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How to mount the lights to the bumper?

27K views 51 replies 15 participants last post by  kbfurlong 
#1 ·
OK, ive read a bunch of threads, and did some searchs and found how to remove the bumper: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6291 as well as info regarding a bush guard install with fog/driving lights on the bumper: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5044&highlight=bumper&page=1 - but I haven't found a how to on how the lights are actually mounted (by drilling through the bumper?) and if its necessary to take off the bumper in order to do an aftermarket light install.
 
#4 ·
look at instructions other poster posted



remember there is about a 1"-2" gap between the bumper cover and actual bumper,
mopar lights mount to the bumper and have a cover to cover the hole on bumper cover,
will have to consider fabricating similar when installing aftermarket lights,
 
#3 ·
#6 ·
Wow. Surprisingly the dealer didnt want to touch it?? What was their reason?

I guess it weakens the structural integrity of the vehicle a little, but isnt the mopar kit, that's meant for the truck, safe to install? If not they really shouldn't be putting out plans to drill through the bumper to install some lights.

looks like im stuck in the same predicament. I have a pair of driving lights to install and have no place to mount them. Myabe i'll need to get a bush guard just to install some aftermarket lights. Mo' money, mo' money ... ugh
 
#10 ·
looks like im stuck in the same predicament. I have a pair of driving lights to install and have no place to mount them. Myabe i'll need to get a bush guard just to install some aftermarket lights. Mo' money, mo' money ... ugh
but where will you install the bush guard??? :doh:


just drill the bumper. jeez.
 
#7 · (Edited)
#13 ·
I've been looking to add driving lights to my ride too. But I reaaalllly don't want to drill through my bumper. Carr sells something that bolts onto your license plate frame called the light wing and the holes are pre-drilled for driving/fog lights.

I'm gonna be adding it to my ride shortly. It's probably the easiest way to add lights without a brush/bull guard and without drilling into the bumper. Cost is about $85 if you look online
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
I dunno guys, my license plate sure flops around a lot. I can't image what a couple pounds cantilevered out a foot will do. There's nothing worse than a bouncing light.

Just man up and drill into the bumper.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for that info, Kentuckypatriot!!'
Another member, Jessi, had instructed me on brackets attached to the grill...I tried it, but my grill , being plastic and all, was too flimsy to attach brackets and Hella Driving lights x 2.

My dealer is having second thoughts on this subject. They ordered in the Mopar brackets and had their mechanic look them over , and have now asked me if I want them to install the brackets ( as you describe) and now its MY decision whether to go ahead with the project. .If I do, I'll be sure to post some pics of the installed Hella's (500's).....
:):)
 
#23 ·
#25 ·
so, I got my drill, cut a pilot hole and then a 13.5 mm hole into the steel bumper through the plastic (which is almost 1/8" thick!). I then carved a 1" hole into the plastic bumper for a spacer to fit.

The rivnuts are going in tomorrow, and I'll be using a 1" OD X 1" tall machined cylinder with a hole in the centre to space the light up and above the plastic bumper.

Nvan08, if you're in North Van, you're welcome to drop by to check it out tomorrow (8/20) before I install the lights. It took about an hour, but a month of prep work getting the right tools and parts. Drop me a PM.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Well, it started with the switches into the dash. Simply cut a hole with a knife. That's the nice part about a vehicle that's 98% plastic. I wired the ground of the switch lights into the ground wire for the lighter.


Then some wires. I ran them through the driver side fender over the wheel and through the grommet in the A pillar. Up the A-pillar through the foam that's in there (push with a steel wire) and then underneath the plastic moulding on the inside into the dash.









Then the relays, mounted into the front end over the drivers headlight ( I still need another sheet metal screw to mount the second relay)
 
#30 · (Edited)
Then I swapped out my old square roof lights for new Procomp 55's, a 4" fog light (fluted so the beam is wide)



And added some aux reverse lights to the roof rack, with the relay mounted inside the rear light assembly and wired to the reverse lights. The aux lights come on automatically with the reverse lights. They are KC 26 series Kind of pricey at $130 (C) for the set with wiring.





 
#34 ·
I did run into a minor setback (which drove me up the wall for an hour), in that my white spacer wasn't in line with the threaded insert because I cut the bumper hole slightly in the wrong place. This resulted in me forcing the bolt in and cross threading it and seizing so it couldn't be tightened. The threaded insert started spinning in the bumper because the bolt was seized. I couldn't tighten or loosen it.

If you use these threaded inserts, take care that the bolt threads in nicely by hand! Don't force anything.



I had to cut off the bolt head, destroy the top flange of the threaded insert and push it inside the bumper, then fish it out the side of the bumper. PITA, but after an hour I got it and replaced it, and cut the hole in the plastic a little larger.
 
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