thanks to impulseballer, who with 8 posts on jeepforum hopefully doesn't mind me spreading his info!

well i posted this over at the other compass forums so I decided to share and bring it here too.

Ok first off I want to say in no way do I dislike the compass for being a ride you can customize etc. One thing I do think rediculous is the fact that people are paying over $200 etc. for a simple short ram intake. These cars are not high horsepower cars nor are they tuners like the CRT4 etc. With that said. I believe you guys should put your money elsewhere like tints etc. The only thing restrictive at all in the compass intake system is the airbox itself. The stock intake piping to the airbox is almost 2.5" which is plenty and the bends are done the correct way so no restriction is caused. If you follow my how to, you will be able to install a short ram intake that will perform exactly the same as the K&N or secret weapon intakes. I love to help people out and save people money so I hope you enjoy. Oh also it didn't throw any CEL's and I haven't checked fuel economy yet but I'm sure it's going to increase. With that being said here we go:

Tools Needed

1/4" & 5/16" sockets
scissors
cuttoff wheel or dremel
die grinder with sanding pad (optional)

Other items needed

3" Intake Filter (ebay is the absolute cheapest. got mine for $13 shipped)
Universal Air Breather (ebay again..paid $10 shipped.)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0795.jpg
2.5" OD to 3" OD pipe (mineke made it for me got it for $10-should be aobut 5-6" long )
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0804.jpg
1/2" barb -1/2"barb coupler
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0814.jpg
extra pipe clamp(homedepot)
5 minute epoxy (homedepot)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0812.jpg

part 2

Instructions

First off you want to remove that air scoop thing near the hood latch. Just twist those two tabs and then pull the unit out.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0796.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0797.jpg

Next you want to pull off the engine cover. It just yanks right off. It's attached nicely with little ball and socket like pieces.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0798.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0799.jpg



Next you want to pull off the black hose that goes from the valve cover to the stock airbox. Disconnect it at the airbox only for now.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0801.jpg

Now use that 5/16" socket to loose the clamp from the intake pipe to the airbox. The detach the pipe.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0802.jpg


Pull up on the airbox and take it out. Same type of connectors as the engine cover are used for the air box.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0803.jpg

First we'll deal with the breather filter. First thing I would put the 1/2" barb into the breather filter but don't tighten the clamp. Take the engine cover and just place it on top of the connectors but don't snap it down. Hold the breather fiter etc. over the tube and make a mental line where you want to cut the tube to insert the other part of the barb. I wanted the breather to stock out a certain distance as it compliments the large intake filter colors (both silver).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0815.jpg
Next cut the tubing where you made that mental line and insert the barb into the hose and clamp.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0813.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0816.jpg
Done with that part of the install.




Ok now the more involve part. Attach the 2.5" to 3" pipe to the intake filter (obviously the 3" part is what the filter is clamped to). http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0804.jpg
Put this aside. Now take your filter out of the airbox. Take a cutoff wheel etc. and cut off the piece that the stock intake pipe was connected to originally.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0805.jpg


Next, take the pipe with the air filter on it and put it on top of the hole that is cutout. Take a sharpie and trace around the 2.5" part to make a circle to cut or sand out. I used my dremel with the rotary sander on it.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0806.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0807.jpg

Now draw a line around the half of the intake box that doesn't have the hole near the bottom but still keeping the bottom portion of the airbox. THis is because we want to utilize the stock mounting parts etc.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0808.jpg

Now seperate the airbox and cut along that line with the cuttoff wheel.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0809.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0810.jpg

Next cut out a section on the side with the hole like I did.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0811.jpg

After I did the above i put the sections back together where they interlocked on the bottom and used the 5 minute epoxy to permanently attach the two pieces at the joint. It should look like a 90 degree angle. We are doing all this not only for making mounting eaasy but it acts just like the K&N heat shield from the heat coming off the exhaust header.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0817.jpg





For added support I added a few screws at the end of the joints. Just to make sure it will hold up through everything.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0818.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0819-1.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0820.jpg

Now you're almost done!!!! Just put back the modified "heat shield" aka hacked up airbox into the mounting connectors. Now slide the air intake filter with pipe assembly through the hole that you made and into the stock airpipe. Tighten the clamp, reinstall the engine cover and take a step back and admire the awesomeness of the install you just did yourseld!!! And you saved a **** load of cash. Woohoo!!! If you've found this how to helpful as I'm sure you have, feel free to send a donation to my paypal. flyfrey2004@yahoo.com ENJOY


http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0822.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk166/impulseballer/DSCF0823.jpg

Check out how tiny the K&N intake filter is compared to the one i put in.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/668/intakefb4kf3.jpg

thank i might try that but mount the breather tube like the k&n setup

I highly doubt there are any improvements made with this setup. The stock airbox allows cooler outside air in through the airscoop that has been removed. Now all air into the intake is coming from under the hood. There will still be outside air coming in the scoop part that remains, but it is not directly fed into the filter box like the stock setup. Most modern engines do not have stock restrictive air intakes anymore. That's why you see very little if any HP increase from after market intakes. Cooler air is far more important on a modern engine.

If someone had a way to monitor air intake temp on a stock airbox vs the a modded intake on the same car in the same conditions I'd bet money the temp would be higher that the stock box. On my Subaru I had the ability to monitor AIT and the only improvement over the stock airbox was a true cold air intake that sourced the air from outside the engine compartment.

I highly doubt there are any improvements made with this setup. The stock airbox allows cooler outside air in through the airscoop that has been removed. Now all air into the intake is coming from under the hood. There will still be outside air coming in the scoop part that remains, but it is not directly fed into the filter box like the stock setup. Most modern engines do not have stock restrictive air intakes anymore. That's why you see very little if any HP increase from after market intakes. Cooler air is far more important on a modern engine.

If someone had a way to monitor air intake temp on a stock airbox vs the a modded intake on the same car in the same conditions I'd bet money the temp would be higher that the stock box. On my Subaru I had the ability to monitor AIT and the only improvement over the stock airbox was a true cold air intake that sourced the air from outside the engine compartment.

well said. Looks like a good write up for maybe under 40 but when you dont have tools the cost and time go way up. I think the KN is a good product but why mess with the economical patriot. A KN panel filter should do the trick. There is no horsepower to be made here.

Any one have any comments on the panel filter vs kit?

Just wanted to add that although I splurged for K&N filters at my local parts store, I was able to pick up a standard 2.5"OD to 3"ID exhaust reducer at Canadian Tire for $6CAD. The filter flange will stretch the extra 1/16" to fit. Also, the K&N breather filter should fit right inside the breather hose.

Here is the issue with the supposed Cold Air Intake kit from K&N...the filter is located at the back of the engine compartment. It would only be a true cold air kit if it possibly relocated the filter and brought air in from outside of the compartment.

Good job with the install.
I agree with CallenB though. It needs to be relocated to the front of the bay (but given thats gonna take some time & effort). Its current location will cop hot engine heat/air & battery fumes. Unless it could be more fully enclosed....?

That would totaly void my warranty.

This is a great site, not only for Patriot information, but our members offer a variety of other information as well. If you are interested in becomming a "Site Supporter" click the following link it doesn't cost very much only $15 or $20 and helps keep the site going. http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2872

Our Site Admin guys are working on updating the site with new software and every little bit helps.

Very nice! I like it! haha, Come over and help me out!

Just as a warning to people using the steel mesh filter they have a bad habit of rusting so i would spend a little money and get a K&N or a little less and get a spectre here is a pix from a friend that used that filter on his car.

http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-airfilter-shootout/IMG_9429.sized.jpg

I believe slater means 'rusting'... Can't go wrong with a K&N.

A follow up to this mod: I did notice a slight increase in MPG after the install; I expect even better results come winter.

Also, as others have mentioned, the engine is much louder after install.

The best benefit for me has been the engine braking. With the stock airbox, there was a distinct jerk when engine braking kicked in, and the deceleration was quite severe. With the increased airflow this offers, the engine braking is much more 'normal.'

I believe slater means 'rusting'... Can't go wrong with a K&N.

A follow up to this mod: I did notice a slight increase in MPG after the install; I expect even better results come winter.

Also, as others have mentioned, the engine is much louder after install.

The best benefit for me has been the engine braking. With the stock airbox, there was a distinct jerk when engine braking kicked in, and the deceleration was quite severe. With the increased airflow this offers, the engine braking is much more 'normal.'

The big reason i went with an intake was when i saw how small the opening was for air. the only air that the motor gets is thru that small snorkle at the front. Yes it is fed with outside air so it should be cooler but with the volume of air that you can get with any intake system either DIY or one of the big compaies the improvement is going to be huge. Yes Warm air is not as good as Cool or Cold air but just the amount of warm air my jeep is getting now is so much better than the small amout of cool air it was getting before.

you do realize that the intake takes air from the crankcase why there's a hose from there, a breather is doing nothing and the hose should be hooked up to the intake system. Its usually were the pcv valve is and its not going to let air in breather on or not. Its designed so when the engine is sucking air the pcv opens releasing into the intake and getting burned off, and at idle/off, its closed. Common mistake for people making intakes there own intakes.

you do realize that the intake takes air from the crankcase why there's a hose from there, a breather is doing nothing and the hose should be hooked up to the intake system. Its usually were the pcv valve is and its not going to let air in breather on or not. Its designed so when the engine is sucking air the pcv opens releasing into the intake and getting burned off, and at idle/off, its closed. Common mistake for people making intakes there own intakes.

I thought the same thing too; see http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43663

I don't know, good idea, but for the same amount of money I am just going to look into getting a K&N replacement filter instead of possibly messing up my warranty :-)

I don't know, good idea, but for the same amount of money I am just going to look into getting a K&N replacement filter instead of possibly messing up my warranty :-)

And as others have already said, you'll probably see the same benefit from using a drop-in K&N as one might see when converting to one of these supposed "cold air intakes"...which are not really very cold after all, but they are louder. And louder is faster, right? :D
I would think that the Patriot/Compass/Caliber "world engine" would have a decent air intake system from the factory.

My current daily driver is an '01 Dodge Neon ES. The OEM air intake on that car is so efficient that the aftermarket rigs were hardly offering even 1hp increase (dyno proven) for the cost of $200ish.
Similar benefits come from the simple K&N/Mopar drop-in, which is what I installed.
The 1st generation Neons were a different story; horrible OEM design and Iceman and others were seeing a genuine 5 to 6 hp increase from installing one of their genuine CAI systems.

And as others have already said, you'll probably see the same benefit from using a drop-in K&N as one might see when converting to one of these supposed "cold air intakes"...which are not really very cold after all, but they are louder. And louder is faster, right? :D
I would think that the Patriot/Compass/Caliber "world engine" would have a decent air intake system from the factory.

My current daily driver is an '01 Dodge Neon ES. The OEM air intake on that car is so efficient that the aftermarket rigs were hardly offering even 1hp increase (dyno proven) for the cost of $200ish.
Similar benefits come from the simple K&N/Mopar drop-in, which is what I installed.
The 1st generation Neons were a different story; horrible OEM design and Iceman and others were seeing a genuine 5 to 6 hp increase from installing one of their genuine CAI systems.

Ya i had an Iceman intake on my 98 DOHC Sport. That was a good intake and it was a True cold air intake as it went down behind the front bumper to give the coolest air possible.

Ya i had an Iceman intake on my 98 DOHC Sport. That was a good intake and it was a True cold air intake as it went down behind the front bumper to give the coolest air possible.

Yup, just had to beware of large puddles of water.
A kid I know did that very thing in his 1st gen Sport w/ Iceman and he water-locked the engine. :(

I just took my k&n cold air intake out, and put the box back in with a k&n drop in. The cold air intake improve my mpg by 2-3 but the noise wasn't worth it.

K&N's own site says that the CAI only increases HP about 7.8 horses.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/hp_search.aspx

While I like the throaty sound you get with increased airflow, not sure 7.8 horses and 1-3mpg is worth doing the mod? Not sure though - obviously it's a personal preference. I rigged up a CAI with a kit from AutoZone right after I got my Riot. Cost like $30, took about 30 minutes. Did it all 100% correctly, and my city MPG sank from 20 to 13. Plus my wife complained about how much louder the engine was and asked if I broke our new Jeep haha. Obviously I took it right back off and went back to stock. A couple friends on here have mentioned drilling a hole or few in the factory assembly to increase air volume. Might be a good alternative for some? Personally, I'm just doing a K&N filter - one time expense of $40, lifelong warranty, clean it every 50K - 100K miles...sounds good to me even if there are little/no performance increases! But...a few friends on here have said slight increase in mpg w/this filter, so it'd be good if that is the case.

Nice write up & pics -----But as CAI 's do absoloutly nothing --its all a bit of an excersise futility!!!

Nice write up & pics -----But as CAI 's do absoloutly nothing --its all a bit of an excersise futility!!!

CAI's are actually good. I have one on my Rubicon.
The example here is not a CAI and I have yet to see a CAI for sale for a Patriot or just about any other vehicle. Lots of folks like K&N sell what they call a CAI. I have no idea what they mean but CAI to me means Cold Air Intake. What you see here and from K&N is not a cold air intake. They could be called WAI for warm air intake or even HAI for hot air intake. but not a cold air intake. Perhaps to get past the lawyers they can say it's a cold air intake when you start up in the morning. But that engine bay warms up pretty quick. The only way you can call it a CAI is if you are actually pulling in cooler outside air. Even if it's 115 outside it will be cooler than under the hood.

There are issues about oil contamination of the MAF from K&N filters and similar types, at best you have to clean your MAF at worst replace it.....costly!

you do realize that the intake takes air from the crankcase why there's a hose from there, a breather is doing nothing and the hose should be hooked up to the intake system. Its usually were the pcv valve is and its not going to let air in breather on or not. Its designed so when the engine is sucking air the pcv opens releasing into the intake and getting burned off, and at idle/off, its closed. Common mistake for people making intakes there own intakes.

I know it's been a year since this guys post, but I just read it and couldnt resist a reply.
Crzycat states that the intake hose for the PCV is hooked to the CRANKCASE, so if you don't hook it up to the BREATHER it wont get airflow.
Crzycat seems to have forgotten that there are 4 large pistons above the crankcase cycling at a high rate and displacing just as much air BELOW them as above them. It doesnt flow as much air as the air filter because as one goes up, another goes down. The problem with putting one of those little breather filters on there is if it gets dirty, wet, or (shudder) falls off, the contamination goes directly (via the PCV valve) into the oil pan. Water and dirt are universally accepted as "bad things" in your oil. THATS why the factory routes it to the clean side of the intake system. Not for the vacumn in the intake tract. The PCV is designed to let air flow mostly out, not in, but it's the force of the air from the rotating mass that unseats the valve, not the differential pressure from air flowing past the end of the hose. Burning off blow-by from the piston rings is a side benefit for the engineers and keeps the EPA happy. I believe they call that an "elegant" solution.

Will this mod work with the 2.0s?

Cheap ones will always rust or they have the paper filter material. For about forty bucks more you can get one I the k and n elements and it lasts forever or they will warranty it

Couple thoughts on this thread:

An even cheaper mod (Free) that would be almost as effective would be just to keep your stock panel filter and then just skeletonize the bottom side of the airbox. I've done this on cars in the past that I didn't feel like buying a intake for with good results.

For those with concerns about the oil from a K&N filter ruining your sensors, it isn't an issue. If you're really worried about it you can buy MAF sensor cleaner for a few bucks from most parts stores. I clean off the MAF sensor on my GTO everytime I have my intake tract apart just to keep fueling consistant at high RPMs.