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When I first purchased the vehicle my car would jolt at rest while my foot was on the brake. I went and got a diagnostic test the only thing that came back was the code for a catalytic converter. Maybe a good 2 weeks later if that long my battery died so I replaced the battery because it would not hold a charge. Then i was told it was the alternator so I went out and bought an alternator just to find out my original alternator was good. After getting my alternator fixed I drove it for 2days work and back gand on the second day my car started to make like a toy car sound while accelerating so I took it in to get another diagnostic test now two new codes come up. The next day I tried to drive it before I made it around the corner the car wouldn’t accelerate at all I could press the gas but it wouldn’t move. I just bought this car in the middle of March and it’s been sitting on the streets more than I have driven it. I need help because I’m getting so many different causes from mechanics when my original problem was the catalytic converter and now all of these other problems are occurring and that is getting put on a back burner. The last codes I received from my diagnostic test were....
94043
94044
 

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Welcome to the site! There are lots of Patriot lovers on here, and this is where people come with problems. Apparently you fit both categories. The good news is there are a lot of helpful folks on here too, and many know far more than I do.

I'm not sure what you mean by "jolt." Does it vibrate or run rough? If the spark plugs are old the engine will run poorly resulting in loss of power and the resulting fuel waste will also damage your catalytic converter. The classic symptom of a plugged catcon is a loss of power, particularly while accelerating

You will see comments all over this site about spark plugs. Most cars today have 100,000 mile spark plugs, but Patriot plugs are only good for 30,000 miles, so the spark plugs are a frequently neglected maintenance item. Plugs are a cheap and easy DIY. There are threads on here about that and probably videos on Youtube.

It's not uncommon for the battery and alternator to die close together. It's happened to me. The alternator works itself to death trying to keep the weak battery charged.

Please realize that at 150,000 miles, your Patriot is middle-aged and problems are to be expected. Whenever you get a used vehicle, it isn't long before you find out why the last owner sold it.

One more piece of friendly advice: if you have the CVT (automatic transmission) you should get the fluid and filters changed ASAP. Maybe it's been done, but if you don't know, make it a priority. It's a couple hundred bucks but wa-a-ay cheaper than a new transmission!

I hope you get over these bumps and are able to enjoy your Patriot. My first Patriot went to 280,000 miles and I sold it to a friend and its still on the road two years later. Probably over 300,000 now. It's a tough break having to do repairs on a car you just bought, but like I said, once you get the kinks worked out, here's hoping you have a lot of happy miles ahead of you.

Please report back how it all shakes out. Again welcome! See ya around the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I’m sitting at a red light the car jerks back and forth as if I took my foot off the brake and it does the same thing sometimes driving.
 

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Welcome to the group! It sucks that you're having problems with a vehicle that you just bought... been there before myself. That jerking is a classic sign of worn out spark plugs. As is poor acceleration. You should definitely get those changed ASAP. As Ignatz said, it's a very easy DIY job if you or a friend has basic tools. Should only cost $20 and 20 minutes to DIY. About $120 for a shop to do it... give or take.
 

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I took it in to a shop today and now the shop is saying Transmission issues.... $3200. Will bad spark plugs make the car eventually not be able to accelerate in any gears? I tried to move it today and now it won’t even go just revs up. I don’t want to have to pay for another transmission if it’s just the spark plugs causing these problems.
 

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No, sorry to say that's not spark plugs. If you put it in gear and it wont move, thats a transmission issue.
 

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I took it in to a shop today and now the shop is saying Transmission issues.... $3200. Will bad spark plugs make the car eventually not be able to accelerate in any gears? I tried to move it today and now it won’t even go just revs up. I don’t want to have to pay for another transmission if it’s just the spark plugs causing these problems.
Uh oh. If it's in gear and it won't go,unfortunately it probably is the transmission. :( Breaks my heart to say that. On the bright side, I think $3200 is cheap as long as you're getting a factory rebuilt transmission and not a junkyard piece. I've seen prices on here in the range of $4500 for a new tranny so as I said, if they install a factory rebuilt for $3200 that's a good deal. You ought to buy coffee for the whole shop for a week!

And then remember to change that CVT fluid every 50,000 miles from here on. If the previous owner had done that you wouldn't have this problem now.

As for the other stuff, changing spark plugs is a good idea and cheap. Really I doubt your cat-con is plugged unless it's been running with bad plugs for a long time. The cat-con on my previous Patriot went to 280,000 without plugging. The cat-con in my Pontiac didn't fail until 230,000. My present Patriot is at 150,000 and no problems so far. Really I don't expect any for a while yet. 🤞
 

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I took it in to a shop today and now the shop is saying Transmission issues.... $3200. Will bad spark plugs make the car eventually not be able to accelerate in any gears? I tried to move it today and now it won’t even go just revs up. I don’t want to have to pay for another transmission if it’s just the spark plugs causing these problems.
Jeep, not car, haha. And unfortunately, if it's acting like it's in neutral while you've got it in drive or reverse, as it sounds, then your CVT belt snapped. You've got a continuously variable transmission, and they need a little extra TLC. If it was just jerking, a new set of spark plugs bought for $25 on the high end and installed by yourself or a friend/family member would be the cheapest thing to try first, then throttle body which is I think about a $110 part. CVT's aren't cheap, but I do appreciate the simplicity of them. Goes well with that Jeep badge. Continuously variable transmission - Wikipedia

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When I first purchased the vehicle my car would jolt at rest while my foot was on the brake. I went and got a diagnostic test the only thing that came back was the code for a catalytic converter. Maybe a good 2 weeks later if that long my battery died so I replaced the battery because it would not hold a charge. Then i was told it was the alternator so I went out and bought an alternator just to find out my original alternator was good. After getting my alternator fixed I drove it for 2days work and back gand on the second day my car started to make like a toy car sound while accelerating so I took it in to get another diagnostic test now two new codes come up. The next day I tried to drive it before I made it around the corner the car wouldn’t accelerate at all I could press the gas but it wouldn’t move. I just bought this car in the middle of March and it’s been sitting on the streets more than I have driven it. I need help because I’m getting so many different causes from mechanics when my original problem was the catalytic converter and now all of these other problems are occurring and that is getting put on a back burner. The last codes I received from my diagnostic test were.... View attachment 94043 View attachment 94044
Hi there new Jeep Patriot owner, (As I give the sign of the Cross)... I hope that you haven't taken your Patriot in for a new Catalytic Converter yet.... Here is some advice. I have found that with these Jeeps, it really doesn't matter what part you replace, or just anything you fix or even tighten on these vehicles, #1, you ''Have To''- (say it again), You Have To Clear All Fault Codes in the ECM right after the part is replaced. Better yet, Before You Replace Any Part, Scan the ECM, write down any Fault Codes, then Clear the Codes & then see if that corrects the problem. Even if it's just an adjustment being made, try clearing those stored codes first.... I have had so many ''False-Positives'' with my 2010 Patriot, it about drives me crazy, plus I was about ready to start dishing out more cash to buy parts that I didn't need to replace...

When I purchased my 2010 Patriot back in October, 2019 I had about 5 or 6 warning lights (Listed at bottom of post), that would stay on all the time. One of the Fault Codes that kept showing up whenever I scanned the ECM, was that pesky & common P-0420, which meant I had either ''O2 Sensors'' that failed, or the ''Catalytic Converter'' needed to be replaced. After I started checking to make sure that Every Ground Wire, or Grounding Pigtail - (where there could be anywhere from 2-3 ground wires, up to 9 ground wires, all coupled together. These Jeep Models, including Compass, Liberty, Wranglers & so on have terribly cheap wiring., add some bad engineering designs, means that you're gonna have all sorts of problems. So one of the things I learned to do was check every ''Grounding Pigtail'' for Corroded Wires, which I have found all over my Patriot & depending where you live, especially if you're in any of the ''Rust-Belt States'', these Jeeps are prone to having a ton of problems due to corroded wires/wiring.....

Here's another issue with these Patriots, I needed to fix/adjust the Shifter because I was having problems trying to get it to go & stay in ''D'' Drive. After I figured out what that problem was, I put the Center Console back in, checked/cleared out any fault codes stored in the ECM & the ''Heated Seats'' stopped working & the small Bulb for the gear selector, which lights up & shows you what gear you're in stopped working as well. So Go Figure!!! 3 weeks ago the ''Airbag'' warning light started staying on all the time, for no apparent reason. Wanna know how I fixed that problem? I popped the Hood, ''Wiggled'' the TIPM (TIPM is the Fuse Block.Fuse Box), so just to the right of the Engine Air Filter canister. That's all it took to get the damn Airbag warning light to stay off. So now I imagine that normal driving can be the cause of all sorts of issues. With all that being said, I hope I have been able to shed light on what you need to do first before becoming a Parts Hanger Vehicle, helping to keep your wallet lighter...

List of ''Warning Lights'' that use to be on All The Time on my 2010 Patriot: *ABS, *ESC, *ESB, *Airbag, *4WD!, *Brake, *Seat-Belt & *Check-Engine... Today, 5/11/21, the only warning light that pops on is the 4WD!, so there's a fault somewhere in the system, which I'll need to take it in & have the system scanned. But before that I'll be checking all the wiring harness's that plug into the bottom of the TIPM, checking for corroded wires. Next I am getting a Rebuilt/Refurbished TIPM, a $200.00 drop in the bucket but could be the ''Fix'' to many issues that pop up from time to time...
 

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@AntionetteBlu3, below are wiring and location diagrams of the two main ground connections that Danmax mentioned, used by the O2 and other sensors.

You may want to have the shop cut the old ring lugs off these ground connections, strip all the wires back, and add new ring lugs to insure a proper ground and eliminate potential problems.

94085


G110

94083


G111/G112

94084
 

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@AntionetteBlu3, below are wiring and location diagrams of the two main ground connections that Danmax mentioned, used by the O2 and other sensors.

You may want to have the shop cut the old ring lugs off these ground connections, strip all the wires back, and add new ring lugs to insure a proper ground and eliminate potential problems.

View attachment 94085

G110

View attachment 94083

G111/G112

View attachment 94084
Hey Sandstone thanks for mentioning that & adding the wiring diagrams. I should have taken a couple of snapshots of the grounding lugs (pigtails lol that's what I've been calling them.) I should have mentioned that one of the lugs is directly to the left of the lower front engine pulley on the frame, where 8 or 9 grounds are located & the other I repaired is on the (Facing the front engine compartment) on the top-right side of the ''Grill/Radiator Mounting Frame'', just to the left of the Hood Height Adjustment Nut. Where there's like 4 or 5 grounds in that Lug. They took care of a lot of things, like the O2 Sensor light, the Right Side Headlamp, which tend to quit working. Then next I went to the Relay Box that's located brlow the Left Marker/Blinker, next to the lower inside wheel well. They can cause a lot of issues, including the O2 if I'm not mistaken. I know it solved the Brake Light from staying on all the time...

You know these Patriots ride nice. The Cabins are pretty quiet inside, they drive nice & straight but they are high maintenance vehicles, when it comes to keeping all those pesky warning lights from coming on all the time.

That's why I bought the 1993 Cherokee Country XJ for my daily driver. I believe it has like 8-10 Fault Codes & that's it. No OBD2 Port but once you learn how to check for fault codes, it only takes like 5 minutes, the key, while you sit in the drivers seat lol......

I'm not sure where you got these diagrams at but they are well worth downloading. Trying to find which ground wires go to what can be tiresome. At least in my book.
My wife wants me to sell the Patriot but I told her that if I can keep all those warning lights from popping on all the time, it'll make a good family vehicle to use whenever anyone in the family needs their daily driver repaired, they'll have something for work, or for whatever.... I mean I'd drive it but my daughter & her husband flip out when they drove it because of the ABS, ESC & ESB Warning Lights coming on, which causes the vehicle to not drive over 20-25 MPH.. Sorta Scary....
 

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Hey Sandstone thanks for mentioning that & adding the wiring diagrams. I should have taken a couple of snapshots of the grounding lugs (pigtails lol that's what I've been calling them.) I should have mentioned that one of the lugs is directly to the left of the lower front engine pulley on the frame, where 8 or 9 grounds are located & the other I repaired is on the (Facing the front engine compartment) on the top-right side of the ''Grill/Radiator Mounting Frame'', just to the left of the Hood Height Adjustment Nut. Where there's like 4 or 5 grounds in that Lug. They took care of a lot of things, like the O2 Sensor light, the Right Side Headlamp, which tend to quit working. Then next I went to the Relay Box that's located brlow the Left Marker/Blinker, next to the lower inside wheel well. They can cause a lot of issues, including the O2 if I'm not mistaken. I know it solved the Brake Light from staying on all the time...

You know these Patriots ride nice. The Cabins are pretty quiet inside, they drive nice & straight but they are high maintenance vehicles, when it comes to keeping all those pesky warning lights from coming on all the time.

That's why I bought the 1993 Cherokee Country XJ for my daily driver. I believe it has like 8-10 Fault Codes & that's it. No OBD2 Port but once you learn how to check for fault codes, it only takes like 5 minutes, the key, while you sit in the drivers seat lol......

I'm not sure where you got these diagrams at but they are well worth downloading. Trying to find which ground wires go to what can be tiresome. At least in my book.
My wife wants me to sell the Patriot but I told her that if I can keep all those warning lights from popping on all the time, it'll make a good family vehicle to use whenever anyone in the family needs their daily driver repaired, they'll have something for work, or for whatever.... I mean I'd drive it but my daughter & her husband flip out when they drove it because of the ABS, ESC & ESB Warning Lights coming on, which causes the vehicle to not drive over 20-25 MPH.. Sorta Scary....
Odd you should have so many problems. Never had anything so bad on my 2010, just the ETC when I tried doing a plugin performance thing, check engine light when I installed aftermarket O2 sensors instead of Mopar, the usual tire pressure sensor crap, suspension stuff, and my CVT failed once when I didn't change the fluid in time. Standard stuff for a Patriot, no Christmas tree of lights.
 

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Always check the wiring
My daughter had limp mode diagnosed by the dealer as a faulty transmission control module on her 2011. Dealer replaced at $650 or so. No joy. Then they wanted to replace TIPM at $1300.
I said no. Tried another shop, fixed issue with a new relay in the box behind the left headlight. They said the part was relatively expensive, but they had a used one to put in.
Problem fixed. $3.99 + labor.
 

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Odd you should have so many problems. Never had anything so bad on my 2010, just the ETC when I tried doing a plugin performance thing, check engine light when I installed aftermarket O2 sensors instead of Mopar, the usual tire pressure sensor crap, suspension stuff, and my CVT failed once when I didn't change the fluid in time. Standard stuff for a Patriot, no Christmas tree of lights.
Well wiring issues for Patriot, Compass, Liberty & Wrangler are more on the normal side if you live in the rust-belt. Location of the relay box was an engineering mistake but still, the cheap wiring used on the Jeep lines just suck. I can literally pop the hood, grab just about any wiring harness wiggle it, then go start the vehicle & have a warning light stay on. Like I said earlier, they drive well, are pretty quiet in the cabin, with the CVT type transmission, they're not understood by most and can be either a good experience, or a nightmare. But electronically, they can be troublesome. There's horror stories from folks that bought a 3-4 year old Patriot and ended up sticking another $7k to $12k into the vehicle before calling it quits, then dumping it...
You'd think that the vehicles with all those issues may have been from owners who neglected taking care of their vehicles but that's not really the case. In my opinion it's a combination of things, where you live in the US, followed the maintenance program & kept up with repairs, (which is basically every vehicle & owner). But not to forget about the type of roads you drive on. Where I live in Michigan, the roads suck......
 

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@AnntionetteBlu3, where are you at with your Patriot? Some have replied to your original posting. It would be great to know if we've helped you out with the suggestions, diagrams & experiences and where you're at today....
If you can provide **where you live (meaning the state), The **current mileage on your Patriot & **Where you bought it,- Chrysler/Jeep Dealership, Used Car Dealer >>>( Acme Used Cars ), or Private Owner Sale...
It might sound a little personal, strange asking, or that it doesn't matter but in all fairness, all the above can help out a lot. There's some very knowledgeable folks here in the Forum & 99.9% of the Folks here Do Care, are Honest & do want to help figure out what could be going on with your Jeep Patriot....
Bless-Your-Heart >>>> Antionette Blu3....
 

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Well wiring issues for Patriot, Compass, Liberty & Wrangler are more on the normal side if you live in the rust-belt. Location of the relay box was an engineering mistake but still, the cheap wiring used on the Jeep lines just suck. I can literally pop the hood, grab just about any wiring harness wiggle it, then go start the vehicle & have a warning light stay on. Like I said earlier, they drive well, are pretty quiet in the cabin, with the CVT type transmission, they're not understood by most and can be either a good experience, or a nightmare. But electronically, they can be troublesome. There's horror stories from folks that bought a 3-4 year old Patriot and ended up sticking another $7k to $12k into the vehicle before calling it quits, then dumping it...
You'd think that the vehicles with all those issues may have been from owners who neglected taking care of their vehicles but that's not really the case. In my opinion it's a combination of things, where you live in the US, followed the maintenance program & kept up with repairs, (which is basically every vehicle & owner). But not to forget about the type of roads you drive on. Where I live in Michigan, the roads suck......
I live in Michigan myself. My Patriot spent most of its first 3.5 years out of Belvedere as my college vehicle, ferrying me between Cedarville University in Ohio and home up north of Grand Rapids a ways. Then it's sat around alot as I've been off trucking, and has even been out to Phoenix once 4 years ago. Worst thing to happen to the wiring was when some mice decided to make a nest in the forward dome light a couple winters back, and another time when I installed hitch wiring and apparently got something wrong. Marker lights would occasionally malfunction, but that's since been fixed with no issues since.
 
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