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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Found a set of springs for both sides at an AMCARpartsdealer here in Norway. 55 dollar but i guess beter expensive than not to get.
Curious how long it takes to get them, norwegian post sucks.
But i gotta fix wifes green Pat first anyway tomorrow. Found out how to adjust pushrod and bought a benchbleedkit for the mastercylinder as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Changed the masterbrakecylinder this evening and Todde your diagnose was probably right anyway. After benchbleeding the new mastercylinder and adjusting the pushrod i still had a pedal sinking to the floor. After bleeding the system thorougly the pedal became a lot better. The rear right brakecaliper was very difficult to bleed. I suspect a problem there and probably still a bit of air left there. Inside of the rotor was a bit rusty. I guess there is lack of pressure there.
Will look into the matter another day. Car is driveable again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Changed the bleederscrew rear right, was a not original mounted, size 7mm, all others on the car are 8mm. Now i could bleed it properly and brakepedal is hard again. Car brakes normal again.
This morning the brakelights were hanging again, even stayed on after leaving the car. had to press the brakepedal once to get them off. I have a new switch laying around so i will mount it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I opened the old brakelight-switch. There is no electronics inside just mecanical parts.
Its easy to put it back together like the new one. Just prie off the cover and press the rod in a bit and twist the little lever counterclockwise 45 degrees.Then mount the cover again and ready to install again.
You cant do it with the cover on.
I see absolutely no reason why that should not work.
They may be cheap in the USA but my new one costet me 45 bucks, freight included.
 

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2008 Jeep Patriot Sport
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Give the contacts a little emery or fine sandpaper love and you'll have a spare on hand!
 
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