Thought I'd upload a photo guide to changing the front brake pads.

Only tools required were a jack, axle stands, a 14mm spanner, a caliper wind back tool and a tie-wrap to hold the caliper up.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952673621.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952682917.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952749651.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952267284.jpg
Jack up vehicle and support with an axle stand, remove road wheel

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952278104.jpg
Using a 14mm spanner or socket remove these two bolts at rear of caliper, remove caliper and support securely so as not to strain brake hose

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952628523.jpg
Remove the old pads and retain the anti-squeal shims

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952501947.jpg
Slider bolts

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323952859983.jpg
Once removed you should be left with this view

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323953341389.jpg
Use a brake caliper piston wind back tool and push piston fully to the rear,(Note make sure you unscrew the fluid reservoir cap at master cylinder under the bonnet)

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323953412679.jpg
Once pushed in it will look like this

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323953563094.jpg
Fit new brake pads in a reversal of removal

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323953682139.jpg
Refit anti-squeal shims

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj155/Bluestrobe/Jeep%20Patriot%20Brake%20Pad%20Change/1323953933671.jpg
Refit caliper and slider bolts and torque to specification, repeat process on the other side, tighten fluid reservoir cap, refit wheels and then press brake pedal until a firm pedal is achieved...once satisfied road test and brake gently to bed in new pads and then enjoy improved braking response.

This should take approximately twenty minutes per side to complete.

OK now sorted out pictures!

Description sorted now as well...hope its of use!

Thank you for the picture it's really clear
No action with the ABS?

The only thing I might add to this is your slider pins should be cleaned and lubed.

Ask at the auto parts store cause its not grease, per se. Some sort of silicone stuff but its special, not what you have laying around. (Although I stand to be corrected on that statement)

Love a post with pictures, nice and clear.

Nice post, good photos, good step-by-step. Thanks!

Thank you for the picture it's really clear
No action with the ABS?

No this doesn't involve anything to do with the ABS.

The only thing I might add to this is your slider pins should be cleaned and lubed.

Ask at the auto parts store cause its not grease, per se. Some sort of silicone stuff but its special, not what you have laying around. (Although I stand to be corrected on that statement)

Love a post with pictures, nice and clear.

Thanks...I did do the sliders but forgot that bit! Oops!:doh:

Nice post, good photos, good step-by-step. Thanks!

Thank you, I started to do one for Track Rod End replacement but hit an issue with removing the old joint half way through so once that is resolved I will post a guide on that as well!

thanks for the reply
Do you have change the rear pad?

80+ percent of your braking is done via the front wheels so generally speaking you just visually check the rear pads. If there is material on the rear pads you are good to go. Its best to remove the wheel and inspect front and back pad, I've seen a front pad look good while the back pad is worn out. Not supposed to happen that way but it can.

The thing is to get them changed before the pads reduce to metal backing or even before the squealers activate. Saves your rotors, making a brake job easy peasy in your driveway.

I have a Suzuki XL7 with just under 400,000K with original rotors and they still measure within specs.

Those with front discs/rear drums need to do things a bit differently, inspect the rears at least every second tire rotation, both to ensure you can get the drum off the wheel and to have a look. The best ongoing thing for drum equipped Patriots is to 1) use the E brake often, its how your brakes keep in adjustment and 2) once a month or so find a lot or road that is safe and do a bunch of braking while moving in reverse. High speed (for reverse) and low speed, over and over for ten minutes or so.

thanks for the reply
Do you have change the rear pad?

I recently replaced my front pads and ordered new ones from rock auto. They came with a small packet of silicone to lube the slider pins with. But I have some anti-seize compound and it says right on the bottle that it can be used on brake sliders.

Brake job 101 :D

Yea this is the same for most all cars with the exception of my Hyundai which you need a special tool in order to retract the rear caliper piston back in place (needs to be turned clockwise while pressure is applied).

I've had a lot of success with opening the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing the piston back. This removes the fluid subject to the most heat rather than pushing it back up through the lines. Top up the fluid when you are done the brake job, pump the brake pedal and check the fluid level after.

Brake job 101 :D

Yea this is the same for most all cars with the exception of my Hyundai which you need a special tool in order to retract the rear caliper piston back in place (needs to be turned clockwise while pressure is applied).

Yeah the tool used in the sequence above does that as it has a double sided disc with protruding pins which worked fine on my Hyundai Tucson.

I've had a lot of success with opening the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing the piston back. This removes the fluid subject to the most heat rather than pushing it back up through the lines. Top up the fluid when you are done the brake job, pump the brake pedal and check the fluid level after.

That's fine if you have the experience and equipment to bleed the brakes afterwards if needs be....however I meant this guide to be a minimal tools/no fuss "how to" for those who are not so confident! ;)

thanks for the reply
Do you have change the rear pad?

Rear pads is pretty much the same...it makes it easier if you just undo the bottom caliper slide bolt and then swing the caliper upwards as the brake pipe obstructs access to the top bolt...then just repeat the procedure...pads out...retract piston...refit shims..clips etc and refit new pads..bolt caliper back down.... road test and then have a beer or a cuppa!

That's fine if you have the experience and equipment to bleed the brakes afterwards if needs be....however I meant this guide to be a minimal tools/no fuss "how to" for those who are not so confident! ;)

Need bleeding required as long as you close the bleeder valve with pressure on the caliper piston.

Traditional brake bleeding only requires a proper sized wrench to open the bleeder and another person to pump the brake pedal. A small section of clear hose and a bottle of brake fluid if you don't want to make a mess.

Need bleeding required as long as you close the bleeder valve with pressure on the caliper piston.

Traditional brake bleeding only requires a proper sized wrench to open the bleeder and another person to pump the brake pedal. A small section of clear hose and a bottle of brake fluid if you don't want to make a mess.

I know this..I am qualified in Motor Vehicle and Diesel Plant engineering...however it is also relatively easy for a novice to mess things up...especially when it comes to a safety related issue like brakes...however each to their own...I have just provided a no fuss way of doing it without involving fluid release.

ive been looking on how to replace my front brakes for my jeep and glad to see this jeep brakes (http://www.jcwhitney.com/jeep/brakes/c1068j4s18.jcwx) replacement. ive been having trouble fixing it since last week. thanks for the post mate.

Use a brake caliper piston wind back tool and push piston fully to the rear,(Note make sure you unscrew the fluid reservoir cap at master cylinder under the bonnet)


I've never opened the fluid reservoir when changing brakes and never had a problem. I just push the piston back with the mentioned tool. Can you explain why this is necessary?

Reason to remove the reservoir cap? To make it easier to relieve the air pressure that would result if the cap were on. Personally, I like the idea of a quick one-shot bleed at each cylinder. It removes the "heat-treated" fluid, and topping off with fresh fluid will help replenish any additives (if there are any) in the fluid. That said, I have never really found a need to remove the cap when doing a brake job, but it is still a good idea.