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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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radio static

For a while now no radio stations would come in.

I can be in Albany NY or New York city and 3 stations would come in and two will be full of static. I am at the second dealer trying get this issue resolved. They say there is no Active code. There was a pending code saying the antenna WAS disconnected. The first dealer said, "Nope we get stations, bye" and I was too defeted to get them to do anything. I had other repairs I had to fight to get them to work on.

The second dealer said they can't replace parts w/o an ACTIVE code. They can't even test with a "test antenna"

Last edited by thesavo; 09-25-2018 at 04:15 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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I spoke with fiat Chrysler corporate. After dealing with one rep denying that I have max care, I got escalated to another rep. Jeep support is going to have dealer open a STAR Case with corporate.

Updates to come.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 12:53 PM
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I don't suppose you are using any LED bulbs? Believe it or not, LED bulbs can cause noise in the radio. Try turning your lights off and see if it improves.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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All incandescent bulbs installed.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesavo View Post
All incandescent bulbs installed.
Well, in that case--when all else fails with electrical issues--it's time to check ALL the grounds. There's a gob of wires under the battery box which become infected by battery residue. I'd start there! Get a good VOM, and check for proper continuity from frame to engine to battery, etc. for a start. Could also be something obvious once battery box is removed. Good Luck!


Jack Allwardt, Bonney Lake (Tehaleh area), WA; "recovering Californian"; (REPEAT Patriot Owner...'08 Limited and a '16 High Altitude), Retired engineer, US Army veteran, Amateur radio General Class Licensee: K6SNS, Member: American Legion, Veterans of Foreign Wars, Central Valley Vietnam Veterans, Enumclaw (WA) Lions Club. Former vintage military jeep owner, instrument rated commercial pilot, ag pilot, vintage aircraft restorer and test pilot.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018, 04:47 PM
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Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?

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I don't suppose you are using any LED bulbs? Believe it or not, LED bulbs can cause noise in the radio. Try turning your lights off and see if it improves.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a video of what it did last night. Now intermittent no audio. Until it comes back.

My wife took this video


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-08-2018, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like the tuner chip is failing. Bt, CD, SAT all work fine. Tuner went from from static reception to no audio.
Unit has RES in the right corner

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Last edited by thesavo; 10-08-2018 at 10:35 PM.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croat View Post
Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?
Well, while I wouldn't want to match wits with someone with a considerable 20+ yrs of experience changing light bulbs, I would hate to see them watch a 30 sec video of hogwash or look at the results of a 20 sec google search.
A lot of new vehicles are utilizing HID, not LED. I also cant seem to remember which model patriot came with factory LED?


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croat View Post
Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?
Standard bulbs. I replaced one of "fog" light bulbs. I used a standard part number 2504. Those are expensive.

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Last edited by thesavo; 10-26-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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So they replaced the radio back in the fall. The reception has been been better. It's been slowly getting bad after the warranty expired. I have since bought the service manual and found this.

I had to argue with corporate to get this new radio b/c the dumb techs "couldn't reproduce the issue".

I have since replaced the factory spark plugs with NGK V-Power Spark Plug Part No: 2262. I am told this is the correct part. Should I be using mopar plugs instead?



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Last edited by thesavo; 06-01-2019 at 08:05 PM.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 08:41 PM
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The resistor type plugs will have an R in their model like ZFR5F-11. Doesn't matter whether they are Mopar or NGK. Mopar plugs are just rebranded NGKs anyhow. As long as the specs are the same it doesn't matter.

Accessories:
Mopar deluxe splash guards (front/rear)
Mopar production cross bars
E2 14" black antenna

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure. That's not the part number I got. I will pull one and check. But the listing AAP's site calls them part 2262 ngk v power. I'll check and see if they are the same as ZFR5F-11


Looks they they are supposed to be it. 2262 is the item number for part number ZFR5F-11
Should I pull them and check then with an DVOM, and make sure they read 10 K ohm?

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10210

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Last edited by thesavo; 06-02-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 11:00 AM
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Unless you're having a problem with the plugs I'm sure they're fine. Change them or at the very least check for wear on the electrode and regap at the service interval.

ZFR5F-11 are the plugs for the car. So if that's what you have in and they are running without codes or some weird stumble/hesitation/or other problem than you're fine.

Mopar lists the plug as SP0ZFR5F-11 with a 0.43 gap whereas the NGKs are just ZFR5F-11 with a 0.44 gap.

Both work the same and the SP0 at the front of the Mopar one just signifies the gap change (or stands for spark plug zero difference lol) - which I've tried both ways and it makes no difference. Just a way for them to get people into buying they're plugs because they are different and "special"

Accessories:
Mopar deluxe splash guards (front/rear)
Mopar production cross bars
E2 14" black antenna

Mod.:
ATC [In progress... ]

JEEP FORUM - CANADA

"... I resisited a very strong urge to invert the kid, debag him and run my MasterCard up and down his rectal chasm till his backside got magnetic ..."

- Incompetence by Rob Grant (Book)

Last edited by LouOfTheJeep; 06-02-2019 at 11:14 AM.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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OK. Well the vehicle doesn't seem to have any ignition problems. I should concentrate on the antenna mast, a loose ground and check the capacitor.
I'll copy paste the radio reception section from the service manual here for future reference. I'll add a final post if I figure out the cause of the problem.

Note: thses posts look best in the web view.

Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING


DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
The following four tests are used to diagnose the antenna with an ohmmeter:
  • TEST 1 - Mast to ground test
  • TEST 2 - Tip-of-mast to tip-of-conductor test
  • TEST 3 - Body ground to battery ground test
  • TEST 4 - Body ground to antenna coaxial cable shield test.

The ohmmeter test lead connections for each test are shown in the illustration.

WARNING: Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, seat belt tensioner, side airbag or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable. Wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to follow these instructions may result in accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury.

NOTE: This model has a two-piece antenna coaxial cable. Tests 2 and 4 must be conducted in two steps to isolate an antenna cable problem.
First, test the primary antenna cable (integral to the antenna body and cable) from the coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel to the antenna body.
Then, test the secondary antenna cable (instrument panel antenna cable) from the coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel to the coaxial cable connector at the radio.


Fig. 5: Ohmmeter Test Lead Connections Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC

TEST 1
Test 1 determines if the antenna mast is insulated from ground. Proceed as
follows:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast (below tip if ball tip is plastic). Touch the other test lead to the antenna cap nut. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Test 2. If not OK, replace the faulty antenna body and cable.

TEST 2
Test 2 checks the antenna conductor components for an open circuit. This test should be performed first on the entire antenna circuit, from the antenna mast to the center conductor of the coaxial cable connector at the radio. If an open circuit is detected, each of the three antenna conductor components (antenna mast, antenna body and primary cable unit, instrument panel antenna secondary cable) should be isolated and tested individually to locate the exact component that is the source of the open circuit. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
  1. Disconnect the instrument panel (secondary) antenna cable coaxial connector from the back of the radio.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Touch the other test lead to the center conductor pin of the instrument panel antenna cable coaxial connector for the radio. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register only a fraction of an ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a damaged or open antenna conductor. If OK, go to Test 3. If not OK, isolate and test each of the individual antenna conductor components. Replace only the faulty antenna conductor component.

TEST 3
Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body ground connection. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
  1. This test must be performed with the battery positive cable disconnected from the battery. Disconnect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable first.
  2. Reconnect the battery negative cable.
  3. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test lead to the battery negative terminal post. Check
    the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  4. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
    damaged connection between the battery negative terminal and the vehicle body. If OK, go to Test 4. If not OK, check the battery negative cable connection to the vehicle body and the radio noise suppression ground strap connections to the engine and the vehicle body for being loose or corroded. Clean or tighten these connections as required.

TEST 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the connection between the antenna coaxial cable
shield and the vehicle body ground as follows:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or damaged connection between the antenna body and the vehicle body or between the antenna body and the antenna coaxial cable shield. If not OK, clean the antenna body to fender mating surfaces and tighten the antenna cap nut to specifications.
  4. Check the resistance again with an ohmmeter. If the resistance is still more then one ohm, replace the faulty antenna body and cable.

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Last edited by thesavo; 06-03-2019 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Add table
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