll replace the filter. It has a drain plug right?

I know people use computers to check the fluid level, but I can measure the fluid amount that came out, AND use the engine dipstick to check the before and after level. As long as it's the same, I don't see a problem.

My question is, how much will come out roughly during a drain and refill? I'd just like to know whether I should pick up 2 quarts or 10 quarts of CVT fluid.
If you go to youtube, there is a Nissan with the same pan and tranny being changed via drain plug. Seems like one gets about 5 or 6 quarts in that manner. I agree with you on the technique, if all the fluid new and old are at the same temperature. The main question is, will it help? I start to think that the CVT is designed to fail, and fluid changes may be useless. Especially don't do it if any warranty still on. That's the cat's meow for a dealer to say sorry to a warranty repair on a failed tranny.
 

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There is no drain plug, the pan will have to be dropped. There is a filter in there you should change also.
About 6 quarts will be in the pan...measure it and refill the same amount.
Also use a dipstick to check the level before you drain it, and make sure it goes back to that level afterward...at the same temp.

I and others used Valvoline CVT fluid from Autozone at $9 a quart with no problems.
It's not like a total replacement of fluid, but it should certainly be better than doing nothing.

Good Luck!
 

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When I changed mine, I did the measure and refill amount drained method. It's really no different than a conventional trans service.
 

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I maintain my mom's 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.0L CVT. It has about 59,500 miles on it. My grandmother bought it new 4 years ago, so I know the service history.

For now, I'd like to just do a drain and refill. In the future, I'll replace the filter. It has a drain plug right?

I know people use computers to check the fluid level, but I can measure the fluid amount that came out, AND use the engine dipstick to check the before and after level. As long as it's the same, I don't see a problem.

My question is, how much will come out roughly during a drain and refill? I'd just like to know whether I should pick up 2 quarts or 10 quarts of CVT fluid.
You can get a fluid pump that runs off your battery and pump out the old fluid and replace it but the downside to that is you won't be changing the filter. Thinking about the pump method myself as it will be much easer and I only have 85K on my 08 right now.
 

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I have a '13 2.0L CVT 2wd pat at 94k miles. I just bought the dipstick but wont be buying a scan tool to verify temperature. I read Griff's previous posts in other threads and noticed you just verify you are reading at 35mm at operating temperature since 35mm is good within the entire range of Dorman's Chart B. Do you know how much fluid being added corresponds to the dip stick level? Is like half a quart give like 5mm in height on the dip stick? Or is maybe inserting a thermocouple after getting a measurement on the dipstick a better idea? This is my wife's car and every time I drive it I notice it makes a loud whining sound when going over 2500 RPM at 65mph on the highway, which I assume is this fluid foaming up. It has had the transmission overheat light come on last summer when driving and the whine was extremely loud with little power, it went to limp mode. All winter it has given no issues with this, though coming into summer I feel I need this fluid changed sooner rather than later. Do you think its a matter of having low fluid? Or is it that the fluid properties have broken down significantly where it needs a full replacement? I assume my '13 doesn't fall under a lifetime powertrain warranty? I'm a little hesitant doing this fluid change with no scan tool. If I do it, I would just measure the amount drained and add back in.
 

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I have a '13 2.0L CVT 2wd pat at 94k miles. I just bought the dipstick but wont be buying a scan tool to verify temperature. I read Griff's previous posts in other threads and noticed you just verify you are reading at 35mm at operating temperature since 35mm is good within the entire range of Dorman's Chart B. Do you know how much fluid being added corresponds to the dip stick level? Is like half a quart give like 5mm in height on the dip stick? Or is maybe inserting a thermocouple after getting a measurement on the dipstick a better idea? This is my wife's car and every time I drive it I notice it makes a loud whining sound when going over 2500 RPM at 65mph on the highway, which I assume is this fluid foaming up. It has had the transmission overheat light come on last summer when driving and the whine was extremely loud with little power, it went to limp mode. All winter it has given no issues with this, though coming into summer I feel I need this fluid changed sooner rather than later. Do you think its a matter of having low fluid? Or is it that the fluid properties have broken down significantly where it needs a full replacement? I assume my '13 doesn't fall under a lifetime powertrain warranty? I'm a little hesitant doing this fluid change with no scan tool. If I do it, I would just measure the amount drained and add back in.
At 94k the fluid is way past due to be changed. There are also two filters that need attention as well; the trans pan strainer and the cooler return filter. Do these ASAP.

The 2013's didn't come with Lifetime warranty. so unless you purchased it separately you won't have it.

After the fluid/filter change, if on hot days the whining / limp mode is still an issue you may need to install another transmission cooler in-line with the factory cooler to help keep the temp down.
 

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At 94k the fluid is way past due to be changed. There are also two filters that need attention as well; the trans pan strainer and the cooler return filter. Do these ASAP.

The 2013's didn't come with Lifetime warranty. so unless you purchased it separately you won't have it.

After the fluid/filter change, if on hot days the whining / limp mode is still an issue you may need to install another transmission cooler in-line with the factory cooler to help keep the temp down.
So i know the trans pan strainer (ATP B235 which comes with gasket) but i have no idea what the cooler return filter is. Could you give me a link via amazon and how to change? Also is the method of putting in the same amount of fluid that came out work ok? Not sure how ill be able to use the chart without knowing temp.
 

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Got an appointment to get mine changed thursday. They were looking at me like I had grown an extra feature on my face after their computer told them it has a 120k mile service interval, but I have welding training starting in two weeks and I can't afford to miss any of it - better safe than sorry. It has over 68k on it so I've been on a maintenance spree, having done plugs and oil in the past week.

You're a bit braver than I am to do this yourself, haha! :)
 

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Got an appointment to get mine changed thursday. They were looking at me like I had grown an extra feature on my face after their computer told them it has a 120k mile service interval, but I have welding training starting in two weeks and I can't afford to miss any of it - better safe than sorry. It has over 68k on it so I've been on a maintenance spree, having done plugs and oil in the past week.

You're a bit braver than I am to do this yourself, haha! :)
So I called a local Jeep Dealer (Paul Bailey's in Rhode Island) and they said that the CVT is not a serviceable part. I said why does the owners manual say change the fluid and filter at 120k miles and she could not answer me. She said that they offer a fluid flush in which the pan is not taken off but that was it (is that even possible?). She said around 100k miles if you take the pan off you'll disturb the transmission in how the metal shavings have settled and said you'll develop newer problems if you take it off and service it. I'm taking what she said with a grain of salt and going to assess my fluid level when I get the dipstick I ordered. She said CVT transmissions are only replaced when they have issues. This is the same response I've gotten at multiple Jeep Dealers in the Rhode Island area.

Has anyone taken the pan off and refilled near 100k miles and have had any issues afterwards? I've done almost all the maintenance on this car and this fluid change is becoming a massive headache for me. So many people are deterring me away from just changing it while no professional will do the work. I'm 99% confident this whining sound is only going to get worse this summer if I do nothing...
 

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So I called a local Jeep Dealer (Paul Bailey's in Rhode Island) and they said that the CVT is not a serviceable part. I said why does the owners manual say change the fluid and filter at 120k miles and she could not answer me. She said that they offer a fluid flush in which the pan is not taken off but that was it (is that even possible?). She said around 100k miles if you take the pan off you'll disturb the transmission in how the metal shavings have settled and said you'll develop newer problems if you take it off and service it. I'm taking what she said with a grain of salt and going to assess my fluid level when I get the dipstick I ordered. She said CVT transmissions are only replaced when they have issues. This is the same response I've gotten at multiple Jeep Dealers in the Rhode Island area.

Has anyone taken the pan off and refilled near 100k miles and have had any issues afterwards? I've done almost all the maintenance on this car and this fluid change is becoming a massive headache for me. So many people are deterring me away from just changing it while no professional will do the work. I'm 99% confident this whining sound is only going to get worse this summer if I do nothing...
That "dealer" is full of it.

My suggestion: find another shop.

I took the pan off of mine at 72k, changed fluid and filter and had nothing but improvement.
 

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That "dealer" is full of it.

My suggestion: find another shop.

I took the pan off of mine at 72k, changed fluid and filter and had nothing but improvement.
did you refill the exact amount that came out? Was it around 7 to 8 quarts? Even watching videos on how to change it people used brake parts cleaner to get rid of the metal shavings that are caught by the magnets.
 

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did you refill the exact amount that came out? Was it around 7 to 8 quarts? Even watching videos on how to change it people used brake parts cleaner to get rid of the metal shavings that are caught by the magnets.
No, I didn't measure what came out. I measured how much was in it before I drained it and put it back to just under that level, knowing that I could add more if needed.

I didn't need to use brake cleaner on the magnets, I just wiped them clean.

I'll borrow from another members post a couple of years ago:

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/1522449-post15.html

"Update, as a aircraft mechanic and former ASE certified mechanic I will tell you everything above is typical internet garbage from those who post nonsense about things they do not understand. Napa has the dipstick 605-1677 @ under $25. It comes with a chart as the fluid level is temp dependent. They also have the filter and gasket NAPA Part #1-5510. It is straight forward transmission filter change, be sure to wipe out pan and clean the 2 magnets thoroughly. Valvoline makes a Full synthetic CVT fluid that is CVTF4 chrysler compatible. Part #804751. I recommend changing before 100K miles as it already dirty (very black) by then and then every 50K miles as much fluid remains in trans during drain. The owners manual recommends 60K for severe duty and 120K miles normal service. This applies to 2007-2011 Patriot with CVT transmission. The fluid required will depend on how hot trans was when drained and how long it drained. Most require under 7qts but I would have a 8th around just in case. Add 5qts and then check, add, check until in middle of zone. Any dipstick that touches the bottom will also do as it is measured in millimeters and one could scribe the back of the oil dipstick so you always have it with you. Measured from bottom of stick 32mm works from 50F to 170 F. It would be the high mark @ 50F and the low @ 170F. 28mm to 36mm works from 70F to 125F trans fluid temp with low for 70F and high for 125F. I posted more details here: What brand CVTF+4 Transmission Fluid CAN you use in 09' Patriot? "

Full thread here:
http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/15...smission-fluid-filter-change.html#post1522449
 

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It's my understanding that Jeep dealerships (usually) don't have anyone who actually deals with transmission issues or anything else that is labor intensive or specialized, so they either don't do it or they outsource it to nearby shops. There's definitely a limit to what they will/won't do with any vehicle brought to them. I know the dealership that I bought mine from - the same one that told me to go **** myself with a pineapple when I tried to make an appointment bring my Liberty in for the notorious mandated trailer hitch over the gas tank install - has a separate service shop in another county for anything beyond a quick oil change or inspection and most local Jeepers will tell you to take your vehicle to a specific shop - staffed with former Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep mechanics - that specializes in Jeep vehicles, in addition to trucks and SUVs.
 

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Yeah, I get what you're saying. But changing CVT fluid on a Patriot isn't brain surgery, it's just a normal pan drop fluid change. The trans cooler filter is a little more involved; you have to take out the battery and battery tray, then remove the exchanger or plate "thingy" to get to the little paper filter. But seriously, if a bunch of us on here can do it I'm sure one of their ASE certified mechanics can handle it too.

And even if they can't, they don't have to hand the customer a line of b.s., just say "we don't do that here, but we have someone we work with who does", and give them the referral. Not that difficult.
 

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Yeah, I get what you're saying. But changing CVT fluid on a Patriot isn't brain surgery, it's just a normal pan drop fluid change. The trans cooler filter is a little more involved; you have to take out the battery and battery tray, then remove the exchanger or plate "thingy" to get to the little paper filter. But seriously, if a bunch of us on here can do it I'm sure one of their ASE certified mechanics can handle it too.

And even if they can't, they don't have to hand the customer a line of b.s., just say "we don't do that here, but we have someone we work with who does", and give them the referral. Not that difficult.
So i measured the fluid height with the dipstick, the car ran at idle in park, i shifted through the gears a few times, put the car back in park and left it running. I got 70mm. Its way higher than i expected it to be.. am i suppose to have the car in Drive when measuring?? I was expecting to see 50mm or less based on chart B from Foreman
 

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So i measured the fluid height with the dipstick, the car ran at idle in park, i shifted through the gears a few times, put the car back in park and left it running. I got 70mm. Its way higher than i expected it to be.. am i suppose to have the car in Drive when measuring?? I was expecting to see 50mm or less based on chart B from Foreman
Uh, yeah 70mm is too high, as in off-the-chart too high. If it's really that high, I'm not surprised it whining. And no, you don't measure it with the car in drive, but even if you did I'd bet it's still too high.



FWIW, here's the procedure from the service manual:

3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position 9P9.
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil
Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil
level, repeat if necessary.
NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the
dipstick and using the height, the transmission temperature, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the
transmission oil level is correct.
8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap.
TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of MOPART CVT+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 7.0 L (14.8 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 8.1 L
(17.1 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - CVT/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) and adjust as required.
 

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So i measured the fluid height with the dipstick, the car ran at idle in park, i shifted through the gears a few times, put the car back in park and left it running. I got 70mm. Its way higher than i expected it to be.. am i suppose to have the car in Drive when measuring?? I was expecting to see 50mm or less based on chart B from Foreman
Uh, yeah 70mm is too high, as in off-the-chart too high. If it's really that high, I'm not surprised it whining. And no, you don't measure it with the car in drive, but even if you did I'd bet it's still too high.



FWIW, here's the procedure from the service manual:

3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position 9P9.
4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling
5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil
Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil
level, repeat if necessary.
NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the
dipstick and using the height, the transmission temperature, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the
transmission oil level is correct.
8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap.
TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3. Add following initial quantity of MOPART CVT+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 7.0 L (14.8 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
b. If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 8.1 L
(17.1 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - CVT/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) and adjust as required.
I dont understand why it would be at 70mm, i didnt force the dipstick down hard, it went down like half the distance of the dipstick and lightly hit the stop. Ive never added any fluid in the past or replaced any for the entire life of the car. I noticed when touching the transmission pan underneath it was scalding hot, maybe its above 300 degrees? Ill measure it this weekend and let it sit over night and measure it with the car off.
 

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I did bring the car last year to a jeep dealer after the trans over heated for the first time. I told them it happened and about the noise and they said all was fine and no problems. They almost made me pay $100 for nothing. Im wondering if they poured a quart in, thinking it would fix the issue. Ill try doing the flush myself, ill let you know how it goes, thanks for the in depth info on the change.
 
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