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Replacing headlight bulbs

41K views 31 replies 23 participants last post by  kojack 
#1 ·
I have a burnt out headlight (just the low beam) and I bought the replacement bulbs but after about 10 minutes of trying I still can't manage to get the old one out of there :doh: What am I missing? Any tips, tricks, ideas?
 
#3 ·
I had the same problem as you a couple of months ago... Tried for an hour or so... Had to go to the dealer to see how to do it... Man! I felt dumb...

Anyway, there's some kind of a slider that you have to move AND (that's the part I was missing) a small button you have to push (near the bottom of the socket) when pulling the light off. Easy enough when you know what to do!
 
#4 ·
There are two different kinds of connectors. One that you are, I think, supposed to just pull off (just a guess - mine has always been way too stiff to do that) and the one sandman talks about. The mechanism that holds the bulb in place might also vary - I have a latch that folds over the back of the bulb, not something with a button.

The way I change my bulbs: first I pull the rubber cap back; then I release the latch that holds the bulb in place and fold it back; pull the bulb out still connected, and remove it from the connector using both hands (told you, that thing is pretty stiff). Place the rubber cap on the new bulb, pull it back and assemble in reverse order. The part that holds the bulb in place can be a little fiddly and annoying at times, especially when it is really cold, but that may just be because I'm left-handed (at least the left bulb is kind of difficult to get out using ones left hand, and my right is kind of clumsy especially when frozen solid).

Not a clue if that's the right way to do it, as the manual claims the mechanism should be something totally different.
 
#24 ·
replacing headlight bulb in 2007 Patriot



When I release the latch and have the connector with the bulb attached out of the socket, I put a screwdriver through a small opening and pulled... The connector separated itself from the rest but only a little... 1) should I just continue to pull? 2) the connector seems different, only three pins on the outside of it. What am I doing wrong?

Sorry for bringing back an old issue
 
#5 ·
Mine were like sandman's description - easiest bulbs I have ever replaced. I burn mine all the time so I have replaced several. Upgraded both last month to higher intensity and was surprised how much of a difference it made. Got them on sale so two were not much more than a single standard replacement.
 
#6 ·
I burn mine all the time so I have replaced several.
Why are you going through them so often? Both mine lasted about 36k miles. You aren't touching the glass of the lamp when you change them, are you?

The only time I've ever bought expensive lamps was my old Subaru. Won't do that again! I personally find the standard Sylvania's (at $15 each) to be quite sufficient. My Raider's sealed beam lamps are terrible!
 
#7 ·
anyone know the life of the silverstars? I heard they are brighter but don't last as long as standard lights...
 
#8 ·
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness connector from the connector receptacle integral to the headlamp bulb base (3) on the back of the headlamp unit housing (1).
3. Using the tabs on each side of the connector receptacle, firmly grasp the bulb base and rotate it counterclockwise about 30 degrees to unlock it.
4. Pull the bulb and base straight out from the keyed opening in the headlamp reflector (2).

I did not copy the picture from the service manual but you get the idea.
 
#11 ·
Broccoli - patience my friend, my previous vehicles (Big 3) never had that type of stuff in an owners manual, i have always had to buy a Chilton's or similar. Even if you don't do the detailed work yourself (not the lightbulb thing) it is nice to understand what is going on.

For example, getting to the fog lamps is a total pain in the ___ on the Pat.
 
#12 ·
The owners manual of the Patriot is far, far more informative than what a lot of new vehicles have. It could use major editing by someone who really understands the differences between different models of the vehicle (including export models!), but the amount of information exceeds most owners manuals today.
 
#13 ·
I have the PDF version of the owner's manual and there are step by step instructions with pictures from page 398 to 400.

1. Raise the hood and locate the connector behind the headlight :doh:
2. Reach into engine compartment and pull red lock out at connector.

3. Remove the green connector from the back of the bulb by pulling straight back.

4. Twist the bulb to the left.

5. Pull bulb outward from assembly. :D
 
#22 ·
Sweet deal!
 
#14 ·
Krakrak - good catch, that is why we should always go back to the owners manual to remind ourselves of a few things.
 
#17 ·
Replaced head light myself - no problem

I've never done anything under my car's hood aside from replacing washer fluid and jumping the battery, but decided to save money and try to change the bulb myself. Read a few helpful tips on this forum first, and was able to do it. The only trouble I had was pulling the connector out of the bulb and twisting the bulb out of its setting, but once I put some pliers to work it was really easy.
 
#18 ·
Changing a bulb

I would just like to say thanks so much. I have driven cars for more years than I care to imagine and have never had such a major headache changing a bulb in my life than I have had with the Jeep. The person who said to use WD40 is just a hero in my eyes. I never normally join forums but I was so grateful for the advice on this site I did so just to say thanks for all the good advice and photos that are posted to help people like me. THANKS
 
#19 ·
70,000 rural miles and still all original bulbs.

Hearing some of these problems reminds me of our 2001 VW New Beetle--not the 2010. I went thru 4 headlamps the first three months of ownership--and needed to go home to the mothership to be replaced. I finally cornered a tech and he showed me the trick of how to slide out the lamp ass'y beind the wheel well. After that no more bulbs burned out??!!

But when I complained about the bulb quality to the service manager, she had the gall to state, "well Mr. Allwardt, you don't really understand the service business, do you?" I asked how so and her response was that since the VW had DRLs, they're going to not last as long as they're always on. I then displayed my credentials from both IBM and those as an industrial engineer and stated that I'd probably resolved more problems that she and her whole staff could ever imaging--and I did so without offending the customer. I then pointed to my '98 Chev S-10, telling her it had over 50,00 hard miles with all the original bulbs--and by the way--it too, has DRLs. "Your move!" I said.

VW of America issued me a 50,000 mile warranty on bulbs after this and I never needed it.
 
#27 ·
That is why you spend the $25 and get an HID kit like I did for my Patriot. Easy to install (about the same time as bulbs), 10 times brighter, better and more usable light (color), cheaper, and they will most likely outlive your Patriot.
 
#23 ·
All original bulbs, really! Well except for the right front signal housing that filled up with water, but that one kept burning even while under water. Really!
I do have condensation marks on the inside of the headlamp glass, but doesn't seem to make any difference.
Probably would not hurt to get some freshies though as bulbs will lose some lumens over time.
 
#28 ·
watch HID in the pat, 1, they flicker, 2. the pat's headlight reflectors are poor for the HID system. If you get in fog or snow you will blind yourself. I had them in my 2010 and driving in fog and snow was a horrible experience. I took them out again. Just use the phillips xtra power and supplement with aux. lighting. That is the safest route to go.
 
#29 ·
Mine have never flickered once, I'll invite you for a beer if you want to see. We drove the entire Wisconsin winter snowy winter this past year with no issues with snow of fog and never blinded anyone. My many experiences with silverstars is they were marginally better and brighter than OEM but at a very high cost and an extremely low life.
 
#31 ·
I am speaking from my OWN experience with my patriot. I did have light kick up issues. Maybe yours came with the canbus adapters already. I drive ALOT in the night, to the tune of 50K a year. So, having great snow/fog/bad weather lighting is a must!
 
#30 ·
I run SilverStar ZXEs in my Pat. They are AWESOME. they are brighter than the OE bulbs I replaced, and I've had them installed 20 months and 28k miles no problem. Asshats bright me all the time, but they did that in my Sebring too. Except it had quad beams and I could really blind them back..
 
#32 ·
You should see how fast they drop their high beams when I'm in my wrangler, 55w HID in a hella 500 housing rips their retinas from their eyes. ha ha.
 
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