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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, looks like I'm going to be replacing my drivers side rear wheel bearing. I just ordered the Moog replacement part from Rockauto, along with a new halfshaft/spindle nut/retainer kit (my factory ones are very rusty). I'll take pictures when I do it and post up a little how-to. I don't expect it to be too difficult. Here's hoping the parts show up before the weekend.
 

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What makes you say its the bearing?
Reason I ask, is because a while ago.
I had a really bad rythmic grinding noise, thought it was my bearings, mechanic went in, tightend stuff up and problem went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know it's a bad bearing because when I turn right at speed (which will put more load on the left or driver side bearings), the noise gets very loud with a rhythmic pounding vibration coming from the rear. When I turn left the noise goes away almost completely with very little vibration. The noise has been growing slowly, I first thought it was just a bad tire from my $80 craigslist purchase. It always stayed a steady sound no matter which way I turned. But now it's very evident it's a rear wheel bearing.
 

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One way to test for a bad wheel bearing without removing the tire is too jack up the suspect wheel. Once it's on a jack stand, put one hand on the coil spring while spinning the tire. The bad bearing will transmit the noise into the spring any you will be able to feel it.
 

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I know it's a bad bearing because when I turn right at speed (which will put more load on the left or driver side bearings), the noise gets very loud with a rhythmic pounding vibration coming from the rear. When I turn left the noise goes away almost completely with very little vibration. The noise has been growing slowly, I first thought it was just a bad tire from my $80 craigslist purchase. It always stayed a steady sound no matter which way I turned. But now it's very evident it's a rear wheel bearing.
i had same symptoms,
i was convinced it was my bearings,
dont know what the problem was, but tightening everything up, problem went away,
just double check everything first
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, The weather took forever to cooperate with me and I finally got around to replacing the rear wheel bearing hub assembly. Over all not a bad job. I didn't have time for taking some photos though. But here are some tips:
TOOLS
14mm wrench/socket for one brake caliper bolt.
17mm socket for the four bearing retaining bolts.
34mm DEEP socket for axle shaft nut 1/2 drive w/ breaker bar.
Pliers/picks/screw drivers for the cotter pin.

1. The ABS sensor clip is a bit of a pain. I kept trying to hold out on the clip AND pull the sensor, but that's almost impossible due to the limited space. Instead if you take your time you can gently wiggle the sensor up and down with slight pressure and it will slide out from under the clip. No need to actually try to pull or hold the clip up. Not a lot of room but I was able to use both hands (sort of wrapped around the cv joint), and using my two pointer fingers get it moving. Just alternate pushing with each finger and it will pop up and out.

2. The axle shaft nut is tough and the retainer and cotter pin will be rusted. Spray it up and be prepared to work that cotter pin back and forth before it comes out. To break the axle nut loose (180ft lbs. of torque plus 5 years of rust), I had to pop the center cap off my wheel, put it back on, lower the jeep back on the ground and then jump up and down on the breaker bar with the jack handle as an extension. Remove the nut completely before you jack it back up.

3. Once everything was unbolted (Step 11 below), the rust around the outer barrel section of the bearing held it fast to the brake backing plate. The whole brake plate and all came loose from the trailing arm. I Tried to wire brush off as much as possible, but ultimately I had to beat it out with a small sledge to get it moving.

4. Before you reassemble, wipe the trailing arm and both sides of the brake backing plate off so they are nice and clean. You want all of these surfaces clean so the new bearing hub sits nice and flat on everything.

Here's the procedure from the FSM:
REMOVAL
1. Raise and support the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
2. Remove the wheel mounting nuts (3), then the tire and wheel assembly (1).
3. Remove the cotter pin (2) from the hub nut (3) on the end of the axle half shaft.
4. While a helper applies the brakes to keep the hub (1) from rotating, remove the hub nut (3) and washer (4) from the axle half shaft.
5. Tap the end of the half shaft inward, loosening it from the hub and bearing.
6. Remove the disc brake caliper (2) lower guide pin bolt (1).
CAUTION: When moving rear brake caliper upward, use extreme care not to damage or overextend the flex hose. Damage may occur.
7. Rotate the caliper upward hinging off the upper guide pin bolt. Rotate the caliper upward just enough to allow brake rotor removal. Hang the caliper assembly in this position using wire or a bungee cord.
8. Remove any clips (2) retaining the brake rotor (3) to the wheel mounting studs.
9. Slide the brake rotor (3) off the hub and bearing (1).
10. Unclip the wheel speed sensor head (1) from the retainer on the rear of the hub and bearing (2).
11. Remove the four bolts (1) securing the hub and bearing (2) to the trailing link.
12. Remove the hub and bearing.

INSTALLATION
1. Slide the hub and bearing over the axle half shaft and position it on the brake support plate and trailing link.
2. Install the four bolts (1) securing the hub and bearing (2) to the trailing link. Tighten the bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.).
3. Clip the wheel speed sensor head (1) (flat side to bearing rear) into the retainer on the rear of the hub and bearing (2).
4. Slide the brake rotor (3) over the parking brake shoes and onto the hub and bearing (1).
5. Rotate the disc brake caliper downward over the brake rotor and lower part of caliper adapter.
6. Install the disc brake caliper (2) lower guide pin bolt (1). Tighten the guide pin bolt to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.).
7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the half shaft outer C/V joint.
8. Install the washer (4) and hub nut (3) on the end of the half shaft and snug it.
9. While a helper applies the brakes to keep the hub (1) from rotating, tighten the hub nut (3) to 245 N·m (181 ft. lbs.).
10. Insert the cotter pin (2) through the notches in the nut and the hole in half shaft. If the notches in the nut do not line up with the hole in the half shaft, continue to tighten the nut until they do. Do not loosen the nut.
11. Wrap the cotter pin (2) ends tightly around the lock nut.
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly (1) (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION). Install and tighten the wheel mounting nuts (3) to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving it.
While I was under the back end, I took apart the rear sway bar bushings and greased them all up and changed the oil today too (the change oil message had turned on this week).

She rides nice and quite now with only the occasional creaking noise from the front sway bar bushings remaining.
 

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We had to both our front bearings replaced right after we bought our Jeep. But, after that, we had to get an alignment. One place refused to align because they said they had move the engine cradle. Another place said the same thing. About $250 job. Luckily I found an "old school" alignment man here in town, and he was to find a work around. Jeep drives straight as an arrow. All in specification. No cradle was touched. Just thought I would throw that out there in case someone has not had one done.
 

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just under 38,000 miles, wheel bearing number FIVE being replaced under warranty...that's two on the rear right and each of the other three. Plus they have replaced the front CV axles a brake caliper and the inhibitor switch on the tranny. UGH! Good luck with your bearing!
 

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just under 38,000 miles, wheel bearing number FIVE being replaced under warranty...that's two on the rear right and each of the other three. Plus they have replaced the front CV axles a brake caliper and the inhibitor switch on the tranny. UGH! Good luck with your bearing!
The OEM bearings are crap; i think you can attest to that from your experience. I've heard that Timken bearings are much better. I have a set ready to go onto my rig, just need the time to get it done.
 

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Well, looks like I'm going to be replacing my drivers side rear wheel bearing. I just ordered the Moog replacement part from Rockauto, along with a new halfshaft/spindle nut/retainer kit (my factory ones are very rusty). I'll take pictures when I do it and post up a little how-to. I don't expect it to be too difficult. Here's hoping the parts show up before the weekend.
Anyone have a part number for the spindle nut retainer kit? Only ones I see on rockauto are for the front...
 

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We had a right-rear wheel bearing go out just before the bumper to bumper expired. They covered it without question. It presented as a roaring sound that was present at all speeds and didn't go away with new tires. So, it happens on the FWD patriots too.
 

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Nice guide! Just did a rear replacement at 71K. Had to beat the hell out of the old one to get it through the backing plate. FYI the 2010 4WD uses a 32mm axle nut.
 

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How did you prevent backing plate from coming off with hub assembly? I've got the hub assembly off, but my backing plate is SEIZED on! Heat doesn't seem to be doing anything. Any suggestions?
 

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By any chance, has anyone had the problem of back plate being SEZiED to hub assembly? Application of heat/ sledge hammer and punch having no effect. So far the entire process was quick and easy, until I actually got the hub assembly out, WITH backing plate. ANY suggestions?
 

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By any chance, has anyone had the problem of back plate being SEZiED to hub assembly? Application of heat/ sledge hammer and punch having no effect. So far the entire process was quick and easy, until I actually got the hub assembly out, WITH backing plate. ANY suggestions?
You mean the actual splash shield? Generous amounts of liquid penetrant and a little heat. If they are that seized together from corrosion you might want to look at buying new splash shields from the dealer if you can't get them apart without damaging the shields. They run about $80 each from the dealer.
 

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2nd Set of Wheel Brgs

Just had the rear wheel bearings replaced in Oct. for the 2nd time by my local Jeep dealer, almost one year to the date. I asked the Service Mgr. what's the chance of getting 2 sets of defective tapered-roller bearings only one year apart? He just shook his head. I asked if there was a secret Fiat-Chrysler recall for a design or mfg. defect and he couldn't tell me.

I had a 1998 Cherokee that went 190,000 mi, before it died of electrical problems and it still had the original wheel bearings in the solid axles. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
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