How many miles does the average Patriot last? - Page 3 - Jeep Patriot Forums
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Sealman1 View Post
You have an FD1
Is that a question or a statement? Is it directed to me? No, mine is FWD.
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 12:20 PM
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I already gave a serious reply in this thread so I feel entitled to just point out that the title of the thread should be "how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop"
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 06:24 PM
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So far, Mine lasted me 7,000 miles. Bought it at 14K and now its at 21K with a transmission that is toast and needs replacing.
I have a 2014 latitude FWD 2.4L 5MT. Never used offroad. And she still decided to crap out on me. The 5MT trannys on these things suck a**.
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ishack980 View Post
So far, Mine lasted me 7,000 miles. Bought it at 14K and now its at 21K with a transmission that is toast and needs replacing.
I have a 2014 latitude FWD 2.4L 5MT. Never used offroad. And she still decided to crap out on me. The 5MT trannys on these things suck a**.
You're not the only one to complain about the 5-spd manual. Strange. Usually manuals will last forever, though any clutch will eventually wear out.

Our 2014 5-spd has about 60,000 on it with no problems.

Manual problems before 100,000 are premature and 21,000 is vastly premature. FCA should stand behind it. Have you PMed JeepCares on this website? They might be able to help.
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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 02:38 AM
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168000 and going... 08 5spd 4x4. Babied it forever doe. Especially after the crash.

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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignatz View Post
Considerations when buying new:
  • Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a new one.
  • If you treat a brand new vehicle right it can last almost forever. There are no worries how it was treated or what happened to it in the past.
  • There are unadvertised (secret) dealer incentives you may not know about and when you start actually negotiating the dealer will bring those into the discussion. It usually follows, "Let me talk to my boss about your offer." They may not say, "Yup there's a rebate we can offer you," usually its more like, "Yeah, if you'll sign right now and don't shop around, we can do it."
  • Interest rates are lower for a new car.
  • If you're a regular customer at an established dealer they'll take care of you in other ways, like loaner cars even after its off warranty, etc.
  • They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.

Considerations of buying used from a business -- dealer or lot:
  • Its a one-stop operation. You drive in your old one and drive out with a newer one.
  • A used vehicle has already absorbed that first-year depreciation.
  • They can usually provide financing and they will have a list of all the area banks and their rates.
  • A business will usually offer some sort of warranty, and if a really obvious problem shows up in the warranty period, they will probably take care of it. (However, if you're just feeling insecure, hear a funny noise, or can't explain or demonstrate the problem, they will ignore you.) They buy them at auction or trade-in and have no better idea than you do if its going to be reliable or not.
  • They want repeat customers and intend to treat you right.
  • Beware the place that says, "We finance anybody" Somebody is paying for that promise and its not the bad credit risks, its the people that actually pay for the car. (Actually sometimes the bad credit risks do pay, by putting 50% down (probably what the business has into the car). Keep that thought in mind when negotiating your price.

Considerations of buying from an individual -- private sale:
  • Its probably a one-owner vehicle and the person has done their best to take care of it (but of course they aren't going to warranty it). Caveat emptor.
  • They have no overhead (building, staff, mechanics, etc) so they can sell for less than a business.
  • The seller probably has no intention of cheating you. If s/he knows the car is a problem they will trade it in or sell it to a business that advertises "We buy cars for cash!"
  • Only down side is that you have to sell your old one -- if its a good one, you too can sell it privately for a better dollar than trading it in. However, if its giving you trouble, you probably better not sell it privately or if you do expect a knuckle sandwich. If you trade or sell to a dealer it may be wholesaled a couple times before anyone finds out what the problem is. Hopefully a business that offers warranties.

Did I miss anything?
You missed my scenario which is the same as what @griff mentioned earlier. Private seller, selling a rebuilt salvage title vehicle. High risk/High Reward purchase. Private seller purchased vehicle at insurance auction like this.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-car...triot-19865358

Seller repaired the vehicle, and is looking to flip it after repairs.

For anyone purchasing any used vehicle, I would highly recommend purchasing a Bluedriver OBD2 scanner. This scanner will read codes that most scanners won't including ABS, Airbag, and those that won't turn on any dash lights to make you aware of any currently existing problems prior to making your purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On my purchase the Bluedriver scanner made me aware of the following codes while showing no dash lights were illuminated.
P0295- "Cylinder 12 Injector 'A' Circuit High. Likely cause was said to be a partially clogged fuel injector. I took it into the shop, had them perform a full fuel injector cleaning flush, and code is now gone.

B1661- "Front Fog Lamp Control Circuit Open". This directed me to inspect the fog lights, and sure enough the fog lights weren't working. I inspected further and found the fog light wiring harness was not present. Likely damaged and not replaced when vehicle was in the accident. Not a purchase show stopper for me, I'll replace the fog light harness.

In regards to the OP's original question. When I was shopping for a used Patriot, I've seen many 2007 and 2008's with over 160K miles on them. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get 200K+ miles on more recent vehicles if maintained.

Last edited by rednroll; 04-14-2017 at 07:40 PM.
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 06:45 PM
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My jeep have gone now abowe 127.000 miles and still running good.
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 02:15 PM
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I have 98,000 miles on my 2009 Jeep, things I've replaced so far is Rack and pinion And upper ball joints at 70,000 miles. Several speed sensors and the driveshaft "4 x 4" the undercarriage looks pretty good but the rear suspension is really really rusty! I just came on the website to see how to start replacing my own speed sensors since they cost $125 co-pay at the dealership. Next I have to buy a new gasket for the sunroof it's leaking more so than usual and you got to blow out the drain lines with a compressor regularly.

"I bought the extended warranty for $2000 best investment I could've made it already paid for itself"
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:06 PM
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i have the opposite problem...and still dont know what to do.

i bought a sport 2wd with few accessories in 2008....itching to upgrade to a more fulfilling vehicle....however, i only have 42k miles on it and its paid off.....really am lost as to what to do...lol
wonder how much i could sell it for with such low mileage

Last edited by 2008patriot; 04-21-2017 at 01:10 PM.
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