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08' Pat with the Front End Knocking/clunking plague

33K views 28 replies 17 participants last post by  mr_et2 
#1 ·
I've read most of the threads here pertaining to the front end knocking and clunking noise when going over bumps (on the street, not off-road). I've done most all of the suggestions from putting a wrench on all the bolts and checking for tightness, replaced both sides lower ball joints, replaced both sides LCA to Crossmemeber (K-frame) mounting bolts...

Is it possible that there is no solution? I'm having a hard time believing that but with every suggested "remedy" failing to eliminate the knock, I'm starting to believe it.

I know I'm not the only poor SOB with this obnoxious problem. If you have the problem you know exactly what I'm talking about and you know that it's not one of those noises that is, or can be, easily ignored. I'm confident that somebody knows what the solution is (other than turning the radio up louder). One Pat owner to another, Please help solve my problem!
 
#6 ·
Is the clunking sound similar to yours?

Just had the swaybar bushings replaced but it didn't solve the problem..[/quote]

My noise is not nearly as bad but, yes, definitely the same problem most noticeable when driving slowly over bumps (like speed bumps). I'll be doing my front sway bar bushings and end links in a few days. Needed to order the rear bushings and end links so I'll get to those as soon as they arrive.

The noise did get slightly better after I replaced the LCA ball joints. I'll post an update after I replace the bushings and end links. I went with the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings (part# 9.5160R - fronts & 9.5153R - Rears). They should definitely last longer than the factory rubber ones and they are equipped with grease fittings which I think is a great feature. MOOG end links.
 
#7 ·
Bushings and end links done, clunk is GONE and my front end is as tight as [insert innuendo here]! Bushings were toast but the end links were probably ok but I replaced them just because. The MOOG links look/feel/are a better part anyways.

Really a simple job but just a heads-up for someone that is thinking about replacing the end links, if you are dealing with the original factory links and your car is a few years old (mine being an 08') plan on possibly having to cut them off.

Living in New England and driving on salted roads every winter I always expect to battle the rust but DAMN! Sprayed them with the liquid wrench, let it soak in real nice and I was only able to get one of the four nuts off. The problem I was having is that at the end of bolt where you should be able to insert your metric #5 Allen key was so rusted that, after hammering the Allen key into the receiving hole, it would strip out once I put moderate pressure on it by trying to unscrew the 13mm nut. By now I'm starting to think that this is going to turn into one of those "finger through the toilet paper" kind of days. Had to cut the other three off and that was that.

The knew parts went on like a breeze, greased everything up and took the Patriot ( I named mine Mel Gibson) for a drive and it seemed to drive like it did the day I got it. Just need to do the rears and we'll be in good shape.
 
#8 ·
yeah had the same issue with mine had to replace everything lower control arms on both sides sway bar links and bushings. Only noise I hear now is when I hit a deep bump with both tires(think leaving a steep entrance ramp) and I hear this weird creaking noise.
 
#10 ·
did you put a little grease on the sway bar bushings?
 
#12 ·
mine had a clunk from right hand side been getting worse over time, found play in track rod end, could easily move it up and down about 1/8" changed both sides with moog and clunk has obviously gone but now still got a sort of hollow sounding knock over bumps, have ordered lower ball joints and will also replace roll bar links and bushes, with all moog. oh and car had only done 7,500 miles when knock started. never been off road in its life. roads in england must be really bad!
 
#13 ·
I'm wondering if this is affecting diesel owners the worst, cause of the extra weight of the engine. Mine has clunked badly for two years (that hollow sounding crack) but there is no evidence of damage. It just sounds terrible. New control arms changed nothing. I think it is the sway bar bushings going brittle or suffering under engine weight.
 
#14 ·
I've quickly learned that eliminating a front end clunk can become a matter of trial and error and cost can quickly add up. There are numerous things that could be causing the noise but no definitive way of pinpointing exactly where its coming from.
The sway bar bushings is a good place to start.
Upgrading to a pair of good quality bushings is cheap and it's an easy fix.
 
#15 ·
there is a thread around here explaining about power steering pipes under the vehicle vibrating and creating the crack noise when turning and hitting a bump.
the problem is solved by using a rubber power hose part.
andrea from italy did it and i followed,maybe others as well.
no more crack sound since then.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Can't answer ijeep's question, but I am VERY PLEASED to report that I recently replaced the sway bar links on my 2008 jeep patriot sport 4wd, and my death clunk in the front end is GONE... been slowly working through different sloppy parts in my suspension (having gone through control arms of almost every variety, tie rods, ball joints, toe links), and FINALLY got the clunk with the sway bar links.

what is amazing to me is that the wheels felt REALLY tight on jack stands when i manhandled them, but nonetheless, the suspension felt sloppy on the road (and of course sounded like garbage on slow bumps/dirt roads). the bushings were TOTALLY shot, but it was hard for me to really tell until they were off. very glad to finally get this taken care of. not a hard job i should add.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Turns out that you DO need to disconnect the sway bar link to replace the bushing [bolted to the cross-member].

Tip, the bushing will go in better if you put alternating turns on the bolts, so that they go down uniformly with the securing plate.

The [front] sway bar link is removed by loading the suspension, by way of placing a car jack under the wheel hub. I positioned my jack under the control arm/ball joint assembly. As you do this, the upper link will align to a point where the stud can freely glide through it's attach point.

The securing bolts for the links are prone to rust, just give them some penetrating lube and secure the #5 Allen into the hex - while letting the arm of the Allen rest against something that will stop it from turning out as you put a wrench on the surrounding nut.

CAKE.

If you are replacing the sway bar link - don't bother trying to wrench the lower connection, just cut it. It'll be faster. (That's if you're in a region where salt is used, as you'll likely find these bolts to be badly corroded). If you're going to replace your LCA/ball-joint [and plan to replace the sway bar links] it's easier to deal with the lower link connection when the LCA is dropped down and out of the way.
 
#20 ·
Just getting ready to do my lower control arms and ball joints on my 2011 patriot sport after 58k 'miles. Didn't expect this at inspection time, and definitely didn't expect the $675 estimate for parts and labor. I have been searching for DIY threads and found limited stuff out there. Tried looking around here and found one from an 08 patriot and a YouTube from a dodge caliber. Seems pretty straight forward. I thought I'd share my experience. I found the control arms on amazon for $89/ea instead of chryslers $220/ea. I had no noise, clunk or otherwise really to lead me to think anything was wrong in the front end.
 
#21 ·
Just getting ready to do my lower control arms and ball joints...

The job is not that bad, if you don't have air tools this can be done with a breaker bar + liquid wrench. Be mindful that the drive shaft doesn't slip out of the trans (you'll know if it does - It'll dribble a bit of lube).

I think I know the youtube video (by ShawnCFarm). Anyhow, same configuration.
 
#28 ·
Ihave
I've read most of the threads here pertaining to the front end knocking and clunking noise when going over bumps (on the street, not off-road). I've done most all of the suggestions from putting a wrench on all the bolts and checking for tightness, replaced both sides lower ball joints, replaced both sides LCA to Crossmemeber (K-frame) mounting bolts...

Is it possible that there is no solution? I'm having a hard time believing that but with every suggested "remedy" failing to eliminate the knock, I'm starting to believe it.

I know I'm not the only poor SOB with this obnoxious problem. If you have the problem you know exactly what I'm talking about and you know that it's not one of those noises that is, or can be, easily ignored. I'm confident that somebody knows what the solution is (other than turning the radio up louder). One Pat owner to another, Please help solve my problem!
My wife has a '17 Patriot, i've replaced lower control arms/ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar bushings, stabilizer links & struts. Still have a knocking when hitting bumps, it's driving me crazy.
 
#29 ·
Sway bar bushings were the cause of my knocking sounds when hitting bumps. Also, when you replace the sway bar bushings, it's very easy to install the bar slightly off-center. If it's not perfectly centered, the end links can hit the control arms, causing loud knocking.
 
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