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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. New to the site and trying to figure out the CVT in my patriot. It’s a 2015 2.0 with 120,000 miles. I bought it used and it was running good for awhile until it started to whine. Transmission temperature light came on once. I changed the fluid and filters. Noise went away and then about a month afterwards my wife was driving it and the rpms were really high and bucking from a stop and wanting to die. I had it towed home and checked the fluid level. It was good. When I put it in reverse of drive it requires a lot of pedal before lurching and bucking in the designated direction. Once momentum is established then it doesn’t buck. I cleared the codes but it was giving me incorrect gear ratio and shift solenoid stuck. I believe a P0777.
Do these symptoms sound like a valve body or pressure pump?
Thank you for any advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Sandstone. I’ll check that. I forgot to mention I have pulled the transmission and opened it up. There doesn’t seem to be any unusual wear on any of the parts that I can visually see. As for the flow control valve. Is it easier just to replace the whole throttle body? Also should I replace torque converter as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also I need to add that when I changed the fluid it was almost used motor oil dark. I’m assuming it had never been changed.
 

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The pump flow valve is inside the pump assembly:

In the video where he talks about the valve and bore getting scored has to do with metal bits in old dirty fluid.

"The most expensive repair of CVT happens when the pressure in the system drops. The reason for this is the chips and coating of the pressure relief valve in the CVT pump.The oil pump RE0F10A / JF011E is the most vulnerable part of the CVT. The cover of the pressure relief valve is torn off, the valve is jammed is in a hot state. Further, because of low pressure, the belt RE0F10A / JF011E is erased. The shavings from the belt and the pulleys get into the valve body, and the car with the buzzing sound stops with the pressure errors in the pulleys. In this case, the oil pump, CVT belt and valve body are replaced. If the pulleys are erased, the set of pulleys is also replaced. "

and:


Harmful Filings
Редукционный клапан насоса и его посадочное отверстие со следами задира

A common complaint of the car owner is irregular motion, kicks at acceleration. There may be several reasons behind this kind behavior of a car. However, virtually all of them have to do with oil contamination with the pulley debris – metal chips or filings can create a variety of problems. There are magnets in the crankcase to mitigate harmful effects of these metal particles, they have to collect these particles but sometimes do not cope with the task.

This may cause various malfunctions. First of all, accelerated wear of the valve body leading to pressure fluctuations, which, in turn, make pulleys move, resulting in the fluctuations of transmission gear ratio and irregular motion of the car.

Normally, this also leads to shock at reduction gear range change (at an approximate speed of 30–45 km/h), as well as double or even triple range switching, that looks like engine revolution surges, reluctance to go back to lower range at braking, vibration at switches to lower range – all of these are consequences of "leaky" plate with significantly worn down body and valves. The valve body needs to be repaired and possibly even replaced.

Filings and chips also cause irregular wear or seizure of the oil pressure relief valve.

Pic.: Oil pressure relief valve and its matching bore with traces of scoring

This type of defect can occur fairly soon, in cars with not more than 30–40 thousand km on the odometer.
Unless the valve body is repaired or replaced in time, this will ultimately cause damage to pulleys and belt that will have to be replaced in this case. Pulleys are the most expensive unit of the CVT. They can be polished but in some cases only replacement can help.

Metal contaminants also block up pressure controllers, thus contributing to an accelerated wear of valves."
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This is why I've said to dump the factory fill at 30k miles, and clean out all the metal bits, then 30-50k change intervals depending on driving conditions, especially if you use factory fluid which is just Nissan NS2 and doesn't take heat and heavy use well as we have seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you! I was thinking pump before I pulled the transmission. I’ll check that valve when I get home and see what condition it’s in and keep you updated. Thanks again for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I can take pictures. I already have it apart but I can take pictures as I’m putting it together. I watch a video on YouTube that was pretty thorough. I got the valve out of the pump. I had difficulty at first getting it to slide out but after working it back and forth it came out. Felt like it was snagging. It is scored for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is my first time rebuilding a transmission so it’s going to be a slow and in-depth process. My plan is to tear it completely down and inspect everything that is known to be troublesome so that I don’t have to pull it again for a long time.
 

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I'm sorry I guess we posted at the same time and I didn't see your question.

If I were in your situation, I'd consider consulting with WIT, ATSG, or like and see what they recommend as far as what kits, etc. to install.

ATSG charges $75 for tech support calls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm sorry I guess we posted at the same time and I didn't see your question.

If I were in your situation, I'd consider consulting with WIT, ATSG, or like and see what they recommend as far as what kits, etc. to install.

ATSG charges $75 for tech support calls.
Thanks Sandstone. I’ll definitely do that cause the kits are a bit confusing to me since I don’t know what’s included. I was inspection belt and pulley assemblies when I found the primary to spin off center. I looked closer and found the piston lopsided and metal shaving wedges or welded to the sides.
 

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