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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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brake pad replacement only or rotors too?

So I have 68,000 miles on the jeep and it's original oem pads. They have worn well. With that said, I am getting some rattling over expansion joint type bumps and hitting brakes stops it so I am thinking the anti-rattle clips are loose or the pads are just too thin for them to stay firm properly? I did check them recently the best i could and the outboard pads looked fine but couldn't tell what the inboards look like without removing the caliper pin bolts.....


with that said, i think it's time to just replace the pads. i've had bad luck on past vehicles doing just the pads with getting warped rotors and vibes in the pedal while braking after a few 1000 miles and i figure if i am going to remove the rotors to get them turned, why not replace them. Maybe i had bad luck because i purchased "harder" pads to replace the OEM's that maybe wore easier thus nut warping the rotors?

thoughts?

can i just replace the pads without turning rotors as long as i get the "softer"/OEM type pads? Or should i just bite the bullet and replace the rotors too?


2013 patriot sport 4x4 2.4 5spd FD1 True Blue, Willy's Overland edition
215/70R16 Yoko Geo ATS on Drag 9s, a/c
front and rear wet okole seat covers, front and rear rugged ridge floor mats, cargo cover,cargo carpet, front custom cut splash guards, rear window crank rattle-delete mod.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 11:40 AM
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depends on condition of rotors
do you feel any grooves on the rotors?
i try to buy softer pads that will wear out without doing too much damage to rotors
i change the pads more often that way, but it tends to save the rotors

also check around see if theres any shops that will regrind current rotors
fewer shops do so, but a few still do, 1 shop by me charges $10/rotor to regrind if you bring them in, they wont do it for $10/rotor if they have to remove/install the rotors
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 07:23 PM
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At the other forums that I hang out on, the general consensus is that you do not have to automatically replace the rotors with each pad change. And, that turning most of todays rotors is not economically feasible....$10 -$15 to turn them vs. $25 -$45 for new ones. Many feel that today's rotors are too thin to start out with to justify turning. Of course there are exceptions.

The condition of the rotor will determine if you should replace it with the pads. You can measure the thickness to determine how much wear is still available and also measure run out if you have a gauge. Very light grooving is o.k.. So, the answer is "it depends".


Don't get all hung up on "ceramic" either. Most people relate the term ceramic to rock hard ceramic floor tiles. It isn't so. It's similar to people confusing "paraffinic" base oil stock with paraffin wax. Brake hardness and the ability to wear down the rotors is based on the entire pad formulation. Ceramic is just another type of filler in the pad makeup instead of metallic. A pad can have 2% ceramic or 40% ceramic and still be called ceramic. Many, if not most ceramic pads are less "rotor eating" than semi metallics.

Here's just one link that states "They handle heat much better than most nonasbestos organic (NAO) friction materials, and are quieter and kinder to rotors than most semi-metallic friction materials."

CERAMIC BRAKE PADS

Of course, opinions vary. I had to get over the stigma that the term "ceramic" implies. If you truly want "softer" pads, one probably has to buy the very cheap entry level pads. I have no idea how well they stop, but I certainly would not sacrifice performance and safety over saving a few bucks on brake components.

Finally, (still on my pulpit).......don't do just a quick "pad slap". Clean everything well and use good lubes. Placing a new rotor on a rusted hub might create run out, which will induce the "warping" sensation know as pulsation. Lots of other tricks to a good brake job, but I am jumping down off the pulpit before getting accused of being condescending and other things.

2014 Sport, 2wd, 2.4L, 6 speed tranny, Winter Chill
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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so i picked up some bosch quietcast rotors for front and semi-metallic pads from oreillys.


from what i have read, semi-metallics handle heat better and are easier on rotors.


i dunno.


seems like everyone has their own opinion on this.

i plan on cleaning the hubs with a wire brush and spraying with cleaner first.


any more tips for the patriot?


2013 patriot sport 4x4 2.4 5spd FD1 True Blue, Willy's Overland edition
215/70R16 Yoko Geo ATS on Drag 9s, a/c
front and rear wet okole seat covers, front and rear rugged ridge floor mats, cargo cover,cargo carpet, front custom cut splash guards, rear window crank rattle-delete mod.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 11:22 AM
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Semi metallics are typically noisier than ceramics.

I recently replaced rotors and pads on my XJ. My personal preference is to replace the rotors with new pads whether they need it or not. There not that expensive.

Here's the pads i used. They have little more stopping power than OEMs and are quiet.


2014 Patriot Latitude 4X4 | 2000 Jeep XJ | 2016 Ford F150 XLT | 2005 Dodge Neon
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:01 AM
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Those EHT pads get good reviews and they have sparked my interest.


Quote:
any more tips for the patriot?
Because I live in the rust belt with copious road salt, I put a paper thin layer of moly paste (Honda/Molykote M77,Goodson Paste Lub) on the hub, rotor hat, and axle nut area. Others here have posted about lubing the axle nut area to ward off rust. I also use the moly paste on the exposed metal to metal brake parts.....pad ears, etc..

Which brake pin lube to use is controversial also. Every product has lovers/haters of the myriad marketing hype.....PAO synthetic, ceramic, yada, yada, yada. The tendency that I see at Bobistheoilguy where they debate stuff ad nauseam, is that many people go back to the tried and true real silicone brake lube (3M, dow, etc.) and/or Silglyde (actually a castor oil lube). Many people report problems with synthetic products like the green Permatex (rubber swelling) and the purple ceramic (dries out). BUT......again this is extremely subjective and people's experiences are all over the place.

2014 Sport, 2wd, 2.4L, 6 speed tranny, Winter Chill
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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replaced all front hardware- rotors and pads and clips...

working all well....

went with bosch quietcast rotors and brakebest pads....

cleaned up hubs with wire brush, around studs and the whole face of hub. sprayed down with the safe brake cleaner.

they made a grinding noise at first but that's because of the coating for anti-corrosion (not an oil but like a paint) that wheres off where the pads contact... all quiet after a few miles and after bedding the pads...


3-4 cycles of up to 35mph, then slow to 5-10 then repeat up to 45 mph..


2013 patriot sport 4x4 2.4 5spd FD1 True Blue, Willy's Overland edition
215/70R16 Yoko Geo ATS on Drag 9s, a/c
front and rear wet okole seat covers, front and rear rugged ridge floor mats, cargo cover,cargo carpet, front custom cut splash guards, rear window crank rattle-delete mod.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treegrower View Post
Those EHT pads get good reviews and they have sparked my interest.

Which brake pin lube to use is controversial also. Every product has lovers/haters of the myriad marketing hype.....PAO synthetic, ceramic, yada, yada, yada. The tendency that I see at Bobistheoilguy where they debate stuff ad nauseam, BUT......again this is extremely subjective and people's experiences are all over the place.
Ha, you got that right. Some people are die hard Chevy fans while others are die hard Ford fans!
Same with brake pads i guess.

Got about 500+ miles on the EHT's so far and really liking them on my XJ.
Extremely quiet, no dust observed so far and noticeably better braking power than the OEMs i had on there.
No idea how good they would be on a Pat. But when my Pat or Neon needs pads those are the one's i'm gonna install.

2014 Patriot Latitude 4X4 | 2000 Jeep XJ | 2016 Ford F150 XLT | 2005 Dodge Neon
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