Mods, feel free to move this to the knowledge base. I wanted to create it here so I can modify the thread right away.


I recently did a "Tune up" on my patriot. I took pictures to finally create a how to because I have been seeing more and more questions about doing it on the MK.




Tools Required:

Ratchet
5/8 spark plug socket
6-8 inch extension (to reach the plug in the tube)
spark plug gapper.
T-30 Torx head bit, or driver

Optional tools (for you gurus)
conductive electric grease
anti-seize
Torque wrench (I didn't use one, but some might want to. Especially if you have never worked on cars before)

Usefull specs:
NGK specs says 10-14 Ft. lbs for these plugs.
Gap should be set to .044
OEM NGK plug# ZFR5F-11

Tools I used
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/Toolsrequired.jpg

I used the exact same plugs that came in the engine originally. NGK v-power zfr5f-11

Picture of the box
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/sparkplug.jpg

1. First step is to remove the engine cover. You simply pull up on each corner. There is a rubber grommet on the cover, and a plastic ball on the engine, that the cover pops off of.

The plastic ball can be seen here. (one in each corner)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/coverholddown.jpg

2. Next step is to find the 4 coil packs. (right in the middle of the valve cover.)

Cylinder 1's coil can bee seen here.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/coilpack.jpg

3. Squeeze the release lever for the clip on the coil plug and pull the plug off of the coil.

Plug removed
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/unplug.jpg

4. Use the t-30 torx bit and ratche, or t-30 torx driver, to remove the hold down screw from the coil pack.

Screw removed
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/removetorxscrew.jpg

5. Remove the coil by pulling it straight up out of the tube.

coil removed
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/removecoil.jpg

6. Use the ratchet with your extension, and 5/8 spark plug socket, to remove the spark plug. (It is located a few inches down in the tube)

Remember turn to the left to loosen.

Removing spark plug
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/removesparkplug.jpg

7. Once you have the spark plug loose, lift the socket out of the tube. The spark plug will be stuck in the rubber grommet inside the socket.

If you are using a regular 5/8 deep well socket, you can use a magnet to retrieve the plug.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/oldplug.jpg

8. Time to prepare the new plug. Check the gap, it should be set to .044 right out of the box. (Thanks to ti-claude31 for getting the info from NGK)
Mine were set to .045 so I left them at that. I doubt it would make much of a difference either way.

This would also be the step were you would add anti-seize to the threads on the plug.

Checking the plug gap
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/gap.jpg

I always compare it to the old plug as well. Make sure the threads are the same length.

Side by side
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/newbyold.jpg

9. Installing the new plug. (You should put the electric grease on the inside of the coil boot at this step)

A trick that us mechanics use, to prevent cross threading the spark plug, is to use the coil pack to get the threads started. It cushions the spark plug so your not forcing it into the cylinder head.

plug in coil boot.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/tricktoinstall.jpg

starting the plug.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/usecoiltostart.jpg

10. Use the ratchet and socket to tighten the plug the rest of the way. (this is were you would torque it to 10-14 ft lbs)

Tighten
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/oncestartedusedsocket.jpg

11. you can now push the coil back down on the spark plug.

Coil pushed in
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/pushincoil.jpg

12. Final step is to replace the torx screw, and plug the coil back in.

Be careful installing this screw as you can strip the plastic valve cover if you try to make it too tight. I'd say they should probably not be torqued to more than 5-10 ft. lbs. Basically no tighter than you would tighten a screw.

screw and plug
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/schoat333/spark%20plugs/torxscrewandplugin.jpg


Repeat this for each cylinder, and then re-install the engine cover when you are done.

Start her up, and make sure it runs smooth. :smiley_thumbs_up:

excellent step by step instructions one of the best but I thought the gap was .035 factory?

excellent step by step instructions one of the best but I thought the gap was .035 factory?

Everything I read said .045. The OE ones I took out were actually at .047.

NGK plugs are gapped from the factory, and come with a sleeve over the threads to keep the gap.

i checked on the ngk internet site and the precise gap is .044.

i checked on the ngk internet site and the precise gap is .044.

Good to know.

The computer at advance auto told me .045 and thats what the plug were set at right out of the box, so I didn't change em.

I'll update my post show the proper gap. Thanks for the heads up. :smiley_thumbs_up:

good post. Changing spark plugs used to be a lot easier, but that doesn't look too hard. Anybody have better performance with a platnum plug?

autolite recommends .035 for this application but all other brands I have found say .044-.045.

Nice post. I haven't had my Pat long enough to worry about the plugs. I had no idea how the system was designed. I guess plug wires are a thing of the past. Those coil packs look like they are $100 to $150 each.

Do those tubes go all the way to the head and keep dirt from collecting near the threaded hole? I have always cleaned around the old plug before breaking the torque.

Excellent post Schoat333. Thank-you.

I used your information and did mine this last weekend. Pretty easy job, just use caution when tightening them in. (17 Nm max)

After 36,740 km they looked functional, however well used. See picture below:

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6194&stc=1&d=1268017168

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6195&stc=1&d=1268017334

Do those tubes go all the way to the head and keep dirt from collecting near the threaded hole? I have always cleaned around the old plug before breaking the torque.
I wondered the same thing. That's one reason why I'm not too keen on using anti-seize. The correct torque is probably the most important thing when changing spark plugs. So many people have ruined their engines with overtightening...

Schoat333, very nice of you to make this instruction.

Changing the plugs is a breeze. I replaced with platinum, but will probably go back to copper. I utilize a 10" length of rubber fuel line hose that fits snuggly on the plug insulator to lower the plug into the abyss. The plug can then be safely started by hand and the hose twisted off. I also use anti-sieze (sparingly) on the threads and tighten with a 3/8" ratchet. Remove the ground to the battery for a few seconds to cause the computer management to reset - the engine needs to relearn with the new plugs.

For starting the plugs I just stick it into the plug socket (attached to the extension), lower it down in there, touch it to the head squarely, then turn it counter clockwise until I hear and feel the threads click (the start of the plug thread slips off the start of the head thread), then I hand tighten them to snug before putting the ratchet on there.

Darn near impossible to cross thread it that way.

Although your method is stellar, the rubber hose is even easier.

Like I already said, nice instructions you've made! One thing I'm wondering though: where did you find that torque value? From NGK's website I found 24 - 29 Nm (18.0~21.6 lb-ft.) with aluminum cylinder heads. Denso's recommended torque for M14 spark plugs is 20 - 30 Nm. And most importantly, Patriot's Service Manual says 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs).

Like I already said, nice instructions you've made! One thing I'm wondering though: where did you find that torque value? From NGK's website I found 24 - 29 Nm (18.0~21.6 lb-ft.) with aluminum cylinder heads. Denso's recommended torque for M14 spark plugs is 20 - 30 Nm. And most importantly, Patriot's Service Manual says 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs).

I must have been looking at the 12mm type. :doh:

thanks for the informative post if helps a lot of ppl who didn't know that

Patriot's Service Manual says 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs).
Having said that, there is also a another service manual that says 17.5 ±2 Nm (13 ±2 ft. lbs.)

Since both values are commonly used with automobile spark plugs neither one could be considered as wrong without further information. At this situation I would go for ~22 Nm as a compromise but this is just my decision.

available NGK plugs for the MK s


http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1441547

just found out from the E3 site..that if you don t have a tq wrench and want to 20lbs of tq..hand tighten the
plug..then use the socket wrench and go a extra 1/2 - 3/4 turn..

i ll stick with the half turn..

anyone have any experience with the E3 plugs?

I just installed a new set of NGKs. Using my torque wrench I discovered that its about a full turn from when it resists to 13 ft lbs. Just for laffs, I used the torque wrench to remove two of the old plugs and it took about 40 to loosen them.

As for the gaps, the old plugs were all over the board -- anywhere from .040 to .044. Can plugs change gaps from normal use? Can't believe the factory would have done that. They were overdue for a change (37.000 miles). The new ones out of the box were about .042 so I opened them up just a tad. Took it for a 10 mile ride and maybe its pure placebo, but I definitely felt a difference: it was smooth as silk. Especially nice on the hills because that was where I first sensed it skipping with the old plugs. I guess I hadn't noticed how rough it was running on the level, but it really seems to be smoother all around. My MPG was running in the low 30s on my last two longer trips; I'll be interested to see if it can get any better.

I'm going to change my plugs this weekend, after almost 18 months, but only 14,000 miles. I just always change plugs annually, no real reason.
I am wondering why people say the gap should be .045. My owner's manual and the sticker under the hood say .043 (1.1mm).

Well I did .043, but as in my previous post, the old ones that came out were several thousands either way. They were dirty, but didn't look burnt like those plugs from the '60s used to with the built-up crud in the gap. Also the coil assembly may resist when you remove it -- mine was a pretty snug fit.

Oh, and Schoat333, thanks for the helpful hint about using the coil assembly to start threading the new plugs. Works well.

Got mine done in less than half and hour, and I was taking my time. The old ones were still all pretty consistent at .043-.044. I set the new ones at .043.

Everything is well explained and seems easy except for the tightening part. That is scaring me. I need to do mine since my Pat has 37k miles. How much does the dealer charge for it?

Don't worry about the tightening part. Just hand tighten the plugs, then use the socket wrench to go another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, then move on. It's not that hard, and if you do it yourself, you'll spend about $2 per plug, a couple more for connector grease and a gapping tool. The dealer is going to hit you for $50 or better.
I've been changing my plugs for 25 years and never used a torque wrench, and managed never to mess anything up. You'll do fine.

My dealer said $150, so I did it myself. For $50 I would have let them do it. The parts store is within seeing distance of the dealership. My cost was about $20 including the extension I needed for my socket set.

Oh, and Schoat333, thanks for the helpful hint about using the coil assembly to start threading the new plugs. Works well.

No problem. It gives you a softer touch, so you dont accidentally cross thread the spark plug. That would be a mess.

I'm glad my post has been helpul.

My dealer said $150, so I did it myself. For $50 I would have let them do it. The parts store is within seeing distance of the dealership. My cost was about $20 including the extension I needed for my socket set.

$150? Now that's rape. Even $50 is pretty bad, considering the plugs are less than $3 a pop.

I plan on doing mine at 30,000 miles (I'm at 25,000 right now). My dad's Caliber has 70,000, and he still hasn't changed them! :eek: I'm definitely gonna help him get that done (he's not mechanically inclined).

Is this what I need?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5-8%22-x-6%22-Magnetic-Swivel-Spark-Plug-Socket-Gear-Wrench_25984192-P_N3411S_T|GRP2062____

Mods, feel free to remove the link if it's against the forum rules to post links to certain websites.

Just a heads up on the gap for the 2.0L engine, Checker says they should be at .40 and the NGK's were at .35 out of the box. Ill double check again in the manual but those are the numbers I'm getting so far.

I forgot I had posted here!

I changed the spark plugs on my dad's Caliber. I had to adjust the gap on the NGKs as well, but everything else went fine. My dad reports the engine is running smmother and the car is using less fuel. As soon as my Patriot reaches 30,000 miles, I'll be changing its spark plugs.

Thanks a lot for the instructions, Schoat333. :smiley_thumbs_up:

I changed my plugs this weekend. I wonder why the plugs look so nasty? Per the NGK instructions it said 1/2 to 2/3rd rotation after finger tight. So I went for the 1/2 turn.

Also I used an allen wrench since I didn't have a Torx in that size. It worked.

I was unable to start the plugs with the coil pack, it didn't seem to want to clear the mounting post when I turned it so I had to lower it down and shake it free from the coil boot and then finger tightened it with the socket.

excellent step by step instructions one of the best but I thought the gap was .035 factory?

Everything I read said .045. The OE ones I took out were actually at .047.

NGK plugs are gapped from the factory, and come with a sleeve over the threads to keep the gap.


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.43 is what Jeep says the gap should be.

FYI

My owners manual for a 2008 2.4L says to gap at .43.
The MOPAR plugs I got from the dealership (ZFR5F-11) came gapped at .35.

I changed the gap to .43 as the manual recommended.

We just put some NGK Iridium plugs in today. They are gapped at .043" as per the manual stating for the 2008.
Got them at Auto-Zone for 4@ $6.99/ea and a pack of anti-seize for good measure.
Anyone else try the iridiums yet? Thoughts?

I may go make a thread asking that same two part question above.

Wow! I feel stupid as I didn't realize you ought to change the plugs at 30,000 miles as I am use to 50,000 or so!

Thanks for the well written article. I have a 2009 with the 2.0 motor so I am thinking about getting it done ASAP.

Any thoughts about types of plugs?

Thanks in advance.

Wow! I feel stupid as I didn't realize you ought to change the plugs at 30,000 miles as I am use to 50,000 or so!

Thanks for the well written article. I have a 2009 with the 2.0 motor so I am thinking about getting it done ASAP.

Any thoughts about types of plugs?

Thanks in advance.

OEM NGK plug# ZFR5F-11

i feel stupid too, 2009 patriot with 49k. only done oil change

I went with some platinum NGKs. Runs a little better. Now need new tires and ordered them yesterday. Gets expensive at 45,000 miles....

I just changed my plugs yesterday after 65K and they were toast. The plugs were actually easy to change, except my socket keep getting hung up on the plugs after reinstalling them and it took 4 or 5 tries to get the socket out.

I used Champion copper plugs and they were gapped right at .044 out of the box.

Great write up!

I've used a bit of fuel line I have laying around. I cut a length of it, slip that over the end of the spark plug and start turning the plug with that to help prevent cross threading. But the TJ uses I think 3 coil packs spread over 6 cylinders. It's all one big assembly so you can't really use the coil to turn the plug.

I posted this in another spark plug thread, too; sorry if this looks redundant. I just put new NGK platinum plugs in my Patriot. Its all the store had for Patriot replacements so I thought I'd give them a try. Nothing to gap and the box advises against trying.

Anyone have comments on platinum plugs? Only problem I had was that the old ones came out fairly hard. Usually once broken loose they'll come out just turning with my fingers. I had to use my ratchet most of the way. I used anti-seize when I installed them and thankfully they weren't seized, but they turned hard all the way out. Had me scared at first -- thought they'd been cross threaded when I put them in.

Also noticed a ring of brown crust around the base of the porcelain. Scrapes off with the fingernail -- just surprised to see it. Gets heavier moving toward the driver's side.

The brownish stuff is corona stain, not unusual, and not a problem.

Great write-up...the one clarification I would offer is to turn the wrench COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen, and CLOCKWISE to tighten.

Changed them at 29,500...given a rare 48-degree day in early February in Michigan to work on the Riot outside, I figgered it was close enough:p

Decided to go with the $1.99 Champs...If I'm changing them this often, I don't need the fancy-pants patinums or iridiums or whaddever they call 'em...

All but one gapped @ .44....that one was .48......interesting to see how that will help gas mileage...right now I'm getting between 26-27 for combined freeway/street driving....not bad for winter....or given these 40+ degree temperatures, the lack of it...

Don't worry guys, I feel like an idiot too: I'm at 40K mi and just realized I'm 10K mi overdue for new plugs...perfect project for this weekend as I'm doing my oil and tire rotation as well :-)

And speaking of rape in this thread...my mother-in-law got charge $150 by the dealership to CHANGE HER WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES!!! I was irate and told her to get it done for free at Advance or Auto Zone. Only problem is, she kind of lives in BFE and is kind of old so would rather drive to the dealership than drive 2-3x as far for a parts store to do it.
I put it in pespective by telling her the $10 in fuel and 20-30 extra minutes she'd spend driving is probably worth saving ~$125 by just paying for the blades themselves and getting a free install...

my mother-in-law got charge $150 by the dealership to CHANGE HER WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES!!!

Did they do something else, too? If its only the blades, I think you should go see the dealership, and if necessary work your way to the owner's office and get an explanation (and refund). Don't let them take advantage of an old lady. $50 would be outrageous. $150 is 3X beyond outrageous.

Frankly, I'd push for a 100% refund and a letter of apology signed by the service manager, just for trying a dirty trick like that. Failing that I'd go to the local media. If nothing else, scan the invoice, and start a thread here and post it for all to see. Include the dealer's name and e-mail address -- maybe a pile of e-mails from all of us on Jeeppatriot.com would help persuade them.

Well, one thing us 2.0 owners can finally brag about - our spark plug changes are quicker since we don't have to wrestle with the plastic engine cover.

Now, our acceleration from the red light - definitely not quicker....

Ignatz - thank for the support. Unfortunately, this happened over 2 years ago and my mom in law didn't tell us about it until about 6-9 months after the fact...and with her being in NC and us being in MA it wasn't realistic to do much about it at the time. So I very emphatically explained to her that she got taken advantage of and that the next time she needs new wiper blades, she won't spend more than $30 for premium blades and installation at Advance or Auto Zone.

She sent me the receipt at the time, and I'm pretty sure they charged her what is very obviously an outrageous markup for the blades (maybe $50-$70 for Bosch or Rain-X...something they could pass off as 'the best you'll ever own') and then an hour's labor. Seriously?!? An HOUR to swap out wiper blades?!? I can change the same 2 front and 1 rear blades on any car in less than 10 minutes...maybe 15 if I enjoy a beer in the meantime. Overall it was very disappointing to hear about something like this, but since then, she's learned a valuable lesson...and she stopped going to that stealership haha.

Alright - almost two weeks after I proclaimed the need for new spark plugs, it finally happened...

Had a nice 'maintenance trifecta' weekend: Midas oil change for $15, took about 20 minutes...local shop did tire rotate and balance for $20, took about 30 minutes...I did the plugs for ~$12, took about 20 minutes.

I would've never imagined that any of those three things individually would impact MPG very significantly, but i've driven ~700 miles since all three were performed and I'm averaging almost 5MPG more than before! I'm probably 70% city 30% highway...still driving the same routes to and from work/gym/etc, still driving the same way I always have, and getting 25MPG vs ~20MPG before this maintenance...thrilled about it!

25MPG with 70% being in the city is darn good! I'll bet most of that is due to the new plugs. Way to go -- good work!

Nice write up thanks

Thanks Ignatz - I'm thrilled! Like I said, I would never imagine that any of these three components would have increased my MPG significantly if performed independently, but according to my EVIC, it seems like the combination of the three at the same time did some favors for my ride :-)

I didn't do any pics or 'how to' on the plugs because Schoat did such a great job initiating this thread...but I did want to share how much it seemed to improve my MPG.

Anybody who can tell me how long the extension for the socket should be. I do have an extension of 2 inch long. Would this be enough?

Not nearly. I use a 6" and its barely enough. If I wasn't so cheap I'd get a longer one. Another inch would help, another 2 inches would be sweet.

Oh, and Jorisss, in Schoat333's original post he listed the anti-sieze compound as optional, but I'd strongly recommend it. I used it, and they still came out hard the next time. I was a little more generous with the stuff the second time.

In Schoat333's original post he also suggested using the coil pack to start the new plug because it helps avoid cross threading. That is clever and it works. The coil pack might also be useful for retrieving the plug if you don't have an actual spark-plug socket with a rubber insert. Just a thought.

Not nearly. I use a 6" and its barely enough. If I wasn't so cheap I'd get a longer one. Another inch would help, another 2 inches would be sweet.

Thanks for the info Ignatz. Just bought a 6" extension, together with the 2" extension I should be able to reach the spark plug.
Already bought anti-seize compound and dielectric grease.
Will change the spark plugs today or tomorrow and hope they will make a difference (see http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94162 )

Thanks for the info, going to change mine myself very soon.

Called the dealer just to see what they charge for a spark plug change...wait for it...$210!!!

Thanks for the info, going to change mine myself very soon.

Called the dealer just to see what they charge for a spark plug change...wait for it...$210!!!

That's ridiculous. 4 NGK plugs would cost less than $15.

Changed my plugs over the weekend, haven't done a whole bunch of driving yet but it feels a bit better. Waiting to see if I get much of an increase in mpg, I'm currently at 24 in the city.