Sound proofing

[Metaxa]

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Ahem....

[cmoore]

Originally Posted by Metaxa

Ahem....

I don't have Facebook... Someone go get her picture =)


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[Metaxa]

OK, I've been thinking about this and I really don't see much difference between soundproofing a music studio and a car.

Except the car is way more trouble I'd bet.
Back in the day I did some roadie work for various bands and I often booked music into my restaurants...so I have observed sound men and etc as they grappled with this or that.

Plus new code says that whenever you duplex or suite a house you have to do sound attenuation between units and I have watched as tradesmen have performed that in rentals for us.

I think (and Tracie, please correc5t me if I'm wrong) that the sound deadeners like gmat and dyna mat don't need to go wall to wall but rather in strips and chunks on the boingy areas.
Then you want an isolation membrane that does go wall to wall. Closed cell flooring underlayment is what I've seen used. It acts as a decoupler between the deadener (gmat) and the barrier. Now, in housing, the barrier is sound rated drywall and acoustical sealants but we did use mass loaded vinyl around electrical outlets and ducts and stuff,

Mass loaded vinyl weighs a pound or so per square foot...it is heavy so you probably only want to use it very judiciously in your vehicle.

You sound proofing guys need to think in layers, using more than just the one product I think.

When we sound proof a basement suite it is mineral wool insulation into cavities that have been generously sealed with acoustical sealant and then sound rated drywall hung on resilient channels so it isn't touching the joists or the insulation. Three layers.

Same with side to side duplexing...gotta break up the sound transmission lines and you do that with decoupling membranes and lots and lots of acoustical sealant and mass loaded vinyl wrapping anything that penetrates...like electrical lines, boxes, heat ducts, etc.

I think if I was to embark on something like this I'd use less of the peel and stick mat but use it more judiciously...then cover the entire panel or area with that floor underlay, make sure it is closed cell foam, and use that new red tape they use in construction...it sticks and lasts forever. I'd then see if that got me what I wanted and if not then I'd look into a top coat of mass loaded vinyl.

Damn...this is going to become my next project...I can tell.
You folks are very bad...I came here a year ago not needing anything on my Patriot and here I am, short antenna, blacked out emblems, de-badged and etc.

Now I'm going to spend even more to make it quieter.
But I'm going to do it out of Home Depot...

[cmoore]

Originally Posted by Metaxa

OK, I've been thinking about this and I really don't see much difference between soundproofing a music studio and a car.

Except the car is way more trouble I'd bet.
Back in the day I did some roadie work for various bands and I often booked music into my restaurants...so I have observed sound men and etc as they grappled with this or that.

Plus new code says that whenever you duplex or suite a house you have to do sound attenuation between units and I have watched as tradesmen have performed that in rentals for us.

I think (and Tracy, please correc5t me if I'm wrong) that the sound deadeners like gmat and dyna mat don't need to go wall to wall but rather in strips and chunks on the boingy areas.
Then you want an isolation membrane that does go wall to wall. Closed cell flooring underlayment is what I've seen used. It acts as a decoupler between the deadener (gmat) and the barrier. Now, in housing, the barrier is sound rated drywall and acoustical sealants but we did use mass loaded vinyl around electrical outlets and ducts and stuff,

Mass loaded vinyl weighs a pound or so per square foot...it is heavy so you probably only want to use it very judiciously in your vehicle.

You sound proofing guys need to think in layers, using more than just the one product I think.

When we sound proof a basement suite it is mineral wool insulation into cavities that have been generously sealed with acoustical sealant and then sound rated drywall hung on resilient channels so it isn't touching the joists or the insulation. Three layers.

Same with side to side duplexing...gotta break up the sound transmission lines and you do that with decoupling membranes and lots and lots of acoustical sealant and mass loaded vinyl wrapping anything that penetrates...like electrical lines, boxes, heat ducts, etc.

I think if I was to embark on something like this I'd use less of the peel and stick mat but use it more judiciously...then cover the entire panel or area with that floor underlay, make sure it is closed cell foam, and use that new red tape they use in construction...it sticks and lasts forever. I'd then see if that got me what I wanted and if not then I'd look into a top coat of mass loaded vinyl.

Damn...this is going to become my next project...I can tell.
You folks are very bad...I came here a year ago not needing anything on my Patriot and here I am, short antenna, blacked out emblems, de-badged and etc.

Now I'm going to spend even more to make it quieter.
But I'm going to do it out of Home Depot...

Agreed. When sound proofing our studios, we use wood frames filled with fiberglass insulation, topped with black mesh. It is one of the cheapest and most effective methods. Because of fiberglass's structure it breaks sounds waves down essentially. It's dense in strands so to speak.

We did use wool also, but the fiberglass is both cheaper and more effective. The only real noise I have now is from my tires. While I know it won't be eliminated because of the type of tire, I would like to see an 8-10 db drop. About half as loud. I no longer have the wind noise and cars passing are barely audible. (Thanks tracie)

I want to add a rubberized coating that's durable to the wheel wells in the front. I have achieved about 4-6 db drop so far.

I would do layers, but there is simply not enough room behind the panels to add a layer that's thick enough to have anymore effectiveness...

However, the floors could be done... And it would make the carpet nice and squishy so that is a thought.

My goal right now is the wheel well. The more I can deaden closer to the source the more effective it will be. So I'm thinking spray on bed liner. Or brush on... Might be able to get it thicker... Hmmmm


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[Tracie@GTMat]

Originally Posted by cmoore

Is it applicable on the exterior of vehicles?


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Yes it is, but we do not have testing information as to how well it holds up against the elements. I have a few samples out to the fellas over at the Can-Am Commander forum for exterior placement testing. I'd be happy to pass that info along once I have it available.

Originally Posted by Metaxa

I think (and Tracy, please correc5t me if I'm wrong) that the sound deadeners like gmat and dyna mat don't need to go wall to wall but rather in strips and chunks on the boingy areas.
Then you want an isolation membrane that does go wall to wall. Closed cell flooring underlayment is what I've seen used. It acts as a decoupler between the deadener (gmat) and the barrier. Now, in housing, the barrier is sound rated drywall and acoustical sealants but we did use mass loaded vinyl around electrical outlets and ducts and stuff,

Mass loaded vinyl weighs a pound or so per square foot...it is heavy so you probably only want to use it very judiciously in your vehicle.

You sound proofing guys need to think in layers, using more than just the one product I think.

You are correct sir. We are actually launching a new butyl based mat within a few weeks and are even looking into adding a foam product as well. I'm still learning a lot about this so I won't have all the answers.

[cmoore]

tracie is quite the attractive one...

and yes ma'am please pass that info along

and one more thing.. where do I need to write my review of the product?

[Tracie@GTMat]

Originally Posted by cmoore

tracie is quite the attractive one...

and yes ma'am please pass that info along

and one more thing.. where do I need to write my review of the product?

I'm sure the guys here would appreciate a review of any product. We are asking that reviews be posted on our Amazon pages so that we build our brand search results. These can be found by searching Amazon.com for GTMat.
I will be sure to pass on the exterior test results as soon as I have them.

[Tracie@GTMat]

Our free promotion is ending soon guys. Get yours while you can: 1-855-GTSOUND

[Doc]

So...how'd it work out?


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[cmoore]

With only the mat it definitely helped with some road noise. Probably about 4-6 db. If you have regular tires. (Not noisy ones) it would probably do even better. It did great on wind and other road noise. And it still did help. I was averaging about 90 db in the cabin. I am down to 84-86 on average. Some peaks in the 90s. But very few. I'm going to coat the inside of my wheel wells and see how it affects the cabin


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[Tracie@GTMat]

Any new results out there?

[csowers]

Originally Posted by Tracie@GTMat

Any new results out there?

Tracie, is this promotion for the free 10 SF still going on? Thanks!

[tt1]

Yeah i was also wondering about the results, what ended up happening?

[cmoore]

Mine remains the same conclusion about a 4-6 db improvement. Also using a rubberized coating in the wheel wells and underneath helped.


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[Tracie@GTMat]

Originally Posted by csowers

Tracie, is this promotion for the free 10 SF still going on? Thanks!

We have ended the promotion at this time. We have some new items coming in at the end of this week so keep your eyes peeled on our Facebook page. Thanks for the participation fellas! I'm still antsy to know if anyone tried the Liqui-Damp X on anything. I'll check back in here later.