I ordered a kit or set from eBay: $51.00 for 5 actuators, hardware and control box. It was a longer and more frustrating project than expected. The family seems to enjoy the locks---so, it was worth the effort.
Maybe this report will cut the time and frustration for others attempting this installation.
This way may not be the best way, it surely is not the only way, and I am open to any suggestions to make it easier for those that follow.
I bought machine bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers to replace the screws in the kit; and some clear silicone sealant and some extra red wire to run for the power supply.
Run the power supply.
The power supply wire comes directly from the battery in my setup. I did not want to tap into the wires under the dash, others may know more about what wire is what and know which wire to splice. I ran the wire through the wheel well and through the firewall on as TexasPoloPolo suggested in http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=906 and shown in
http://www.uvgroup.net/Speed_Control_Installation.pdf .
The power wire from the batter ran to the control box for the locks which was placed in the small compartment in the left side of the dash. See photo for location.

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(There is also the same compartment on the right side of the dash if you want to run the power from that side. To run the wire into the cabin, follow the hose from the windshield wiper fluid bottle to where it going into the cabin wall. You can feed a wire through the rubber seal. See Mud’s advice at http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4159.
At three o’clock (in this compartment) is a screw into metal for the ground wire.

Next is running wires to each door.
Five wire set run to front doors, two wire sets to back doors. There is a set of longer 5 wires and two wires, these sets go to the passenger side (right side) doors.

Before running all the wires, lay them out and untangle them. I taped them every six inches. Some of the tape had to be removed as I ran the wires in the door but, it kept it organized.

For the lift back door you need to splice into the lines going to the rear left door. I did this splice as I was running the wire to the left side passenger door so, as to know where to place the splice.


Removing door panels----running wire—placing actuator.

The door panels on each door are three pieces: the middle section, speaker cover and then the large panel. I removed the middle panel first, and then the speaker cover panel and the large panel last.
Middle Panel removal:

Begin by removing the screw in the armrest handle well. Pop the cap off and unscrew the screw.

Also remove the window crank, there is a spring "c" cllip holding the handle, there is special to remove the clip, I just used a flathead screwdrive and pushed each side of the clip till it came off.


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Then using a pry tool, starting at the top of the middle panel at the outside of the door and pry the top of the panel away from the door, then do the sides and bottom panel.

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Speaker cover removal:
If you look under or on the bottom of the round panel you can see a slot for prying this panel. It pops off; just start prying from the bottom till you get removed.

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Remove the Speaker:
The speaker is held by four screws, two long black and two short silver screws. After removing the screws, remove the speaker and carefully unplug the speaker plug behind the speaker. Set the speaker aside.
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Large door panel removal:
Pop off the cover behind the door lever, remove the screw, it is a long black screw.
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Next remove the bolts and screw from the large panel. See the photo where the bolts and one screw are located, marked with green tape.
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The screw is difficult as you do it from inside the door with a stubby screwdriver., see green tape in picture below. Screw is behind tape, in white plastic, after unscrewing, unhook plastic from panel.
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Once all the bolts and crews are removed, you have two fins that guide the window rails; you must work them as you remove the panel.

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The panel is removed by lifting it straight up.

Installing actuators:
On the front doors, I located the actuators to push up and down on the lock rod.
On the passenger doors, the actuators push left or right to operate the lock rod.
See photo on where I located the actuator to operate the door locks.

Front doors:
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Back doors:

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I tried several locations, the ones used seem to work (note all the extra holes in the photo); there are probably better locations, I just could not find it. Use the support metal supplied in the kit for connections to the actuator and/or drills a hole in the door to connect the actuator.

See the tape used it to help mark where to drill a hole (tried this after making the scratch in the photo) and to keep the drill from moving from where I wanted to drill.


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I used the silicone on each hold drilled and also on the bolts, nuts and washers to hold the actuators.

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You can bend the rod connecting the actuator to the door lock rod easily so, as to avoid contact with other parts. Connect the actuator rod the lock rod with the hardware provided in the kit. I used silicone on the tightening screws, thinking is may help keep them tight and not loosen from vibrations.

Next run the wires to the door. If you look at the door hinge, you see a rubber according hose. Run the wires through it. Both sides of the hose are connected to sockets. You can remove the socket on the door by removing the screws that connect it to the door. Then you can remove the hose from that socket. On the car side, the socket is removed by depressing the plastic springs slip hooks either on the top and bottom or on the side. Remove the hose from this socket.

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The wire plug can be unplugged from the door side socket. Feed the wires through the wall of the car to the hole for the socket. There is a large enough hole in the front door sockets that you can run the wires through it one at a time. Then feed the wires through the hose, I used a screwdriver, taped a wire to it and pulled them through the hose.

Next take the door side wire holder apart, it is taped, removed the tape, feed the wires through to the actuator and connect. Put the sockets back together, tape where you removed the tape. Put the hose back on the sockets and put the sockets back on the door.

Put the panels back on, the large one can be difficult. Remember you are sliding it down to fit, as there are plastic hooks that hold it to the door and you also have the two metal fins of the window rail to work in place. It can be frustrating but, it is works sooner or later. REMEMBER THE METAL FINS, AND REMEMBER THE PLASTIC HOOKS, IT ALL WORKS TOGETHER.

The back doors are similar that the front but, easier. As for running the wire, it is the same except for the wire running through the door socket drill a ¼ in. hole to run the wires. I drilled in the upper left corner of the plug as it was not being used.

I have not run the wires to the lift gate. It took all weekend for the front four doors and my entire beer supply. I will reload for next wkend.

Hope this helps.

Any suggestions to improve the install are welcomed.

I merged these posts together... If I missed something, let me know.

Great work Cork!

This looks great! I'm going to download this thread for future reference, just in case I need to take the door apart for one reason or another. Maybe with good reason, I have all the electrics in my doors.

I had to replace the remote mirror on my S10 and couldn't figure out how to get the panel off far enough to get access to the mirror attaching screws. Found out that a fellow Lion's Club member had a paint and body shop--so bought him an extra coffee and he spilled some trade secrets! After all, isn't that the reason we tend to congregate with others to tap their brains and skills?!

Very helpful, trying to install a complete door lock, security system with remote start myself. My question is when you installed the actuators did it come with the wiring to connect the actuators to the main module? or did you have to buy a spool of wire seperatly, if so, what type of wire did you buy?

Very helpful, trying to install a complete door lock, security system with remote start myself. My question is when you installed the actuators did it come with the wiring to connect the actuators to the main module? or did you have to buy a spool of wire seperatly, if so, what type of wire did you buy?

It came will all the wire and connectors to connect to the main module.

If you buy extra wire, do not buy solid. It must be braided wire. The wire with my actuators was .5mm. Braided wire is used because of vibrations in a car. I do not know the theory, I just remember being told: never use solid wire on a car, boat or plane because of vibrations----always use braided wire.

I will need to check but, I think the red wire for power was larger that .5mm.

Not sure if you wanted to add this to the thread or not but here is where I mounted the actuator for the liftgate. Fits perfectly and the harness can be easily accessed to run to the front as well. I also wanted to add that the door panels are the most frustrating I've ever dealt with and by far the hardest/worst part of the install. The liftgate is easy to take the panel off of however.

Here they are sorry about the crappy cell phone pics, I will take more later):

http://www.suzukablue.com/liftgate-001.jpg
http://www.suzukablue.com/liftgate-002.jpg
http://www.suzukablue.com/liftgate-003.jpg

Excellent post. Thank you! I'm gonna subscribe to it in case I wanna take apart the interior door moldings some day.

Well I finally finished installing my power locks, alarm, keyless entry and man was that a %$^#&!!!! Thanks a ton for your write-up, it helped like you can't imagine. I ended up using different locations than you did simply because I wanted to mount the actuators directly to the doors without those metal brackets but other than that I followed it to the tee. The alarm install went pretty smoothly as well and only took me a few hours once the locks were done thanks to a wiring guide that I found online ( http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~98370 ). Unfortunately I wasn't able to install the power windows. Due to the weird layout of the door panels and the fact that they are in 2 pieces, there was no way to run them and install the motors where they needed to be. I guess I'll revisit it once they make a kit just for the patriot with the factory-like scissor mechanism. Oh and also the fender liner for the power worked like a charm as well. I tried doing it through the washer hose hole and that would've required running about 3 times more wire and routing it all around the engine compartment. The liner came right off after fighting with those silly black plastic clip things and everything is nice and exposed and easy to get to. Oh and did I mention that these door panels we have are the weirdest design and hardest things to take off and put on? I swear someone at chrysler worked hard on making these things odd to work with just to piss us off:doh:

Well I just finished installing the DEI actuators. They are working great. I hope that the swelling in my hands will be gone by the time all the cuts heal...lol
All joking aside.
I do alot with car stereo installs and albeit different, the 3 piece door panel is kinda cool. By far the easiest access to the speakers of any install. The screw inside the door caused some confusion as did the screws holding the rubber loom thingy to the door. I actually mounted the rear actuators to the plastic door panels instead of the metal. works fine... anyone have questions msg me... I still have the back hatch to go and then a cheap Avital 2300 alarm. (who needs remote start and two-way paging anyway)

ps Great job Cork on the thread. Probably shaved an hour or two off my time.

When you do the back it's easiest to splice into the drivers side back door wires for the actuator at the pillar where the front seat belt is and then run the wires down and back on the channel underneath the plastic molding and then up the side of the back near the weatherstripping and then along the top where the plastic meets the headliner. From there you can run the wires through the body and then through the black rubber wire encosure, under the liftgate panel and over to your actuator. The liftgate actuator was actually way easier to install and wire than any of the doors for me. It was all relatively easy but the doors were just time consuming. I can take pics of where I ran the wires if you want.

Many thanks to Cork! Your write-up helped me tremendously. This project took me a very long time to do even with your detailed instructions, but I think it was well worth it. I don't know if I could have done this without the write-up. Thank you very much:smiley_thumbs_up:

I've already bookmarked this thread so I can figure out what to do if ever my door locks malfunction...
Thank for this man... :smiley_thumbs_up:

I wanted to say THANKYOU! this thread helped ALOT with me installing power locks on my JEEP compass!:banana:

i know ebay, but where did you all find these for the pat? i can only find 4 doors, dont I need the 5th for the lift gate

would a trunk pop work instead of the actuator? I am thinking of doing the power locks to mine as well but want the back end to pop open when I hit the trunk release button.

Darth I will try to help out you and Focus at the same time. I did this to my patriot and I am quite happy with the results.

Let me first address the lift gate. I did put an actuator on it to unlock. I also put a trunk pop on it to make it pop but that did not work very successfully and also proved to be somewhat pointless. Here is what I mean. The remote trunk pop would pop it but when the button was released the latch would just latch back as it is not going to pop open unless you add some sort of spring or mechanized lift to make it raise once popped. The reason I say it is pointless anyway is that you have to grab the handle to pull it up even if it is unlocked and popped so what is the point? Unlocking is all you really need.

As far as what to get. I can tell you what I used. I bought from everything from

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/

I bought A:

1RS-560 Combo, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry for 79.98
Power Door Lock Kit (4 Door Universal) for 44.99
2 Wire Door Lock Actuator for 9.99 for the hatch just splice it into any door line

I had also bought a trunk pop that like I said proved pointless.

I want to say this is not bad stuff. everything does what it is supposed to do. The thing I like best about it is remote range. The remote on this stuff will lock and unlock the doors on my car farther away than I can here the alarm beep or see the truck

Thanks for the input Joe,
Did you get the remote car starter working as well? I really just want keyless entry and remote start if it is not too much trouble. I will forget about the trunk pop. I don't feel like getting into springs and hydraulic push rods. I don't reallly want a full blown alarm. I would take one that worked on doors opening. but dont want the stupid sirens and stuff. I would just use the car horn. Thanks again for the help.

1RS-560 Combo, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry for 79.98
Power Door Lock Kit (4 Door Universal) for 44.99
2 Wire Door Lock Actuator for 9.99 for the hatch just splice it into any door lineAre these power locks also activated when a door is manually locked/unlocked?
I've seen power lock kits on eBay and they all say that when, for example, the driver's door is unlocked manually, all the other doors are automatically unlocked.

(I really would like the option to unlock just the driver's door and not the others... in case of an emergency situation or whatever.)

Are these power locks also activated when a door is manually locked/unlocked?
I've seen power lock kits on eBay and they all say that when, for example, the driver's door is unlocked manually, all the other doors are automatically unlocked.

(I really would like the option to unlock just the driver's door and not the others... in case of an emergency situation or whatever.)

You can easily disable this on any of the ebay kits by just only connecting 2 of the 5 wires on the drivers door lock. The extra 3 wires on a 5-wire door lock actuator are a switch ground, unlock, and lock that sense where the drivers lock is. If disconnected you will only lock or unlock all the doors with the remote, and manually unlocking the drivers door will only unlock the drivers door.

As far as a 1-click for drivers door and 2 clicks for all doors, you will have to find a higher end kit for that. Honestly I've never seen an aftermarket kit that does this but one may exist.

First off, thanks to the above posters on the tips and pics.

I installed my Patriot front door actuators without drilling. I also only removed the MIDDLE door panel.

Only the middle panel needs to come off. There is plenty of room to install.

I used the supplied strap that came with the actuators and put it to the factory lock support inside the door.

You need to use the 2nd and 4th holes in the strap to allow the top of the strap to stick up an inch to guide the door handle bar away from the actuator.

Also, I hack sawed the actuator rod in half because it was too long on the upward stroke. The metal rod that comes with the actuator.

I used 2" long 6/32" screws and nuts that I bought at lowes in a package of 8 for 99 cents. Also, a package of 6/32" washers. You do NOT want to buy shorter ones.

If you need anything answered you can write me at akaricke@gmail.com

You might need to trim a small section of the black foam on the door panel. Check the clearance before you install the panel back. I had to trim about a 1/2" off the short end.

HOW TO: Installing aftermarket poor door locks


not sure if I would want to install THESE kind of locks. :doh:

Hey Jeepster! STOP tellin other people that u dont like chrome or electronics on/in the pat... If youre argument is.. "its a jeep" ... its not enough, if u wanted a 4X4, u should“ve bought a wrangler in the first place, its a matter of our own if we want to install them or no! SO PLEASE... SHOW SOME RESPECT TO OUR COMMUNITY AND ITS MEMBERS!!!!!! And stop posting ironic arguments.

Nice write up. Thanks.

That sound like a lot of work. Even so, if I do try it this "how to" will help a lot.
Did you consider doing the wiring like the 02 Liberty where al the switchers were in the center console? Then only the 2 solenoid wires need to go to each door. Just a thought for others to consider.

Old post, I know....How are you guys removing the hatch interior trim? I can only get the bottom 4 clips out. I can't reach the top however many and I don't want to break them. One of the bottom ones started to crack so I'll have to epoxy it if I ever get the panel off.:doh:

I know I am bringing back an old thread, but maybe some of you guys who have done this will see it. I just got everything delivered today to do the power locks and alarm system with remote keyless. Did you all just run a wire all the way up to the battery to power the system, or did anybody find a place to tie into the power under the dash? Also, if you went to the battery, which route did you take? I saw at least two mentioned. Any other additions to this thread since the last post? Anybody found any other tips/secrets?? Thanks

Just finished installing my power locks, the front doors were easy but i had some problems with the back doors, I followed akarickie's directions and I can say all you need to do is remove the middle door panel, its easy to do and there is plenty of room to work. I installed the central lock module on the passeger side and routed the power wires thru where the rear washer fluid line comes in behind the glove box.

The install went smoothly except for some hiccups on the back doors, i tried installing my actuators to the lock parallel like what was shown in this thread, but the actuator was just flexing the wire and would not pop the lock so I tried a different approach.


http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6153/img0288oe.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/502/img0288oe.jpg/)

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1662/img0287cm.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/img0287cm.jpg/)

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7091/img0289iv.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/img0289iv.jpg/)

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/9272/img0285bz.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/img0285bz.jpg/)


I installed the actuator with the supplied bracket, to keep from drilling in the door I used the existing screw holding the door panel to the door, and I bent the other end of the bracket to brace against the door.

To connect the actuator rod to the door lock you have to cut a small piece of plastic off the door panel so you can access the lock and screw on the actuator rod.

Overall the install wasn't bad, just very time consuming, took me an entire weekend.

Has anyone who did this had any issues with the door key not locking?

I've noticed that my passenger side works great, but the drivers door no longer unlocks with the key. The power locks were great though. The key locks the door ok, but it slips while trying to unlock.

Any thoughts?

Readjust actuator. I had that issue before