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Jeep Patriot North 2.4L, 4x2, 5 spd manual transmission . .
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't drive more than 80mi/week, max. I'm going to get my oil changed today. But with this milage, I've postponed changing over the sticker change.

Have I hurt my engine? Can I avoid using synthetic oil?

(I changed my own spark plugs and my idling speed went from just a bit over 1000rpm down to 700rpm... I figure that's pretty good?)

Thanks!
 

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I don't drive more than 80mi/week, max. I'm going to get my oil changed today. But with this milage, I've postponed changing over the sticker change.
Opinions on oil changes vary, but if I were running conventional oil at only 4k miles per year, short trip stop and go, I'd change it every 6 months.
 

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like Sandstone says "Opinions on oil change vary". I use conventional oil and change the fluid and (OEM) filter every 3000 miles (or 4800km). If you don't drive 4800km in a year, then you should change the oil once a year regardless of mileage. If you use synthetic oil you can push it to 5000 miles (or 8000 km) but you still need to change it once a year regardless of which type of oil you use.

what type of plugs did you install?
 

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Jeep Patriot North 2.4L, 4x2, 5 spd manual transmission . .
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, @TKPat, entendu/understood!

Oil change was early last spring, but it's gnawing at me to change the oil for sure.

Plugs, don't remember. I have some packaging left in the glove compartment. Will check and post.

I have to do my front shocks in the new year. I just had both control arms changed and front brakes done as well.

Thanks again, you folks here are terrific.
 

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Jeep Patriot North 2.4L, 4x2, 5 spd manual transmission . .
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
like Sandstone says "Opinions on oil change vary". I use conventional oil and change the fluid and (OEM) filter every 3000 miles (or 4800km). If you don't drive 4800km in a year, then you should change the oil once a year regardless of mileage. If you use synthetic oil you can push it to 5000 miles (or 8000 km) but you still need to change it once a year regardless of which type of oil you use.

what type of plugs did you install?
I think I put iridium plugs in. My Pat is idling at 700rpm now. It was idling at ~1100rpm when I bought it from the guy. (did I answer you elsewhere? if now, my apologies.)

and.... I just put in a small bottle (4cyl size) of Engine Restore, being that the oil is down only at 3/4's the way down the grid on the dip stick. There is still around 3K km left on the oil change sticker on my windshield.
 

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Thanks, @TKPat, entendu/understood!

Oil change was early last spring, but it's gnawing at me to change the oil for sure.

Plugs, don't remember. I have some packaging left in the glove compartment. Will check and post.

I have to do my front shocks in the new year. I just had both control arms changed and front brakes done as well.

Thanks again, you folks here are terrific.
Now I’d have to totally agree with changing the oil and oil filter once a year even on low mileage engines. Why you might ask? It’s not just a viscosity issue. Contaminants that your oil is exposed to can turn oil more acidic which you should avoid, especially with the different metals used in engine production today. Synthetics or even synthetic blends are, in my humble opinion, a better option, than straight mineral oils. A very close friend of mine who was a lubricants engineer (for one of the Big 3) tested some engines for wear with spectral analysis (among other methods). It was found that an engine running a 25/75% blend of mineral / synthetic oil (by the manufacturer) for the equivalent of 300,000 miles (with regular oil / filter changes) had the engine wear equivalent of an engine (running straight mineral oil) of 60,000 miles.
 

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Jeep Patriot North 2.4L, 4x2, 5 spd manual transmission . .
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now I’d have to totally agree with changing the oil and oil filter once a year even on low mileage engines. Why you might ask? It’s not just a viscosity issue. Contaminants that your oil is exposed to can turn oil more acidic which you should avoid, especially with the different metals used in engine production today. Synthetics or even synthetic blends are, in my humble opinion, a better option, than straight mineral oils. A very close friend of mine who was a lubricants engineer (for one of the Big 3) tested some engines for wear with spectral analysis (among other methods). It was found that an engine running a 25/75% blend of mineral / synthetic oil (by the manufacturer) for the equivalent of 300,000 miles (with regular oil / filter changes) had the engine wear equivalent of an engine (running straight mineral oil) of 60,000 miles.
@Spankyohio

Thanks, They put in synthetic oil, think. MotoMaster 5W20.

I had new shocks/heads and a new RHS CVT shaft (he said the LHS CVT was fine) and all bushings done. It takes bumps like a champ now.

FWIW

this a.m. I had to turn the ignition 3 times (no clicks or turn over, but cluster lit up) before it started. I stopped it and it fired up as usual. It happened again at the hospital, then when I stopped on my way home to do groceries, it did the same thing the parking lot. When I got home I parked, then started it again and it started up fine.

I've noticed recently when I start it, the starter, I guess seems to surge a bit before the engine fires.

I'm very thankful for this message board and everyones posts.
 
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