Hello!

This is actually my first post here on the forum, but the community here helped in my buying decision. I'm happy to say I'm the owner of a red '07 North Edition Patriot 4x4.

As to my issue, the problem I've encountered is with shifting out of "Park". It doesn't happen all the time and I can't figure out any circumstance that would cause it to happen repeatedly. To solve the problem, I discovered that by lifting the emergency brake and releasing it right away, I can shift without any problems. At first I thought this was a safety feature, so I tried parking with the emergency brake on. This didn't solve the issue. I would put the emergency brake down and the shifter would still seem to be locked (periodically) in "Park". So I would pull the emergency brake up again and release it. Again, this solved the issue.

I'll be going to the dealer to report this problem, but has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas on why the emergency brake would seem to unlock the shifter on those times when it appears to be stuck?

Philip

Shifting out of Park requires depressing on the brake pedal. There is an interlock switch that's engaged and it may be out of adjustment.

Plus of course the ignition needs to be out of "lock".

I have found, that if you start er up, and in a real fast mode, try putting it in gear...Im talking about in like <5 seonds, it won't go. (Tho I don't force it).
After approx 10 seconds it will go..Safety feature perhaps?

I have found, that if you start er up, and in a real fast mode, try putting it in gear...Im talking about in like <5 seonds, it won't go. (Tho I don't force it).
After approx 10 seconds it will go..Safety feature perhaps?

KFC: I find the same thing if I do not have my foot on the brake. If I put my foot on the brake while in Park, I can then move the shifter out of Park.

Typically, I start the engine and then let it run for a minute or so while I put my seat belt on, etc. So even if I'm not in a rush, the shifter will sometimes lock no matter how hard I press on the brake pedal. I can move it all the way to the right, but not down. Unlike when you're not pressing the brake pedal and the shifter won't move at all. Why enabling and disabling the emergency brake solves this issue, I don't know. But I'll be calling the service dept at the dealership tomorrow to take care of it.

I had the same problem except nothing helped. The first couple times it happened I eventually got it to shift. Then one night I got home, parked in the garage and came out the next morning and had no luck getting out of park. I called jeep and sent out a wrecker to tow me to the dealer. The driver didnt want to drag my patriot out of the garage so he found the manual overide lever. (pop the plug in the passenger side of the shift consol and flip up the white lever) It went to the shop and I dont know what they did but they it wasnt good. They had to replace the entire wiring harness on the passenger side of the vehicle because the plug was broken. How the 'plug' got broken, I dont know but between waiting for the part and them to replace it I waited 8 days. 8 days with no vehicle.

Its funny...when my turn signal on my Grand Cherokee went haywire, the dealer had to replace the entire wiring harness under the vehicle.

Shift Interlock Cable

The Shifter’s serpentine pattern does not require the shifter to have a button on the knob to release it from “Park”. There is a blocking lever within the Shifter that prevents undesired shifting out of “Park”.

The shifter has a solenoid which is actuated by depressing the brake pedal. This prevents shifting out of “Park” without the brake pedal being depressed. To operate the solenoid, the ignition must be in the “On” or “Run” position and the brake pedal must be depressed. The Brake Switch sends a signal to the Cabin Compartment Node (CCN) and the CCN, in turn, energizes the solenoid that moves the Park Lock Lever to allow the driver to shift out of 'Park”. On the right side of the Console Pod is a plug that allows access to the Park Lock Lever for manual operation.

Symptom: Key is trapped and cannot be removed from the ignition when the Shift Lever is in the “Park” position.
Possible Cause: The Interlock Cable adjustment is not set correctly (spring collapsed too far).
Corrective Action: Check the Interlock Cable Adjustment .

Possible Cause: The Interlock Cable is not secured properly at the shifter housing.
Corrective Action: Be sure the Interlock Cable is properly secured at the shifter housing.

Possible Cause: Shifter housing tab is broken .
Corrective Action: Replace shifter mechanism.

Possible Cause: Interlock Cable routing through the instrument panel area is causing increased friction within the Interlock Cable Housing (bind/kink in Interlock Cable).
Corrective Action: Check the Interlock Cable Housing routing. The Interlock Cable has a clip that locates it to the Instrument Panel structure. The Interlock Cable must be free to move through this clip. The clip is located behind the panel.

Symptom: Key can be removed no matter what position the Shift Lever is in.
Possible Cause: The Interlock Cable adjustment is not set correctly.
Corrective Action: Check the Interlock Cable adjustment .

Possible Cause: The Interlock Cable is not secured properly at the shifter housing.
Corrective Action: Be sure the Interlock Cable is properly secured to the shifter housing.

Possible Cause: Shifter housing tab broken.
Corrective Action: Replace shifter mechanism.

Possible Cause: Interlock Cable routing through the instrument panel area is causing increased friction within the Interlock Cable Housing (bind/kink in Interlock Cable).
Corrective Action: Check the Interlock Cable Housing routing. The Interlock Cable has a clip that locates the Interlock Cable to the Instrument Panel structure. The Interlock Cable must be free to move through this clip. The clip is located behind the panel.

Possible Cause: Interlock cable not secured in Ignition Cylinder.
Corrective Action: Secure Interlock cable in Ignition Cylinder.

Symptom: Shift Lever will not move to the right so that it can be moved out of the “Park” position.
Possible Cause: Brake lamp switch may be mis-adjusted.
Corrective Action: Turn the ignition to the “On” or “Run” position. Brake lamps must be on for the shifter solenoid to receive a signal. If the brake lamps switch is mis-adjusted, the solenoid will not be energized. Replace Brake Lamp Switch.

Possible Cause: No Voltage to Brake lamp switch from 10 amp fuse #3 in TIPM
Corrective Action: Repair circuit or fuse #3.

Possible Cause: Solenoid bushing to Park Lock Lever is out of position or has fallen out.
Corrective Action: If the shifter build date is before 2/1/2006 (located on the label on the rear of the shifter housing) and the solenoid bushing can be located, reinstall the bushing on the solenoid shaft and use a soldering iron, melt the end of the solenoid shaft so that the bushing will not come off of the shaft. Verify the operation of the Park Lock Lever.
If the solenoid bushing cannot be located or the shifter build date is after 2/1/2006, replace the shifter assembly.

Possible Cause: Solenoid is sluggish or hesitant. Low voltage to solenoid. The voltage with key on, engine off, should be at least 10.1 volts. There may be up to a 3 second delay before full voltage is received at the solenoid after the engine is started.
Corrective Action a: Correct the low voltage condition. If the voltage is above 10.1 volts, replace the shifter assembly.

Corrective Action b: Sticky residue around solenoid plunger

Possible Cause: Park Lock Lever on the right side of the sifter is not moving when the brake pedal is depressed.
Corrective Action: Check Park Lock Solenoid operation.

Possible Cause: Park Lock Lever is sluggish and scrapping against the inside of the Shifter Housing.
Corrective Action: Replace the shifter assembly.

Symptom: Shift Lever will move to the right but will not move down toward the “Reverse” position .
Possible Cause: Key Interlock Lever within the shifter is not releasing when the key is turned to the “On” or “Run” positions.
Corrective Action: Check Interlock Cable operation and cable adjustment.

Possible Cause: Interlock Cable is not routed properly.
Corrective Action:Check Interlock Cable routing.

Symptom: Shift Lever can be moved without turning the key on. Possible Cause: Interlock Cable Cartridge not properly installed into the Lock Housing.
Corrective Action: Remove the steering column shroud and check for correct installation of the Interlock Cable Cartridge into the Lock Housing.

Symptom: Shift Lever difficult to pull out of any gear. Possible Cause: Shift Cable not fully seated into the Transmission Bracket.
Corrective Action: Check the Shift Cable installation at the transmission. Be sure both of the Shift Cable Housing locking tabs are fully engaged into the bracket.

Possible Cause: Shift Cable to Transmission Lever nut is loose.
Corrective Action: Tighten the nut to 20 N•m (175 in. lbs.).

Adjustments:
Pry up on cable adjuster lock to release and allow cable to “self-adjust”. Lock cable adjustment by pressing down on the adjuster lock until bottomed at the cable housing

I'm curious if they have some kind of "safety" (idiot proof) device for manual transmissions as well. I suppose it interfaces with the clutch on the manual. Won't crank if the clutch isn't pressed down.

Just more crap to be mis-aligned and cause problems.

The Clutch Pedal Safety Switch has been around since the '70's.

There is a small circular "tab" on the passenger side near the shifter. If you remove this tab there will be a white lever that you can see. If you press this lever up while the brake is depressed you will be able to shift out of park. This happened to me and it corrected the problem. Let me know if you need any more advice.

The Clutch Pedal Safety Switch has been around since the '70's.

Jeeps manufactured in the (at least the early) 1980's do not have such a device. So even if it has been "around" Jeep did not use it.

Dodge and Plymouth did in 1970 on the B and E bodies. GM had it in most by the mid '70's. It's nothing new, maybe just new to Jeep. It is the 21st Century. Maybe we should go back to points, plugs, condenser and carburetors, at least for off-road? That suits me fine!

Special thanks to Gramps and jeepjeepjeep for their posts on this topic. Couldn't get the shifter out of park today on my wife's Patriot. While waiting for the tow truck, I decided to look online for forum suggestions. Used the "pull tab, move lever" solution to get it rolling without the tow truck, after checking the #3 fuse (brake lights didn't work).

Dealer was impressed that I knew about the "emergency park release switch". They replaced the brake lamp switch; everything ok now.

Jeeps manufactured in the (at least the early) 1980's do not have such a device. So even if it has been "around" Jeep did not use it.

The clutch thing has been on every manual I've ever had, but I've never had an old Jeep. I never minded it, and it's never broken on anything I drove.

I was thinking as I was reading this thread though, what a great selling point for a manual tranny!:p

I have a manual transmission, but I think I read in the owners manual about putting the emergency brake on in the CVT's before putting them in park. Something about the CVT transmission always being engaged, and it can lock the shift lever if the vehicle moves while in park??

Happened to me today and I removed the plug, hit the lever and it shifts again. Do I need to go to the dealer? It seems to be fixed.

Happened to me today. Found I had no brake lights and the brake fuse #3 was burnt out. Replaced the fuse got me home. will go to the dealer soon.

the dealer will do what mikev did replace a burnt fuse the car doesnt know that the brakes are on with mean the fuse 3 is either burnt or humid i say try to play with fuse 3 and find another 10 amp that you dont need on the car and try that and if no luck then go to the dlearer.

This morning on the way to the church picnic, I stopped by a fast food place and put my 2008 Jeep Patriot in park at the widow with the engine running to pay for the fried chicken. The gearshift lever would not shift out of park into drive. The temperature was in the mid ‘80’s and the line behind me began to grow. Fast food folks tried as well to shift it and provide other help, but "No Joy" on the attempts. They had to have runners take the orders to the other folks behind me in the line.

Fast food folks put in a call to the tow truck but before it arrived and after starting and stopping the engine, taking key out of ignition, pulling on the hand brake, banging on the console, opening and closing doors (and following all available “tribal knowledge”) it somehow released from park. Suppose I will get billed for the tow truck.

Have heard of this problem with other Chrysler cars, but never expected to get caught by Jeep. Switched to Jeep after paying $1,000 to replace a hydraulic shifter mechanism on my Ford Ranger. Part was cheap, but they had to remove the transmission to get at it.

I noticed the “button” on the RHS of the console. Will take a look at that for the future, but if that works, it is not the way to go. Hopefully Jeep will take a hard look at this and find and fix the problem with a recall if necessary.

I had this very same issue with my old 2003 Crown Victoria. I went out one evening and everything was fine. Came out later on and I couldn't take the vehicle out of park.

Came to find out that when I put my foot on the brake the brake lights wouldn't turn on so that is why I couldn't get it out of park. To get it out of "Park" and into "Drive" I had to turn the key to "ON" but not start the engine, then shift to "Neutral", then start the engine and I could put the vehicle into "Drive" and be on my way.

I then proceeded to drive with my four way flashers on because I had no brake lights. Apparently there was wireing harness that chaffed against the body and shorted which caused the brake lights to fail.

..I noticed the “button” on the RHS of the console. Will take a look at that for the future,...

This is just a plug covering a hole which will allow access to a white lever that block being able to shift out of park. The brake/shift interlock is a simple solenoid that releases the white lever when the brake stop light switch is activated by pushing the the brake pedal. The two primary causes of not being able to shift out of park is 1. A failed brake light switch or blown brake light fuse or 2. The solenoid in the shifter has failed.

An easy way to check the brake light switch is to simply press on the brake pedal and make sure the brake lights come on. If you have brake lights then you can check the solenoid by pressing on the brake pedal and watching the white lever through the access port to see if it moves.

Our 2007 Limited did this back in January. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the ignition assembly. It was done under warranty and has worked perfect since....So i didn't question the dealer.

Thank goodness for this forum. I had this problem yesterday. After calling my Jeep dealer and asking them if they had any recommendations on what i could do to get it out of park, I received this response: "Well it could be a-lot of things, electrical, mechanical, ...I can arrange to have it towed to our dealership". Not one mention of the release lever access hole on the right side. I ask if it would be under warranty and was told that since I had 48,000 that it was not. I ask what about my lifetime power train warranty and was told "no", because it was an electrical issue. Even though he said it before that it could be a mechanical issue. Arrrrrrrrrrrrghhhhh!!!!

Hello All,
Good afternoon! I read the thread and it was excellent. I was hoping you all would look at my situation and offer any suggestions:

Pulled into gas station. Filled up. Re-entered car, insert key, started Jeep Patriot, and cannot shift out of park. Had Jeep towed.

I have tried:

1. Replacing brake lamp switch ($20.00)

2. Replacing another brake lamp switch ($18.95) - suspecting bad installation.

3. Disconnected neg battery terminal for 5 minutes. Did nothing.

Brake lights are not working when I use manual over-ride as referenced above. Trying to avoid a $90 diagnostic fee at my local dealership.

Any ideas, suggestions, or experiences would be very appreciated!!!
Thanks

I had a similar problem and it ended up being a chafed wire in a bundle around the left front wheel.

I'd also caution driving it as your brake lights likely are not working.