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Spark Plugs

40K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  theGarinator 
#1 ·
I read the my 2016 Patriot owners manual and read plugs should be replaced at 30k miles. Is there a longer lasting Platinum plug that people are running that will go longer?
 
#2 ·
A patriot comes with copper plugs. copper plugs should be replaced at about 30k miles. You can put in a platinum (70k miles) or iridium (100k miles), but your engine was designed to run on copper plugs. They take like 5 minutes to change out, and unless you drive a ton of miles, that's 5 minutes every 2-3 years... and the cost is negligible.

I've put longer running plugs in my other cars that require a half a day to replace them, or half an engine disassembly. but on an inline 4? where they are right there on top, and all you have to do is remove that plastic cover? I would stick with copper personally, and change them ever 30K miles.
 
#10 ·
Ditto! Once you define the correct tools, it takes less than 15 minutes--which allows for hand cleaner, etc.
 
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#3 ·
I bought Champion double-platinums for $25(for 4 of them), and they've lasted quite a bit. They also are cheaper per mile, as I understand it. Granted, that's roughly $15 for coppers vs $25 for an upgrade, and something you only do once every few years. But every little bit helps, right? Besides, it's a fun way to do a mildly unusual mod that might(I'm hardly an expert) make the engine spark a little cleaner.
 
#6 ·
In some engines that is definitely the case (the old Jeep 4.0L I6 is famous for running like crap on anything but copper), but I haven't seen anything to indicate this is an issue on the GEMA world engine (most modern engines, especially those with coil on plug ignition have no issues with platinum/iridium plugs) and since the 2 other automakers (Hyundai and Mitsubishi) using variants of that engine used iridium from the factory it is likely that Chrysler's use of copper was likely more of a cost saving measure than anything else. As others said changing the plugs on a Patriot is easy enough that there isn't any real reason to use longer life plugs (unless you're paying someone to do it then the labor savings would add up quick, or just don't like changing plugs), but they are unlikely to cause any issues either.
 
#7 ·
Time is money for me ... well that is when I have the time lol!
I save time and money by putting iridiums in once every 100,000 miles.
 
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#12 ·
i dunno, takes me at least 30 minutes. you have to:

1) get tools ready-
magnetic socjket and ratchet with extensions to emove plugs
tx-bit to remove the hold down for the coils
torque wrench
dialextic grease for boots

2)yank the cover off

3)gap the plugs

4)unbolt the coils

5) remove a coil.

6) unscrew a plug

7) insert new plug and torque to 20 ft/lbs

8) repeat steps 3-7 for the other 3.

9)reconnect the coils and bolt down.

10) replace engine cover.

point is, it takes way way more than 5 minutes..LOL..
 
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#13 ·
and i always use the copper ngk's that the manual calls for and replace them at 20k miles or so versus 30k miles...
 
#14 ·
I just put Bosch Platinum in mine about a month ago. I went to get new spark plugs and Advance auto parts had the bosch platinum plugs on sale for what the copper plugs cost. So, I figured I would try it out. No messages or codes (other GEMA engines are using platinum or iridium from factory), runs fine, no increase in MPG or performance. Nothing magical happening here.
Use whatever spark plugs you want that are listed as compatible for your engine.
Will the platinum plugs last longer than the copper plugs? I guess I'll find out....
 
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#16 · (Edited)
Torquing Down Plugs

Hello All!

I have fresh spark plugs to put in my 2008 4x2 Patriot North 5 spd Manual.
Also, have this spark plug tune up kit that comes with this huge ratchet.

there are 215000km on it and I have no idea how the guy cared for it, who I bought it from.

1. Do the new plugs need to be torqued down? or can I wrench tighten on the interim? till I get a torque wrench?

2. Should I put anti seize on the threads. I've seen negative things said about anti-seize on spark plug threads.

3. Is it a good idea to put dielectric grease around the ceramic of the plug before replacing the cap?

Thanks,

Gary.
 
#17 ·
There are several spark plug threads on here. You can use the search box at the right end of the green menu bar above and enter your key words for a search.

For torque, JeepCares posted this page: https://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33434&d=1403271446
It is post #11 on this thread: https://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/15-engine-drivetrain/240297-spark-plug-torque-spec.html
Thats for a 2007 but it was posted in 2014. I presume the specs haven't changed from year to year.

Personally I tend to under-torque and I use anti-sieze because I want to get them out of there some day! Opinions differ; up to you.

I've never used dielectric grease on plugs, but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

Helpful hint: I use the coil-pack (or maybe try some flexible tubing) to get the plug started in order to minimize the risk of cross threading.
 
#19 ·
I'm still not sure how to start a new thread that's why I posted here.

Gary
To start a new thread, go the the left end of the green menu bar and choose <Forums> then from the drop-down menu choose <Jeep Patriot> then in this case you would choose <Engine and Drivetrain>. There is a little black balloon about half-way down on the left that says "New Thread." Click on that and off you go. Note that you must choose a subject/title for your new thread.
 
#20 · (Edited)
theGarinator,

Regarding anti seize on spark plugs, the only consensus is that there is no consensus! From newbies to experience old pros, the debate rages on.

- It does lower the coefficient of friction, so you have to be a bit more careful tightening them up. Permatex denies this.
- NGK (and most mfg.) claims their plating acts as a anti seize and no other is recommended.
- Old timers will relate ruined threads when it is NOT used. Ford recommended it in their troublesome truck application where the plugs broke off.

IF you decide to use it, only a tiny bit is needed, about the size of a grain or two of rice. Don't slather it all over nor get it on the tip. Excessive use can cause problems: tip contamination, reduced electrical contact, heat transfer, etc.. My personal opinion is to use it sparingly IF you are installing high mileage plugs (over 60,000 miles). The conventional plugs changed every 30,000 miles are probably o.k. without it.

Definitely use dielectric grease, a small amount spread inside the rubber boot with an ear swab. Be VERY careful removing the plastic clip that releases the coil wire. I wrecked a stuck one by breaking off the tiny tab.

Tightening the plugs without a torque wrench is doable if you have "the feel". Lots of internet and Youtube articles showing the Patriot plug change
 
#21 · (Edited)
theGarinator,

Tightening the plugs without a torque wrench is doable if you have "the feel". Lots of internet and Youtube articles showing the Patriot plug change
If you're an average size person, grasp the wrench at the socket end, that way you won't apply too much torque without using a torque wrench. We old time aircraft mechanics use this procedure (tongue-in-cheek), tighten until it begins to strip, then back off 1/4 turn.....

However, I do remember some a/c engines torque specs on the crankshaft/connecting rods were to "tighten until the bolt stretched .006"..."
 
#22 · (Edited)
When engines were less sophisticated my rule of thumb was to snug up the plugs finger tight (virtually impossible on these but I suppose you could use an extension without a ratchet) then go 3/4 turn tighter. That was for older engines with cast iron heads. In those days we changed our plugs every 10,000 miles so it was a pretty regular thing. Maybe up till 1980 or so when longer-life plugs became available.

Since I have a real torque wrench I've been using it and torquing to spec. I did notice that the first time I changed the factory plugs it took a LOT of torque to get them loose. Scary amount of torque. I think if you go back far enough on the threads to maybe 2009 I may have recorded the torque reading -- or maybe that was on my next set of plugs -- I forget. I was honestly afraid I was in deep doo-doo but they did come loose. So that is why I use anti-sieze.

Ah yes, my torque wrench is probably an antique. I still have the original box with torque specs and tightening patterns for lots of old engines: Nash, Studebaker, DeSoto, Packard, Hudson and Willys, besides the names still around today.
 
#23 ·
Thanks for ALL the feedback!

We're having 18ºC (64ºF) temperature today. May try it. Appreciate the info on taking them out too. I have no idea when these were last changed. I sure love the sound of one poster's jeep engine after he changed his plugs.


Hope this works. I'm doing it in my parking space, so if something goes wrong, well, hope nothing goes wrong. Shouldn't with all the help you folks offered. Thanks again.

Gary
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the advice, folks,

I got the new plugs installed. I hand tightened snug, then wrench tightened till the washer grabbed, then added a bit more tension, like less than an eighth of a turn, I figured. I didn't put dielectric on the ceramic though.

Then engine sounds quieter over all, especially driving locally.

When I was out on the highway and was accelerating, there was kind of a noticeable chain-ey sound that stopped when I stopped accelerating. Idling in the parking space, the engine is much quieter.

I was thinking of removing the coils and seeing if the spark plugs had loosened just to make sure they are snug..

The engine ran rough when I started it up this a.m. So, I took out the plugs (they unscrewed far too easily, plugs must have jimmied loose on the highway yesterday) put on some dielectric around the ceramic and replaced them, but quite a bit tighter.


Thanks again.

Gary
 
#26 ·
Thanks for all the advice, folks,

I got the new plugs installed. I hand tightened snug, then wrench tightened till the washer grabbed, then added a bit more tension, like less than an eighth of a turn, I figured . . .
. . . I was thinking of removing the coils and seeing if the spark plugs had loosened just to make sure they are snug..

The engine ran rough when I started it up this a.m. So, I took out the plugs (they unscrewed far too easily, plugs must have jimmied loose on the highway yesterday) put on some dielectric around the ceramic and replaced them, but quite a bit tighter.
I doubt 1/8 turn after snug was tight enough.
 
#27 ·
got warm enough today to drop the oil for the first time and change the plugs
as I had no idea if they were the factory plugs or not
it has 87k on it and by the look of these they could be stock, but did they come with NGKs ?

the gap was out to around .06 "
i put in

at a .045" gap with a tiny spooge of anti seize (we have a XJ so I have a big jug of it :)
the thing had a occasional mid speed/mid load "hic" (light accel on a ramp or leaving a stop light)
we have a longer than normal for us trip this weekend, so will see the results

and nobody told me I needed a filter wrench!
so it got fresh oil on the old filter.
 
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