There are two Jeep Patriot Maintenance schedules, depending on your driving conditions. Almost everyone I know falls into schedule "B" (see criteria below).

That means you should change your oil every 5000 km (3000 miles). In the real world you can probably stretch this out a bit, especially if you are using a 5W-30 synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum.

Under no conditions should you try to stretch things beyond 10,000 km (6,000 miles). In that case you would be exceeding both schedule "B" and the more relaxed schedule "A" for less harsh driving conditions.

Schedule “B”. It is for vehicles that are operated under the conditions that are listed below and at the beginning of the schedule.


Day or night temperatures are below 0° C (32° F)
Stop and go driving
Extensive engine idling
Driving in dusty conditions
Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles)
More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 32° C (90° F)
Trailer towing
Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial service)
Off-road or desert operation
Heavy loading

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you then change your engine oil every 5 000 km (3,000 miles) or 3 months, whichever comes first and follow schedule “B”.

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you then change your coolant every 170 000 km (102,000 miles) or 60 months, whichever comes first and follow schedule “B”.

NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10 000 km (6,000 miles) or 6 months whichever comes first.

CAUTION: Failure to perform the required maintenance items may result in damage to the vehicle.

Hi I have the same message, my pat have 8300km, I changed the oil when 5,000km, can I just reset the message? (the level indicator is fine (safe), or it is necessary to change it?

It is too expensive going to the Jeep service, I want to change it myself, what brand of oil is recomended? 5W-30 synthetic?


thanks

I thought the Pat took 5W-20 oil?

I drive 100 miles a day, at least. I change every 3,000 miles, and use conventional oil.

Stop and go, highway, idle, and off road are normal for me.

There is no "conventional" 5w-20 that I know of. They all use at least a partially synthetic base stock. (i.e. on top of the additives)

To quote someone else on this forum, "you are poking a hornets nest" when you mention 5w-20 being the only weight option. We will have to leave it to you to search the forums and make your own decision.

I always use a synthetic 5w-30, however it may or may not be the best choice.


I thought the Pat took 5W-20 oil?

I drive 100 miles a day, at least. I change every 3,000 miles, and use conventional oil.

Stop and go, highway, idle, and off road are normal for me.

my Patriot is our families 3rd vehicle..only take her out on weekends or
an occasional trip *all freeway* up to norcal..

we do have 5w-20 Cheveron and that s what s in her now..every 5k..

How accurate is the oil change indicator? Should I change the oil every 3,000 miles or only when the indicator says to?

The indicator does a "best guess" based on a conventional oil, RPM, distance and driver habits. It cannot test or evaluate the condition of your oil.

The safe answer is every 5000 km. In the real world if you use a synthetic you can go to 10,000 km with no issue I am sure. I use 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP and go to 8,000 km.

There are several right answers to your question, that I am sure of.


How accurate is the oil change indicator? Should I change the oil every 3,000 miles or only when the indicator says to?

ya.does anyone know how to reset the oil change reminder?

It is in the Owners Manual.


You put the key in the ignition
Turn to the key to power on the accessories (but do not start the engine)
Immediately after doing so press down and release the accelerator pedal 3x


Try once or twice if it does not work the first time.


ya.does anyone know how to reset the oil change reminder?

It is in the Owners Manual.


You put the key in the ignition
Turn to the key to power on the accessories (but do not start the engine)
Immediately after doing so press down and release the accelerator pedal 3x


Try once or twice if it does not work the first time.

ill try it.. thanks..:smiley_thumbs_up:

Mobil 1 5-20W are available now at (US) Walmart for around $23.00 for 5Q. It is a very good deal. I just did my (early) 1 year oil change (1 year May15), as it has just over 21,000Km. I provided the oil & filter, the Jeep dealer changed $26 + Tax, and did a recall notice on the sunroof.
Did the first oil change back when the Pat was at 5,000Km. IMHO, using Mobil 1 and just doing regular daily driving & under 20,000km/12,000miles, you should be good for every 12 months oil change. But do check your dip stick on a regular basis.

ill try it.. thanks..:smiley_thumbs_up:

worked, thanks

my oil change warning started chiming about 3k miles.. yet the book shows an oil change every 6k.. i changed it with castrol full synthetic 5/20 and a Bosh oil filter.. it was only 27.00 for 5 qts and the filter on sale at Advance auto.. they always have a deal going on from time to time and ill just take what ever is on sale as long it is a good name brand. Got to keep the Jeep Cheap. lol

No problem Gotjep. Glad to help.

Oil Changes and Maintenance Schedules Maintenance. ... There are two Jeep Patriot Maintenance schedules, depending on your driving ...

Mine has been going off since 2500 miles. I'm at 2800 right now. Bit annoying.

Mine has been going off since 2500 miles. I'm at 2800 right now. Bit annoying.

Yea, most everyone had the first oil change occur early. Mine was at 2700 miles, but it now goes off every 5500-5800 miles. (I just changed it last night as a matter of fact, 5 qts of Valvoline SynBlend 5w-30 and a Purolator Pure One filter, 19.99 at Advance Auto).

Change the oil, then follow the instructions in the posts above to reset the light.

for right now, till the warranty is up.. i ll stick with the recommended
service intervals..every 6,000 miles..

afterwards i ll change over to Royal Purple..read a review in 4x4 magazine that synthetics really do their best over 10,000 miles..

My oil change light came on this morning and i had 2500 miles on it. But i had already changed the oil on thursday night with about 2400 on it because i like to do the first one early to get good stuff in it. I am using 5w-20 synth blend for the first 10K then will change over to full synth. Going to go down on break today and try and reset the reminder.

Hi I have the same message, my pat have 8300km, I changed the oil when 5,000km, can I just reset the message? (the level indicator is fine (safe), or it is necessary to change it?

It is too expensive going to the Jeep service, I want to change it myself, what brand of oil is recomended? 5W-30 synthetic?


thanks

Too Expensive? How much is your dealer charging you? Mine gave me a contract for four oil changes with the filter and oil for 32 dollars. 8 per oil change. It also works with any dealership in the country. That is a lot cheaper than doing it yourself.

is there a reason why your using 5w-30 when the owner manual call s for
5w-20 ?..calif..we have it in conventional, semi-syn and full syn..*pg. 549 of the owners manual..Lubricants which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number SHOULD NOT
BE USED..ie, 5w-20

our local Speedy has it as well as the dealer..seems the dealer is now offering
oil changes $2 under Speedy s..and they re using the semi-syn oil..

is there a reason why your using 5w-30 when the owner manual calls for 5w-20 ?

Yes --> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

specifically:
Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30).

If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture.

Since Summer is coming, I wanted the slightly thicker oil to handle our 98 deg. F days here (I do run 5w20 in the winter). Also, this is probably why Jeep only gives the 'Riot a 1000lb tow capacity without the oil cooler, and 2000lb with. From an engineering standpoint, I'd also argue this is the reason our jeeps have two coolant thermostats, a main stat which opens at 180 deg. F and a secondary that adds additional cooling circulation at 203 deg. F. Hotter temperatures produce better fuel economy and less emissions (my wifes GMC runs at 220 deg. F), yet this modern engine runs at a relatively cool 180-190 deg. F? And to conclude, Chrysler has released a letter (which is archived somewhere on this site) saying 5w-30 is also acceptable and will not void the warranty. YMMV! ;)

thanks..if you find that letter, please post it to this thread..

This thread: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15541
and this post: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showpost.php?p=162488&postcount=38

I suggest you read those carefully, and pay attention to the wording. Chrysler is not "recommending" 5w30, or "un-recommending" 5w20; just saying that if 5420 is unavailable, 5w30 which meets certain specs is okay to use. The TSB referenced specifically references export vehicles because in some places 5w20 is not yet common.
Neither vis is going to kill you engine, but 5w30 has not proven itself in any way more beneficial than 5w20. I haven't seen any bad UOA's with any 5w20 oil in any brand.
Of course, do what makes you feel good.

I suggest you read those carefully, and pay attention to the wording. Chrysler is not "recommending" 5w30, or "un-recommending" 5w20; just saying that if 5420 is unavailable, 5w30 which meets certain specs is okay to use. The TSB referenced specifically references export vehicles because in some places 5w20 is not yet common.
Neither vis is going to kill you engine, but 5w30 has not proven itself in any way more beneficial than 5w20. I haven't seen any bad UOA's with any 5w20 oil in any brand.
Of course, do what makes you feel good.

Whether it's a domestic or international model doesn't mean anything where the engine is concerned. It's the same engine. 5w20 may not be common, but the wording is pretty specific.
The Manufacturer recommends using SAE 5W-30 engine oil for all future engine oil change maintenance intervals.
I personally feel 5W-20 was purely a CAFE standards move. The fact that you need an oil cooler for the 2000lb tow capacity, and our Jeeps run at a relatively cool 180-190 deg. F also suggests they are protecting the lighter weight oil from shearing. These are just my observations and speculations from the information available and YMMV.

It says specifically for export models, and it's for the reason I gave. I haven't seen a single example of a decent 5W20 shearing, although many 5w30's will shear considerably. The TSB also states that any 5w30 used must meet the listed specs I would like to see any documented case of an engine worn out or damaged by using 5w20 oil.
Like I said though, people get religious about this, and if running 5w30 makes you feel better, it's not going to damage anything.

It says specifically for export models, and it's for the reason I gave. I haven't seen a single example of a decent 5W20 shearing, although many 5w30's will shear considerably. The TSB also states that any 5w30 used must meet the listed specs I would like to see any documented case of an engine worn out or damaged by using 5w20 oil.
Like I said though, people get religious about this, and if running 5w30 makes you feel better, it's not going to damage anything.

I only use 5w30 in the summer, then I swap back to 5w20, but full synthetic in both. I suppose as long as people don't go super cheap on the oil, it should be just fine under normal driving conditions and proper changes....

NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10 000 km (6,000 miles) or 6 months whichever comes first.

CAUTION: Failure to perform the required maintenance items may result in damage to the vehicle.


Hmmm, I'm from the UK, and our service intervals are 9k miles,
I bought ours as an ex-demo from a main dealer and it wasnt serviced until 10k, so I have continued the interval. (10,20,30 etc)

I know we aren't as warm or dusty as you lot, but 3k miles between oil changes !?!, the dealer charges £60 ($100) for the oil alone, I can get it locally for £40.

My wife's Seat ibiza has a 20k service interval, it has a VW 2.0 litre Turbodiesel engine. Sound familiar ?

Miff

"Thicker in summer, thinner in winter" is what I've always done. 10-30 oil can be a problem when it gets -0F. Jeep recommends the engine heater if it gets garaged below -20. At -25 Ignatz still starts, but he grumbles. (Usually he's inside, but that time my old Pontiac's battery was weak and I knew darn well it wouldn't start in the AM if I left outside.)

I don't have much experience at high temps, but it can hit 90+ in summer, even in New England. If I were much south of here I'd talk to an oil-change place for the low-down; they'd know what's going on in their area/climate. The dealer is just going to read the manual to you.

Motor oil is a never ending discussion amount motorist.

Here what i know about motor oil.

Conventional multi-grade motor oil start with a oil base. Some additive is add to the oil to increase viscosity at low temperature.

The first number is the winter viscosity. 5W is more fluid than 10W at the same cold temperature. The second number is the normal operation viscosity at the working temperature.

Your engine was design with a specific working temperature (control by the thermostat) and a specific viscosity in mind. In this case SAE20.

Back in the days. User manual request to change motor oil according to the kind of temperature the car was use in. Ex for my old car: 5W30 bellow 0C (32F) and 10W30 over 0C (32F). They both have the same viscosity at working temperature but 5W30 has a lower temperature of operation and more additive. They did not recommend keeping the 5W30 year round. I don't know why.
This lead to confusion to customer, so now 1 oil fit all.

If your car never go in winter condition you may not need the 5W. but it's important to stick to the 20. Some old car owner used to change to higher oil viscosity to reduce oil consumption

I don't understand what is the gain to change from 5W20 in winter to 5W30 in summer? Maybe lower fuel economy with 5W30 as the viscosity will be higher for the same engine temperature!! ;)

BTW. I prefer synthetic oil.

There is a "deal" with Chrysler where you can purchase a 4 Oil Change Package for the Patriot @ $60.00 USD + Tax. At that price it doesn't pay to do it yourself + you are guaranteed no later Warantee issues.

I have a 2010 Patriot 2.4L with the manual, currently I have 30,000kms and am just changing my oil as the indicator just came on again. Now the question I have is after the break in I switched to 5w20 Mobil1 synthetic oil and drive 99.5% highway (mountain passes), my weekly trip consists of 1000km drives each way only stopping to fill up with gas but even before 5000kms the oil starts to get dark (not black) and I'm changing it here at 9000kms and its dark but again not black, but there is a bit of smell of gas in the oil. I was just wondering if this is normal or not?

Any ideas? I plan on keeping this patriot to 300,000kms plus so I want to make it last :)

Color of the oil is not indicative of very much.
About the gas smell, have you changed the air filter yet?

Hmmm ..sniffing oil....thats a new one on me .....& Ive been driving 48 yrs...lol

Have a dealer check it or get an oil analysis through Blackstone or some other company that offers that service. Gas in the oil is not a good thing.

Fuel dilution make be caused by the air filter being dirty(even if it looks clean), that's why I asked if it had been changed.

i have a 2.0crd patriot , and i use castrol edge 5w-40 oil. i change the oil to 15.000km even if that tipe of oil you must change to 20.000km. now i want to change with shell 5w-30 oil , and with shell i'll change to 10.000km , because castrol edge has a big price.

porto , if you have gas in oil , your problem is near the pistons , the only way where the gas can go in oil

Vancouverpatriot88, after 9000km, I would expect the oil to take on a slight gasoline odor. When the engine is running, you will get a certain amount of combustion blow-by past the rings and down into the crankcase. That's what the PCV system is there for, to pull those gases back out of the crankcase and try to burn them again. While the engine is running, there is going to be a spray mist of oil in there as well, some of the gases (and even small liquid gasoline droplets) will be absorbed by the small oil mist particles. Most of these will "boil" out of the oil on long trips (as well as moisture) but over the long haul, it is slowly changing and breaking down the oil. So long as the oil still feels thick and slippery, I wouldn't worry about it having a slight gasoline smell. I've seen oil that has been diluted with lots of gas, it starts to resemble a light machine oil (like 3-in-1 oil, or sewing machine oil) and does not feel thick and slick between the fingers (and the odor is over powering).

Oh and as others have said, an oil analysis will tell you what's really going on.

Thanks guys. My Saturn did the same thing (I can't remember if it always did it or not) but the engine was still going strong past 300k... the only reason I brought it up was because when I pulled the dipstick it obviously smelled like gas. Anyone have a suggestion for who to use for an oil analysis? and I will change the air filter to see what happens.

Just try Blackstone for an inexpensive UOA.

Thanks guys. My Saturn did the same thing (I can't remember if it always did it or not) but the engine was still going strong past 300k... the only reason I brought it up was because when I pulled the dipstick it obviously smelled like gas. Anyone have a suggestion for who to use for an oil analysis? and I will change the air filter to see what happens.

The Saturn engines (1.9L SOHC and DOHC) had a well known problem with their piston oil control rings cokeing up and sticking causing an oil burning problem. The replacement pistons had larger oil drain back holes to help stop the problem. My 93 Saturn SL2 had this problem at 118k miles when I rebuilt it. Everything parts wise was in good shape though so I just put new rings and bearings in, but drilled out the original pistons oil return holes larger to match the new style pistons. I sold it with 180k miles on it and it was still running very strong.

As Wooden Dog posted: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

As for oils in conventional engines yes, I would think a 10w30 would be ideal in a little 2.4L 4 cylinder, but we have to realize that our engine isn't conventional in the matter of VVT.

There is a "deal" with Chrysler where you can purchase a 4 Oil Change Package for the Patriot @ $60.00 USD + Tax. At that price it doesn't pay to do it yourself + you are guaranteed no later Warantee issues.

How can one get this? Through the dealer?

It is in the Owners Manual.


You put the key in the ignition
Turn to the key to power on the accessories (but do not start the engine)
Immediately after doing so press down and release the accelerator pedal 3x
.............

Won't that "flood" the engine? ;)
Honestly y'all, this must the the most civil oil-thread I've ever read on any forum. I have seen some on motorcycle forums degrade to threats of in-person "visits"!
'good read, here.........
Tommy

I wouldn't think so, the engine has an electronic throttle, and is fuel injected. so there would be no fuel movement. i think thats why because no carb...

if anyone has anything awesome. this is just somewhat of what i remember why it wouldn't flood.

on the 2.0 CRD the intervals are 15000km (9000 miles) using 5w -30 Castrol SLX Professional flow or Castrol Edge.
I asked the dealer if it is best to change quicker and they said no,because normally the 5w-30 is a long life maintenance program oil,this meaning it can be driven 30000km.
apparently they have this long-life maintenance program with vw-audi (the 2.0 CRD is a VAG engine).
so i change every 15000 km as in the book.

Do some of you in the States really change your oil 3 or 4 times a year? It seems incredible. I can't believe the service intervals on UK specs either.
We also have a Renault Megane 1.6 which only needs a service every 2 years or 18,000 miles!

Do some of you in the States really change your oil 3 or 4 times a year? It seems incredible. I can't believe the service intervals on UK specs either.
We also have a Renault Megane 1.6 which only needs a service every 2 years or 18,000 miles!

Yea, some do. Every 3000 miles became a cult following over here. I don't. I change mine when the change oil indicator shows up, usually every 5500-5800 miles. I do this to keep my lifetime powertrain warranty, but I know the oil can last longer.

Do many American cars have such short intervals? Makes you wonder if its some kind of deliberate myth to maintain sales when cars are now incredibly more reliable and efficient, as are their lubricants.

Do many American cars have such short intervals? Makes you wonder if its some kind of deliberate myth to maintain sales when cars are now incredibly more reliable and efficient, as are their lubricants.

Indeed, it is a "well-oiled" industry (pun intended). They make you feel guilty if you do not change your oil under regular driving as least as frequently as it is required under the harshest conditions... Yes, it takes a few dollars to change it but it is a total waste to do it that frequently most of the time... If people followed the manufacturer's guidelines (who, I am sure, keep it also well on the safe side) the interval would be at least twice as long. :icon_rolleyes:

mine,s reached 4123k ,bought her band new.and the oil change display is chiming n showing up on the dash . guess its a glitch?2010 north all season 4x4

I got the first change done on my 2011 yesterday. It was only at 4200 miles but Im getting ready to make a road trip from VA to OK towing a trailer, so I wanted it to be fresh. My Oil change indicator came on at 2800 miles, but I just ignore it. The funny thing is that when I got the service done, they put the little sticker on the window saying it needed another change in 3000 miles. I asked the service writer why it said 3000 when my manual clearly says 8000 and I dont believe Chrysler sells any cars now that have a 3000 mile interval. His explanation was, "Thats the way its always been." Since I changed it halfway through its life, and plan on putting some heavy use on this change, Ill change again at 8000, and then just stick to the schedule. Normally I use my vehicle for pretty light duty moving dogs and guitars around, so its not exactly putting strain on it. I see no reason to change at 3000 miles no matter what the sticker on the window, the light on the dash, or the guy at the service department think. (Dont let my dad hear me say that:) )

Thev'e been reading Gullibles Travels !!!!!Modern engines ---Once every 1or 2 years or between 9.000--18.000 miles.

Oil companies & manufacturers have the USA by the Testicles !!!

Never been able to understand how the diesel VW engine installed in the Jeep CRD in Europe can go for 9,000 miles between oil changes and yet this daft 3,000 miles thing in the USA persists, for petrol engines. In the UK a Petrol engined car can often go many more miles than 9k between oil changes.

Someone has got it wrong, or right I suppose, depending on who is taking the hard earned money from the driver!

Unless, the quality of the oil in Europe is to a higher standard? We certainly pay a lot more for it, that in the USA.

The truth is it's a rip off! Plain and simple.

How accurate is the oil change indicator? Should I change the oil every 3,000 miles or only when the indicator says to?

I may say that it is not accurate since but it may be nearest to truth. It just measure approximate indicator. :doh:

Oil change Indicator every 3.000 miles ???????? Turn the Bloody thing off or Ignore it!!

The indicator just turned on for my new 2010 Patriot at around 4,000KM. Seems a little low to me. Is is the expected for the first oil change?

the book is 6 months or 6K miles whichever comes first.

I have a 08 pat 2wd and I change it every 5K miles OR 5 months.
I have the lifetime warranty and plan to do everything by the book.
If you don't have a lifetime warranty then I would change it every 3K miles for dino oil and every 5K for synthetic.

I got my jeep in March 2008, I have had it for 3 years so far (2 years 355 days).
I have 38.4K miles on it.
I changed the oil every 3K for the first 2 oil changes, then did 4k for the third (got me to the 10K mark) then did it every 5K since.
If the light comes on before the 5K mark, I reset it. It has only happened one time since I have owned it. I always have the dealer change the oil.

I have purchased 2 new tires about 10K miles ago because I trashed one (nail in sidewall) so I got 40K miles on the back and 10K on the front.
I still got some miles left on the 40K pair but I may change them out at the end of this month. I am loaning my Jeep to my best friend for a month so he can drive to NY and stay with his girlfriend.

The indicator just turned on for my new 2010 Patriot at around 4,000KM. Seems a little low to me. Is is the expected for the first oil change?

Yea, most folks on here had the first indicator fire off at about 1/2 the normal interval. It seems to go close to every 6k miles after that.

Actually, I was told by a former mechanic (and current teacher of "power tech" type shop classes for an area high school) that the biggest reason to do a 3,000 mile oil change is because of additives in the oil that start breaking down after that length of time. He said that besides the ability of the oil to lubricate, there are other things involved, like rust inhibitors and detergents put in the oil.

Since then, though, I've also belonged to car owner groups for various vehicles where people claimed they regularly sent off samples of their used motor oil to a test lab for analysis. Typically, they concluded that 3,000 miles is a little earlier than necessary to change their oil -- but sometimes, a 5,000 - 6,000 mile interval seemed appropriate.

I suspect there are actually a lot of factors involved, including the tendency for some engines to get a little bit of fuel into the oil, polluting it and reducing its efficiency. Also, don't forget that in the U.S.A., most drivers really don't do a lot of regular maintenance on their vehicles. The 3,000 mile oil change they go to the quick-lube place for also serves as the interval their tires get refilled with air to the proper pressure and their other fluids get checked and refilled if needed, air filter checked, etc. If they started suggesting people hold off on the oil changes for a lot longer, they'd be driving around for months with low tires, dirty air filters and worn out wiper blades.....


Never been able to understand how the diesel VW engine installed in the Jeep CRD in Europe can go for 9,000 miles between oil changes and yet this daft 3,000 miles thing in the USA persists, for petrol engines. In the UK a Petrol engined car can often go many more miles than 9k between oil changes.

Someone has got it wrong, or right I suppose, depending on who is taking the hard earned money from the driver!

Unless, the quality of the oil in Europe is to a higher standard? We certainly pay a lot more for it, that in the USA.

The truth is it's a rip off! Plain and simple.

An engine cooling system is engineered to maintain an engine at the designed operating temperature.

Barring a cooling system failure, 20 grade synthetic oil will satisfy engine lubrication requirements.

From the OM, "Driving with a hot engine cooling system could damage your vehicle. If the temperature gauge reads “H” pull over and stop the vehicle. Idle the vehicle with the air conditioner turned off until the pointer drops back into the normal range. If the pointer remains on the “H” and you hear continuous chimes, turn the engine off immediately, and call an authorized dealership for service."

A cooling system failure will place a vehicle out of commission, until repaired.

This is worth repeating. Barring a cooling system failure, 20 grade synthetic oil will satisfy the engine lubrication requirement.

Synthetic oil thickens when the engine is cooled below designed operating temperature (such as a vehicle parked overnight).

5W-20 oil will thicken more than 0W-20 oil when cooled. When starting a cold engine, 0W-20 will start out "less thick" and "thin out" sooner than 5W-20 oil.

0W-20 will reach proper operating viscosity sooner than 5W-20 oil.

I read this thread twice and see no mention of using 0W-20 grade oil.

My engine will be started cold with thick oil.

My engine may never suffer a cooling system failure.

So, why not use 0W-20 oil?

Oil DOESNT break down !! When it is centefugally filtered 20,000 mile oil goes back in the Stock Pot !! Its almost impossible for oil to lose its lubricating properties.
I read a report where a guy with a Caddy is USA , told his dealer to stop sticking 3000 change reminders on his windscreen, he book said 8,500 mile changes.

After his Cadillac had got to 150,000 miles with no problems with long changes , he started to sent samples of oil to a lab to get them checked. He sent samples at 3.000---5.000 & 8.000 miles . Reports came back the same . Minimal degradation of oil with no signs of breakdown or contamination . Nice & clear in colour & still up to car manufacturers specifications, all OK for another 8.000 miles . Bear in mind this from a car that had already done 150.000 miles .

Jiffy Lube & Oil companies are twisting your testicles ......

I just looked it up & found that when the Chrysler Neon was sold in the UK ( up to 2005) The oil change interval for the UK was 12 months or 12.000 miles.??

I was planning on changing every 5000 miles like I have done on all my cars. Questions does the first oil change need to be done early, I checked the oil yesterday with 2700 on it and it seems very dark, does that mean anything. When should I have the first oil change done? Call the dealer service department and they answered my question with change it once the light goes on :confused:

I was planning on changing every 5000 miles like I have done on all my cars. Questions does the first oil change need to be done early, I checked the oil yesterday with 2700 on it and it seems very dark, does that mean anything. When should I have the first oil change done? Call the dealer service department and they answered my question with change it once the light goes on :confused:



personally i`ve owned few big rigs over the years and every time the first oil change i did after 3000 miles because all the crap that the oil washes out from a brand new engine, all the grease used during assembly and any potential small metal particles that may have been left behind, some will argue that this was way too soon but when you think of the price of a new engine vs the cost of an oil change it only made sense to do it earlier rather than later, i`ve treated my suv`s same way when it comes to first oil change even thou the dealer said it was ok to wait till 5000 miles rolls around

There is very little or no crap washed out of a brand new modern engines...Modern micro filters , fully synthetic oils & engines built to very high specs/tolerances see to that . Get real this 2011 not 1959............

Oil DOESNT break down !! When it is centefugally filtered 20,000 mile oil goes back in the Stock Pot !! Its almost impossible for oil to lose its lubricating properties.
I read a report where a guy with a Caddy is USA , told his dealer to stop sticking 3000 change reminders on his windscreen, he book said 8,500 mile changes.

After his Cadillac had got to 150,000 miles with no problems with long changes , he started to sent samples of oil to a lab to get them checked. He sent samples at 3.000---5.000 & 8.000 miles . Reports came back the same . Minimal degradation of oil with no signs of breakdown or contamination . Nice & clear in colour & still up to car manufacturers specifications, all OK for another 8.000 miles . Bear in mind this from a car that had already done 150.000 miles .

Jiffy Lube & Oil companies are twisting your testicles ......

Tiptronic,
Sorry to break it to you man, but oil does break down.... It even breaks down naturally by itself let alone the heat, and metal on metal friction.

when it turns black it looses its viscosity, (Lubricity) the extreme heat and friction no matter how well the oil does metal on metal still causes small shavings. and yes it's 2011 but oil does break down and If you book says 3k or 5k do it. most say 3k if you do off pavement/ towing or 5k if it's commuting.


If you could show me the article with the lab sampling oil I will read it thoroughly.

Sorry to throw this in here but see my post on blown engine and Chryslers oil change stand. It may save you all some heartache.

So does anyone know the oil filter size on a 2011 Jeep Patriot. I went to change my oil today for the first time hitting my 3000 mile mark and the oil filter is stuck on so tight that it bent my old adjustable oil filter wrench. Does anyone know the socket size I am going to pick one up tomorrow morning so I can finish the job.

Thank god for K&N filters. can't wait to put the new one on so this wont happen again.

I was planning on changing every 5000 miles like I have done on all my cars. Questions does the first oil change need to be done early, I checked the oil yesterday with 2700 on it and it seems very dark, does that mean anything. When should I have the first oil change done? Call the dealer service department and they answered my question with change it once the light goes on :confused:

Yar, you'll get a Change Oil message and a friendly ding sound when it's time to change the oil. Most folks on the forum had the first reminder go off between 2500-3500 miles (a tad early considering the book says every 6 months or 6k miles).

Jloff, the color of the oil means nothing as far as it's condition. On most diesel engines, the oil goes completely black within a few hundred miles, but it can still lubricate just fine for several thousands of miles.

Yar, you'll get a Change Oil message and a friendly ding sound when it's time to change the oil. Most folks on the forum had the first reminder go off between 2500-3500 miles (a tad early considering the book says every 6 months or 6k miles).

Jloff, the color of the oil means nothing as far as it's condition. On most diesel engines, the oil goes completely black within a few hundred miles, but it can still lubricate just fine for several thousands of miles.

Thanks for the info Todde, I am going to wait til 5000 and then every 5000.

I have 500km on my Pat, when its ...1000+ I will switch to Amsoil 5-30 and run it for 12 months,with a good oil filter, used it for over 30 years, never a problem 5-20 is what the manufactor used to get a better MPG rating CAFE I believe (about 1% better), its thinner when hot,so it does not protect as well as 5-30. dealer will give me a hard time when I go in for service, book says oil and fiter change every 13000 KM, or 6 months, when I mention Amsoil,he will back off

I change mine every 3K miles, just an old habit. My oil change light just came on, and I have almost 1K miles to go for the next change, it never came on for the last one so I never re-set it, so I'm guessing the change indicator is telling me to change at about 5k miles.

My indicator light just came on too. However, I've changed the oil not even 3k miles ago and I put fully synthetic. My first light came on at around 2500 and now it came on at 5400. It seems weird to me. So I just reset it and going to drive another 2k or so before changing it.

The 5W-20, 10,000 kms oil change guideline is assuming you are driving in moderate temperature and using synthetic oil. Here in Canada, winter mornings are -20C (-10F) and July afternoons are +35C (100F). I would use 5-20 Synthetic in the winter and 5W-30 synthetic (and possibly 5w-30 conventional) in the summer. 5-20 conventional oil in +30C weather is asking for trouble, as the "20" means the oil acts as an SAE 20 at operating temperature, which is fairly thin, and even thinner in high heat. There's usually sale on synthetic oil like Pennzoil Ultra or Castrol Syntec in the $20 range, which will flow nicely in winter and not thin out to water in the heat.

Also, put an extra 200ml's of oil when filling it up (4.3-4.4l total), to compensate for the oil burn off that happens. Last oil change I put in 4.2L's and only 3.9L came out 3 months later (and the engine was cold too)

Just this past week I changed the oil in my wife's 2007 Jeep Patriot aka "Jeep Jeep" with 5W-30 Pennzoil that I purchased from our local NAPA auto parts store and a NAPA Gold Oil Filter. When I got home I contacted Crystal Chysler and asked one of the service advisors about running the 5W-30 oil, he stated that the 5W-20 was designed to be used for the hemi engines, it would be okay for the Jeep Jeep and it would not void the warranty. Thank you for the numerous information on the Jeep.
Ben

I had the dealership change my oil in my 2011 Patriot Sport and the next day my oil light was back on, I went through the steps on my own to try and reset the oil light but no luck. Any ideas?

I had the dealership change my oil in my 2011 Patriot Sport and the next day my oil light was back on, I went through the steps on my own to try and reset the oil light but no luck. Any ideas?

Re-read the Owners Manual and try again.

From the OM...

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do not
start the engine.
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.
NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
reset. If necessary repeat this procedure.

CDN PAT - you want to drain your oil when the engine is at operating temperature...at least that's what my automech teacher taught us, and here's why: at operating temp, all of the oil is hot and viscous enough to all drain out when you open the drain plug.

Based on this theory, if you change your oil when your engine is cold, not all of it will come out because it's too thick to move down to the drain plug. Seems reasonable to me, and my automech teacher was really freakin smart, so I'm on board...anyone see discrepancies in this theory?

Plus, maybe it's just me (and I'm no mechanic) but I don't think an engine thats only 4 years old should really be burning off any oil??? If you think about all of the lubricated parts in your engine, it stands to reason that about 1/3L didn't make it down because it was too cold (therefore, thick) to come out before you plugged the drain plug...?

Here is my info...

I bought with 49 kms (30 miles) on the vehicle, am at 6,000 kms (3,730 miles) a month later and no oil change light.

I did change break in oil at 5,000 kms. I just couldn't go the 12,000 kms the manual said I could!

I'm at sea level in what is called a temperate rain forest zone so rarely below freezing and rarely above 25° C or 75° F.

So I use owners manual recommendations and due to my type of driving (no city, 20% urban, 80% highway or two lane) plan on having the engine last a good long time.
I'm always grabbing my wife's or son's vehicle and taking it out for a real run as they just toot around town...got to get that running gear up to temp and boil all the moisture out of things.