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post #16 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-14-2015, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Radiators out that thing was beat up. huge chunks of fins where missing. Was attempting to take off my belt and fan clutch for the remainder of the day.

For the belt.... I was taking off bolts instead of loosing them still confused on how the whole thing works. Not much info on how to remove it when you don't have a tensioner bolt. This video explained it pretty well so I will be following it tomorrow when I try again tomorrow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjLs0ny8m58

As for the fan clutch this was a major PITA I broke 2 of the bolts free but the other 2 just don't want to budge. I cant seem to keep the pulley still so I can break them loose. Not much info on that either on youtube .

Was hoping to get this all done by the weekend so I can drive it but does not look like that is happening atm.
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post #17 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aroundincircles View Post
Oh, didn't see it, Then you should be good.

I got a 3.5" lift, but it netted me 4.5" in the rear, and had driveline vibrations pretty bad.
Might need to adjust the pinion angle on the rear diff, they make shim kits so you can test it, and then cut and reweld the brackets.
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post #18 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 05:54 PM
 
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I recommend that you buy this by the caseload.

http://goo.gl/j9Esyu

3-4 days before you start any project on your jeep spray every nut and bolt you can find, and then do it the day before, and then do it a few minutes before you start. It will save your time and tools.

2012 FDII Patriot - Sold
1989 Cherokee Pioneer - 3.5" MC lift
http://aicproductionblog.com/support-this-page/
http://www.youtube.com/c/aicoffroadvideo
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post #19 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 06:16 PM
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AIC, I keep a few cans of that on me when I'm at work! It works wonders! Also, Kroil works really well too! I was able to free more frozen parts using Kroil in my adventures!

http://www.kanolabs.com/
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post #20 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ive been using wd-40 rust grade.

Got the water pump in but forgot to put on the inlet hose.... then realized I didnt have on it appears the PO tried to make one himself.

.


Needless to say Ill be running to napa tomarrow to grab a new gasket and inlet hose.... ugh.

Also changed the 195* temp stat no issues with that luckly.
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post #21 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 10:02 PM
 
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that sucks, at least it is a learning experience right?

2012 FDII Patriot - Sold
1989 Cherokee Pioneer - 3.5" MC lift
http://aicproductionblog.com/support-this-page/
http://www.youtube.com/c/aicoffroadvideo
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post #22 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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The whole system is in!

Some problems though. First is I am leaking at the temp stat so have to redo that. Leaking stopped after a bit though. Also I had coolant pouring out the rad when I was bleeding the system is that normal?

Also temp hit 210 on the gauge could be off don't have an IR to check. Hoses where HOT but never felt coolant go through them (may have missed when it did)


Gonna let it cool off top off the coolant and put the cap on and see what happens this time.
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post #23 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 03:31 PM
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but when you're bleeding the system of air, the only real way to get all the air out of the system is by allowing it to circulate, which means the thermostat has to open up. This will allow the water pump to flow the liquid through the system, allowing for the cooling. With the radiator cap off while the thermostat is open, water will come out of the top, mainly because you're dealing with pressurized coolant finding an open space.
The way I flush/fill coolant is I fill up the empty radiator with my 50/50 mix until I hit the top. Periodically, I will squeeze the upper radiator hose and "burp" the system to help get out some of the air. When I can no longer get any air out of the system that way, I then start the car with the radiator cap off and turn the heater on full blast. I will watch the level of the coolant at the top of the radiator cap and wait until the coolant level recedes. It will take a bit for the car to get up to temperature, but when it does, you will know it. If there are any air pockets left, the circulation of the system will find them and push them out of the radiator cap opening. If the level of the coolant sinks, put more coolant in there.
I've never had a problem doing it this way. I've been successful 100% of the time using this method, and I've used it on anything from small cars to Peterbilt big rigs. There are other ways to do it, but it's like shaving: everyone has a preferred method.
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post #24 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but when you're bleeding the system of air, the only real way to get all the air out of the system is by allowing it to circulate, which means the thermostat has to open up. This will allow the water pump to flow the liquid through the system, allowing for the cooling. With the radiator cap off while the thermostat is open, water will come out of the top, mainly because you're dealing with pressurized coolant finding an open space.
The way I flush/fill coolant is I fill up the empty radiator with my 50/50 mix until I hit the top. Periodically, I will squeeze the upper radiator hose and "burp" the system to help get out some of the air. When I can no longer get any air out of the system that way, I then start the car with the radiator cap off and turn the heater on full blast. I will watch the level of the coolant at the top of the radiator cap and wait until the coolant level recedes. It will take a bit for the car to get up to temperature, but when it does, you will know it. If there are any air pockets left, the circulation of the system will find them and push them out of the radiator cap opening. If the level of the coolant sinks, put more coolant in there.
I've never had a problem doing it this way. I've been successful 100% of the time using this method, and I've used it on anything from small cars to Peterbilt big rigs. There are other ways to do it, but it's like shaving: everyone has a preferred method.
Gonna try this after it cools back down. Wouldnt the Tstat open at 210* though? or maybe my temp gauge is off idk.
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post #25 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I get what you meant about burping the system I squeezed the tubes. Definitely felt the coolant this time. When I turned it off and pulled the cap / turned it back on later coolant shot out with a bulrbp noise so guessing that got the air out. Running @ 220* in my driveway now witch seems high to me.

Didnt replace fan clutch and checked it, it is running at full speed.

Leaking trans fluid when running not sure where yet since its a liquid mess under the jeep. Looks to be the drivers side I am gonna check it out during the week after everything dries. Also dripping a little on top of the water pump. Cant tell if its the Tstat or waterpump. Also gonna check that out sometime soon I'm done tinkering until the end of the week. Gonna grab another bottle of coolant too need to top it off after all the spewing. Should I put some in the reservoir also?

Last edited by chrispl57; 05-16-2015 at 05:22 PM.
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post #26 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 05:40 PM
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Temp gauge shouldn't really go above 212F... At least that's when my overtemp light comes on..
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post #27 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cherokees seem to run a little higher I am hearing 210 is normal & my gauge hovers around 210-220. Gonna drive it around once I get the trans fluid leak fixed (I think there is a loose hose on the rad) and the valve cover gasket is replaced. To see what the running temp sits at. If it is still high (240 for driving temp) then I will just go in and replace the fan clutch (If I can get the damn thing off that's why its still on in the first place.


Also heard the gauges on these things are usually off so I am gonna pick up an IR gun to see what its at.

Last edited by chrispl57; 05-16-2015 at 07:46 PM.
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post #28 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 07:52 PM
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Okay, to answer your question about the coolant, the cooling system is a pressurized system. It is pressurized by 2 things: 1. the water pump... and 2. the temperature. As the coolant heats up to a boiling point of 212*F, the water will expand into vapor. If the water/coolant cannot expand, the coolant can run at a higher temperature without boiling. If you have air in your system, the coolant can expand when up to those temperatures, because gas can be compressed, as liquid cannot. If your temp gauge is reading 220* with a 195* Tstat, you more than likely have air in your system. The coolant shooting out in your post #25, that is because the Tstat was open when you cranked the Cherokee back up. The Tstat will still open at the time, and the circulation allowed for the air bubbles to evacuate to the area of least resistance, I.E. the open radiator.
What temp Tstat are you running? I wouldn't worry about overheating until you have a constant temp of over 220* for anything over 5 minutes.
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post #29 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 07:57 PM
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Fluid in the reservoir...always. While you're evacuating the air, I keep the reserve tank at at least half. After you are satisfied that you have evacuated the air, you can turn off the heater and drive it around for 15-20 minutes. When you return and the temps have looked good, pop the hood and then see what the reservoir level is. If nothing has changed, fill it to the "Full-Hot" level and you should be able to call it a day. If the fluid is gone, add more fluid, let her sit about 20 minutes and then carefully pop the radiator cap again. Check the level inside the radiator and fill if needed.
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post #30 of 268 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 07:59 PM
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As far as the fan clutch goes, is it a matter of frozen parts, or having trouble trying to figure out how to remove the thing? If it is the latter, can you post a few pictures of what you're dealing with??? I've pulled plenty of those...
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