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Just had the rear wheel bearings replaced in Oct. for the 2nd time by my local Jeep dealer, almost one year to the date. I asked the Service Mgr. what's the chance of getting 2 sets of defective tapered-roller bearings only one year apart? He just shook his head. I asked if there was a secret Fiat-Chrysler recall for a design or mfg. defect and he couldn't tell me.

I had a 1998 Cherokee that went 190,000 mi, before it died of electrical problems and it still had the original wheel bearings in the solid axles. Has anyone else experienced this?
Common. Lowest bidder = lowest quality. The mistake is using OEM again.
 

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Just had the rear wheel bearings replaced in Oct. for the 2nd time by my local Jeep dealer, almost one year to the date. I asked the Service Mgr. what's the chance of getting 2 sets of defective tapered-roller bearings only one year apart? He just shook his head. I asked if there was a secret Fiat-Chrysler recall for a design or mfg. defect and he couldn't tell me.

I had a 1998 Cherokee that went 190,000 mi, before it died of electrical problems and it still had the original wheel bearings in the solid axles. Has anyone else experienced this?
If it happens again replace them with Timken or SKF. Cheaper than Mopar and better quality in this case.
 

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Right rear has gone out on mine at 127,000 miles... I spent a few hours today trying to replace it but never could get the axle nut off. PB plaster, propane torch, electric impact gun and a breaker bar with about 5' of cheater bar on the end couldn't budge it.

Going to call a local shop on Monday and let them handle it.
 

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My 07 makes a ton of road noise ( just picked it up) its got 130k and I suspect the pass rear bearing is bad. I read something that the hub has to be pressed out, is that true? The photos on rock auto look like its got bolt tabs like any other new style hub/bearing assembly.

Its a 2007 4x4

Rock auto has them for such a good price I think I'll just replace both rears.

Moog sounds like the ones to go with, saw some posts about TIMKENs having to be replaced again within 30k

Thanks,
-Charles
 

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Moog does not manufacture wheel bearings, they are outsourced like all their other parts. I would stick with Timken, *** or SKF as they are quality bearing manufacturers for industry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
My 07 makes a ton of road noise ( just picked it up) its got 130k and I suspect the pass rear bearing is bad. I read something that the hub has to be pressed out, is that true? The photos on rock auto look like its got bolt tabs like any other new style hub/bearing assembly.
Yep, the rears are a bolt-on affair. The fronts have to be pressed though.
 

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R&R ing that axle from differential ??

Hi Todd,

Looking for some info on replacing those axles / half shafts from the differential... could you tell me what you found with yours?

Is the rear axle held in the differental by only the outer suspension parts or is there a "c" clip in the diff you need to remove first?

Or?

So little info to be found on these rear axle replacements...

Was only replacing the rear hubs but axles are so rusted into the splines I can't get them off and will now need to move on to new axles to get back on the road.

Thanks for anything you can tell me (everyone) about how the axles are held in the differential..

Best,
 

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Rear half-shafts pull right out. After you remove prop shaft and lower the rear differential.
 

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Hi Todd,

Looking for some info on replacing those axles / half shafts from the differential... could you tell me what you found with yours?

Is the rear axle held in the differental by only the outer suspension parts or is there a "c" clip in the diff you need to remove first?

Or?

So little info to be found on these rear axle replacements...

Was only replacing the rear hubs but axles are so rusted into the splines I can't get them off and will now need to move on to new axles to get back on the road.

Thanks for anything you can tell me (everyone) about how the axles are held in the differential..

Best,
I had to replace my rear passenger side axle last November on my 08 Compass with 80K on it when I was replacing the wheel bearing due to a bad wheel sensor ring. Also had to replace the caliper as it was also so rusted. I had a friend doing the work and he said everything was so rusted and he had a difficult time getting the axle nut off. When he did finally get the nut off, the threads were ruined. I was not able to find an aftermarket rear cv shaft and had to get one from the local dealership ($300).
 

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Hope you see that was a question not a statement

Rear half-shafts pull right out. After you remove prop shaft and lower the rear differential.
Just checking back for a reply and realized that my second question might sound like a statement rather than a question...

To clarify, I'm thinking dropping the differential down is only when leaving the suspension in place to make room to pull axle..

Thanks for any additional replies on this subject DJ
 

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I had to replace my rear passenger side axle last November on my 08 Compass with 80K on it when I was replacing the wheel bearing due to a bad wheel sensor ring. Also had to replace the caliper as it was also so rusted. I had a friend doing the work and he said everything was so rusted and he had a difficult time getting the axle nut off. When he did finally get the nut off, the threads were ruined. I was not able to find an aftermarket rear cv shaft and had to get one from the local dealership ($300).
Thanks for jumping in Sdsjeep, yes that is only reason I need to replace half shafts, the axle splines are so stuck in the hub splines that no amount of soaking, heat and puller pressure is breaking it loose.

Since tearing it down to this point it's the best time to replace rear struts, I will also replace trailing arm bushings and any others I find bad.

By the way, most parts supply houses at this time do not have REAR half shaft axles for the Patriot, listed but all out of stock... however, A1Cardone remanufactured axles were available from RockAuto at around $200 for both delivered. And that is with $54 of core charges

Best,
 

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A few part numbers for axle replacement

Didn't research for anything but our 2008 Patriot Limited Trail Rated 4WD so can't speak for others, could very well be the same but unknown by me.

A1Cardone Drivers side half shaft axle 60-3598

A1Cardone Passenger side half shaft axle 60-3599


One small but important item that is either not listed anywhere, or shown out of stock all the time is the REAR Axle nut with locking kit.
Axle nuts are one time use so important to have new ones.. locking parts and washers are rusted so bad they can't be used again.

For this Patriot, I found that the available FRONT spindle nut kit also fit the rear, although, nowhere did I find that stated.

These that fit, were M22 1.5 nuts with washers and lock cap, sold under the Dorman brand
part number 04983

These nuts are 32mm hex

Just to note also, based on my previous question above, about how the inner axle splines were to remove from differential.... These do have a loose type snap ring on the new axles.. Not one that need snap ring pliers or that needs to be removed, but the round kind that will compress itself with some pressure of pushing and pulling axle. (wow, did that make sense?)

I will attach photo if it will let me. (sorry, looks like I will need to upload
any photos to an online photo site that allows links)

If you are familiar with the ring on a 1/2" drive impact wrench you will know the type... can be annoying now and then when trying to remove sockets... hold socket on from dropping off, but has a mind of it's own over time.
I suspect removing the axle and replacing the axle could have the same effort required to get splines to slip together into the differential

I'm also a bit concerned about the old clip popping off inside the differential if you get too heavy handed with removal of axle.. I don't want these rings floating around in the rear end to cause trouble later.

Waiting for warm Spring weather to return to finish the work and will report back here if anything unusual is found. Taking photos along the way so hope to post all when finished and back on the road.

I have double checked my typing and part numbers used here, but I suggest you check them one more time before you order with them.
 

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Rear Axle nut kit 2008 4WD Limited with disc brakes

Anyone have a part number for the spindle nut retainer kit? Only ones I see on rockauto are for the front...
I realize this is a very old post requesting this info, but feel an answer is best added for anyone searching the problem.

For our `08 Patriot, I found that the available FRONT spindle nut kit also fit the rear, although, nowhere did I find that stated and no where did I find a listing for the rear nut and retainer

Can NOT say if all years are the same size but suspect they are.

These that fit, are M22 1.5 nuts with washers and lock cap, sold under the Dorman # 04983

These nuts are 32mm hex / socket size

Only difference found between these and the OEM rear nuts was that the new Dorman nut was 1/16" (2mm) wider/thicker
 

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Dorman nuts are slightly taller, I had to grind the locking cap down a bit to get the cotter pin inserted.
 

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Dorman Axle nut kit #04983

Dorman nuts are slightly taller, I had to grind the locking cap down a bit to get the cotter pin inserted.

Hello DJ, glad you returned...

Yup, as in my last line above, 1/16" difference... but at least that is the very smallest battle in the war to get these fixed :cool:

Also just to note, the Dorman kits I got have a cotter pin that is too large for the hole in the axle by itself.
No biggie unless someone does not have others and is counting on the kit etc.

Done beating on it for today, still trying to get the caliper bracket with backing plate off the old hub...

Heat and beat, heat and beat... spray and soak!
 

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backing plate won't come off of hub...

By any chance, has anyone had the problem of back plate being SEZiED to hub assembly? Application of heat/ sledge hammer and punch having no effect. So far the entire process was quick and easy, until I actually got the hub assembly out, WITH backing plate. ANY suggestions?
Just wanted to add to this thread on back plate being stuck on old hub for anyone searching for info in the future....

Had the same problem with our Patriot AWD with rear disks and just got the first one unstuck.

Already had the hub / axle / plate off the car so could have the hub flat on bench so I could get heat all around and solvent would stay put etc.

For anyone that has not been there yet, it's not the Ebrake backing plate that gets stuck on, the backing plate is part of the caliper mounting bracket joined by rivets and the shoe anchor pin so it does not come off there.

It sticks in the center hole of the heavy metal caliper bracket, the backing plate is just along for the ride.

On ours, it took about 5 heat cycles with PB Blaster in the seam after it's cool enough to not boil it away but still hot.... the solvent will find it's way between since the gap is wee bit wider because the bracket has expanded. A little light tapping on the bracket so it rings like a bell will cause the solvent to walk into the tight spot a bit each time.

No need to beat the backing plate until it is not usable, new ones are expensive. When you do apply force, use a good size flat punch and hammer, but keep the punch up against the hub where you are hitting on the strong caliper bracket behind it and not bending up the backing place on outer edges.

Keeping full photo log but will have to wait until Jeep is back on the road to get them posted here.

Best,
 

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Quick post about rear lateral toe links.. (I wish I had seen when searching the subject)

I ordered a pair of Dorman 521-642, fits left or right..

Now fighting to save the inner mounting bolt since it's the toe in adjuster, consists of bolt cam washer for threaded end, and special nut.

Of course the bolt is frozen into the sleeve insert of old link bushing... heat got nut off okay, but sleeve is harder to heat without burning rubber that's left... and of course drivers side is right under the rubber gas filler tube, not the place to get too much heat rising.
I have inserted metal sheeting and and old rotor above the link to sub frame mount so as to deflect as much flame as possible. Plus keeping an air hose handy to cool off the area just above every little bit.
Fire extinguisher close at hand..

Anyway, what I think everyone should be aware of is that the
Mevotech MS251006 Lateral Link
is a better choice to order, the main reason I say this is because I found out it comes with all hardware, bolt for outer end (into captured nut in trailing arm) AND it has the cam bolt setup so no need to waste time saving old one... just cut it out of there.

I did not order the Mevotech because Rock Auto did not show that it comes with the bolts... not in description and not in their photo of the product.
Other places do not even list the Mevotech number for a Patriot.

Now I have to get to the Jeep dealer to find the bolts if I can't save the old ones.
 

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Toe Link to sub frame mounting / cam adjusting bolt,
only found them at Jeep dealer...
2016 price $17.70 !

Eccentric washer for threaded end if you need it
$4.95

Special nut
4.00
 

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I just replaced the passenger rear hub bearing assembly on my 2012 Patriot yesterday since I also had a very rhythmic pounding coming from that tire when driving over 20 mph. I think the race itself might still have been alright but the hub itself was slightly bent I believe causing the noise. Sounds similar to the issue that Todde702 was having and his rundown on the job was also quite helpful although my experience went a little different than his I think with the repair itself.

First thing I did that I think helped quite a bit was for the week previous every day I would spray the different components that would be involved in the job using some kroil and free all oils. I would spray down the 4 bolts holding the hub bearing to the backing plate, the inner portion where the axle meets the hub, behind the hub and in between the parking brake shoes, and the area in front where the hub nut and hardware is located.

I am fortunate that my job has a good tool assortment as well as a large compressor with pro air tools. Getting the hub nut off was a piece of cake (32 mm socket needed). Getting the 4 hub bolts on the inside took a little finagling using different lengths of sockets and extensions but they also came out easily. The real pain in the neck was separating the hub bearing itself from the backing plate as once you take the 4 bolts out nothing is holding anything to the vehicle except the parking brake cable and the brake line. You can slide the upper slide pin out once you have the backing plate off and hang the whole thing from the strut spring out of the way. Unfortunately in my case as well as other cases I have read the backing plate and hub are fused together from rust and what not. Since they are both free it is hard to get leverage to separate the two and a slide hammer does little too help since the backing plate is not attached to anything and you are basically holding it with your feet and sliding the hammer just to break the hub free. I am not sure what exactly did the separating itself as I used the slide hammer, heated up the backing plate with a torch, used more penetrating oil and waited, and also reinserted the 4 bolts and pounded on the bolt heads with a deadblow hammer. Eventually I was able to get a small crack of separation on one of the corners which I would see through the mounting holes at which point was enough to get a flathead screwdriver in there and chisel it out. Working my way around the parts eventually separated.

Once I got everything off I cleaned and anti seized the crap out of the mating areas so if myself or anyone ever has to get this thing apart again they wont have to have a battle like I did. Reassembly was pretty easy and everything was done according to the specs in the repair manual. 181 ft lbs for the hub nut and 77 ft lbs for the hub bolts.

I agree with previous posts that the Dorman kit 04983 works with this setup and I also had to grind the nut down a little on a vise but it went on fine. The cotter pin also did not fit but they are cheap and since we have a stock at work I just used the next smaller size.

I ordered a Timken bearing HA590230 from Amazon $63 cheapest price on the web I could find. I ordered the Dorman 04983 hardware kit from Rockauto each kit was about $6. I ordered 2 just in case I ever have to do the other side. With shipping came out to about $15 also the cheapest on the web I could find.

Like I said earlier the biggest issue I had and you might also have is separating the backing plate from the hub but if you spray everything down in advance everything else should come out easily and eventually you should be able to separate the two parts with some patience and different methods. Good luck.
 
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