Has anybody used Dynamat or b-quiet to help with road noise? I am thinking of doing the floor, roof, doors, and hood, to quiet everything down, but before spending 300 or more on this, I want to know if it would be worth it. The reviews are good on Amazon... and the other brand I was thinking about using, which is lower in cost but seems to be about the same. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=360037313667&Category=67760

I'm just getting tired of the engine noise, and me not being able to hear my music....

I used it in my J-10 pickup when I rebuilt it. I went from terrible wind noise, to the point of not being able to even hear the radio, to actually pretty quiet inside. Well worth the cost. I did the roof and the metal back of the cab behind the seats.

I have not yet done the full Dynamat on the Jeep but I have done significant Dynamat on other vehicles and it is effin amazing. You can also use a lot less than you might think--my experience is that strategically place some modest-size pieces gives about 98% of the sound suppression (OK, that's not a measured number) of more extensive coverage.

Drenglish, where would these strategically placed pieces go? I can save shipping if I order them at once, so I don't want to order them and then when they come find I need more. I know it is mostly front end, but when it is windy out (which we are getting a lot of right now) it sounds like I'm in the center of an air tunnel.

I may get the name brand stuff for the front end, and then the less expensive stuff, from the auction for the back end, and roof, so I will only be spending $200 plus a crazy amount of time, but I will be doing it myself so it will be free.

How easy is this stuff to install?

Dynamat kicks butt...but it's heavy.

Do some shopping around, last time I bought a few rolls I managed to find a close out rack at one of the large electronics dealers and saved half on the purchase price.

A heat gun or a very hot hair dryer will help the installation go easier. Remove the backing, and stick it at the top....holding out the bottom part of the piece. Heat it up so it's pliable, and kinda squeegee it into the nooks and crannies with a soft screwdriver handle or something similar.

You will get huge benefit from putting some in the lower half of the door panels (inside the doors on the metal, maybe a 4 x 18 '' strip would do it) and on the firewall. I think doing the roof would be good but I would hesitate to remove the liner because a saggy liner would bother me more than anything.

The Dynamat works mostly by damping the vibration of the metal, so you really don't need to cover every square inch. It's kind of like if you put your finger on a cymbal before striking it with the drumstick--your finger does not cover much of the surface but it really damps down the sound because it prevents resonant vibration.

I think the 100 square feet that person is selling on ebay is enough to do 8 cars at least. And the shipping is crazy. Finally, save $10 by buying a small wooden roller from the wallpaper section at the hardware store rather than the expensive Dynamat one.

Installation is easy, you just need to be patient and remove panels. Last time I did Dynamat on my vehicle I also used the little scraps and miscellaneous pieces in places like the inside of the glove box and the back of the dash. That helped too and it was a good way to use a bunch of little leftover pieces.

You're inspiring me. My Pat is reasonably quiet but I might Dynamat too for that OMG it's sooooo quiet effect.

Yeah, I think I will start off with the front doors, for about $50 I can see how it works on just the front doors, I just want it to be less wind noise, the sound is not bad, but I want less... and I think I am addicted to mods. Little, big, whatever.... its sad, is there a Mod anonyms. I start off with $10 grille chrome stripping, then $6 mesh under grille, then to pat myself on the back for saving so much money I buy a lift, now I am close to getting tires, and the k&n sound deadening, and I am looking into making a custom.... something... ;) and then using the spare wheel well for a speaker box... I seriously need to stop.

Yeah, I think I will start off with the front doors, for about $50 I can see how it works on just the front doors, I just want it to be less wind noise, the sound is not bad, but I want less... and I think I am addicted to mods. Little, big, whatever.... its sad, is there a Mod anonyms. I start off with $10 grille chrome stripping, then $6 mesh under grille, then to pat myself on the back for saving so much money I buy a lift, now I am close to getting tires, and the k&n sound deadening, and I am looking into making a custom.... something... ;) and then using the spare wheel well for a speaker box... I seriously need to stop.

Mods Anon, that's excellent; it's obviously contagious as I seem to have the same symptoms. And reading all the different ideas and mods others have done sure doesn't help.

Where do I sign up? I can't afford it ($$$) much longer :D

As soon as anyone takes the door apart, let me know what is in there. I didn't do the doors in my J-10 because it had the spray of sound deadening stuff already there. I would be very surprised if there isn't some kind of stock sound deadening material in the Patriot doors already.

Jepstr when they fixed my speakers, there wasn't anything but the metal from what I saw, and if there is any, it isn't much, they sound transparent.

I gave it a shot last year and was pretty happy with the results

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2631

One bulk pack of the Dynamat Xtreme did the hood, the better part of the 4 interior door skins (those parts I could reach), and the floor area behind the rear seats. I also added Dynamat hoodliner to the hood.

It made the doors feel much more solid (although the added weight makes them less likely to stay open on a hill), and improved the performance of my speakers. It did reduce noise to some extent, but its hard for me to tell how much - someday I'd like to drive a stock Pat to see what the diff is. I think that doing the floor/firewall area would help a lot - I just ran out of Dynamat and motivation.

Dynamat Xtreme requires no heat gun - just a small wooden roller.

The stock pat doors have virtually no sound deadening in them. Just a bit of foam/adhesive for a cross member or two to prevent rattling.

Great. Good to know.

I posted this on another thread but here it is again. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ It has a great deal of explination and comparison. Hope it helps.

JRK is there anything between the outer metal wall and the inner structure... I have an idea.... affordible and light weight, how about fire resistant home insulation? this will create an almost inpenitrible sound barier between the sheet metal and the cabin.... for $30 at home depot I could do all four doors.

Just a passing idea I guess... but it would be pretty cool.

JRK is there anything between the outer metal wall and the inner structure... I have an idea.... affordible and light weight, how about fire resistant home insulation? this will create an almost inpenitrible sound barier between the sheet metal and the cabin.... for $30 at home depot I could do all four doors.

Just a passing idea I guess... but it would be pretty cool.

There really isnt much between the outer door skin and the interior plastic panels. There is some steel to support the interior panel but its not much. I tried to take off the entire plastic inner door panel but I gave up after I saw how it is integrated with the lock and window mechanisms. I ended up applying Dynamat to the outer door skin via the speaker access panel, and via the small panel where the door pull area is.

I'm not really familiar with the insulation you refer to, and I am hardly an expert when it comes to noise reduction. Given the labor it takes to properly apply sound insulation, I recommend getting high quality stuff thats designed for the job.

What I am referring to is a high (ish) density foam insulation that is fire resistant, it comes in 1/2, 1, 2, 4, and 6" and is used to insulate homes, and sheds, this would be less 'adding weight' to the outer panels and more creating a barrier for sound to hit, and be defused I don't really have a problem with vibrations of sheet metal panels like dynomat is really used for. Next day I have off, I am going to pop it off and have a look....

One tip I have from several other installations (all with B-Quiet products): put the sound deadening under the rear seat and into the hatch/trunk/cargo area (depending on the vehicle). Many times manufacturers skimp in these areas. I've noticed significant road noise reduction by doing this, more so than putting it in the doors.

I've also placed it under the floorboards and typically have not had to remove the seats. Instead, take off the rocker panel plastic and peel the carpet up to the center "tunnel" and place the sound deadening in strips under the carpet, from the seats forward to the firewall. On the Patriot, the vertical "B" pillar trim has to be removed first before the rocker panel pieces will come up.

I've found that the Dynamat type stuff really reduces the low and mid frequency road/tire noise the most. Of course, decent Michelins reduce the noise also...good luck with your install, it won't be too difficult.

I worked at a company that made audio video eq for corporate aircraft. all speaker enclosures were metal, I would put some dynamat some stuff in them and I would spray some thick latex type substance, like rinoliner but not hard, kinda plyiable. I think this is the same stuff use on roofs and liquid siding. I think the stuff is fairly cheap, I plan on coating the floorpan of my car with it.