Drivetrain hesitation and bucking - Jeep Patriot Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Drivetrain hesitation and bucking

Good evening, I have a 2014 Jeep Patriot with approx 60k miles on it. Recently the vehicle started to hesitate and buck when accelerating, when coasting and reapplying the gas and especially on hills. I took it to the dealer where it has been for the past month with no resolution. They can duplicate the problem and have done a driveability upgrade and replaced the transmission valve body. They also lubed and adjusted the transmission shift cable. The bucking incidents happen very frequently and feel like several quick studder between shifting. Long story short I'm frustrated without having no vehicle for a month, the investment of several hundred dollars in repairs and no resolution. Has anyone experienced something similar or what might be a cause of this? There are no stored codes or mil on.
Thank you
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 10:57 PM
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This may sound too simple, but many members have solved bucking/jerking/hesitating problems by changing the plugs. They are on the maint schedule to change at 30k miles.
I guess you're done that already?
Just a thought.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 11:50 PM

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griff View Post
This may sound too simple, but many members have solved bucking/jerking/hesitating problems by changing the plugs. They are on the maint schedule to change at 30k miles.
x2

That's what I'd check next, if it hasn't already been done.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:35 AM
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Plugs if required, then throttle body cleaning.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:57 AM
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i had exactly same issue from day 1. it got worse and worse then instead of the bucking it would almost shut off the come back on really fast- like a long miss.

the etc light would flash and if you weren't looking for it you would miss it. then one day it stayed on for a few minutes. then went off.

long story short, i had a bad throttle body. they replaced under my lifetime added care plus less the 100$ deductible at 54,000 miles. i still get the once in a blue moon studder and expect a new throttle body in another 50k miles.... lol....chinese junk parts...

IF yours is not covered by any warranty, it may not be at 60k miles, i recommend pulling the codes- did they pull codes at dealer?- and confirm throttle body.


if it is the throttle body and not covered, i'd buy the one from rock auto for $140 which has a lifetime warranty as i recall and the part description specifically mentions it having a revided design to eliminate the OEM failure flaw....i would NOT pay over $500 for the dealer to replace with another cheap oem part that will fail in another 50k miles. I'd buy the rock auto one.

remember, mine did the same it appears since about new and slowly got worse. so maybe yours hasn't set the code yet.....

like other said, replace plugs with OEM plugs only. check air filter. replace as needed. easy and cheap.

if it still does it, i'd bet your throttle body is going out and from what i read, you can't clean it...must replace...


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:59 AM
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More Information for DORMAN 977025

The Electronic Throttle Body Assembly frequently requires replacement due to internal electronic sensor failure and excessive wear and tear. Dorman's OE FIX solution provides a redesigned electronic board, which features a new Hall Effect Sensor for increased reliability and a longer service life. Sold as a complete unit, Dorman's Throttle Body features a butterfly valve which is electronically controlled by the Engine Control Unit to precisely open and close to regulate the fuel/air mixture. Since this part is essential to the operation of your vehicles engine, quality tests on this part include on-vehicle testing and corrosion resistance testing to ensure this part conforms to product standards for durability and performance.

Aluminum casting construction for an exact fit, performance match and corrosion resistance
Exact fit for bolt-on and plug-in installation
Direct replacement restores proper engine function
The Electronic Throttle Body Assembly maintains the correct volume of air flow into the engine


2013 patriot sport 4x4 2.4 5spd FD1 True Blue, Willy's Overland edition
215/70R16 Yoko Geo ATS on Drag 9s, a/c
front and rear wet okole seat covers, front and rear rugged ridge floor mats, cargo cover,cargo carpet, front custom cut splash guards, rear window crank rattle-delete mod.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 04:40 PM
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Terminology can be confusing here. I'll share my problem and how I solved it.

First, go for the cheap fix first. Replace the plugs. You're talking <$20 and it might be all you need.

If that doesn't do it, may I ask the condition of your tires? Mine was stuttering on hills. Not usually from a dead stop, but during acceleration after it was already moving, like getting on an entrance ramp or coming to a hill where it needed more power. It was like the whole engine quite for an RPM or two, then it would smooth out. If it was a long hill it might happen again. At the time I had inconsistent tires -- one axle had fairly new tires, the other well-worn tires, and I think they were undersized. My guess (only a guess) is that the tires moving at different speeds was confusing the computer.

Please check back when you've got things figured out.

PS, at 230,000 miles I'm still on my original throttle body so if I were you, I'd be reluctant to spend that kind of money on speculation. I don't burn anything special for fuel; always regular, usually Irving or whatever Cumberland Farms is selling (Citgo I think).
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignatz View Post
Terminology can be confusing here. I'll share my problem and how I solved it.

First, go for the cheap fix first. Replace the plugs. You're talking <$20 and it might be all you need.

If that doesn't do it, may I ask the condition of your tires? Mine was stuttering on hills. Not usually from a dead stop, but during acceleration after it was already moving, like getting on an entrance ramp or coming to a hill where it needed more power. It was like the whole engine quite for an RPM or two, then it would smooth out. If it was a long hill it might happen again. At the time I had inconsistent tires -- one axle had fairly new tires, the other well-worn tires, and I think they were undersized. My guess (only a guess) is that the tires moving at different speeds was confusing the computer.

Please check back when you've got things figured out.

PS, at 230,000 miles I'm still on my original throttle body so if I were you, I'd be reluctant to spend that kind of money on speculation. I don't burn anything special for fuel; always regular, usually Irving or whatever Cumberland Farms is selling (Citgo I think).


I actually saw this posters thread when i was having the issue at first. coincidentally, my issue started the very next time i drove my jeep after i rotated tires. So i thought the above was the cause. In my case, replacing the throttle body resolved things.

unless replacing the throttle body leads to another process that resets something associated with tires being out if spec to one another. i don't know. i just know after throttle body it hasn't happened again....and i have rotated the same tires a time or 2 since..


2013 patriot sport 4x4 2.4 5spd FD1 True Blue, Willy's Overland edition
215/70R16 Yoko Geo ATS on Drag 9s, a/c
front and rear wet okole seat covers, front and rear rugged ridge floor mats, cargo cover,cargo carpet, front custom cut splash guards, rear window crank rattle-delete mod.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 10:22 AM
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Throttle bodies can be cleaned, done mine twice.

There's two prevalent failure modes on a TB. Carbon build-up and stepper motor failure.

Carbon build-up on the throttle bore causes the throttle blade to stick, giving noticeable throttle response issues like jerking and bucking since the stepper motor cannot smoothly overcome the resistance of the blade interference. Enough build-up can cause stepper motor failure as well as it has to work harder.

Stepper motor failure or impending failure will also cause ETC and driveablity issues albeit at significantly more cost since this requires the replacement of the complete TB assembly.

There can also be electrical causes found in the wiring harness, ground points and relay/fuse boxes.

If one has the DIY ability, the cheaper option should be explored first. I would use the new CRC intake valve cleaner instead of TB cleaner. It has the better formula to dissolve the carbon more effectively and the procedure can be done from topside of the engine compartment. If there is no change in driveability then further troubleshooting will be required.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 08:36 PM
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Over several decades, I have had several engine problems with symptoms similar to the OP with no codes thrown. In all cases, it took a very experienced mechanic with a "scope type" diagnostic scanner to diagnose the problem. In one case, I had a bad plug wire that was mis-firing intermittently. Another time it was a bad throttle speed sensor that sent bad signals to the tranny, causing symptoms like it was "slipping". No codes were ever thrown.

Ask your dealer if they have tried any testing (scope) beyond a regular code scanner.

Here's an example of a scope type diagnostic tool: skip ahead to see it in action.
YouTube (Short URL)
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2014 Sport, 2wd, 2.4L, 6 speed tranny, Winter Chill

Last edited by Treegrower; 12-29-2016 at 08:58 PM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your responses. I changed the plugs and after road testing the problem has totally resolved. The plugs didn't actually look that bad but a definite difference and total resolution of the problem. I'm happy that this is resolved but pretty frustrated that after 2.5 weeks in the dealership and $400 in repair bills that the dealer couldn't have resolved this in the 15 minutes and $20 that I invested in my driveway. Thank you all again... this was very helpful
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdobrowolski86@gmail.com View Post
Thank you all for your responses. I changed the plugs and after road testing the problem has totally resolved. The plugs didn't actually look that bad but a definite difference and total resolution of the problem. I'm happy that this is resolved but pretty frustrated that after 2.5 weeks in the dealership and $400 in repair bills that the dealer couldn't have resolved this in the 15 minutes and $20 that I invested in my driveway. Thank you all again... this was very helpful
Maddening, isn't it? As the proverb says, "If you hear hoof-beats its probably horses and not zebras."
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 01:33 PM
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i have a 2012 with CVT with 80K+ miles and this happens when i either gas it to pick up speed on highway or up hill at or just under 2500rpm. thought maybe misfire but no codes. i hope it is just the spark plugs and then i ll just have to apologize to my CVT for bad mouthing so much.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mightybeet View Post
i have a 2012 with CVT with 80K+ miles and this happens when i either gas it to pick up speed on highway or up hill at or just under 2500rpm. thought maybe misfire but no codes. i hope it is just the spark plugs and then i ll just have to apologize to my CVT for bad mouthing so much.
Its not your tranny. If it was slipping it would have died almost immediately.

Plugs are the cheapest possible route. Start there.

If that doesn't do it, what are your tires like? I've posted a couple times about having a problem similar to yours and concluded it was due to different tires on different axles. In my case it was nice new ones on front and really worn undersized on the rear. I think the different tire sizes turning at different speeds confused the computer, especially when its being asked to make a change, like starting to climb a hill. Like you, my problem was between 2000 and 3000 rpms, and it wasn't heavy acceleration that did it, just a little stronger than usual -- like you say a hill when the CVT makes a change in ratio, or leaving the toll gate and going from 30 to 60 mph.

So if your rubber is junk, that might be your problem. If your tires are consistently good and not odd-sized maybe your computer is getting bad data. GIGO.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 01:08 PM
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it was the spark plugs. replaced all 4 and no issue. be nice if CEL came up. its like they want you to bring it into the shop. who ever did the spark plugs prior to me purchasing had a little too much fun with the dielectric grease. had dig some out of the coil with a screw driver.
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