Jeep Patriot Forums banner

225/75/16 Wrangler Territory Tires on Stock 16" Rims Now with 100% more pics!

57K views 48 replies 23 participants last post by  goser  
#1 · (Edited)
So after being torn on what tire to get, the final straw came when crappy tire had their buy 1 get 1 for 1/2 price deal.

I decided to go with the Goodyear Wrangler Territory in LT225/75/16

Here's the specs of my jeep:

Stock height FDII using the patriot 16" steel wheels.

As you can see in the pictures no problems clearance wise on the spring perch as well as that little piece of plastic in the wheel well.

They do rub at full lock although since they clear the above mentioned obstacles I don't know where it is rubbing, not a big deal at all and it doesn't bother me either.

In terms of ride and handling, they are loud, not like a humming loud but its more of a whoosh type sound, similar to a set of winter tires I had on a previous vehicle. The noise isn't that bad altough for a daily driver some people might find it a bit much. They are heavier than the stock setup although I havn't noticed any adverse effects. Speedo is off I presume but not a big deal either.

As for performance offroad, they have been on for about 2 hours, and as you can see my Pat is rather clean at the moment, later tonight or tomorrow i'll go hunting for some mud to see how they perform.

So in my opinion, 225/75/16 fit on an unlifted FDII and most likely FDI rather nicely.




Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Anyone got a set of center caps they want to sell? Or can I just use a set off a libery ect...
 
#6 ·
I saw that ad too! Probably would have gone the same way, had I not gone to Portland for tires.

at 29.3", they probably need the plastic bump melted out of the way a little, but I think you'll be OK not needing to do anything with the metal under it.

Nice!
 
#7 ·
Alright so I must be blind as a bat but I couldn't find the treadwear rating or the traction rating ect that is usually on the sidewall of tires, I hope I can get around 50K out of them, which will take forever because they won't be on year round.

As for the plastic part in the fender I'm probably going to have to cut it away, no big deal.

I can only imagine that I'll be going out and getting really stuck this week to test the tires out:pepper:
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
That's a pretty aggressive tread pattern for an all-terrain tire. Looks almost like a mud-terrain tire to me. :) Do let us know how they perform.
 
#14 · (Edited)
NICE TIRES! :D

That's the size I went with on my Compass, using the 16" steels from a Patriot with BFG M/T's. It rode SOOOOO much better AND was great in the snow. I had NO rubbing issue on the Compass but the Patriot is slightly different in the shape of the wheel openings so I can't speak for it. If you do have some, it should be minimal and can be easily 'fixed'.

I wasn't aware of the Wrangler "Territory"s or I may have gone that route if for no other reason, the PRICE!

As for center caps, I would go with the ones from a 16" steel KJ wheel OR even off of a 15" steel TJ wheel. Not sure on the KJ caps, but I know the TJ's will fit with slight mods and the drilling of 3 holes in your wheels. They both would look SOOOOOO MUCH BETTER than the stock Patriot caps.

Again, NICE CHOICE on your tires!!! :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#15 ·
I've been rather busy today but my Pat didn't stay clean for very long. I found a small area with a bit of mud, although nothing too crazy so I'm sure I didn't test out the true ability of the tires, but i'm very impressed.

They clean out the mud very well and don't seem to get too caked up, they actually throw it pretty good, from the small amount of time I had to play.

I did get some video's, they are still uploading, and they aren't anything special, but here's the first dirty pic of the Pat with its new shoes.

Image
 
#18 ·
will these tires work for a unlifted 4x2 with 16 inch rims?
 
#19 ·
I can't see why they wouldn't work, the lift from the FDII (1/2" spring wise) isn't making any extra room in the wheel well as far as tires this size are concerned.

The only rubbing is a tiny bit before full lock, but other than that not too bad, one warning though is that they are a bit on the loud side.
 
#20 ·
So now i've got a question for the tire guru's out there, I asked my neighbor (guy who installed the tires for me) what pressure he's using in the tires and he said he put 60 PSI in. Now the tires are rated for 80 PSI max, i'm just wondering if I should be running the 35 stated on the door, or does that all change because i'm using a 10 ply (load range E tire) Obviously for serious off-roading i'll be reducing the pressure, I just want to know what to run on the street.
 
#21 ·
good question. I wonder if tirerack or a manufacturer's site might have that info.

my Grabber AT's are rated 44 psi max, and my tire installer put in 36 psi.

60 seems high to me. overinflating can cause the treads to be rounded, contacting more in the middle and wearing out the centre of the treads.
 
#22 ·
http://www.betiresmart.ca/inflation/proper.asp?loc1=inflation&loc2=proper

The pressure listed on the tire sidewall is the maximum tire pressure - or the tire pressure that is required to carry the maximum load of the tire. It is not the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure, which is a common misperception.


Over-inflation can be a problem too. An over-inflated tire rides on just the centre portion of the tread. The smaller contact area means reduced grip on the road, leading to a harsh ride, handling issues (such as steering and stopping problems) and increased wear on tires and suspension components. Seventeen per cent (17%) of vehicles in Canada have at least one tire that is over-inflated by 20%
 
#23 ·
Correct tire pressure?

I have read somewhere great instructions on how to find a correct pressure when using much higher load rated tires then your OEM tires:

Make a line across the thread on your tires and drive straight and slight curves slowly for a while. Check if the line is rubbing of faster on the outside or in the center of the thread. Outside means under inflated, center means over inflated. Start with your car recommended pressure and chances are you will need to add more PSI to compensate for the higher load rated tire to get them to run on the whole thread evenly. You can continue to add pressure (not over tire maximum) until you clearly see the line wearing faster in the center (over inflated for your vehicle weight). Correct pressure for your vehicle should be somewhere in the middle of both extreme results.

I have not tested this procedure myself (I will do it with my new Firestone Destination 235/65/17 soon), but at least the theory is sound and it may actually work! I would love to see some reply posts from other Pat owners who are running various upsized load overrated tires.
 
#29 ·
I have read somewhere great instructions on how to find a correct pressure when using much higher load rated tires then your OEM tires:

Make a line across the thread on your tires and drive straight and slight curves slowly for a while. Check if the line is rubbing of faster on the outside or in the center of the thread. Outside means under inflated, center means over inflated. Start with your car recommended pressure and chances are you will need to add more PSI to compensate for the higher load rated tire to get them to run on the whole thread evenly. You can continue to add pressure (not over tire maximum) until you clearly see the line wearing faster in the center (over inflated for your vehicle weight). Correct pressure for your vehicle should be somewhere in the middle of both extreme results.

I have not tested this procedure myself (I will do it with my new Firestone Destination 235/65/17 soon), but at least the theory is sound and it may actually work! I would love to see some reply posts from other Pat owners who are running various upsized load overrated tires.
Perhaps there is a way to do this mathematically...

You could look up the max weight ratings (in lbs) of both your stock and new (larger) tires on their respective manufacturer websites. This is the loading that would correspond to the max pressure printed on the side of the tire.

Step 1: Starting with the stock tire specs, divide the door sticker pressure (vehicle recommended pressure) by the max allowable tire pressure (from the side wall of the tire). Now, multiply that ratio by the max weight rating for that tire. This will give you a calculated "effective" weight that correlates to the tire pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Step 2: Using the calculated "effective" tire loading from Step 1, divide this calculated value by the max weight rating of the new tire. This will tell you what percentage of the new tire's loading capability you will actually be using. Finally, multiply this value by the max pressure for the new tire (from teh tire sidewall). This should tell you what pressure you need to run the new tires at to carry the same loading that the original tires carried.

I just made this up on the fly, so I have no idea how well it works, but it just seems logical that it would work if you assume that the load carrying ability of the tire alone (without air in it) is negligible. Of course, we all know that such a tire without air in it would be as flat as a pancake, so I think it is a reasonable assumption.

-SR-
 
#24 ·
Yeah, the chalk test. Unfortunately, as I've understood it, this should be done with new tires only.
 
#27 ·