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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Headlight Ideas

I just bought a spare set of headlights for my 2011 Patriot and want to replace my current HID setup, and was thinking to maybe fit a 3" HID projector (I have 6 inch clearance inside the headlight assembly) as the main headlight, and an LED as a DRL: has anyone done this, or have any ideas?

Currently I have a 2.5 projector with 4500k, but after nearly 3 years the light is not as bright, even after upgrading the bulbs.

I was thinking to add an LED bulb into the headlight housing as a DRL and rewire the high beam through a DPDT relay (getting rid of the high beam HIDs coming on when I put the car in drive and have the LEDs come on instead).

Has anyone fitted a 3" projector into the Jeep Patriots headlight?
What projector and bulb give the most amount of light?
What LED setup would I need?
Has anyone just removed the grill and not the whole bumper to get at the lights?

Any ideas or pics would be great.
Thanks.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 01:29 AM
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quite a few people have had projector retrofits in their Patriot headlights. One thing I suggest to you is do NOT use the Ebay crap projectors. Only use Morimoto projectors. I have had both and see the difference. with ebay projectors I was afraid to drive on the highway in my Jeep. I run morimoto projectors on my G35 and they are like runway lights in comparison, even with the same HID's.
It's costly, but the Patriot headlight housing makes it the easiest retrofit you will ever do.
I suggest buying the Morimoto Mini D2s projectors. I run the squares, but the rounds would look better in your headlight. For DRL I suggest buying the Morimoto XSB halo's. Super duper bright whites, and they switch to amber for turn signal if you wire it that way.

As for HID bulbs, It's a toss up. You can spend $150 on a Morimoto setup and they will probably be bright, but I have found the OEM 35watt bulb/ballasts from my G35 are twice as bright as the 55watt Kensun HID's that I bought. OEM applications usually are brighter, but they wont come in the blue colors people want. in reality, 4300-5000k is the best color temp for output.

when doing the install, make sure you can align the cut-off lines of the projectors. I suggest installing everything with the headlight lens off and checking it first. that way you can rotate the projector if it needs to. Running projectors with crooked cutoff lines will irritate you to hell.

In order to maintain brights when you install your projectors you simply need a couple diodes and a soldering iron. At Radio Shack (or online) you can buy these rectifier diodes (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717598981) that limit the flow of electricity to only one direction. Install this between the high beam and low beam wire, so when you switch to high it routes power to the low beam wire while maintaining power in the high beam, but not the other way around (low beam wire needs to always stay on so your hid's stay on, high beam wire is simply for high beam flap only). Your projector will have a high beam flap (wired to brights wire) that will open and get rid of the cutoff line. Your HID's are single beam only, so this is how you achieve "brights"


Last edited by moparnumber1; 04-08-2016 at 01:32 AM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 01:35 AM
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Projectors- https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...l#.Vwc0qPkrK00

You can select shroud type and halo's directly on that page.
If you wanna go super fancy check out the new XC halo's. full color spectrum and remote controlled.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply
I currently have H1s and the connector is H13, so would have to change that to a D2S?

Are these the components you are suggesting?

Projectors
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...l#.Vwc4bCuLUto


Bulbs
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...l#.Vwc36yuLUtp

Halos
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/le...l#.Vwc3bSuLUto

Thanks.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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What do you think of the mini H1s?
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...l#.Vwc7wyuLUto

Do you have a link to the OEM 35watt bulb/ballasts for your G35 you mentioned.

Last edited by paulmackie; 04-08-2016 at 02:09 AM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 02:42 AM
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all the things you linked are good. The mini H1 is only a 2.5" projector, and I preferred the output/cutoff of the D2S better. If you already have H1 bulbs you might as well go with the mini H1 to save money.

As for changing to D2S, it wont matter. All aftermarket HID ballasts use H1 connectors and AMP connections at the bulbs. You can actually just keep your ballasts and buy D2S bulbs with AMP connectors. Brand makes a big difference in HID performance. Most brands out there are re-labeled Chinese garbage, even some of the expensive ones.

As far as G35 ballasts, just scour ebay for used parts. You will need the power connector and D2S wire. Usually the ballasts alone goes for around $90. They mount on the side of the housing, so you'd have to mock up a way to mount them on the Jeep. I would try the Morimoto hid's first since the retrofit community really likes them.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 02:45 AM
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I totally forgot export models have that stupid drl crap. That will make things tricky to wire.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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I really like the TRS Panamera switchback LED shroud and H7 projector, but at around $200US and Canadian exchange rate, a bit pricey for me at this time.

I have an old HID kit lying around, the light output is way brighter than the morimotos I currently have fitted, so will give those a try.

I am going to try this Switchback LED Tube Strip Light Headlight DRL Daytime Running Light.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZOUVR7G/...350_TE_3p_dp_1

The reason is it is flexible, and I was thinking to place it as a full circle inside the headlight, and wire the white switchback is as a DRL through a DPDT relay and amber wire into my turn signals.

I split the headlights last weekend, 220 degrees for 10 minutes in the oven and the light lens came apart really easy,only took a few minutes to pull apart.

I removed the bulb and metal reflector piece and the projector fitted straight in the hole and tightened ok. will take a week or so for the LED switchback to arrive, but will post once it is all done.

I'm using butyl windscreen glue, so I can easily reverse anything I do.

If anyone has any other ideas let me know.
Thanks
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 12:04 PM
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It was my understanding the OEM headlights were held together with permaseal, not butyl which is a lot easier to seperate. These headlights came easily apart then?

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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My original retrofit of the OEM headlights was permaseal, which is way more difficult to separate the lens from the headlight.

I bought the spare headlights from https://partsavatar.ca/
and shipped from somewhere in British Columbia Canada.

After heating for 220 degrees for 10 minutes in the oven the lens just pulled off with slight leverage from a flat blade screwdriver.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 04:07 PM
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Ok, they're aftermarket. Makes sense now.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Has anyone fitted the 60cm Switchback LED Tube Strip Light as a DRL and indicator light?

It looks like the power draw is about 10 to 12w, so I am thinking to tap into each existing indicator wiring.

I'm thinking the existing circuit should handle the load with no hyperflash, as the existing bulb will still be used.

What do you think?

Last edited by paulmackie; 04-14-2016 at 03:39 AM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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DRL Switchback Tube

Got the switchback tube from Ebay and the white is pretty bright and will work as a DRL for me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x60cm-Tube-...dVWfSw&vxp=mtr

The yellow indicator is OK, but is at least half as bright; I will connect it up as an indicator light, but mainly the white is what I need.

The tube is 24 inches and is too long, but they say you can cut every three LED chips as a group, so will trim to fit as a full circle in my headlight. There are only 8 plastic clips to mount the tube, so not enough for two headlights.

Will also have to test putting the assembly in the oven and make sure it does not melt or get damaged when I put the lens back; once everything is setup.

Will be working on the lights this weekend.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Cut 6 chips off each LED tube strip and the lights worked and fitted just fine.

Will fit LED tube this weekend with 4 of the 8 clamps and see how it fits.

It's difficult to judge the light, but the white was bright in a daytime well sunlit room; not sure how bright the light will be on a sunny day on the road.

I will be wiring the LED strip so the DRL is not on when the low beams are on. When I tested the LED strip the white went off when the yellow came on, and a slight delay for the white to come back on.

Because of my DRLs being on my high beam I will have to wire this new DRL through a DPDT relay and a 12v relay as shown in the sketch above. This resolves me having to run my low beams all the time; as my HIDs go high beam when I put my car in drive.

FYI: The LED tube is a soft white rubber, half inch wide (looking straight on) by three eighths of an inch.
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Last edited by paulmackie; 04-21-2016 at 02:07 AM.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Attached is the circuit I will be using for the LED DRLs and Turn Signal strip tube, X DRL5 LED lights, and HID Angel Eyes.

This should resolve the HI Beam coming on as a DRL when I put the car in drive.

I am fitting the TRS Morimoto X DRL5s as an external backup LED light, just in case the internal headlight LED tube breaks down at some point. Not sure what the law allows, but it would be a simple case of disconnecting lights if needed.

This circuit uses a Double Pole Double Throw relay, and a Normally Open relay.

During the day:
When the car is started and put into drive, reduced voltage from the (here in Canada) high beam DRL operates the NO relay, which closes the contact and puts 12 volts on the DRL circuit.
The DPDT relay for the low beam is open circuit; low and high beam is not used.

At night:
When the low beam is turned on the DPDT relay is closed circuit, low beams come on and voltage can go to the high beam HID solenoid when needed.
The DRL circuit is disconnected and not used at night. I wired the Angel Eyes into the low beams to add a bit of color, but not sure what it will look like.

There are several ways to wire this setup, depending on what lights you want on and when.

Will not know how and where I will wire everything, until I pull the bumper and grill off.

It will be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to install the new lights and circuit, but will post once it is all complete.
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