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If I had a flat-bed truck, I'd visit the yards, dig up a wrecked Patriot with a CVT, and strip that thing down using my Haynes book as a guide, to learn everything I could about it. If someone could "fix" the CVTs or improve them with better parts instead of just buying junked ones from wrecks and hoping for the best, it would be a great business.
 

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You bet! I hope it helps someone! Ill probably search out more broken ones and fix them, these trans are soooooo easy to work on. Its a shame they dont sell parts.
For the longest time, the commonly held and oft repeated belief was that CVT's had no serviceable parts and therefore could not be repaired, by anyone.

But that's now been proven wrong!

Now that people know they can be repaired, hopefully the parts situation will change.

Thanks again...and again....and again!
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
I just found another local one, 08, that was slipping and now wont move, maybe as simple as changing the belt? ( $170 part )Hmmm

*edit.. Looks like I'm buying another one Sunday. Different trans issue. So there will be more to this thread soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Picked it up. May do another thread on this one. A bunch of other issues. It it’s pimp. 08 4x4 with heated leather. Navigation. Etc.

This one the trans slips after driving for a while.

Codes on this one,
P2004
P0700
P2016
P161B




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Nice! If it just slips after driving a while, it's probably gonna be an easy fix for you! :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Did a full trans service on the new one. Still having issues. Guessing the belt is bad at this point. Still trouble shooting what I can before having to take it out and open it up.

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to. But looks like I’ll have to.

After driving a while, it acts weird. Throttle response off idle lags like 5 seconds, revs up more than it should at partial throttle. But up until that point it works perfectly. So odd....

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I hope you get the second Pat tranny figured out. I'll be following along.

By the way, I gotta say this thread is an amazing source of knowledge and unfortunately, I feel like I will be using it in the near future. My Patriot has been making a really faint grinding noise ever since I bought it last August with 106,000 km's on it. The noise doesn't really sound like the whining that people experience when its overheating, but more like a bearing grinding. So first, I decided to get the transmission fluid changed, since that is what most people recommend here when you hear noises. The noise did not go away after the fluid change. Then I wanted to get some professional opinions. I went to a Jeep dealership, they told me it's operating fine since it's not slipping, so after getting the run around from them, I went to an AAMCO transmission shop that rebuilds these things. The tech there told me that he couldn't hear anything and that these CVT's usually fail after they start slipping, which mine was not. Fast forward to this week and I feel like I can hear the grinding noise is a bit louder and I think there is some slipping going on (but I could be wrong). I'll have access to another car in the next month, so I'm considering following your procedure step by step to see if I can save me some serious money and repair it before it totally bites the dust, but at the same time, I don't want to be overwhelmed. So I've got some questions:

Do I need to use a transmission jack or can I somehow use my floor jack to get the transmission out?
Also speaking of special equipment, what else will I need for this procedure? I saw a slide hammer in the picture and a bearing puller?
How did you press in the bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
The first one had grinding noise coming from the trans when it moved, it was really loud on mine. It didnt slip or anything, I think the black one is slipping or something, hopefully in a couple weeks I can tear it apart.

I used a trans jack because I had one, but I would recommend getting one, or borrowing one, being able to tilt and move the trans anyway you need to, is SOOOOO helpful to get it in and out.

I used what I had to get the races out, the slide hammer worked on one race, but it didnt on the second one, I had to grind that one out.

The bearing puller I got at harbor freight (always use the 20% off coupons!)

I installed them with a press at work, Im sure you could do it with a hammer, I used the old bearing races to install the new ones.

If you have any questions, ask away!
 

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Deezil, did you just change your avatar to Johnny#5? I love it!

Pasier', I would make darned sure that the noise is coming from the transmission before I tackled a remove&rebuild on it. There's a million different things that could be making the grinding noise. When you changed the fluid, how did the old fluid look? Glittery? Dark?

On the other hand, if you start removing the transmission and something other than the transmission is making the noise, you'll probably find the culprit along the way! Even so, if you have a 4x4 version I'd start by checking the pillow block (it's the bearing for the propeller shaft behind the transmission) and definitely change the fluid in the power transfer unit (PTU). If I were a bettin' man, I'd put five bucks on the PTU causing the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Deezil, did you just change your avatar to Johnny#5? I love it!
Haha, yep!

And yes, make sure of where the noise is coming from! You can see the pics of what the magnets looked like in mine, they were growing hair! (metal filings)
 

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Deezil, did you just change your avatar to Johnny#5? I love it!



Pasier', I would make darned sure that the noise is coming from the transmission before I tackled a remove&rebuild on it. There's a million different things that could be making the grinding noise. When you changed the fluid, how did the old fluid look? Glittery? Dark?



On the other hand, if you start removing the transmission and something other than the transmission is making the noise, you'll probably find the culprit along the way! Even so, if you have a 4x4 version I'd start by checking the pillow block (it's the bearing for the propeller shaft behind the transmission) and definitely change the fluid in the power transfer unit (PTU). If I were a bettin' man, I'd put five bucks on the PTU causing the noise.

Yeah I want to narrow it down to something other than the transmission preferably. I didn’t change the tranny fluid myself Redone, had a tranny shop do it. But the noise was there before the fluid was changed. So far wheel bearings have been ruled out. What about the CV shafts? I heard they can make a grinding noise but they don’t make any noise when turning. What I’m hearing is a very quiet, metal to metal noise that seems to go away or get quieter when the throttle is pressed. Yeah I’ve got a 4x4 version. Is the pillow block hard to get to? Also I’ve been hearing that the alternator pulley can make a noise but that seems to be more of a chirping or squeezing noise than the faint grinding I’m experiencing.


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Discussion Starter #52
I wonder if you could put it up on jackstands and put it in gear, it would be sketchy, but maybe someone inside ready to hit the brakes as you listened to where the noise is coming from...
 

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Quick update guys, after topping up my oil just now, I decided to take a look at the pulleys and hear if I can hear any unusual noises coming from them. There is definitely some chirping going on so I took a closer look down. The pulley which I believe to be the crank pulley is wobbly. Could this be the source of my grinding noise?


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Discussion Starter #54
Quick update guys, after topping up my oil just now, I decided to take a look at the pulleys and hear if I can hear any unusual noises coming from them. There is definitely some chirping going on so I took a closer look down. The pulley which I believe to be the crank pulley is wobbly. Could this be the source of my grinding noise?


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Weird, tighten it up and see what happens. I kinda doubt it, but you may as well start with the easy stuff.
 

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If you drive the front wheels up on ramps and the back wheels onto some 2x8 boards, then slide under the car from the front you can't miss the pillow block. The prop shaft that goes to the rear drive unit (RDU/differential) has a support bearing I'd guess is right below the center console for reference.

CV joints can grind, but they generally get make a clicking noise while turning if they're that dry/worn.

I can't see what you're seeing, but right now I'm really hoping that the noise and wobble is the idler pulley and not the crank pulley. It'd be much cheaper and less technical to replace, and might not even be a problem so long as it's doing it's job (they're supposed to bounce around a bit as the load on the belt changes, kind of like a shock absorber for serpentine belts).

I hate to say it, but my crystal ball still says you should drain and fill the fluid in the PTU. There's a write up around here, I think Todd did it. It's under no load 99% of the time, but still spinning because it's direct-drive off the front differential carrier. The clutch that engages the rear wheels is part of the RDU. If the PTU is spinning dry, it'd dang sure make a grinding noise, but not fail until the RDU engages.
 

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I can't see what you're seeing, but right now I'm really hoping that the noise and wobble is the idler pulley and not the crank pulley. It'd be much cheaper and less technical to replace, and might not even be a problem so long as it's doing it's job (they're supposed to bounce around a bit as the load on the belt changes, kind of like a shock absorber for serpentine belts).

I hate to say it, but my crystal ball still says you should drain and fill the fluid in the PTU. There's a write up around here, I think Todd did it. It's under no load 99% of the time, but still spinning because it's direct-drive off the front differential carrier. The clutch that engages the rear wheels is part of the RDU. If the PTU is spinning dry, it'd dang sure make a grinding noise, but not fail until the RDU engages.
Nope, its definitely the big pulley beside the AC compressor. Its the crank pulley and it is wobbling. I wish I could record it from the top but it's down there too deep. From what I see in the Haynes manual, it looks like a pretty straightforward job, as long as you have a tool to stop the pulley from spinning. I'll get down under the car either tomorrow or Wednesday and see if I can do some diagnosing.
 

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I just got a 08 4x4 for my daughter, it also has a grinding from the transmission, (I think) haven't been able to pinpoint it yet. After watching your video I might try to tackle it my self.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I just got a 08 4x4 for my daughter, it also has a grinding from the transmission, (I think) haven't been able to pinpoint it yet. After watching your video I might try to tackle it my self.


Mine did it all the time when moving. Louder when going faster.


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Mine is the same, at first thought it was a hub bearing, but now thinking it is in the final drive of the transmission.
The noise doesn't change when you turn the wheel to load up the wheel bearings. It runs good, no codes or erratic shifting or slipping so I think it will be my next project.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Ok, I picked up a 2013 the other day, trans issue, I have not driven it yet, but its whining like crazy on start up, 130K on the clock, beautiful condition other than the trans issue. I didnt get any trans codes on the code reader, so Ill take it for a drive to see what it does. They had it hauled to my house.

But the owner said it was slipping pretty bad and wouldn't accelerate properly.

Any requests on this rebuild? Anyone else been fixing these things? Im wondering if this one is just a pump valve issue.

Thanks
 
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