Alternator and OAD Pulleys - Jeep Patriot Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Alternator and OAD Pulleys

Sorry to take so long to write this up. Got super busy and barely had time to swap out the bad OAD pulley, so no pictures either, but I did modify the factory gif as some visual help.

Anyway, My OAD pulley was going bad. Made all sorts of bad sounding noises, sometimes like a bad valve tap, or a growling type noise and even whining. There are all sorts of you tube videos for the noises, but a quick test for the noise is to simply take the belt off and run the engine. If that nasty sound went away, you may need an OAD pulley. See this thread for additional info and videos: Its not always the CVT but a $50 part

Also, after replacing mine, I noticed my voltage reading on my scangauge II fluctuates...alot. Before it stayed pretty steady around 14.1 volts. Now it can run anywhere from 13.5 to 14.2 depending on whether the OAD is overunning (13.5 volts) or not. This is actually a really good way to see if the pulley is going bad. If I start revving the engine, I'll see the voltage jump to 14+ volts, then if I let off the gas, the pulley overruns and the voltage drops below 13.8. When mine was going bad, it was starting to lock up, therefore rarely, if ever, overran. So my voltage always stayed above 14 volts.

To replace the OAD pulley, you have to remove the alternator, and Jeep really kind of buried it on our rides. Going by the factory procedure, it is really hard to remove from a very tight spot and you fear of breaking an A/C line doing it. Here is the factory procedure, then I'll post an additional and changed step that makes removal way easier.

Quote:
FACTORY REMOVAL METHOD
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable at battery.
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Remove the underbody air dam.
4. Remove the accessory drive splash shield.
4a. They fail to mention removing the belt. Use a 16mm or 5/8 wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt to remove tension from the belt enough to slip the belt off the idler pulley (the one in the next step).



5. Remove the accessory drive idler pulley.



6. Loosen the lower mounting bolt.



7. Loosen the A/C compressor and relocate, pull down and to outboard side of vehicle to make room to remove generator.



8. Unplug field circuit from generator.



9. Remove the B+ terminal nut and wire.



10. Remove the upper mounting bolt.



11. Remove the generator lower mounting bolt.



12. Relocate the battery terminal (1) to the other side of the A/C line (2) for removal of the generator.



13. Rotate generator pulley down.



14. Slide generator down and out of vehicle.
This really does not work. The Alternator really just won't fit out of the opening they suggest you use. Not without removing the inner fender liner and as someone else mentioned, unbolting the bracket for the A/C accumulator bracket so that the AC compressor and lines can move more.

In my next post I'll explain the removal better and change some steps to make it almost easy.

-Todd
08 Sport 4x4 FDI Silver, CRD Stu's Coil Springs, Mud Flaps, Weathertech vent shades, TAG Rear Bumper
Carr Lightwing, Pilot Navigator Driving Lights, K&N Air Filter and a jp.com decal

Quote:
"Nothing is either good or bad, but thinking makes it so."
- William Shakespeare

"I swear to drunk I'm not God!"
- Anonymous

Last edited by todde702; 05-09-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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So here's how I did it. I should mention I don't know how the FDII models oil cooler may affect this procedure.

Quote:
EASIER REMOVAL METHOD
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable at battery.
2. Remove the underbody air dam or skid plate
2a. On FDI models there are 6 10mm bolts and four plastic reusable pop rivets, 2 in each wheel well, use a screwdriver to pry the center part of the rivet out.
2b. On FDII models there are 8 bolts to remove the metal skid plate.
3. Turn the steering wheel hard to the right. No need to remove the tire or jack up the front end. Well, at least I didn't need to. If you're having trouble getting under the front end, then by all means jack up and properly support the right front of the vehicle. You definitely won't need to jack the entire front end.
4. Remove the accessory drive splash shield. (this is removed in step 2 on FDI. FDII models have a separate shield in the wheel well from the factory metal skid plate, you only need to remove the right side one)
5. Use a 16mm or 5/8 wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt to remove tension from the belt enough to slip the belt off the idler pulley (the one in the next step).



5. Remove the accessory drive idler pulley. (16mm or 5/8 wrench)



6. Loosen the lower mounting bolt. (16mm or 5/8 will also work here). There is a welded nut on an L shaped hunk of metal on the backside of this bolt. As you loosen it, you may need to reach back and hold this.



7. Unplug the electrical connector on the AC Compressor, then remove three, long 13mm bolts on the A/C compressor and relocate, pull down and to outboard side of vehicle to make room to remove generator.



8. Remove the lower aluminium A/C Compressor Mounting bracket. Three 13 mm bolts that go straight up through the bracket and into the oil pan. No worries, there are other bolts still holding the pan tight and no oil will leak.

NOTE: In this image, I highlighted the bracket in blue, and the bolt paths in red. In the image you can only see one of the bolts holding this bracket on (center solid red line). The second bolt is on the corner of the pan and the third around the front side of the pan (they make an L shape).


9. Unplug field circuit from generator. This plug has a red "connector assurance lock" on it that must be completely removed BEFORE you can squeeze the little lock tab to remove the wire plug itself. It's a bugger to get all the way off.



10. Remove the 13mm B+ terminal nut and wire.



11. Remove the 13mm upper mounting bolt.



12. Remove the generator lower mounting bolt.



13. Start moving the generator back towards the oil filter and let it rotate so the backside is facing the ground.



14. Push the AC Compressor towards the wheel well while pulling down and slide the alternator out between the AC compressor and the oil filter.
As for the OAD pulley, you will need a 17mm allen socket and an air or electric impact gun. Stick a scratch awl into the center of the rubber cover and pop it off. Blow out all the nasty rust/mung dust underneath and give it a shot of PB Blaster (or whichever preferred spray loosening agent). Just like in the videos on youtube, a couple trigger pulls and the pulley should unscrew. Blow everything off, thread on the new pulley and zap it a few times to tighten it with the impact gun. Put the new cover/seal on.

If you don't have access to an impact gun, pop down to your neighborhood garage and ask if they'll swap it for you for $10 bucks or so.

Reverse the above steps to put it all back together. My Jeep is once again quiet. The Goodyear OAD pulley (Stamped made by Litens in Canada BTW) from Rockauto.com cost $43 and that's a hell of a lot better then $250 and up for a whole new alternator.

-Todd
08 Sport 4x4 FDI Silver, CRD Stu's Coil Springs, Mud Flaps, Weathertech vent shades, TAG Rear Bumper
Carr Lightwing, Pilot Navigator Driving Lights, K&N Air Filter and a jp.com decal

Quote:
"Nothing is either good or bad, but thinking makes it so."
- William Shakespeare

"I swear to drunk I'm not God!"
- Anonymous

Last edited by todde702; 05-12-2013 at 09:51 AM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 08:18 PM
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Oil Cooler

The Oil cooler does not change anything on the FDII but you have to add time to remove the 8 bolts holding the skid plate to even begin working in the bay
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 04:22 PM
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What is FDI vs FDII?
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 04:47 PM
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FDI is the 4x4 and the FDII is the off road, trail rated, version.

FDI= Freedom Drive One

FDII= Freedom Drive Two

You can see the difference on the Jeep web page, go here and scroll down to find the Freedom Drive descriptions:
http://www.jeep.com/en/4x4/


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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 04:47 PM
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Mods, this thread should be in the Knowledge base IMHO


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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixiedawg View Post
FDI is the 4x4 and the FDII is the off road, trail rated, version.

FDI= Freedom Drive One

FDII= Freedom Drive Two

You can see the difference on the Jeep web page, go here and scroll down to find the Freedom Drive descriptions:
http://www.jeep.com/en/4x4/
Gotcha. Mines just the 2wd automatic
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 08:19 PM
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So far so good. I'm at step 7 and trying to get those 13mm bolts out. How in the world do you do this??? Are you contortionists??? I cannot get a ratchet in there. I can barely get a wrench in there and get about 1/6 a turn each time and then have to reposition it and try again. Is there a secret here?
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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If I remember correctly, the only AC bolt that was tough was the top one. I think I used a 3/8 ratchet with a 13 mm long to start loosening it, then switched to a 13mm short socket. It's tough to hold the ratchet handle so far up there, but with a little pipe extension on the ratchet handle, it goes a lot easier.

-Todd
08 Sport 4x4 FDI Silver, CRD Stu's Coil Springs, Mud Flaps, Weathertech vent shades, TAG Rear Bumper
Carr Lightwing, Pilot Navigator Driving Lights, K&N Air Filter and a jp.com decal

Quote:
"Nothing is either good or bad, but thinking makes it so."
- William Shakespeare

"I swear to drunk I'm not God!"
- Anonymous
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todde702 View Post
If I remember correctly, the only AC bolt that was tough was the top one. I think I used a 3/8 ratchet with a 13 mm long to start loosening it, then switched to a 13mm short socket. It's tough to hold the ratchet handle so far up there, but with a little pipe extension on the ratchet handle, it goes a lot easier.
I'll give that a shot. Thanks. Was considering a thumb ratchet too. Whew always new tools with each project. Lol.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klkitchens View Post
I'll give that a shot. Thanks. Was considering a thumb ratchet too. Whew always new tools with each project. Lol.
Exactly, gives you a good reason to by some new tools with the money you're saving on labor.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 12:49 PM
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Would a closed end ratcheting wrench work?

http://youtu.be/o8YDnd1Yoyk

Most of my tools, except for a Craftsman starter set, were bought like that.


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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 01:20 PM
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Just a ballpark guess. About how much would this labor be in a shop?
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 09:03 AM
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Just wanted to say thanks. Noticed a noise and couldn't figure out what it was. Kinda thought it was the tranny... replaced the alt pulley and no more noise. The old pulley was missing a few ball bearings. This write-up made the job a lot easier than if I had to figure it all out on my own. Thanks.

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 08:35 AM
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Gos Bless todde72!

Thanks again!
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