I want to purchase the bumper mounted driving lights. Anyone have these? How difficult are they to install? Do I need to purchase a separate wire kit? Any idea as to cost? I'm having some paint work done and am wondering if I should have it done there, or wait and intall them myself.
Any advice would be appreciated...
-Graham

I am considering doing the same. Don;t buy the MOPAR ones though. They are overpiced, just get a pair of Hella 500s.

Are you going to wire them to the high beams or ad a switch?

I'm not sure...probably wire them to the high beams, although it would be nice to have them on with the lows as well. I will have to think about it...I suppose if I went with the switch option I would have to mount it somewhere. Also I could just have them on all the time correct?

Regardless of what you pick, I would love to see the pictures of the work completed. But if you do decide to go with the switch, you can use the 1 spare switch we have in the console where the esp, emergency lights are. If I am not mistaken, you should have one slot free to use.

Measures 6 3/8” diameter x 6 7/8" high x 2 5/8" deep/
Above is info I got off net about Hella 500's,
I do not see how these will fit into the driving light
openings in the bumper?Any ideas?

Measures 6 3/8” diameter x 6 7/8" high x 2 5/8" deep/
Above is info I got off net about Hella 500's,
I do not see how these will fit into the driving light
openings in the bumper?Any ideas?

look at gstrub's avatar. They are talking about mounting them ON the bumper. :)

No matter what lights you decide to get, If it were me, I would get the Mopar wire kit. The Patriots lights are controlled by the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) The switch simply signals the TIPM to turn the lights on. This includes the high beams. If you choose to wire to the high beams, you will definitely want to use a relay.

WE just got the news that our dealer could not add our lights... we have ordered the fog lights that go in the bumper and the round 6" ones that go above the bumper. In Quebec, I think its a Canada thing, we have to have daytime running lamps and the dealer does not want to deactivate that option to wire our other lights. So my husband just ordered the lights and did not take the wiring kit. Guess he will have it done elsewhere or just install them as decoration for the time being... Until he decides how to do it on a separate switch. I hope these things are not to hard to install... Ours cost 179$ Canadian. Ciao!

Driving light wire kits are sold at most autopart chain type stores. Usually comes with wiring, relay, and switch. I think they are around $10-$15 US dollars.

Bumper mounted lights would look great on a Patriot. Tie them into the high beams if you can, but you might just be able to tie them to the light switch since everything is computer controlled now.

Also, no matter what kit you use, you'll need to run a relay. The relay can power the lights without having to put a strain on the source wire that you tap into...

I will have no idea how to wire them to the high beams. Will there be instructions on how to do this?

I will have no idea how to wire them to the high beams. Will there be instructions on how to do this?

the "trigger" wire for the relay gets connected to the high beam. It basically just senses a current and uses a fraction of it to close the circuit for the lights allowing them to get current from where ever you get the 12v for the lights(most likely the battery) Really all the relay will do for you is to allow the high beam to turn on the fog lights with out using juice from the high beams to do it. I dont know if explained this well or not but you can do a search on relays and learn more than you ever wanted to... :)

D-Dan your right he did say bumper mount.... Sorry bout that.......
I'm looking for lights to fit in factory bumper location.

I have been chewing on the idea of the top of the bumper driving lights, not to be confused with the fog lamps in the bumper. We have mucho deer out here and winding dark country roads, so extra light would be a good idea. I once had driving lights like that on my Triumph TR-3 and they were great for dark road driving. I would not want to tie them in with the brights, but would mount a separate switch on the dash for them. That way I could use them as needed.

I like the Hella with the rock protector grids and would mount them a bit inboard in front of openings 2 and 6. Good luck with your choice!:smiley_thumbs_up:

You could also get a 3-position switch. In the center position the lights will be off no matter what the condition of the vehicle lighting. If you flip it down the lights will come on and stay on as long as the switch stays in that position. If you flip the switch up, the lights will come on with the vehicles high beams. I would recommend doing it this way so when you are on the highway you don't have to turn your brights off and then hit a switch to turn your driving lights off. These bumper mounted lights are going to be mounted too high to run all the time with oncoming traffic, you will be flashed by oncoming high beams all night long. That's just the best way I can see it. Requires the use of one extra relay if you compare it to the traditional way to do it.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/4694/drivinglightsow5.jpg

I was thinking of a setup where I had no extra switch...just when I hit the high beams, the driving lights come on too. Possible?

Yes that is possible too. That is the cheaper and slightly easier way as no wires will have to cross the firewall. The only downside is if you ever needed them seperately you couldn't be able to control them. A condition such as heavy rain, snow, or fog where the lights may be of use but cannot be used because of the high beams causing too much glare. Its all a personal choice I guess. Depends if you purchase driving, lights, fog lights, or "spot" lights too. Here is the diagram anyway...
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/4641/drivinglights2sr1.jpg

Hi Ryan,

Thanks for the diagram! Very helpful. That might be the way to go, I see the light!;)

You could also get a 3-position switch. In the center position the lights will be off no matter what the condition of the vehicle lighting. If you flip it down the lights will come on and stay on as long as the switch stays in that position. If you flip the switch up, the lights will come on with the vehicles high beams. I would recommend doing it this way so when you are on the highway you don't have to turn your brights off and then hit a switch to turn your driving lights off. These bumper mounted lights are going to be mounted too high to run all the time with oncoming traffic, you will be flashed by oncoming high beams all night long. That's just the best way I can see it. Requires the use of one extra relay if you compare it to the traditional way to do it.

I like that idea, the relays are cheap enough, and it's not bothered by the limitations of the Mopar/DRL issue. I wouldn't want to give up my DRL for the extra lights.

i got hella 500s driving lights and i was told i could not mount them becuase it would crease the bumper. how do you get around this...apparently the metal part of the bumber is too far away from the plastic part and it will cause creasing in my new patriots bumper. I still have the lights but looking for someone to install them.

i got hella 500s driving lights and i was told i could not mount them becuase it would crease the bumper. how do you get around this...apparently the metal part of the bumber is too far away from the plastic part and it will cause creasing in my new patriots bumper. I still have the lights but looking for someone to install them.

Shouldn't be a big issue for you to do it yourself, get some longer bolts for the lights and add some spacers (washers, short length of pipe, whatever will work) between the metal and plastic. Now this also falls under the 'easier said than done' principle but shouldn't take longer than an afternoon.

For other's without experience wiring relay's http://www.the12volt.com is a great resource.

On a five pin relay (available from your local auto parts store Napa Part #AR272, that # can be cross referenced at another store) the wiring goes like this
pin 30 - 12v constant power
pin 86 - 12v trigger (ie. tap from high beam wire or switch)
pin 85 - chassis ground
pin 87 - power to accessory (when pin 86 is powered, ie switch in on position)
pin 87a - usually not used but can have power to another accessory (when pin 86 is NOT powered, ie switch in off position)

Another note, if you're tapping into a factory wire DO NOT use the blue scotch lock connectors even though they are quick and easy, they allow wires to corrode easily and will cause alot of headaches later. If you don't know what a scotch lock is here's a pic
http://www.imperialinc.com/img/71259.jpg

The best way (I've found) to tap a wire is to strip off the casing in one area, intertwine the wires, solder, heat shrink, and cover the whole connection with liquid electrical tape.

The best way (I've found) to tap a wire is to strip off the casing in one area, intertwine the wires, solder, heat shrink, and cover the whole connection with liquid electrical tape.

Awesome post and excellent advice
Although sometimes a little tough when you are elbow deep behind the dash reaching wires that have no more play. I guess that one falls under the 'easier said than done' principal sometimes also.

:)


Jim

One question: Why would you want to blind other drivers with your high beams on AND your driving/fog lights on at the same time? It's bad enough (with some vehicles) when low beams and fog lights are used.

One question: Why would you want to blind other drivers with your high beams on AND your driving/fog lights on at the same time? It's bad enough (with some vehicles) when low beams and fog lights are used.

Just wondering tho, aren't driving lights, when properly aimed, focused on the road ahead below grill level?