quite a few people have had projector retrofits in their Patriot headlights. One thing I suggest to you is do NOT use the Ebay crap projectors. Only use Morimoto projectors. I have had both and see the difference. with ebay projectors I was afraid to drive on the highway in my Jeep. I run morimoto projectors on my G35 and they are like runway lights in comparison, even with the same HID's.
It's costly, but the Patriot headlight housing makes it the easiest retrofit you will ever do.
I suggest buying the Morimoto Mini D2s projectors. I run the squares, but the rounds would look better in your headlight. For DRL I suggest buying the Morimoto XSB halo's. Super duper bright whites, and they switch to amber for turn signal if you wire it that way.
As for HID bulbs, It's a toss up. You can spend $150 on a Morimoto setup and they will probably be bright, but I have found the OEM 35watt bulb/ballasts from my G35 are twice as bright as the 55watt Kensun HID's that I bought. OEM applications usually are brighter, but they wont come in the blue colors people want. in reality, 4300-5000k is the best color temp for output.
when doing the install, make sure you can align the cut-off lines of the projectors. I suggest installing everything with the headlight lens off and checking it first. that way you can rotate the projector if it needs to. Running projectors with crooked cutoff lines will irritate you to hell.
In order to maintain brights when you install your projectors you simply need a couple diodes and a soldering iron. At Radio Shack (or online) you can buy these rectifier diodes (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717598981
) that limit the flow of electricity to only one direction. Install this between the high beam and low beam wire, so when you switch to high it routes power to the low beam wire while maintaining power in the high beam, but not the other way around (low beam wire needs to always stay on so your hid's stay on, high beam wire is simply for high beam flap only). Your projector will have a high beam flap (wired to brights wire) that will open and get rid of the cutoff line. Your HID's are single beam only, so this is how you achieve "brights"