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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I wanted to ask a question, if perhaps anyone has had the same issues.

2012 Patriot Latitude, has been doing an odd "kicking" thing when pulling off from a red light, or sometimes when cruising and accelerating lightly. Each time I've noticed the revs are about 1500-2000 when it does it. It's been getting slowly worse over about a year. 104000 miles on the clock.

Took it to a transmission guy, and he said I need a new transmission at $5000. Another repair shop quotes $3000 for a rebuilt one. If I shift manually, it goes away 99%. It kicked it once, when cruising at 50mph and the revs were again at 1500. Does not do it when cold, only when hot. If I drive in auto mode, it does it all the time between 20-35mph, and is annoying/loss of power also, but in manual mode I can drive it clean and smooth and pick up fast.

Jeep dealership said it's out of warranty.

A few weeks ago, the indicators stopped working, then started again, which I think was an electrical thing. Hasn't returned.

A few questions: could this be transmission (ie. needing a new one) or could it be electrical controlling the CVT? Would it be normal for the automatic transmission kicking to go away when I shift manually?

Any insights or advice would be appreciated!
 

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It does sound like its slipping. Shifting it manually probably masks the problem. These CVTs should have the fluid & filters changed every 50,000 miles (the owners manual is misleading) and you're double those miles.

I don't want to hold out false hope but I was afraid my tranny was slipping but it turned out that my unevenly worn tires were confusing the ECM. In my case I was running worn undersized snows on one axle and OEM size on the other -- new tires solved my problem. If your tires are all the same size, in good shape, and rotated frequently I doubt the tires are causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I just took it to a Firestone, and they said my back tires wre worn and will need to be replaced soon. I didn't get them done as it was an extra $200. Do you think it could be the tires? My two front ones are almost new. Wondering now if I should get the back tires done, then if it goes away get trans filters/fluid changed.
 

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Does the engine ever stall? Do you find your car accelerating or decelerating during this "kick" or neither? Do you have any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No stall. No accelerating or decelerating at all. No codes given, all clear. No check engine light or any warnings at all.

It feels like a light "bump" or jerk that doesn't affect the driving at all. I notice that if I put my foot down and keep the revs high I can bypass it, only seems to happen if revs are at 1500-2000 and sometimes if gliding/rolling down a hill and the revs sit at 1500 or so.

Sometimes I've noticed loss of power when moving from a stop position, but rarely.
 

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It sounded like you might be misfiring but it would store a misfire code if you were. The "loss of power" also seemed like it could be a throttle body issue but I think the vehicle would stall if it were a throttle body issue. I remember when the sensor inside my throttle body went out I was able to avoid the symptoms mostly by using autostick feature like you said you were doing, but my main symptom was stalling, so it is most likely a completely separate issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The odd thing is it doesn't do it at all when it's cold. When the engine is hot, is starts. So it's not there all the time. Could this perhaps be gunked up filters/fluids. As far as I know, this car has never had it's transmission serviced.
 

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Patriot '09, 2,4 cvt 4wd
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Firstly,
On a 4wd you need to have 4 the same evenly worm tyres on all 4 corners. If not you'll get problems.
So 2 new and 2 worn will give problems.
2 bigger and 2 OEM will give problems.

Secondly,
Always check you're sparkplugs and do a compression test when having problems.
Different colour on 1 plug is an indication for a coil gone bad or valves not opening wide enough.
If everything is ok, work back from engine to injectors and fuel lines.

I had the same thing.
I'm driving on liquid gas (it gets hotter so problems occur faster).
My valves on cil 4 didn't have enough clearance.
Fixed that and it runs great.
 

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Ditto @Rens914. It is important that the tires are worn evenly, i.e. purchased together and regularly rotated. My symptoms were during acceleration such as an entrance ramp and increasing speed from 35-60MPH or climbing a hill at 55 but the engine had to rev higher to maintain speed. Never happened from a dead stop. Mine didn't run rough otherwise. The problem happened under what I call "moving acceleration" it was like the engine quit for an instant, maybe a full RPM or two. Not enough to show on the tach, but I could feel it. If it was a long hill I might feel it again. My guess is that the inconsistent tires were confusing the ECM. FYI, mine was FWD not AWD.

Your symptoms don't seem quite like mine but if you need tires anyway I'd start there. Compared to a tranny, tires are cheap. Spark plugs are even cheaper. Maybe you don't know that Patriot plugs are only 30,000 mile items. Plugs are an easy DIY job -- maybe half an hour with time out to play with your dog.
 

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PS, God forbid you need to replace the tranny but if you do, go with new or rebuilt. A junkyard tranny might be why it was junked in the first place. :(
 

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Patriot '09, 2,4 cvt 4wd
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Look at the colour of you're sparkplugs.
They should all have the same colour and preferably coffee with milk colour.
Lighter = to lean (injector dirty)
Darker = bad spark (ignition or valve clearance)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK took it out again. There's an audible click when I change between D and R, like metal clicking I could only hear with the window down. There's a light whine sound going up and down between what would be shifting from 2-5 and the "bump" I describe (that feels like a gear change) is not actually shifting gears as it can do it when I'm just rolling in 5th (in manual shifting) and the gear display doesn't change off 5. I can recreate the light whine if I manually shift down through 5-1 a "bit early". There is also a light rattle very occasionally like a bolt rolls across in a tin type sound.

Took it to Firestone to get tires (will be in Tues) and the guy said it sounds like transmission and not to get a trans fluid/filter change as that will just make it worse. He said to just get a new transmission (he didn't drive the car was just going by my description.) I would think a service might make it better? was going to try service after the new tires/plugs/alignment.
 

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A flush (using a machine) might make it worse. If you're going to service the trans, just do a fluid drain/re-fill with filters, that's all that's needed.
When you drop the pan check for metal "glitter' on the magnets, hopefully there won't be any.
 

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After reading on, and considering that your tire guy thinks it's the tranny, it probably is. :( A fluid & filter change won't fix anything, it's only preventative. If the damage is done, it's too late. These things don't heal.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm thinking the same thing, unfortunately. Getting tires/alignment and going to add new plugs - then get tranny replaced I think, I thought about trading it in with the issue and getting a newer car but with those estimates/costs and the extra insurance I'd be spending double out of pocket as well as upping my monthly bills. Might be a better investment to get it fixed and roll on with the Patriot.
 

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I'm thinking the same thing, unfortunately. Getting tires/alignment and going to add new plugs - then get tranny replaced I think, I thought about trading it in with the issue and getting a newer car but with those estimates/costs and the extra insurance I'd be spending double out of pocket as well as upping my monthly bills. Might be a better investment to get it fixed and roll on with the Patriot.
I agree, you're probably doing best to get it fixed. "The cheapest car you'll ever own is the one you own today." There's also something about the devil you know and the devil you don't know. Not quite as expensive as yours but I had a major repair around 200,000 and got another 75,000 out of it. It was worth the money.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
OK, update: changed the rear tires to match the front + put in new sparkplugs. Coils were fine. The "kicking" is gone. There is a light whine still going on now and then and also the audible click when it goes into R from D but only after a long drive and I'm parking. Now I'm thinking the kicking I thought was unwanted gear changes might have been misfires or something. Still got what feels like sluggish performance. Thinking next I might get a fluid/filter on the transmission. Wondering if it's all a combo of neglect on the parts and they all need a "tune-up" so to speak. Will give it this week and see if the kicking comes back before deciding what to do next.
 

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If you do end up changing the tranny, there have been a few successful 6-speed automatic swaps. That's the 6f24 doesn't have the same problems and is very reliable.
 

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OK, update: changed the rear tires to match the front + put in new sparkplugs. Coils were fine. The "kicking" is gone. There is a light whine still going on now and then and also the audible click when it goes into R from D but only after a long drive and I'm parking. Now I'm thinking the kicking I thought was unwanted gear changes might have been misfires or something. Still got what feels like sluggish performance. Thinking next I might get a fluid/filter on the transmission. Wondering if it's all a combo of neglect on the parts and they all need a "tune-up" so to speak. Will give it this week and see if the kicking comes back before deciding what to do next.

There's a couple of things you can try and see if the performance improves:

If that doesn't help you might try disconnecting the battery cables, touching the ends of the cables together, and waiting for 15-20 minutes to clear any stored driving adaptives, then re-connect.
 
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