[ruckingoodtime]

so my ‘11 patriot just started dying while driving. I just changed the air filter, oil, and spark plugs last week so I thought maybe I accidentally unplugged something but I went back through everything and it’s all good. The night it started I had filled up and didn’t shut off my car, it sputtered leaving the gas station for a minute and then it stopped. But now It doesn’t matter what speed I’m driving about every 5-10 minutes it will shut off. No sputtering or anything. Like fuel had just been shut off. I have to wait a couple minutes and then it will start right back up with no issues. Then a few minutes later it dies again. A buddy had mentioned the fuel pump over heating. But I thought if the lump went out, it went out. Not intermittently. Any suggestions? I did try searching online and on the forums but I didn’t see anyone with issues exactly like mine.

 

[Sandstone]

I know the symptoms are different from what others have had, but maybe the valve in the fuel tank is screwing up.
Try thumping on the fuel tank, drivers side, with a rubber mallet and see if it helps.

Aside from that, I'd get a good code scanner that can read make / model specific codes and see if there's anything going on.

 

[todde702]

On the firewall, below the master cylinder is the fuel vapor purge valve. If the roll over/vent valve went bad in the tank (mine did), it can suck a load of raw fuel instead of just vapors right into the intake. This also means your vapor canister could be saturated with fuel. The purge valve gets activated a few minutes after running. You can try unplugging the electrical connector to see if it stops stalling but this will set a code obviously. In leau of replacing my fuel tank, i hosed in a catch can between the valve and the engine and now rarely have an issue unless i overfill the tank.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

So it will start and run just fine. Then like today I was on the highway set cruise to 75 and it just stopped. All lights were still on just the engine stopped. I pulled over turned it off and let it sit for maybe 2 mins and it started right up. But it also did it at a stop light while I was stopped. Same thing, turned it off for a couple mins and it started right up.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

On the firewall, below the master cylinder is the fuel vapor purge valve. If the roll over/vent valve went bad in the tank (mine did), it can suck a load of raw fuel instead of just vapors right into the intake. This also means your vapor canister could be saturated with fuel. The purge valve gets activated a few minutes after running. You can try unplugging the electrical connector to see if it stops stalling but this will set a code obviously. In leau of replacing my fuel tank, i hosed in a catch can between the valve and the engine and now rarely have an issue unless i overfill the tank.

Would I be able to start a couple mins after stalling?

 

[todde702]

It would only be a problem after filling the tank. In your post you mentioned you filled the tank so this was just a thought.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

Yes I stupidly filled up with the car running. I’ve done it a bunch of times but this time when I went to leave the car sputtered, didn’t stall, and then went to normal. I assumed it was just vacuum leak from having the gas cap off while running. Another friend of mine, who usually does any work I don’t want to do, is head mechanic at a Chrysler dealership near me and he mentioned the crankshaft sensor and said that he had replaced a lot of them. But there’s no CEL. Well there is a CEL but for p0420 catalyst efficiency below threshold which has been on forever.

 

[Sandstone]

he mentioned the crankshaft sensor

The crankshaft sensor or it's wiring / connector.

You could try giving it (crankshaft position sensor cable) the "wiggle" test while it's running and see if it stalls / sputters.

 

[Lorena Tenorio]

so my ‘11 patriot just started dying while driving. I just changed the air filter, oil, and spark plugs last week so I thought maybe I accidentally unplugged something but I went back through everything and it’s all good. The night it started I had filled up and didn’t shut off my car, it sputtered leaving the gas station for a minute and then it stopped. But now It doesn’t matter what speed I’m driving about every 5-10 minutes it will shut off. No sputtering or anything. Like fuel had just been shut off. I have to wait a couple minutes and then it will start right back up with no issues. Then a few minutes later it dies again. A buddy had mentioned the fuel pump over heating. But I thought if the lump went out, it went out. Not intermittently. Any suggestions? I did try searching online and on the forums but I didn’t see anyone with issues exactly like mine.

I had the same issue, but I also got a light on most of the time took it to a mechanic and he changed the fuel injection throttle body.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

I checked again on my Bluetooth obd2 scanner and code p0339 popped up. Crankshaft sensor.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

So I got that issue fixed and as soon as I started the car it started to run fine then the Ron’s dipped and came up real fast and will pulsate like that about every 30 seconds. Nothing else was unplugged. Of course I just paid this car off last month so now I’m having all the issues.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

So now I’m getting p0408 Egr valve which would explain the rough idle. Wondering if when my buddy replaced the crankshaft sensor if he accidentally hit the Egr or something. But I’ve looked everywhere online and can’t seen to find its location. Anyone know?

 

[Sandstone]

There's no EGR valve on the gas engines, only the diesels have them.

Also, code p0408 doesn't turn up in the service manuals I have.

 

[ruckingoodtime]

Haha so why is it throwing that code?

 

[ruckingoodtime]

 

[Sandstone]

Haha so why is it throwing that code?

If you don't have a EGR, it shouldn't throw a code for one.

Try another scan app, like AlfaOBD