Flush Radiator / Coolant - Jeep Patriot Forums
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Question Flush Radiator / Coolant

I know, I know, this may be a stupid question but I am going to ask it because I do not know the answer.

I usually do all the maint. and repair on all my cars but I am scratching my head on this one. My 2008 Pat is ready to have the coolant removed and replaced with new. I have all the correct fluids to put back in it as required in the owners manual.

The problem is that I am having an issue finding the drain plug for the radiator. Usually they are located on the bottom of the radiator but I cannot seem to find it. I have removed the large plastic cover from the bottom of the Pat to allow me to see up in there but I cannot find the plug. Can someone give me a hand and let me know if I am just blind or exactly where it is located? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 04:43 PM
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Coolant change every 60,000 miles.....

Just swapped red Classic X , for, Green Auto SE " Spirit " 2.5 Petrol Limited edition X still 4x4,


Ex 07 Patriot CRD Sport , UK ( with lots of chrome goodies )
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011, 11:06 AM
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Tiptronic has made a very good point, the coolant should last for many miles/years without being changed or tampered with.

There should be no need to change coolant unless you have developed problems such as a leak. Maybe it is best just left alone.

You know that saying "if it aint broke dont fix it"
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011, 12:08 PM
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I think you just have to pull the lower radiator hose to drain it. I've noticed more and more OEM radiators don't have a drain plug. I guess it's a cost savings thing. My wife's GMC has the drain plug bung, but it has a plastic plug glued into it, flush, no handles or anything.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011, 12:15 PM
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There is a drain plug, I used it to drain the rad for installing the oil cooler kit. It is on the far passenger side of the rad (left side), and not readily accessible. I removed the bumper cover in order to access it. Maybe it can be done without removing the bumper cover, but it is really not difficult to remove, and after that emptying the rad is a breeze...
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 08:03 PM
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There is a drain plug, I used it to drain the rad for installing the oil cooler kit. It is on the far passenger side of the rad (left side), and not hid headlights readily accessible. I removed the bumper cover in order to access it. Maybe it can be done without removing the bumper cover, but it is really not difficult to remove, and after that emptying the rad is a breeze...
Still a paint to have to remove that to get to it though =P
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
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Still a paint to have to remove that to get to it though =P
Yes, but removing the bumper cover is not that difficult, and maybe there is a way to do it without removing the bumper cover, maybe someone here will know how.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 11:53 AM
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Your coolant fluid might retain it's antifreeze properties for a long time, but the anti-corrosive properties only last 2-3 years. So your coolant might not freeze, but you might end up losing the heater core or the radiator due to rust. So even if you have it tested, and it's still good to -50 F, you still might want to change it to prevent the parts in the system from rusting.


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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 07:37 PM
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Jiffy Lube person inadvertently mixed green into ours, did have to remove the entire bumper cover to access the drain plug. Total pain. Also, be careful with petcock as made of plastic.

Quarter turn, then pull out very gently.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 06:34 PM
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Do you only have to remove the portion of the cover over the bumper or do you have to remove the entire bumper grill assembly?
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-02-2012, 11:01 PM
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I removed the entire bumper. It's really not that difficult.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 12:26 AM
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OK, just finished the required five year drain and refill of the radiator. After spending hours underneath it - removed plastic "skid plate" and all lower fasteners from the bumper cover, I came to the conclusion that this is truly a stupid design.

I could get the drain plug turned through about 30 degrees, but not enough to get flow. Knowing how these Chrysler plugs love to break the guide ears off, I decided to take another tack.

Remove battery and battery tray. Remove lower hose and then radiator cap. Remove heater supply hose from back of engine block. Using air regulated to 40#, carefully blow all coolant onto your garage floor. Using rag and air pressure, blow out the remaining coolant through the radiator cap connection. Reconnect all hoses. Use turkey baster to remove all coolant from overflow tank. Refill using 50/50 mix of G05 and distilled water. While Patriot is warming up out on the garage apron, use hose to dilute/spread spilled coolant into yard. Top off coolant once the thermostat opens. While floor is drying, consume yet another cold beer. Replace Patriot in second bay of garage, install radiator cap, then bring your truck into first bay for A/C blower removal/replacement. When wife is getting into her car (3rd bay) and asks what all of the water is from, explain that the garage floor was "dirty" and "needed to be hosed off". Enjoy more beer.

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 06:35 PM
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Not a long time ago I could read in other forum that the drain plug can be accesed removing the passenger wheelhouse splash shield. In three or four month I'll try it and I'll tell you if I got it.

Have anybody tried in this way?

Regards.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 11:52 PM
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My 14 pat states i have 10 year 150,000 mile antifreeze

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 06:56 PM
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What type of coolant your pat 2014 pat use? could you look at the service manual? this is very interesting, 10 years...

2011 Pat 2.4L 4x4 Sport
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